Aniline (Sauvage) - Leather Couch, Ottoman and Recliner Restoration (1)

OK. This forum is clearly the place to be to get help for leather restoration. Let me lay out my questions.

I have a two-seater couch that has one recliner position, with a matching ottoman. I have a recliner chair. Both are from Natuzzi. Both are showing some staining from hair oil, skin oils, general dirt and, on the right side couch arm, dog saliva. (I guess if saliva is on the arm, then something else might be on the seat...?) Neither piece has any damage, although some wear is clear. I would like to clean them up and, more important, recolor them to match the new room they are moving into.

The couch and ottoman are a teal and I'd like to make it a navy or royal blue or, if that can't be done, then a brown.

The chair is burgundy or maroon that I'd like to color a darker brown.

Pictures show both pieces as well as two tags, both from the teal couch.

Can you tell me what kind of leather the couch and chair are and can you lay out the steps and products I'll need to do the work? (And, I guess, also how much of the products I will need to order.)

Thanks.

Steve G.

Next set of photosAttachment 2268Attachment 2269Attachment 2270Attachment 2271Attachment 2272

Last set of photos.Attachment 2273Attachment 2274Attachment 2275Attachment 2276

>>> Can you tell me what kind of leather the couch and chair are

From pictures, all these three leathers finishes are transparent “Aniline” dyed with a gloss to satin topcoat. Use the Aniline (A) Leather Problem Solving Guide as reference.

Attachment 2277

>>> Both are showing some staining from hair oil, skin oils, general dirt and, on the right side couch arm, dog saliva. (I guess if saliva is on the arm, then something else might be on the seat...?)

Dog Saliva:
This is protein-based stain that tends to coagulate and would require a specialty leather protein stain remover like d’Protein-10 > Acidifier-2.0 as the first step and this applies to the “something else might be on the seat” as well.

Hair Oil, Skin Oils and Sweat:
Most of these contamination are penetrated as well and will require Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system with further help from the Hydrator-3.3 to wick out the contamination.

General Dirt:
A preparatory cleaning both surface and penetrated contamination is done with Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 or Acidifier-2.0 for bleeding control, follows by leather rejuvenating with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0.


>>> Neither piece has any damage, although some wear is clear.

All whitish mud cracking and scratches reveal topcoat damages and deteriorated topcoat is recommended to be stripped chemically with Stripper-2.3 and physically with Eraser-4, Razor-60 and 2000grit Sanding. Leather surface grain wear that can be detected with fingertips is repair by using Adhesor-73.


>>> I would like to clean them up and, more important, recolor them to match the new room they are moving into. The couch and ottoman are a teal and I'd like to make it a navy or royal blue or, if that can't be done, then a brown. The chair is burgundy or maroon that I'd like to color a darker brown.

Working with transparent dyestuff is different from opaque coloring. In opaque or pigment coloring “what you see is what you get” – that is painting a blue over a red result in blue. Working with transparent dyestuff dyeing blue over red result in purple. Moreover the intensity of the color depends on layers and can range from light to dark. The method of dyes distribution and application will also determine the end result. In general it is easier to dye to the dark range using “coating” dyestuff like Anilne-76 > AnilineTop-76 with 9 basic color to choose from (http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...-76/Categories) . Recommend having practice prior to actual application.


Mentioned products are found in these kits and individual as add-on are also available on-line:
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet/StoreFront


Attachment 2278
Leather Doctor Kit A7.cl – Aniline Leather Dye Refinishing Kit
Leather Doctor® Kit A7.cl, aniline leather dye refinishing kit is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing from the simple sunlight fading to the severely sweat damages from body oil and grease. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected stains show a darkening effect with a sticky feel have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that the dyestuff has also break bonds with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or show signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH imbalance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies greasy contamination besides controlling dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of a healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Custom redyeing commences prior to topcoat refinishing. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline leathers dyestuff and topcoat refinishing system.
Email [email protected] for a color matching services.


Attachment 2279
Leather Doctor Kit A5.ps – Aniline Leather Protein-Stain Remover Kit
Leather Doctor® Kit A5.ps, aniline leather protein stain remover kit is designed to remove protein based stains that tends to coagulated. d’Protein-10 is developed to deflocculates coagulating protein stains such as blood, body-discharge, milk, cream, ice cream, egg, meat juices, vomit, perspiration, urine and other protein based stains. Moreover, any staining that comes from a living animal or person will probably need this product in the removing process. Acidifier-2.0 is a leather pH stabilizer that is used to rinse and neutralize to its desired neutral pH of 3 - 5 simultaneously and ensures that the leather retain its healthy squeaky feel with a wet finger testing. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leather and reduces surface tension prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fatliquor-5.0 replenishing rejuvenates the leather structure for softness and suppleness when dry. Protector-B+ enhances a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling. Note that the mentioned products suffix numbers denotes its pH value in this holistic approach to removing protein based stains from auto-perforated leathers.


>>> (And, I guess, also how much of the products I will need to order.)

Suggest to order the closest kit and add individual products to it (example add d’Protein-10 to Kit A7.cl), do some practice and order refills thereafter.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

Roger,

Thanks for your detailed reply. I need some clarification and I have some follow-up questions.

In the "Aniline (A) Leather Problem Solving Guide" do the numbers in the rows indicate the order of application of the various products? For example, to remove protein-based stain, if I follow that row across, I would do first (1) d'protein, then (2) acidifier, then (3) hydrator, then (4) fatliquor, then (5) topcoat and last, (6) protector?

Assuming the above is correct, if I wanted to change the color of the leather, I would insert, between (4) fatliquor and (5) topcoat, the stripper and aniline 76 dye steps.

I am going to order the A7.cl kit and add d'Protein to it. The d'Protein is used on protein spots, so it looks like 250ml will be enough for everything. My question is can I redo the 2-seater couch and the recliner chair with one A7.cl kit? Do you need one kit per chair? I have no sense of how far the product goes.

The same question applies to the Aniline 76 dye. How much do you need to do a couch and a chair? 60ml, 250ml, quart?

With respect to colors, do you have color charts that I can look at? It is hard to tell you I want "blue" if I don't know what blue that is. Do you have a way for me to see the colors?

Thanks very much. I appreciate your assistance. I had no idea there was so much to know.

SteveG

>>> In the "Aniline (A) Leather Problem Solving Guide" do the numbers in the rows indicate the order of application of the various products? For example, to remove protein-based stain, if I follow that row across, I would do first (1) d'protein, then (2) acidifier, then (3) hydrator, then (4) fatliquor, then (5) topcoat and last, (6) protector? Assuming the above is correct, if I wanted to change the color of the leather, I would insert, between (4) fatliquor and (5) topcoat, the stripper and aniline 76 dye steps.

If you have decided to do the above process then the sequence could be rearranged into this sequence:

Stripper-2.3 > d’Protein-10 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Aniline-76 (optional) > AnilneTop-76/21 > Protector-B+.


>>> My question is can I redo the 2-seater couch and the recliner chair with one A7.cl kit?

No, you will need refills.


>>> Do you need one kit per chair? I have no sense of how far the product goes.

You may use the same kit to test out on any aniline leathers, including jackets and bags.
Aniline leathers are absorbent, does not stay on the surface and does not go a long way, it is like wetting almost 30 sheets of newsprint, compare to wax paper (like most pigmented leathers) that stays on the surface and can be stretch a long way.


>>> The same question applies to the Aniline 76 dye. How much do you need to do a couch and a chair? 60ml, 250ml, quart?

You need to test it out on hidden corners or under the seat cushion to find out your desired result. Example when using dark brown you still have up to 4 range of color intensity from light brown to dark brown. The color intensity is build up by layers - it depends on a few factors to determine the quantity - only way is to test it out prior to actual application.


>>> With respect to colors, do you have color charts that I can look at? It is hard to tell you I want "blue" if I don't know what blue that is. Do you have a way for me to see the colors?

There are 9 standard colors and they are inter-mixable.
Attachment 2321


Example:
This dark brown can produce 4 shades as each additional layer intensifies it.
The luster level is also determined by the range of available topcoat from gloss, satin to matte.

Attachment 2322

Tips:
Need to practice before actual application.
Aniline-76 system would require Adhesor-73 to seal and Thickener-48 to control flow during spray application. Different tools used for application may produce different result, need to test them out.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

Roger,

I still have some questions.

<<Stripper-2.3 > d’Protein-10 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Aniline-76 (optional) > AnilneTop-76/21 > Protector-B+.>>
OK. I undestand the complete order. You later say <<Aniline-76 system would require Adhesor-73 to seal>> Where would that fit in? Do you seal before or after you do the dyeing?

Also, if i use the stripper, would I still use Aniline-76 or would I change to Aniline-21?

I asked a few questions about how much of your product I would need to do the couch and chair. You responded by saying that the leather was very absorbent and that I would need refills to complete the entire job. Can you tell me how much I would need to buy to start? Would a quart of Aniline-76 cover one coat on the recliner?

How do you apply the dye if you cannot spray it on? A brush?

Colors are produced by adding more coats of dye. OK. I get that. Thank you.

Thanks for your assistance.

SteveG

<<Stripper-2.3 > d’Protein-10 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Aniline-76 (optional) > AnilneTop-76/21 > Protector-B+. OK. I undestand the complete order. You later say <<Aniline-76 system would require Adhesor-73 to seal>> Where would that fit in? Do you seal before or after you do the dyeing?

We seal both before dyeing and after dyeing.

Before is with Adhesor-73 to seal the surface grains for a more even surface and acts as micro piling to receive Aniline-76 from peeling.

After is with AnilineTop-76G to seal the Anilne-76 from bleeding, crocking and strong against cleaning care.

Adhesor-73 is to seal the leather for a more even appearance when using transparent coating Aniline-76 system.

To control flow or streaking on vertical panel a 10% Thickener-48 is added to the Aniline-76 during spraying.

Thus the sequence should be as follows:

Stripper-2.3 > d’Protein-10 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Adhesor-73 > Aniline-76 (plus 10% Thickener-48) > AnilneTop-76 > Protector-B+.



>>> Also, if i use the stripper, would I still use Aniline-76 or would I change to Aniline-21?

Stripper-2.3 is used to remove existing deteriorating finishes, unused areas or location may be tough to remove thus may not able to produce an even absorbency. Bear in mind that “Staining” transparent dyestuff has to bond with the leather protein fiber to impart color. Aniline-21 is use originally in the tannery because the leather is absolutely clean of any foreign contamination, yet you still see different shade due to the skin different tightness from different areas of the skin. Contaminated and further unnatural blemishes (natural heal scars will not take up coloring and fresh open scars takes up too much) will see through as well, making “Staining” dyestuff not practical to used on already topcoated leathers. Aniline-21 is only recommended for “pure-aniline” leathers with natural topcoat like AnilineTop-21N. Anilne-76 is recommended for aniline leathers that have existing gloss (AnilineTop-21G/76G), matte (AnilineTop-21M) and waxy-matte (AnilineTop-21W).



>>> I asked a few questions about how much of your product I would need to do the couch and chair. You responded by saying that the leather was very absorbent and that I would need refills to complete the entire job. Can you tell me how much I would need to buy to start? Would a quart of Aniline-76 cover one coat on the recliner?

One coat would be sufficient to cover the recliner. It is recommended that the 60ml that comes with the kit would be sufficient to test out a square area on the reverse cushion. Thereafter determine the total areas to be covered and order the refills. It is also recommended that addition color to the blue (too light for refinishing as it is), like black or dark-brown is included as add-on to test out the desired color. Topcoat gloss mixed with matte produce satin for luster consideration as well. It is recommended to use gloss first and thereafter adjust the luster accordingly if desired (test out for cloudiness effect when matte is used).



>>> How do you apply the dye if you cannot spray it on? A brush?

I have learn that using Paasche Double Action is the most practical approach to spraying with constant working pressure of 80 to 100psi. Double action allows flexibility to get into crevices with finger touch control. High working pressure atomizes the spray beautifully due to high viscosity of the thickening (helps vertical flow control from streaking) dyestuff. For motion furniture like recliner, I dismantle them up for various reasons, reachability, drying and avoiding them from sticking together. Working on a horizontal level is easy, working on vertical has to be aware of potential streaks, and working with creases that touches each other is also another detail to consider.

Working with transparent dyestuff is like working with varnishes, so a good quality varnishing brush is an option. I have work with foam brushes, painting brushes, lint-free towel; it is Ok if I apply only one coat. Subsequent coating have potential to streaks them, perhaps have to wait until it cures before next layer is applied or very little pressure is applied.

Color application is a skill by itself (therefore professional painters), with proper tools, a good knowledge and practice a novice can produce a progressive high quality of finishes as well.

Working with transparent dyestuff is NOT “what you see is what you get” unlike opaque pigment where the color is predetermine. We get a range of color intensity even within a panel until it is almost dark if continue to even them out.

Only the average 15% of modern world leather production qualifies as “Aniline” leather for furniture making. The remainder if turn into aniline leathers will show more blemishes then beauty.

In refinishing, to restore back to the original finishes and hide unwanted blemishes, the dark range is the practical choice.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

OK, so my new order is:
Stripper-2.3 > d’Protein-10 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Adhesor-73 > Aniline-76 (plus 10% Thickener-48) > AnilneTop-76 > Protector-B+.
Excellent. Thank you.


I asked: Would a quart of Aniline-76 cover one coat on the recliner?
You answered: One coat would be sufficient to cover the recliner.
Did you mean one QUART would be sufficient?

One more question: where do you ship from? How long would the average shipment take to get to Massachusetts?

Many thanks and have a great holiday season.

Steve

>>> I asked: Would a quart of Aniline-76 cover one coat on the recliner?
You answered: One coat would be sufficient to cover the recliner.
Did you mean one QUART would be sufficient?

Here is a test out:

1. Air supply with a 80 to 100psi constant supply compressor.
2. Application by Paasche Double Action airbrush
3. Product used Aniline-76 (Antique Brown) straight from bottle without 10% Thickener-48 for consistant flow control.
4. Amount use 1gm per coat that covers approximate 6 square inches.

Therefore 1 quart = 946gm should cover approximately – 946 x 6 = 5’676 square inches.

See test out coverage and result with 1gm Anilne-76.

Attachment 2345

>>> One more question: where do you ship from?

Products shipped out from Greater Vancouver, Canada (Tax and duty free).


>>> How long would the average shipment take to get to Massachusetts?

See shipping information

Attachment 2346