Aniline (Sauvage) - leather furniture, cleaning, conditioning, dying, and protecting

Hi Roger, I just purchased a used Arizona aniline leather sofa, chair, and ottoman. The original owner spilled coconut oil on a cushion, a tech came out and sanded all the furniture making kind of nubuck. I have used the leather master degreaser, it did not take all the oil out, I also cleaned all the furniture with leather master strong cleaner and distilled water and extracted. What I would like to do, 1. get out oil stain, 2. remove other unknown stains, 3. condition, leather is very dry, 4. re-dye a darker color, 5. protect so the furniture can be used everyday. If you need pictures I will send, I need to know steps, what to buy, and how much, everything is a bit over stuffed. Thanks, I wish I had found you before I started this!

first picture is just the a close up of one seat. Attachment 2125
second picture is of a seat cushion with unknown stains. Attachment 2126 third picture is a oil stain from coconut oil. Attachment 2127 fourth picture is a stain that was worked on by previous owner, I tried to degrease with leather master and cleaned with soft cleaner and rinsed with distilled water, it is better now then when I started. but i don't know what kind of stain it is or if this is now a water stain. Attachment 2128 fifth picture is unknown stain at edge of cushion, i'm thinking some sort of drink. Attachment 2129

First to leather problem solving solution is positive leather identification, looks aniline so far but aniline still have its fashion varieties especially the topcoat. Please show some pictures of the entire view at different angles.

Please edit and put a number to the pictures and have a little description so we know what we are looking at.


>>> What I would like to do,

>>> 1 get out oil stain,
Oil stain in general is removed by Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0

>>> 2 remove other unknown stains,
The unknown stain need to be examined but which picture should we be looking at?

>>> 3 condition, leather is very dry,
Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 solves the leather dryness problem.

>>> 4 re-dye a darker color,
Choice of Aniline-21 a staining dyestuff or Aniline-76 a coating dyestuff, this is decided after positive leather finishes identification.

>>> 5 protect so the furniture can be used everyday.
Protector-B+ recommended as a non-stick, rub-resistant breathable protector.


We will go into details after viewing pictures with numbers and descriptions.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

These pictures are just different angles and to show size of project for quantities needed, there is also an ottoman not shown that would need product.
Attachment 2131Attachment 2132Attachment 2133Attachment 2134Attachment 2135

The numbers I referred to in my last post go with the original 5 pictures. let me know if you need any other angels. Thanks!

Loriss,

It is difficult for me to connect the pictures associated with the problem scrolling it up and down, I hope I get it right.

Add description to the First pictures and repeat for the others picture as well makes reading easier, so that my answer is specific to the pictures in questions, otherwise I have already answer you.

example...

First - this pictures shows.....................

Second - this picture shows - how to...


Anyway, it looks like the leather aniline of the gloss finish type and this Aniline Problem Solving Guide is used as reference.

Attachment 2139

Products to solve these compound problem comes from this link:
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...ers/Categories

Looks like you are trying to solve pictures #2, #3, #4 and #5. Please have your description to the pictures easier for me to match it up.

In general, in accordance to the Guide – Stain removal comes first prior to repair then follows with color in that sequence.

The general sequence of process will involve the following phase:

1 - General Soiling and Grease Stain Removal including “third – coconut oil” and “fourth – damaged from fail attempt coconut oil removal”picture
Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0

2 - Specialty Stain Removal for Unknown Stain – for “second” and “fifth” picture
d’Protein-10 > Acidifier-2.0 > d’Tarnish-1.3 > d’Tannin-3.5 > Rinse-3.0

3 – Leather Rejuvenation
Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0

4 – Skin Repair to “third” picture after coconut oil removal.
Adhesor-73

5 – Coloring to camouflage the unwanted stain if any using “transparent coating dyestuff” as the last resort.
Anilne-76 (http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...-76/Categories)

6 – Topcoat to seal the dyestuff.
Aniline-76G (http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...-76/Categories)

7 – Non-Stick, Rub-Resistant Protector
Protector-B+ (http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...%29/Categories)


Suggest you have this basic Kit A6.tc and pick individual products as add-on to begin your leather restoration.

Attachment 2137
Leather Doctor® Kit A6.tc, aniline leather topcoat refinishing kit is designed for topcoat repairs from friction wear, accidental scratch, scuff and abrasion to deteriorating greasy sweat stains. These topcoat damages are identified as white, dull or darkening stain from bare body contacts. Accidental whitish damages in most cases are free of soiling and direct AnilineTop-21G application with in between dry sanding rectifies most damages. Repairs to topcoat from daily wears that dulls will require a degreasing to remove penetrated rub-in soiling prior to topcoat application in a sequence process including Degreaser-2.2 follows with Rinse-3.0; Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0 prior to topcoat application. In a greasy and sweaty topcoat damaged areas especially to the headrest and armrest, a deep degreasing is essential follows with Acidifier-2.0 to stabilize the hydrogen bonding between the protein fibers with the other leather constituent like the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. This deep degreasing process is assisted by leather Eraser-4 in both the wet and dry cleaning process to remove soiling particulates off the leather surface. Hydrator-3.3 helps in the colloidal water movement bringing suspended soiling particulates to resurface through a dwelling and wicking process. Fat and oil is replenished by Fatliquor-5.0 in an emulsion form to penetrate into the leather structure. Once the fat and oil is hydrogen bond with the protein fiber, the water content breaks free leaving a breathing space for natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness preventing the leather structure from collapsing during compressing and flexing while the oil lubricates the fiber from sliding smoothly over one another like millions of connecting hinges. Protector-B+ impart a non-stick, rub-resistant surface with a buttery feel helps reduce friction wear to the topcoat and extended a high level of appearance for a longer period of time. When the leather is contaminated with foreign soiling, it is essential to look at topcoat refinishing in a holistic approach. Note that the cleaning and rejuvenating products suffix denotes its pH value in this leather-safe aniline leathers topcoat refinishing system.

Thanks Roger, I edited the pictures for hopefully better understanding, also this furniture was all sanded by previous owner. can you explain why skin repair would be needed after oil removal, thanks. Also how much of Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0, Aniline-76G, and Protector-B+ do you think I need? I cleaned the all the furniture with the leather master soft cleaner, do I need to re-clean everything?

What are the sizes of the kit products, are they the smallest available if you were to order them separately?

>>> also this furniture was all sanded by previous owner.
Please show a contrast between original leather and sand areas.


>>> can you explain why skin repair would be needed after oil removal,
Skin repair is an option if you wish to return back to smooth skin instead of a Nubuck nappy effect.
Smooth skin abrasion is rectifiable with either AnilineTop-21for mild situation to Adhesor-73 for more severe situation. A coarser skin damages will produce a more intense in color when Adhesor-73 is used (test out a hidden areas to see how the product response). AnilineTop-21 or 76 will amplify and magnify the color intensity of the leather as well (again test prior actual application).


>>> Also how much of Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0, Aniline-76G, and Protector-B+ do you think I need?
When working with any of the appropriate starter kit, you will experience how each product response and how much you will need to complete your project by surface areas, absorbency rate and leather thickness.


>>> I cleaned the all the furniture with the leather master soft cleaner; do I need to re-clean everything?
Check out the pH value of your product used (if they are not leather-safe pH between 3 - 5) recommends having it pH balance with a low pH 2.0 acidifier or equivalent for the leather chemistry integrity sake, otherwise leather denaturing set in.


Facts to know about leather care:

1 - Leather is an “amphoteric” protein material with non-amphoteric leather constituents like the tanning agent, fatliquor and dyestuff together that transform rawhide or skin into leather.

2 – Leather has an average pH value average 4 for chrome-tanned leather.

3 – Any solution that has a pH value above 7 will weakens the ionic positive (+ve) charges of the protein leather fiber shifting ionic negative (-ve).

4 – Leather constituents like the tanning agent, fatliquor and dyestuff are ionic negative (-ve) thus when the protein fiber shift negative, the ionic hydrogen-bond between the protein fiber and the leather constituents weakens – behaving just like magnets “like poles repels”. Hence starting the process of denaturing of the leather or reverting back to rawhide.

5 – Denaturing or reverting to rawhide is experience in three main areas: 1st- the effect of the tanning agents results in tackiness of the leather, 2nd - stiffening of the leather after cleaning with lost of fatliquor and 3rd bleeding or rings of the aniline dye during cleaning.

6 – Leathers after cleaning should be return to its pH neutral averaging 4 to retain or maintain its chemistry integrity of the leather from denaturing or returning to rawhide.

7 – Protonating the leather is accomplished with pH below the leather iso-electric point or (pI) such as Degreaser-2.2 (pH 2.2), Acidifier-2.0 (pH 2.0), Hydrator-3.3 (pH 3.3), d’Tannin-3.5 (pH 3.5), d’Tarnish-1.3 (pH 1.3), etc.

8 – pH below the iso-electric point of the leather (pI) will influence the protein fiber and charging it ionic positive (+ve).

Thus it is always prudent to use “leather-safe” (pH 3 – 5) products for cleaning and conditioning, otherwise for specialty cleaning using high pH value like d’Protein-10 (pH 10) it is mandatory to pH balance it with a low pH below the iso-electric point (pI) of leather.

Tips:
Always know the pH value of cleaners and conditioners before using it on leather.

Note:
All Leather Doctor® suffix denotes the product pH value.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

>>> What are the sizes of the kit products, are they the smallest available if you were to order them separately?

The kit bottle sizes are the smallest available.

You may do your own searching by typing the product into the “Advance Search” here: http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet/StoreFront

Attachment 2138

Roger thanks for all your help! can I condition and recolor in the future if I need to over the top of Protector-B+, and Aniline-76G? And is the Protector-B+ and Aniline-76G something I should reapply from time to time? Thanks!

Yes, you can repeat recolor and condition in the future.

Please refer to guide:

Protector-B+ is repeatedly used during the routine, periodic and restorative care cycle.

Recoloring is only recommended as the last resort and not for first timer unless you are familiar with 80 to 100psi constant air supply airbrushing. Need some airbrushing practice prior to actual attempt.

Note:
For redyeing please refer to – Sunfading under Finish Problem for sequence of process.


Product Information:


Attachment 2154
Leather Doctor Aniline-76

Aniline-76 is a transparent dyestuff that is design for coating over existing topcoat. This lively and brilliant new generation aqueous dyestuff provides a more superior light fastness and fades resistance than most standard liquid dyes.

To stain directly into leather with no impeding topcoat use Aniline-21 instead.

Use AnilineTop-76 thereafter to seal dyestuff from crocking or bleeding that also decides the luster with either gloss or matte, or a mix for a satin luster.

Nine (9) standard colors are available for direct application and for creating a secondary or tertiary color to match.

The popular Antique-Brown is an example of a mix of one part Orange, Red-Brown and Dark-Brown.


Attachment 2155
Leather Doctor AnilineTop-76

AnilineTop-76 is a heavy-duty gloss topcoat design for upholstery and auto aniline leathers. It is a waterbased fine particular size urethane-resin emulsion to protect aniline dyestuff with excellent toughness and flexibility.

Luster is available in gloss or matte for direct application or a mix to produce a satin luster.

do you have any idea how much dye I would need for the sofa, chair, and ottoman? Is it easier to do aniline-21 or aniline-76 for the first time user? I realize that they are both done on two different conditions of the leather. My gut tells me it would be aniline-76.

>>> do you have any idea how much dye I would need for the sofa, chair, and ottoman?

Amount of dyestuff used will depend on the rate of absorbency and the desired color intensity. Each leather response differently, even from area to area. Only after a test on hidden areas (the reverse of cushion) that one can determine how much is required for the remaining surface areas.


>>> Is it easier to do aniline-21 or aniline-76 for the first time user?

Both dyes have the exact color range available, Aniline-21 is to be used first that absorb or stain into the leather protein fiber (uneven absorbency rate will produce different color intensity that will either produce the natural beauty or amplify or magnify the unwanted blemishes as well. To overcome or correct unwanted blemishes is to use Aniline-76 to coats over it.


Tips:
When repair with Adhesor-73 to smooth skin is inevitable – Aniline-76 is the only solution.

There are still quite a number of issues that need to take into consideration to produce professional result when comes to the actual application – a practice is mandatory prior to actual application.

It is still early whether dyeing is necessary after repairs with Adhesor-73 > AnilineTop-21, unless a much darker brown range is desired.



Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

Should I use AnilineTop-21 for protection from everyday use even if I don't re-dye using anilin-21?

The first defense for wear is Protector-B+.

The second defense is AnilineTop-21, however the Protector-B+ has to be stripped or removed (either Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 or Prep-4.4 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 accordingly) prior to topcoat it.


When Protector-B+ is used routinely, that is a non-stick rub-resistant protector the topcoat is seldom used unless there is clear sign that some wear is obvious.

I'm wanting to do a color change to a darker color, to cover blemishes and because we just want a darker color. Can I just use aniline-76 and aniline top-76 after cleaning, degreasing, hydrating, and fat? Does the aniline-76 retain a natural leather look?

Aniline-76 is a transparent “coating” dyestuff to produce a natural look.

See the guide for sequence of process.

Suggest you do a practice on some cardboard, testing on reverse cushion prior to actual application.

Airbrushing with pressure 80 to 100psi will facilitate dyestuff application.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

Hi Roger, using the Hydrator it suggests absorbent tissue paper, would that be the same as tissue paper bought at a crafts store for gifts? Also, I bought the Bond 3D for a tear, behind the tear is foam (it's located on the frame portion of the sofa) will the Bond 3D adhere to that?

Paper towel comes with Kit A6.tc and every kit. Individual item is found in this link: http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...ags/Categories

Bond-3D is a leather bond, will only bond leather. Tear repair will require a leather sub-patch bond suede to suede side. First bond to one side and leave dry before bonding the other side. It will only stick together when completely dry and need to be hold in place during drying. When cures it becomes part of leather.



Attachment 2292
Paper Towel Rags
Paper Towel Rags rag works like cloth, lint free, highly absorbent and washable. General application is for extracting suspended soiling. Used in the reverse transfer technique where suspended stains are being absorbed by it instead of remaining on the leather surface. Used as reservoir to slowly penetrate hydrator and fatliquor through finishes developed micro crazing. Also used for both dye and topcoat padding for smooth leathers.


Attachment 2293
Leather Doctor Leather Bond-3D (30ml)

Leather Doctor® Leather Bond-3D is for leather structure bonding repairs, such as abrasion, cat-scratch, and filling repairs with Stucco-90, Pigment-64, Micro-54, Anline-76 and Aniline-21. This waterbased medium soft polyurethane leather bond will not lift the leather finishes unlike other dry solvent-based glue. Works in conjunction with leather Patch-4S as sub patch and suede fibers as fillers. Excess clean up when dry will require the help of Bond-7A.


Attachment 2294
Leather Doctor® Leather Patch-4S (6” x 4”)
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...-4S/Categories

Leather Doctor® leather Patch-4S is use as a sub-patch during surface skin repair in conjunction with leather Bond-3D. This is 0.4mm thick vegetable tanned full-grain leather.

Color intensity derived from Antique Brown - shows the different color saturation from top to bottom and luster level from left to right.

Attachment 2329

Thanks Roger, can leather absorb hydrator and fatliquor after the Protector-B has been applied? I'm thinking for maintenance.

Thanks!

>>> can leather absorb Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 after the Protector-B has been applied? I'm thinking for maintenance.

Yes, leather remains absorbent. Protector-B is “non-film forming” so it does not retards the natural transpiration or breathing process of the leather.
The Protector "B+" is the leather scented version and the "B" is scentless.


Attachment 2330
Leather Doctor Protector-B+
Leather Doctor® Protector-B+, a buttery-feel with a classic leather scent is design for pigmented, aniline and nubuck oil pull-up leather types. This is a non-film forming, non-stick, rub-resistant protector that enhances a soft natural tactile feel for imparting a breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling and preventing the too common pesky ballpoint from ever ready rolling out its nasty ink. Moreover, for helping to release those tenacious blue jeans dye-transfer stains obviously on light colored leathers easily. Its natural buttery-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch; scuff and abrasion with reduce friction squeaks.

http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...%29/Categories

Hi Roger, If I use Impregnator-26 will I have to use Aniline-76 to cover up using the impregnator? Thanks!

Impregnator-26 is design to impregnate by soaking into the leather structure.

Any surface deposit is complete wipe off with dry and follow up with wet (Rinse-3.0) paper towel.

Any surface remainder may show a darkening effect on light to medium range colored leathers.

Dark leathers will have less concern of this possible darkening effect.


Aniline-76 is a transparent coating dyestuff, thus the base will still see thru.

It is not use to cover-up any defects but rather camouflage to the same color range.

The cover-up or rather to seal the leather surface prior to Aniline-76 is to use Adhesor-73.

Adhesor-73 helps to even out absorbency rate of the leather surface to reduce uneven saturation thus producing a savage appearance or streaks or blotchiness. Therefore it is strongly recommend to seal up for even surface absorbency to produce a more even appearance.

Highly recommend you test this out on the reverse cushion to see the outcome.

Dyeing and coloring is an “ART” and thus need to experience it to develop skill and technique prior to actual application.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com






Attachment 2400
Leather Doctor Impregnator-26

Leather Doctor® Impregnator-26 is design for structural weakness on pigmented and aniline smooth leather types. This is a protein compact resin-blend compound for impregnating worn leather grains and micro cracks. It is to seal, strengthen and leveling out uneven absorption for further coating process. It fills and tightens with good leveling properties that is film forming for improve abrasion resistance.


Attachment 2401
Leather Doctor Adhesor-73
Leather Doctor® Adhesor-73 is an auxiliary for refinishing pigmented, aniline, bicast and simulated leathers. This is a waterbased compact resin adhesion promoter for a) smoothening abraded surfaces, b) ensure proper sealing and adhesion prior to color coating and c) used after Wax Effect-8.6 prior to topcoat application.

If a wine stain is old and I already hydrated and fatliquor do you think I have any chance of getting it out?

The only product to remove wine stain is using d'Tannin-3.5


Attachment 2411
Leather Doctor d’Tannin-3.5

Leather Doctor® d’Tannin-3.5 is a pH 3.5 aqueous leather-safe tannin stain remover for removing cellulose stains such as coffee, tea, wine and some dyes. Stains that derive from vegetations and plants will probably be removed with this product. It is for all leather types including pigmented, Aniline, Vachetta, Nubuck, Suede, Hair-on-Hide and Woolskin.

http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...nin/Categories

Does Impregnator-26 or Adhesor-73 Change the softness of the leather, does either make it stiffer? Also, does Adhesor-73 make the leather darker and if so would using Impregnator-26 and Adhesor-73 together make the leather go even darker then using only on of them?

Thanks, Lori

>>> Does Impregnator-26 or Adhesor-73 Change the softness of the leather, does either make it stiffer?

Impregnator-26 is for strengthening of weakening leather structure from over stretching that becomes too soft with weakness and may easily tear due to lost of tensile strength, so this product in a way stiffen the too soft and weak leathers.
Adhesor-73 is for surface abrasion repairs. Surface abrasion do cause the softening up of the leather in those areas thus using Adhesor-73 is to replace or build up leather grain loss and in a way stiffen the weak abraded areas as well.

Note that stiffness of leather is associated with the thickness of the leather structure and fatliquor determines the leather suppleness or softness with strength. The higher the percentage of fatliquor (fat, oil and water) up to 14% the softer and stronger the leather is. Over-stretch empty or diminishes of fatliquor leather through evaporation (volatile organic compound) may also be soft but is weak as well and lost its rip-tensile-strength. The average tensile strength for leather averages 2000psi, while special specified leathers goes higher and lower than 1800psi will have potential stitch tear problems where the stitching holes becomes elongated and split or cracks. Periodic topping up the percentage of fatliquor prevents premature cracking of the leather with the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 rejuvenating system.


>>> Also, does Adhesor-73 make the leather darker and if so would using Impregnator-26 and Adhesor-73 together make the leather go even darker then using only on of them?

Impregnator-26 is meant to “impregnate” the weak leather structure and any surface remnant or deposit is removed with Rinse-3.0 or Hydrator-3.3 without a build-up. A darkening effect may still be visible on light to medium colored aniline leather but not an issue with the popular dark range of Red-Brown, Dark-Brown or Antique Brown.
All repairs will pose a degree of darkening effect depending on the existing color range. A rule of thumb is to check it with Hydrator-3.3 and if it darkens when wet, will possibly be darken too with both the Impregnator-26 and or Adhesor-73 when dry.

Tips:
It is easier to work with dark color then to work with light color leathers.

Black and dark-brown will not be an issue, thus it is recommended to do a testing prior to every actual application.

Self-experience is the better teacher that develops sound judgement when comes to the art of restoring aesthetic appearance.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

>>> Does the Adhesor-73 add some strength?

Adhesor-73 is a surface repairer and does not play in strengthening the leather - only Impregnator-26 and Fatliquor-5.0 does.


>>> There is one deep scratch would the Adhesor-73 fill that.

Filling is done either with Stucco-90 for non-stress areas and Bond-3D is for stress area either using donor suede fiber or added to Stucco-90 for strength.


>>> Also, can the leather be at a later date be hydrated and Fatliquor-5.0 through the Adhesor-73?

Adhesor-73 seals the leather making it non-penetrable and will resist hydrating and fatliquoring until micro crazing develops. It is recommend to rejuvenate with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 prior to sealing it, otherwise alternative is to rejuvenate from the suede side.

Does impregnator also seal the leather making it non-penetrable?

When refer to the guide we see that Impregnator-26 always come after Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 in that sequence of steps. Rejuvenating prior to impregnating allows the leather structure to be lubricated and be softened up as soft as one wish otherwise they becomes non-penetrable and the leather structure may be stiffer without the fat and oil.

I Roger, here is a picture of the cushion that had the coconut oil stain. I used degreaser 2 times and the oil stain appeared to disappear so I cleaned, hydrated, and applied fatliquor. The leather overall is a darker richer color but the oil stain reappeared and there is a lighter area around the oil stain because of the degreaser.

The second picture is the same cushion a more distant view

Is there anything that can be to change the appearance or hide the oil stain?

Would the Aniline-76 in a dark color hide this? I do want to go darker on this sofa.

another question information at got from another post. (Before is with Adhesor-73 to seal the surface grains for a more even surface and acts as micro piling to receive Aniline-76 from peeling.

Is it mandatory to use Adhesor-73 before Aniline-76? Would Aniline-76 peel without first using Adhesor-73?

Thanks, Lori

Attachment 2422
Attachment 2423

>>> Is there anything that can be to change the appearance or hide the oil stain?

Penetrate stains is just like an iceberg more beneath that we cannot see or a surface damage apple only appears deeper with each slice. The suspended oily particulates is being carried by the Hydrator-3.3 as it wicks out, remains on the surface, may be removed by using Eraser-4 depending on the amount still below surface. A more effective method is to use the stretchable paper towel that comes with the kit and use is for “reverse transfer”. A reverse transfer technique is using this stretchable paper towel over the stain while the leather structure is fully hydrated with moisture oozing out when pressed with finger and thumb. Brush-1 helps to eliminate air spaces and stretches the towel so that it will shrink back as it dries. This technique allows the suspended oily particulates to wick through and being absorb by the towel instead of still remaining on the leather surface. The paper towel is peeled only when crispy dry.


>>> and there is a lighter area around the oil stain because of the degreaser

This is a sign of over cleaning that removes the original fatliquor as well. The re-appearing stains suggest that it is still fugitive or running and need to be totally off the leather surface before correction to the lightening areas. Correction to the lightening areas is done with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system. Hydrator-3.3 reactivate dormant dyestuff from surrounding areas to redistribute and Fatliquor-5.0 intensified it. Distributing of dormant dyestuff is best done over a period of 72 hours with control drying using cling wrapper.


>>> Would the Aniline-76 in a dark color hide this? I do want to go darker on this sofa.
Anilne-76 is a transparent dyestuff, not recommend in this situation for hiding “fugitive or running” stains.


>>> another question information at got from another post. (Before is with Adhesor-73 to seal the surface grains for a more even surface and acts as micro piling to receive Aniline-76 from peeling. Is it mandatory to use Adhesor-73 before Aniline-76? Would Aniline-76 peel without first using Adhesor-73?
It will depends on the existing condition of the leather in question. In most application the Adhesor-73 serves to seal uneven absorbent rate to reduce difference of color intensity. It also intensify the existing color and in some cases it suffice without any extra color but only finishes with the desired AnilineTop-21/76.

Thanks Roger.

Would Aniline-76 peel without first using Adhesor-73?

My intention is to go darker with this sofa, much darker.

>>> Would Aniline-76 peel without first using Adhesor-73? My intention is to go darker with this sofa, much darker.


When a surface is well prepared Aniline-76 alone will not peel.
Coating on oily stains will cause adhesion and intensity issue – thus the purpose of Adhesor-73


Please check with system Guide:

Surface preparation – Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0

Leather Rejuvenation – Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0

Refinishing – Adhesor-73 > Aniline-76 > AnilneTop-21/76

Protection – Protector-B+


>>> My intention is to go darker with this sofa, much darker.

Suggest you do a practice at hidden corners, there are the creases that is difficult to reach during application, the drying time (hair dryer), curing time - otherwise they becomes stick together. You will need some practice before attempting on the actual sofa, especially the dyeing part itself.

Roger,

If I don't get all that coconut oil stain out will the Aniline-76 peel?

Can I spot use the Adhesor-73 or should it be applied over the entire surface of top side of cushion?

If I use Adhesor-73 anywhere on this project does it mean I will need to use it on the whole sofa for color uniformity?

Can leather absorb hydrator and fatliquor after Aniline-76 has been applied without the use of Adhesor-73?

The sticking from Aniline-76 you referred to is that just a dry/curing time issue or is it also how thick per coat?

Does Adhesor-73 also protect the leather from future oil and stains from penetrating?

Does Aniline-76 also protect the leather from future oil and stains from penetrating?

Thanks so much for your patience and valuable information, there is so much to know about all your products!

Lori

>>> If I don't get all that coconut oil stain out will the Aniline-76 peel?

Most likely it will peel as in most other industry coatings a oily based is not a good foundation and practically every industry have their specialty degreaser, so do Leather Doctor® a leather-safe degreaser with a pH of 2.2, both to degrease penetrated oils and protonate the protein amphoteric fiber at the same time for leather pH chemistry integrity.


>>> Can I spot use the Adhesor-73 or should it be applied over the entire surface of top side of cushion?

For aniline leathers, spotting is not recommended to rectify appearance. It has to be done the entire panel to have aesthetic appearance. Panels of difference color shades or intensity is acceptable, a slight color difference within the same panel is considered imperfect.


>>> If I use Adhesor-73 anywhere on this project does it mean I will need to use it on the whole sofa for color uniformity?

For aesthetic appearance minimum requirement is within a panel and balanced symmetrically as a whole is preferred.


>>> Can leather absorb hydrator and fatliquor after Aniline-76 has been applied without the use of Adhesor-73?

Aniline-76 is a coating dyestuff, so impede penetration thereafter to a degree until micro crazing develops. Otherwise use Aniline-21 as a staining dyestuff. AnilineTop-21/76 will impede penetration as well until micro crazing develops.


>>> The sticking from Aniline-76 you referred to is that just a dry/curing time issue or is it also how thick per coat?

Stickiness for Aniline-76 is the drying / curing time issue, Aniline-21 penetrates so does not have sticky issue while drying or curing.


>>> Does Adhesor-73 also protect the leather from future oil and stains from penetrating?

Adhesor-73 seals surface pores, means that it becomes less absorbent


>>> Does Aniline-76 also protect the leather from future oil and stains from penetrating?

All coating will protect liquid penetration to a degree until micro crazing develops, some sooner some later. Unlike Anilnie-21 makes the leather feels more natural for seating comfort.


>>> Thanks so much for your patience and valuable information, there is so much to know about all your products!

Training is available for a 5 to 7 days course let me know if you are interested based on these training kits on theory and practical with 28 leather finishes types problem solving guides.

#1
Leather Cleaner & Conditioner Training Kit-CC8
Attachment 2434


#2
Leather Specialty Cleaner & Remover Training Kit-SC8
Attachment 2435


#3
Leather Repair & Refinishing Training Kit-RR8
Attachment 2436


#4
Attachment 2437
Leather Color Matching Training Kit-CM8


Leather Problem Solving Guide

Attachment 2438

I would be interested in the training, should I email you with any questions about it?

I may want to strip any remaining finish and use Aniline-21 dye.

Is Aniline-21 available in antique brown?

If I apply an Aniline-21 color is there a product that would remove it if I didn't like the color?

Lori

>>> I would be interested in the training, should I email you with any questions about it?

Yes, please email: [email protected]



>>> I may want to strip any remaining finish and use Aniline-21 dye.

Use Stripper-2.3



>>> Is Aniline-21 available in antique brown?

Antique Brown is a secondary color derives from an equal mix of Yellow or Orange with Red-Brown and Dark-Brown in ratio 1: 1: 1



>>> If I apply an Aniline-21 color is there a product that would remove it if I didn't like the color?

Use Stripper-2.3

It is unlikely to achieve a uniform appearance with Aniline-21, this is typically used for Pure-Aniline, Suede, Nubuck, wax and oil pull-up aniline with less of an existing topcoat issue that may impede penetration. And it is common to see “Aniline Savage” even when done by leather chemist from the modern tannery – acceptable as they reveal all the natural beauty, scars, insect bites and from difference texture density and absorbency within a hide. Do not be surprise if they look as wild that may shock you. Proper preparation to accept the dye evenly (any presence of oil will not accept dyes properly) contributes to the major success for stain redyeing that makes it easy and beautiful.

The furniture was sanded by the previous owner, does this put it in more of a Pure-Aniline category?

They did not sand all the way thru to the low parts of the grain, I would think top-coat would still be in the low parts of the grain?