Chanel - black lambskin leather bag corner abraded

I purchased my black lambskin leather classic bag last month and I scuffed it and it took a small portion of the top coat off. I tried to fix it on my own and now I have ruined the corner of the bag.

I have...
1. Dyed it numerous times with different over the counter dyes such as melatonian and kiwi.
2. Didn't like that the dye didn't match completely so I took it off with alcohol whiles to take the color off. Unfortunely it took more than the color, it also took the top coat off.
3. I've tried lovin my bags delicate leather collection and Cadillac shoe cleaner and conditioner to try to restore it with no luck.

I would like to restore it to the original color, texture and feel (since one of the spray dyes I used made the leather feel stiff) as much as possible. I'm open to any help I can get but was wondering if I could strip the stuff I put on it, re dye and then put the top coat on it.

What products should I use and is recommended? The rest of the bag is fine, only the one lonely corner needs a re-dye to match the rest of the bag.

One damaged corner

Attachment 3469

Harder to see in this picture but it's on the top corner

Attachment 3476

Undamaged corners

Attachment 3472

Attachment 3477

Attachment 3474

Sequence of processing solution to the problem is recommended as follows:

1] All non-compatible dyes and conditioners has to be stripped off with Stripper-2.3 and/or Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 accordingly to remove all foreign contamination, wet with towel extraction and dry with Eraser-4.
2] Alcohol and spray dyes that resulted in leather stiffness need to be relaxed and stretch back with Hydrator-3.3 and Eraser-4 when dry.
3] Leather suppleness is restored with Fatliquor-5.0 and Eraser-4 when dry.
4] Adhesor-73 repairs abraded skin smoothen it when dry.
5] Aniline-76 coats over Adhesor-73.
6] AnilineTop-21 coats over AnilineTop-76
7] Protector-B+ rub-resistant protector reduces scuff and abrasion.

When you are ready with the system products, I will walk you through the steps.

Alternatively is to send the bag to me for a professional service.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
[email protected]


Products mentioned is found in this Kit A7.cl
Attachment 3483
Leather Doctor Kit A7.cl – Aniline Leather Dye Refinishing Kit
Leather Doctor® Kit A7.cl, aniline leather dye refinishing kit is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing from the simple sunlight fading to the severely sweat damages from body oil and grease. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected stains show a darkening effect with a sticky feel have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that the dyestuff has also break bonds with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or shows signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH imbalance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies greasy contamination besides controlling dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of a healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Custom redyeing commences prior to topcoat refinishing. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline leathers dyestuff and topcoat refinishing system.

I have all my items, please let me know where to start

Restorative cleaning, repair & refinishing may take this sequence of process and
Each successful phase will lead on to the next phase.

1: Restorative Cleaning
2: Hydrating
3: Stain Dyeing
4: Hydrating > Fatliquoring
5: Repairs Abrasion
6: Topcoating
7: Rub-resistant Protection

1 phase - Restorative Cleaning:
The objective of this restorative cleaning phase is to remove all foreign contamination.
Base on first 2 pictures (good to put a reference # to the pictures), the grain seems flatten, it could be due to the overbuilt of products used or the grain has been abraded off. The grain texture once abraded off is not replaceable, built up when removed may restore back the texture. We have to see what the result is during the restorative cleaning phase.

Instructions:
1: From picture #2 of your posting, we will only want to work out the corner triangle.
2: Transfer Stripper-2.3 to a cotton swab and work the foreign contamination off the leather.
3: Change to a new cotton swab each time the cotton swab picks up soiling.
4: To control the leather from becoming too dry and stiff when dry fro inspection, transfer Hydrator-3.3 to a new cotton swab and hydrate the clean area, while still damp or almost dry apply Fatliquor-5.0 using cotton swab as well.
5: We will see how it turns out when dry – before we decide what is the next move.

Note:
Stripper-2.3 works to strip foreign contamination; it will also remove existing topcoats, so have to do it carefully without dripping. At pH 2.3 it helps to reduce dye bleeding and protonate the leather protein fiber cationic or ionic positive (+ve) so that the hydrogen bonding between the anionic or ionic negative (-ve) leather constituents like the tanning agents, dyestuff and fatliquor ionic attraction at the molecular level remaining strong.

Hydrator-3.3 at pH 3.3 works in harmony with the leather pH neutral or iso-electric point or pI of the leather allowing the leather fiber to relax back to its original dimension and helps colloidal water movement within the leather structure wicking them to the surface to be towel extracted, brush with horsehair Brush-1 or erase with Eraser-4 when crispy dry.

Fatliquor-5.0 at pH 5.0 is an anionic fatliquor composes of fat that plumps the leather structure with fullness, oil that lubricates each fibril so that it glides smoothly to impart softness and strength with suppleness and water that leave breathing spaces or pores free of leather natural transpiration. Fatliquor-5.0 - fat, oil and water in an emulsion!


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
[email protected]

Please post next phase

Next phase is Hydrator-3.3. . .

Instruction will base on outcome of Phase 1:

Please show pictures as of your first two pictures and if you have some feedback, the instruction will be more specific.

If there are possible stains within the leather structure, Hydrator-3.3 will need to move them off to the surface.

If there is loss of color then proceed with Aniline-21.

If the surface is entire clean Hydrator-3.3 acts as a surface active agent, dwell to separates the stick-together fiber and is ready for Fatliquor-5.0

Attachment 3643

I have hydrated and used the fat liquor and it feels stiff

>>> I have hydrated and used the fat liquor and it feels stiff.

1] All non-compatible dyes and conditioners has to be stripped off with Stripper-2.3 and/or Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 accordingly to remove all foreign contamination, wet with towel extraction and dry with Eraser-4.

If the 1] process have bring a satisfaction to the appearance, below surface have to work with Hydrator-3.3 to solve the original stiffness problem - (since one of the spray dyes I used made the leather feel stiff).

We do not know what the spray dyes contains – if it has a solid contents that cause the internal leather structure to becomes stick together it has to be chemically dissolved as well. Until we know what the spray content is we may not have the proper antidote to it. If there is no solid contents, it could be the solvent contents have dried out the structural fatliquor and when dries becomes stick together which is the normal problem for leather that feels stiff.
In order to properly hydrate the stick together fiber, the leather is left to dwell for a 72hours period with control evaporation and keeping the leather plumps with interval inspection.
In practice:
Cut the shape of the area that need hydrating attention and use it as a reservoir to contain or hold the Hydrator-3.3, the thicker the better it can hold. Either wrapped with cling wrapper or put the bag in a sealed container. This process will allows the Hydrator-3.3 to relax the stick together fiber internally and when the leather is fully plumps we can press with our fingers to feel moisture oozing out. If there is solid from the spray that was used that cause the fiber to becomes stick together, as mentioned we need to know the contents of the spray that cause the stiffness.
Only when Hydrator-3.3 can soften the stiff leather after the 72hrs dwell period, we then Fatliquor-5.0 it to hold the softness when dry. Fatliquor-5.0 can only reach out to places where the Hydrator-3.3 have been and only deposits the fat and oil where it need be, it have no clearing power like the Hydrator-3.3 as a pre-conditioner.

Please show some pictures if you are doing it right, before the dwell-time starts.

I follows the instructions as stayed aboveAttachment 3658

>>> I follows the instructions as stated above

Are you satisfied with both leather-softness and even-appearance at this stage of progress, also is there a roughness of feel to the touch or abrasion of skin in some area before we proceed to next appropriate phase?

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

Yes I am ready to move forward I'm not feeling that buttery feel for lambskin leather though

>>> I'm not feeling that buttery feel for lambskin leather though

At this stage we are assessing the leather structure suppleness.

That is if this section stiffness/suppleness is the same as surrounding areas and need to be verified before we go to the next phase of coloring it.

The "buttery-feel" of the lambskin leather will come after refinishing and with Protector-B+ will return a buttery-feel.

You may meanwhile test out the inner part of the bag with Protector-B+ and let me know how you like it, and this buttery-feel effect will be felt on this section of repairs as well.

Ok it feels pretty good and hydrated. I tested the inside and it feels soft like the rest of the bag

Have you remembered to fatliquor it?

Yes I made sure to hydrate it and I let it dwell for 72 hours. I've put the fat liquor on it about 8 hours ago.

Remember that every steps in a phase of process contributes to the end result and inspection or quality control is important as the next phases we are either doing some repairs to the rough surface or proceed with the coloring coating.

1] Use Eraser-4 and gently erase any surface residue that have wicked up.

2] If there is any edge roughness you can use Adhesor-73 on a cotton swab and lightly coat it, while almost damp any abraded surface is gently smooth with a spoon object like the concave side of a teaspoon. You may want to feather it out to the edge of this triangle and let it dry. Any roughness at this stage is sandpaper to repair surface roughness. Note: only sand the Adhesor-73 and not the leather itself.

3] When the repairs is dry, apply Aniline-76 transparent coating to the triangle - use a compact cotton swab or a nail polish brush.

4] When you are happy with the result - proceed to topcoat it accordingly using the same brushing techniques as above 3].

5] You may want to check if the gloss luster is the same as the surrounding, otherwise you can clean up the rest of the surface areas and apply the topcoat to the rest of the bag as well.

6] When evenly dry and have an evenly appearance, you may proceed to apply Protector-B+ to help reduce friction rubs or abrasion. This last step will produce a lambskin buttery-feel experience.

Let us share your experience, please, much appreciated!


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

I dont like how the gloss feels and the protection b didn't give it a buttery feeling. What else can I do to make it feel smooth?

Please show pictures to determine your assessment.

Is the repairs looks the same as surroundings?

Is the leather suppleness the same as the surroundings?

Is the tactile-feel the same as the surroundings?

Attachment 3680

I've stopped it again and I've hydrated it and used the fat liquor. It's the gloss at the end that I don't like. Even praying it with protection b I'm not getting the buttery feeling.

>>> I've stopped it again and I've hydrated it and used the fat liquor. It's the gloss at the end that I don't like. Even praying it with protection b I'm not getting the buttery feeling.

Please help me understand what you are trying to achieve.

If the gloss at the end that you don't like - you should not proceed to Protector-B+ (this product makes the surface non-stick and you can not go back to your choice of topcoat unless it is removed with Prep-4.4 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0).

Please! Please! Please! - Do not mess up the sequence.

It's the gloss at the end that you don't like (please explain, because it is too gloss or not enough gloss. Topcoat comes in 4 levels of gloss, but AnilineTop-21G is the most matching among the aniline topcoat.

The triangle looks duller that the surrounding, am I right?

Did you apply the Aniline-76

You keep me guessing all these time, don't help much unless you express exactly what help you need.


Why did you go back to Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 from your post #17?

Remember this should be the sequence Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 (any surface fatliquor residue has to be removed by Hydrator-3.3 before repairs with Adhesor-73 or Aniline-76, otherwise they would not stick properly.


Tips:
Looks like you have to clean off the Protector-B+ (Prep-4.4 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0) take a picture and explain what you like and don't like from there and we will proceed from there.

I have stripped. It off again and started phase 1

1] All non-compatible dyes and conditioners has to be stripped off with Stripper-2.3 and/or Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 accordingly to remove all foreign contamination, wet with towel extraction and dry with Eraser-4.

Now I have used the hydrator 3.3 and I am at my 72 hour mark and have applied the fat liquor.

I dyed it and it looked fine the color matched and it looked very nice. The top coat is where I have the problem. I apply thin layers at a time but it's not smooth and the more gloss applied it becomes too glossy. I'm not sure what I'm doing incorrect but as of now I am ready to redye and then apply the top coat.

Please show some pictures. . .

>>> I apply thin layers at a time but it's not smooth

Have you used the sandpaper in between the dried topcoat (use a hair dryer to speed up the drying process for topcoat application.

Use you finger to a a smooth test, any roughness, smooth out with sandpaper (not the leather, as it will becomes rougher).

For both color and topcoat, do not overdoing it, you need to match the rest of the leather appearance.

Did the sandpaper come in the kit. I don't think I got it, are you able to send a pic of what it looks like please.

See picture for post #2.

It is the beige color paper roll-up.

Ok let me try that. That will make the difference I think

Please show some pictures of what you are trying to do. . .

Attachment 3687

I would like for it to look and feel just like the original finish

>>> I would like for it to look and feel just like the original finish

Tell us what you have done up to this point - and I will give tips from here!

1] All non-compatible dyes and conditioners has to be stripped off with Stripper-2.3 and/or Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 accordingly to remove all foreign contamination, wet with towel extraction and dry with Eraser-4.

And used the hydrator 3.3 let it dwell for 72 hours
Applied to fat liquor


Ready for the next steps

Fatliquor-5.0:

Use a cotton swab and apply Fatliquor-5.0, when the fatliquor is absorbed by the leather, re-apply again.

You will like to try it out if the suppleness is to your liking, other repeat until you have reach the softness of the leather structure.

Use Hydrator-3.3 on cotton swab and work over the leather to ensures that all surface remnants are work into below the surface.

Let it dry and finger tip feels if you notice any roughness.

Take a picture to show and we cam move from there for the next step.

Attachment 3701

I have hydrated the leather and let it dwell for 72 hours and used the fat liquor. The structure feels softer than the rest. Is ere anything I can do to make sure it doesn't lose it's shape?

>>> Is ere anything I can do to make sure it doesn't lose it's shape?

You may stuff the bag from the inside to maintain shape, any dent can be work out again by Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3.


>>> The structure feels softer than the rest.
At the end of 72hrs dwell it should feel softer, but will not keep its softness as the water content evaporates.
The texture suppleness should be the same as the rest before surface smoothness repairs with Adhesor-73, sanding in between coating until perfectly smooth.