2 & 3-seater Nubuck Chesterfield, 15 years needs some restoration for sure!

I have just inherited a 2 & 3-seater Nubuck Chesterfield, about 15 years old I believe ... needs some restoration for sure!

But I think it could come up beautifully.

Color - it's a really hard color to get a handle on, I took photos of the underside of the seats to see what it used to be.

I'd love for it to be a beige/neutral color... but I think I might be better off going a touch darker, more like tan.

What do you recommend?

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I guess we need to clean it up first, then see how it scrubs up and apply some colour and protective finish ... I'm not too fussed which type of finish we use, I just want it to look nice and be practical and useful. Do I just go for the "Nubuck Care Kit N3" to start with?

Roger also mentioned it might not be nubuck ... the guy who gave it to me is pretty convinced it was sold to him as "nubuck" but who knows. No manufacturers labels anywhere. Does it make much difference exactly what it is at this stage ... do we just clean it up and see how it goes? Let me know if I should supply any further pictures or closeups.

I'm the OP, registered on the forum now :-)

>>> Color - it's a really hard color to get a handle on, I took photos of the underside of the seats to see what it used to be. I'd love for it to be a beige/neutral color... What do you recommend?

The time to decide the color appearance is better after all stains are removed.

The darkest remaining stain then becomes the lightest color you can go with to camouflage it.

Since the original is aniline, redying with the same color type retains the value of the leather whereas if restored with a pigment simply downgrades its value.

Comparing the two different color types, aniline is transparent while pigment color is just like paint, opaque.

To achieve a lighter color range using aniline dye will require higher skill and using even a small airbrush like Paasche Airbrush will produce a professional result.

Color intensity is built with layers, and 'what you see is not what you get' until you are there with layers.

A good understanding would be a test out with watercolor on cardboard of your desired color shade if you are talking about beige/neutral color.

Anyway from your picture the beige/neutral color is not possible with your existing color.

After degreasing, pH balancing, hydrating, and fatliquoring, the faded color will be intensified more than the present faded appearance.

Unknown spots and stains have to be identified after degreasing and removed accordingly then you determine the darkest spot would be the reasonable color to go with to camouflage them.

>>> but I think I might be better off going a touch darker, more like tan.
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Antique-Brown is a mixture of Dark-Brown, Red-Brown and Yellow.

From the color shade above it has the ability to stretch from right to left by the number of layers is applied.

The second row shows the color concentration has been reduced with a 'Clear' and can further stretched by layers too.

Since the color is transparent we can see the overlapping darker tone, which gives us extra creavity to create a textured 'salvage' appearance using hand technique.

To produce an even appearance would require even a small 'Paasche Airbrush' to produce a professional result.

Let me know what you think about the color decision.

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Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected],
email: [email protected]
phone: 604 773 1878

>>> I guess we need to clean it up first, then see how it scrubs up and apply some color and protective finish ... I'm not too fussed about which type of finish we use, I just want it to look nice and be practical and useful. Do I just go for the "Nubuck Care Kit N3" to start with?

The Prep 4.4 from Nubuck Care Kit N3 will be an add-on, other than a specialty product for unknown stains after Prep-4.4 fails to remove them.

It would be good if you could group all the stains you can find and know beforehand if Prep 4.4 can remove them.

If you decided to color refinish then Aniline Leather Redyeing Kit A7.cl would be a better pick.
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https://leatherdoctor.com/aniline-le...ing-kit-a7-cl/


>>> Roger also mentioned it might not be Nubuck... the guy who gave it to me is pretty convinced it was sold to him as "nubuck" but who knows. No manufacturer labels anywhere. Does it make much difference exactly what it is at this stage ... do we just clean it up and see how it goes? Let me know if I should supply any further pictures or closeups.

It is more challenging to refinish in Nubuck than in Aniline.

The pros are nubuck has a more luxurious texture compared to a smooth aniline surface.

The cons are using transparent 'staining' dye may not produce a consistent appearance due to surface soiling or staining contamination.

The skill level is higher and will require airbrushing to achieve a constant intensity.

The even appearance will need to be fixed with an acidifier and rinse off, what ever remains becomes the color.

You may end up with surprises as you also need to recreate the nap to produce a 'finger writing effect'.

Well, now you may know why 'nubuck' is more expensive than smooth aniline.

If you have the will to do it with understanding why not?

If you fail with 'Nubuck' you can always redo it as a smooth aniline.

A more expensive smooth aniline is the waxed aniline, just change the topcoat and protector, and you get a higher-end waxed aniline.