Dry Chanel Leather

Hello Roger, I have bought your Kit-A3 - Aniline Leather Care Kit, but I don't know how to use it. Can you maybe give me some guidelines on what product to use first and how to use it, and how to use the different tools, for example the 2000 grit sandpaper. It is not so clear on the pictures, but the leather is dry and a little matte. It also has some creasing at the bottom. I am looking to get it looking hydrated, without creasing and shiny again. What do I do?

Thanks in advance.

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By the way, it doesn't look so bad in pictures. But it is worse in real life and natural lightning.

>>> Hello Roger, I have bought your Kit-A3 - Aniline Leather Care Kit, but I don't know how to use it.
I have check your order and note that you bought Kit-A6.tc instead.


>>> Can you maybe give me some guidelines on what product to use first and how to use it,

You follow the sequence accordingly, wet process begins with Degreaser-2.2 and ends with Fatliquor-5.0. Dry process begins with Eraser-4 > AnilineTop-21G/76G > Protector-B/B+.

Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Rinse-3.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 >>> Eraser-4 > AnilineTop-21G/76G > Protector-B/B+.


>>> and how to use the different tools, for example the 2000 grit sandpaper.

Sand200 is an option to be used in-between AnilineTop-21G/76G only to smooth out poor application. Do not use direct on leather without finishes, use Eraser-4 instead on direct leather without finishes. Horsehair Brush-1 and Eraser-4 are used both during wet and dry process where necessary. FoamBrush-3 is for products applications. Towel-5 has various usages for product application, cleaning and hydrating purposes (use a cotton terry towel for wet soil extraction). Test these tools out on a piece of leather scrape to understand how they response prior to direct usage.


>>> It is not so clear on the pictures, but the leather is dry

Diminishes original fatliquor (fat and oil) from average 14% is one possible reason for appearance dryness and after Fatliquor-5.0 appearances will improve. Another contributing factor is from Protector-B/B+ and after application will improve appearance.


>>> and a little matte.

Matte is 2 level luster lower then from gloss and satin. AnilineTop-21G/76G will produce a gloss finish. Another option for high gloss if so desired is with HighGloss-V3 that will achieve a patent finish.


>>> It also has some creasing at the bottom.

Creasing is work out with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 after Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Rinse-3.0


This is a copy and paste from:
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-a6-...finishing-kit/
for your convenience.

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Leather Doctor® Kit A6.tc, aniline leather topcoat refinishing kit is designed for topcoat repairs from friction wear, accidental scratch, scuff and abrasion to deteriorating greasy sweat stains. These topcoat damages are identified as white, dull or darkening stain from bare body contacts. Accidental whitish damages in most cases are free of soiling and direct AnilineTop-21G (AnilineTop-76G is a heavy duty option) application with in between dry sanding rectifies most damages. Repairs to topcoat from daily wears that dulls will require a degreasing to remove penetrated rub-in soiling prior to topcoat application in a sequence process including Degreaser-2.2 follows with Rinse-3.0; Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0 prior to topcoat application. In a greasy and sweaty topcoat damaged areas especially to the headrest and armrest, a deep degreasing is essential follows with Acidifier-2.0 to stabilize the hydrogen bonding between the protein fibers with the other leather constituent like the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. This deep degreasing process is assisted by leather Eraser-4 in both the wet and dry cleaning process to remove soiling particulates off the leather surface. Hydrator-3.3 helps in the colloidal water movement bringing suspended soiling particulates to resurface through a dwelling and wicking process. Fat and oil is replenished by Fatliquor-5.0 in an emulsion form to penetrate into the leather structure. Once the fat and oil is hydrogen bond with the protein fiber, the water content breaks free leaving a breathing space for natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness preventing the leather structure from collapsing during compressing and flexing while the oil lubricates the fiber from sliding smoothly over one another like millions of connecting hinges. Protector-B impart a non-stick, rub-resistant surface with a buttery feel helps reduce friction wear to the topcoat and extended a high level of appearance for a longer period of time. When the leather is contaminated with foreign soiling, it is essential to look at topcoat refinishing in a holistic approach. Note that the cleaning and rejuvenating products suffix denotes its pH value in this leather-safe aniline leathers topcoat refinishing system.

Topcoat Refinishing Instruction:

Leather Doctor Kit-A6.tc Wet Process is a continuous system that includes the working sequence of Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Rinse-3.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0. The leather is at a continuous wet stage of about 25% total moisture measured with a moisture meter or wipe with a cotton terry towel until it is dry through the product applications. It is then left to slow natural dry and when almost dry a little stretching to dry produces the softest leather, in terms of suppleness and strength. Dry Process begins with Eraser-4 to removes wick-up surface residues. AnilineTop-76G is applied with foam brush, varnishing brushes, padding or by airbrushing. Recommend that a little practice on a piece of leather scrap to familiar with characteristic prior to actual application. Sand2000 may be an option to use in-between coatings. Sanding on the leather crust alone is not recommended. Protector-B/B+ is the end of the Dry Process.

Degreasing:
Removing of surface and penetrated grease is essential for a good bonding topcoat, just like any other refinishing work base on the same principle. However, amphoteric protein leather material is especially pH sensitive, leather pH value of 3 to 5 should be maintain at all time during the degreasing process. Otherwise, high pH value bleeds the dyestuff and displaced it with blotchiness. High pH or alkalinity degreaser denatures the leather when the tanning agents leaches out result in tackiness and in worst case sliminess. All degreasing process will also dries up the original fatliquor to a degree and high pH value does more harm in drying up the leather. When degreasing existing cracks or dried leathers of fatliquor contents below 7% (read with a leather moisture meter), it is recommended that hydrating it with Hydrator-3.3 prior to Fatliquor-5.0 first to top-up the fatliquor content up to the original 14% prior to degreasing. This pre leather rejuvenating helps prevent over drying of the leather during the degreasing process that may accentuates or magnifies existing cracks. Degreaser-2.2 is a dual-purpose formulation with a pH value of 2.2 to safely degreasing the leather surface and penetrated soiling, while charging the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) below its iso electric-point or pH neutral or pI for an increase hydrogen bonding with the other ionic negative (-ve) leather constituents like the tanning agents, dyestuff and fatliquor.
Instruction . . . 1- Apply Degreaser-2.2 after shaking it well, saturating sufficiently where apparent body contact soiling is evident and feather out to less body contact soiling areas. 2- Leather Eraser-4 is used for better traction without the risk of scratching the finishes. 3- Horsehair Brush-1 is used for stitching rows, welting, groves, creases and wrinkles, 4- Emulsified and suspended soiling is extracted with a dry cotton terry towel until it shows clean.

pH-Balancing:
Dye bleeding and or tackiness during the wet cleaning process manifested from unknown previous cleaning will need further pH-balancing with Acidifier-2.0. With a pH-2.0 treatment the amphoteric leather protein fiber will increase its ionic positive (+ve) charge in relation with the other ionic negative (-ve) leather constituents, restoring its pH chemistry integrity.
Instruction . . . 1- Apply Acidifier-2.0, let dwell and before it dries towel extracted. 2- Towel is check for sign of bleeding and surface check for tackiness. 3- Advanced treatment is allowed for a longer dwell with control plastic covering and inspect for satisfaction thereafter.

Rinsing:
Rinsing ensures a residue free surface. Instruction . . . 1- Apply Rinse-3.0 agitates with Eraser-4 and Brush-1 and terry towel extract until towel shows clean.
Hydrating: Hydrating is introducing leather-safe surface-active agent to penetrate, relax and separate stick together fibers from locking up shrunk, creases and wrinkles stiffness. The leather may be dwell up to 72hrs while seal with plastic cling wrapper to control evaporation until the leather is plumped or limped or softened to be stretch or manipulated crosswise to satisfaction.
Instruction . . . 1- Apply Hydrator-3.3 for an even appearance and fully saturated to relax out the leather structure to satisfaction. 2- When leather is almost dry or about 25% total moisture content Fatliquor-5.0 replenishing commences.

Fatliquoring:
Fatliquoring is the process of replenishing original fatliquor content up to its formal tannery standard of 14% when dry. The fat and oil encased water molecule when ionic attracted by the protein leather fiber breaks free and evaporates leaving a breathing space for natural leather transpiration to take place for seating comfort. The fat plumps the leather for fullness when dry and the oil lubricates the millions of interconnecting like hinges for suppleness without cracking when the leather is flexed from used.
Instruction . . . 1- Apply Fatliquor-5.0 and spread for an even appearance until fully saturated. 2- Before the leather is completely dry or about 25% moisture level more is applied until saturated again. 3- When dry to normal used the leather moisture content may be read with a leather moisture meter or an equivalent wood moisture meter to about 14%.

Fatliquor-Free Surfacing:
Surface Fatliquor-5.0 residue if any is removed with Hydrator-3.3 driving all surface residues below surface. Remember that Fatliquor-5.0 is a structural conditioner and not suppose to remain on the surface. Instruction . . . 1- Surface is sprayed with Hydrator-3.3 and work with horsehair Brush-1 until cloudy moisture if any turns clear.

Topcoating:
AnilineTop-21/76G is a waterbased polyurethane topcoat that is lightfast and non-yellowing. It has excellent flow and levelling properties, recoatable and forms a flexible film coat that gives good performing results from friction wear. Instruction . . . 1- Application is either with foamBrush-3, Towel-5 or fine airbrushing to produce professional results. 2- Streaking or drippings if any is immediately corrected with a lint-free towel like Towel-5. 3- Sanding with a 2000grit in between coats improves the feel and touch of the finishes. 4- Gloss builds up with additional coatings.

Protection:
Protector-B is a non-film forming, non-stick scentless (optional Protector-B+ for a classic leather scent) protector that enhances a natural buttery-feel. It imparts a non-stick breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling. Its natural buttery-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch, scuff and abrasion. Instruction . . . 1- Shake well, mist spray and spread evenly with a foam brush. Leather is ready for use when dry.

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Roger Koh
Leather, Skin & Hair Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Online-Life-Coaching
online store: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

Hi again and thanks for the answer. I have wrapped the bag with plastic with the hydrator 3.3 so it can soak in, and will do the same with the fatliquor. Is this right? :)
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and do i have to warm-up the fatliquor and how? :-)

>>> I have wrapped the bag with plastic with the hydrator 3.3 so it can soak in, and will do the same with the fatliquor. Is this right?

Here is the instruction that is copy and paste from the above post:

Instruction . . .
1- Apply Fatliquor-5.0 and spread for an even appearance until fully saturated.
2- Before the leather is completely dry or about 25% moisture level more is applied until saturated again.
3- When dry to normal used the leather moisture content may be read with a leather moisture meter or an equivalent wood moisture meter to about 14%.

Instruction does not mentioned to "wrapped the bag with plastic".
Reason:
All water content from the Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 has to eventually evaporates only leaving the fat and oil content that only benefits the leather when dry.


>>> and do i have to warm-up the fatliquor

A warmer 20 to 50 C fatliquor increases penetration and evaporation of the spend water content.


>>> and how?

Warm it up from a bowl of running hat tap water, suffice.

The bag looks a lot better now! However there's still creasing at the bottom. What do you suggest I should do? I'm still at the wet fat liquor stage.

Show some picture of your work in progress to commend from . . .

Its not clear in the pictures at all, but it still has a little texture. do you suggest to massage it while the hydrator is on or while the fat liquor? or maybe massage it while both is on? :)

and was I supposed to rub the fat liquor in with my finger?

>>> Its not clear in the pictures at all, but it still has a little texture.

Pictures will allow me to custom the tips for you - otherwise they are general, as each issues may have its special technique.


>>> do you suggest to massage it while the hydrator is on or while the fat liquor? or maybe massage it while both is on?

You may massage it all the time to relax out the "little texture" without a picture I do not know what you are talking about as we describe it differently.

>>> and was I supposed to rub the fat liquor in with my finger?

Well, warm fingers give extra comfort to the “lamb” and warms up the fatliquor at the same time.
Fatliquor is the lifeblood of leather and warms blood flows better in circulation within the leather structure.
The spend water contents is also happier to resurface at a faster rate and breaks free as evaporation back to nature everlasting life cycle.

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I'm not sure if is is clear but the leather has gotten a pebbled look. It also happened with my Chanel o case. I have sent you the pictures on email. What can I do to get a smooth finish. I have bought more hydrator and fat liquor because I figured I needed it to make the leather look smooth again. I have run out of them both. I only sprayed it on my bag, and didn't massage it in which is why I think I haven't gotten the full potential out of the product. In case i do not need the products to make the leather appear smooth and without any texture, will you be able to cancel my order?

>>> I'm not sure if is is clear but the leather has gotten a pebbled look. It also happened with my Chanel o case. I have sent you the pictures on email.
You should visit your nearest Chanel boutique to make a comparison.


>>> What can I do to get a smooth finish.

Patent finishes has a smooth finish as compared with natural lamb.



>>> I have bought more hydrator and fat liquor because I figured I needed it to make the leather look smooth again.

Smooth or plump in fullness is equally as good in my opinion.


>>> I have run out of them both. I only sprayed it on my bag, and didn't massage it in which is why I think I haven't gotten the full potential out of the product. In case i do not need the products to make the leather appear smooth and without any texture, will you be able to cancel my order?

As long it is not ship out, we can cancel your order. Will need your confirmation.

I am comparing the side on the untreated chanel leather on my o case and it is smoother (doesn't have the pebbled look). Isn't there anything I can do to turn it back?

>>> I am comparing the side on the untreated chanel leather on my o case and it is smoother (doesn't have the pebbled look).

Please show us pictures of comparison . . .

>>> Do you suggest to start all over again, starting with the degreaser

If you have scrutinize presents of body oil, grease and sweat that have resurface, you may Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Rinse-3.0 >>> Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 all over again.


>>> or do I just put some hydrator on the bag again and use fatliqour after?

When you want extra strength and suppleness you may continue with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 all over again.


Please show pictures for reference . . .