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I have two chairs, I believe they are aniline leather; they receive quite a bit of use in our TV room. As you can see they are heavily soiled with hair and body oils. What steps do I need to take to restore these chairs? Will I need to re-dye? If so, could I send you a sample of the leather to better match the color? Thank you for your help. Great forum!
Yes from pictures, they are certainly aniline leathers.
There are two approaches to re-dyeing – drawing the existing dyestuff from within the leather structure to the surface to refresh it or applying a new dose of dyestuff into the leather surface.
I would prefer to draw dyes from within the thickness of the leather structure for reasons as follows:
1] We will never over saturate it – that is never darker than the existing color when compared to hidden areas.
2] Besides we will be rejuvenating the leather and purging all foreign contamination in the natural wicking process at the same time.
Applying a fresh coating of dyestuff has its drawback and need a higher level of technical skills for reason as follows:
1] Unlike opaque pigments color matching is precise – what you see is what you get; transparent aniline dyestuff builds its color by layers; moreover it had to start with an even clean surface; otherwise it’s difficult to balance it along the way.
3] Re-dyeing means re-staining; and all existing topcoating has to be remove; otherwise un-even absorption result in patchiness.
4] A solution to overcome the uneven absorption is to allows the dyestuff to “coats” the existing surface by adding up to 30% of adhesion promoter (Adhesor-73); again easier to work with darker colors than lighter colors – to avoid patchiness.
And if you like the new approach these are the steps:
Wet Preparation:
1] Degreaser-2.2 > Leather Eraser-4 > Horsehair Brush-1 > Rinse-3.0 > Razor60 (to remove deteriorated existing topcoating) > Towel Extraction.
Leather Rejuvenation:
1] Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0
Dry Preparation:
1] Leather Eraser-4 > Sandpaper 1200, 1500 grit > Dry towel.
Top Coating:
1] Topcoat Aniline79G (gloss)
Non-stick, rub-resistant protector
1] Leather Scent-B (buttery-feel)
You must have many questions to ask…
Roger Koh
[email protected]
Do you think you would be happy to have results like these pictures show:
#1 Before
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...erkoh/1-11.jpg
#2 During
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...erkoh/10-2.jpg
#3 After
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/15.jpg
Yes, I would be satisfied with the above example. Could we retore to a finish other than a gloss? The chairs were initially not shiny. At least not as my minds eye remembers them. I think the sample fabric which is underneath the seat cushion is representative of original patina.
So if I understand you correctly, rather than "re-dye" the chair we will under go a process that pulls existing color from within the leather to the surface? Is that correct?
Does the Top Coat Aniline 79G offer a level of protection? Once done is there a maintenance regime to prevent this from happening again?
Yes, I would be satisfied with the above example. Could we retore to a finish other than a gloss? The chairs were initially not shiny. At least not as my minds eye remembers them. I think the sample fabric which is underneath the seat cushion is representative of original patina.
You have three topcoats to choose from or inter-mixed them to get the right sheen and feel; besides the protector matches the topcoat to enhance the feel as well; the only way to determine is to try it out on the swatch that you have, thus:
Topcoat Aniline-89N
It’s a natural finish for Pure-Aniline.
This is an aqueous formulation aniline topcoat to protect aniline leathers naturally.
It improves wet rub fastness and reduces bleeding.
The matching protector is Leather Scent-S – to impart a silky-feel, non-stick protection with a classic leather scent.
Topcoat Aniline-59M
It’s a waxy-matte finish for upholstery aniline leathers.
This is an aqueous fine particular size compact resin waxy-matte topcoat.
It’s to protect aniline dyestuff with better wet rub fastness.
The matching protector is Leather Scent-W – to impart a waxy-feel, non-stick, rub-resistance protection with a classic leather scent.
Topcoat Aniline-79G
It’s a gloss finish for upholstery Aniline leathers.
This is an aqueous fine particular size urethane resin emulsion topcoat.
It’s to protect aniline dyestuff with excellent toughness and flexibility.
The matching protector is Leather Scent-B – to impart a buttery-feel, non-stick, rub-resistance protection with a classic leather scent.
So if I understand you correctly, rather than "re-dye" the chair we will undergo a process that pulls existing color from within the leather to the surface? Is that correct?
This reactivating the dyes is similar to (putting water to tea leaves); and here the water is using Hydrator-3.3 as the dyes are already in the leather structure. The thickness of the leather need to be soaked up and wrapped-up to prevent unnecessary evaporation for a day or two to activate it; thereafter when the wrapping is removed; through the natural wicking process the dyestuff moves to the surface and re-freshen it. Fatliquoring will saturate the color intensity with its fats and oils naturally. When the Hydrator-3.3 works in conjunction with the Fatliquor-5.0; not only that the thickness of the leather is relaxed from overstretching (the excess ripples from the back cushion will taut-up and disappear); the color will also freshen up. When the surface is evenly dry-prep and re-topcoated; it will give another kick-up to the beauty of depth. Sounds so unbelievable!
Does the Top Coat Aniline 79G offer a level of protection?
Among the three 79G gives the toughest protection, follow by 59M and 89N almost naked pureness with the best in breathability and leather inherent characteristics.
Once done is there a maintenance regime to prevent this from happening again?
Perspiration is the unknown culprit that will eventually wrack the leather. The ingredient is the traces of urea that when ferment from the natural bacteria found in the atmosphere turns alkaline; easily detect with the smell of ammonia. Ammonia is alkaline or base; and when the protein fiber is basified it shift anionic; that repels or break hydrogen-bond with the leather constituent especially the fatliquor – fatliquor is the life-blood of leather; and healthy leathers should have averaging 14% of it; to keep it perpetually soft, strong and supple.
Thus, the routine maintenance is simply rinsing those body contact areas with Rinse-3.0 to neutralize the possibility of perspiration contamination.
Periodic maintenance to remove oil and grease requires Cleaner-3.8 (pH 3.8) follows with Rinse-3.0 (pH 3.0).
Thereafter matching protector both for non-stick and rub-resistance is recommended to prolong the wear to the topcoating.
Leather rejuvenating may take a bigger cycle of 1 to 3 years depending on the humidity of the surrounding, near to heat source or direct sunlight or you may like to add-on once the leather is wet from cleaning. Leather when wet and dry again will feel stiffer as the fibrils becomes stick together during the wicking process - it is recommended that it should be fatliquored to prevent the fibrils to becomes stick together during the drying process. This phenomenal is known as the "Van der Waal Forces" or "London Forces".
The more you know, the more you yet to know!
Keep-on asking!
Roger Koh
[email protected]
Can you tell by the swatch in the picture which topcoat might be the closest to the original? Are there pro's and con's to each - 85N, 59M & 79G? I have a feeling we may like the 89N the best but it may be impractical for the abuse the chairs get. Maybe better to go with the 79G?
You may want to try some Macro shots with flash and without flash.
The only practical comparison is to apply onto the swatch and evaluate from there - all three of them.
You are right in your judgement; depending on your usage; if these "club" chairs are in the guest room, I will go for the 89N (close to nubuck except without the nappy finger writing effect and will be so comfortable) and with the silky-feel to match you will enjoy caressing it.
For heavy practical usage then 79G would be a better choice.
For aesthetic 89N would be perfect.
You can go only one direction - 89N > 59M > 79G.
Okay, maybe I'll try going with 89N and a regular maintenance program. It's hard to resist tactile nirvana don't you think?. If that proves to be unsatisfactory I can move up the topcoat ladder of protection.
How do I go about ordering the products I need?
It's hard to resist tactile nirvana don't you think?
This can only be achieve if its originally "Pure Aniline" also known as "naked leather"; otherwise you can pretend that it is according to your fancy or with the help of the silky-feel which also impart that unforgettable leather scent that have charm both man and woman through the centuries.
You will experience that the "scent of leather is more leathery than the leather itself" - another appeal why leather is so seductive!
You my want to trace back the leather type or quality from where you have bought it!
As to the ordering of products; email me so that I can return you with the packing size, pricing and shipping options.
Roger Koh
[email protected]
This Aniline Care Kit-A.c is the basic; you may want to replace the Scent-B (buttery-feel) to Scent-S (silky-feel) to match Topcoat 89N (natural for pure aniline).
60ml of Degreaser-2.2 will not be sufficient, it depends on how deep the body oil, grease and perspiration have penetrated, and the next size comes in 250ml.
In proportion the Rinse-3.0 have to increase to removed the suspended soiling; to save on shipping, concentrates is a better choice that can be cut with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 80; thus a 30ml concentrate makes 2.56 quarts. The remaining products are also available in concentrates so you decide from the price list.
Simple tools you may add on are:
1] Leather Eraser-4
2] Razor-60
3] Wet & dry sanding paper 1200 and 1500
4] The three 60ml topcoats in Natural, Matte or Gloss to test it out.
Air brushing set would be an ideal especially for the topcoating.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...AnilineKit.jpg
Leather Doctor® Aniline Leather Care Kit-A.c
Contents:
Degreaser-2.2 – 60ml
Prep-4.4 – 60ml
Cleaner-3.8 – 250ml
Rinse-3.0 – 250ml
Hydrator-3.3 – 250ml
Fatliquor-5.0 – 250ml
Leather Scent-B – 120ml
Leather (horsehair) Brush-1 – 1pc
3” Poly-Brush® - 1pc
Washable Rags – 5pcs
Roger Koh
[email protected]