2010 Audi seats are becoming shiny, a bit slippery and not as soft as new, and my steering wheel is very slippery and shiny – need help!

Hello,
I've been reading your forum and am intrigued by the results I've seen using your products, very impressive.
My car (2010 Audi, not sure of leather type) seats are becoming shiny, a bit slippery and not as soft as new, and my steering wheel is very slippery and shiny.
I have tried using lexol cleaner and conditioner which helped, but it's nowhere near like new in both texture and finish.
Are there any experts local to Philadelphia you can recommend that can get my leather like new?
Thanks,
Jason
Jason,

Is the steering sticky in anyway?

Alkaline solution swells the leather and turns it sticky.

Acidic solution contracts the leather and finishes and makes it stronger and healthier.

When a person clean dishes with strong alkaline solution their skins swells as well – the same logic, leather is protein fiber.

Acidifier as an add on is only $11 for a 250ml spray bottle.

Send me some pictures from your picture folder and I will help the best to solve the problem for you.

It will be best to strip all non-comparable products used previously, or deteriorating products that itself becomes a problem to the leather and not the leather itself.

To restore the luster level after restorative cleaning, there is an option to apply a matte topcoat that helps protect the finish from friction rubs wear.

Product found in this kit

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps395ac506.jpg
Leather Doctor® Auto Pigmented Leather Care + Ink/Dye + Degreaser + Topcoat = Kit Ap5.dr

Roger,
The leather is not sticky to the touch, but after having my hands on the wheel for a few minutes and the contact between my hand and the wheel warms up, it becomes sticky.
It is dark out now but I attached pictures with just the interior lights on, and then with my camera phone flash + interior lights.
#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...onAudi-419.jpg

#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...onAudi-432.jpg

#3
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...onAudi-511.jpg

#4
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...onAudi-536.jpg

#5
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...onAudi-600.jpg


Jason,

There are 2 scenario to the sticky phenomenon.

Less concern is the residue of cleaners and conditioners ageing that gives the leather the sticky feeling – the stickiness goes together when these foreign contaminations is stripped off clean.

Thereafter a non-stick Protection-D+ (anti-slip for steering) is applied – problem solved.

You did not mention how long did you remember that it was not sticky then, so through time the deteriorating conditioner or the alkaline residue continues to work on the leather that causes the weakening of the original topcoat.

If this is so, a test after a complete stripped down and test it again will determine whether the topcoat needs to be refinished.

When the topcoat is crosslink with a crosslinker it will self correct the inherent stickiness.

Thereafter the non-stick Protector-D+ is applied.

Determine the problem; the solution is straightforward to match the existing condition.

What do you think?

Roger

== =
Roger,
The stickiness started approximately 6 months ago...when I first applied the lexol.
= = =

Roger,

I have begun my restoration, starting with my steering wheel.

This is what I've done so far, I'm afraid I forgot about the Topcoat.

1. Acidifier + 10 minutes dwell + wipe with provided cloth
2. Prep 7.7 + horsehair agitation + 10 minutes dwell + wipe with provided cloth
3. Cleaner 3.8 + horsehair agitation + 10 minutes dwell + wipe with provided cloth

Left alone for 48 hours (did not drive)

4. Hydrator 3.3 + 20 minutes dwell with reapplication + sponge
5. Fatliquor 5.0 + 6 hours dwell (will revisit tomorrow morning)

When do I use the topcoat?

Thanks,
Jason
===
Roger,
I came out to my car after overnight fatliquor dwelling and the wheel seems over saturated, slightly greasy to the touch but very soft. What should I do next?
===
#6
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...112_094106.jpg

So far I have just completed steps 1 and 2, will test and proceed today.
This photo is immediately after step 1, the finish is much improved, much more matte and less greasy.
I will send more photos of the next steps.
Thanks,
Jason
===

So far I have just completed steps 1 and 2, will test and proceed today.
This photo is immediately after step 1, the finish is much improved, much more matte and less greasy.
I will send more photos of the next steps.
#7
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...113_161717.jpg
===
Roger,
I will be doing the topcoat soon, about the sanding, how aggressive should I be?
>>>
Roger,
I might have done some damage here, you can see some pictures of the steering wheel during (steering wheel controls) and after sanding (top of wheel).
I did notice I reached some pigment but very very little, is the discoloration I'm seeing just the removed topcoat? Will it go away when I apply the new topcoat? I will hold off on any progress until I hear from you.
>>>

#8
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...116_182654.jpg
#9
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...116_181853.jpg
>>>
Roger,
I am progressing slowly, see the attached pictures for better sanding. Is this sufficient?
#10
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...119_180536.jpg
#11
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...119_180501.jpg
>>>
Looks good,

Remove all residue with a wipe of Hydrator-3.3.

To avoid streaks on application.

1] Use hair dryer to ensure coating is dry prior to next coating.

2] Use as light a pressure for subsequent application

Roger
>>>
Is it okay to dry overnight instead of a hair dryer?
Shall I apply top coat with a lint free towel or the provided sponge?
>>>
Do a practice to see which is more comfortable for use.

Make sure you do not drag subsequent coating to avoid streaking.

Overnight is Ok!
>>>
Roger,
Before I apply the topcoat, is it necessary to clean the leather again?
I have been driving my car since I started when I have received my kit, but have worn winter gloves to avoid soiling the leather any further until I am finished restoring.
>>>

Roger,

The first application of topcoat was successful, though I noticed a bit of streaking in some areas. Upon second application of the topcoat, I noticed some sections with discoloration that I had not noticed before. See the photos below, there appears to be several sections with the darker discolorations in approximately the same position on the wheel. They appear as pure black pigments among the dark gray leather.

Also, I would like to start on the driver's seat next. My main concerns are to remove the shine, improve the texture (the leather is slick), and remove the wrinkles which have formed over time. I will proceed with the restorative cleaning phases, my question is, how do I know if the topcoat needs to be refinished?

The first application of topcoat was successful, though I noticed a bit of streaking in some areas. Upon second application of the topcoat, I noticed some sections with discoloration that I had not noticed before. See the photos below, there appears to be several sections with the darker discolorations in approximately the same position on the wheel. They appear as pure black pigments among the dark gray leather.

Remember that I did mentioned about the sanding has to be done evenly?

Whatever you may not see will be magnified when the topcoat is applied, that also includes the beauty of the leather as well.

These darker discolorations are easily corrected by re-sanding where you have missed the first time and reapply.

It will eventually blend in to your desired expected result.



Also, I would like to start on the driver's seat next. My main concerns are to remove the shine, improve the texture (the leather is slick), and remove the wrinkles which have formed over time. I will proceed with the restorative cleaning phases, my question is, how do I know if the topcoat needs to be refinished?


To remove the shine – Use Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0.

Dwelling time for the Prep-7.7 is the key to successful foreign contamination stripping down to the original OEM finish. Let it dwell for half an hour to 3 hours depending on the severity of the shine, thereafter the sticky residue is removed by Cleaner-3.8 with agitating horsehair brush. All residue is rinse with Rinse-3.0 until squeaky clean with terry towel extraction.

Topcoat will wear with friction rubs – do a test on the surface contact area with the non-surface contact areas.
Use 2000grit sandpaper, when sand on wear area will not produce whitish powder – as compare to un-used areas.

Another observation is that the wear areas will have a higher level of luster as compare to un-used areas.

You may not be able to much about the wrinkles. You may only help reduce developing by hydrating the seams follows with fatliquor replenishing on a periodic basis. Fat and oil evaporates through the stitching holes that draws from surrounding areas that empties the leather is the reason of wrinkles forming.


Roger Koh
[email protected]

Roger,

Thanks for posting this thread!

New questions,

1. After the second coat of top coat, I've noticed some dark spots around the steering wheel that I didn't see before, what should I do?

Attachment 936

Attachment 935

2. The second coat has made the wheel shiny, should I use some 2000 grit sand paper to dull it?

"1. After the second coat of topcoat, I've noticed some dark spots around the steering wheel that I didn't see before, what should I do?"

Just sand away, you must have missed it the first time.
Re-apply to blend new application.


"2. The second coat has made the wheel shiny, should I use some 2000 grit sand paper to dull it?"

Did you use “matte” and shake the bottle well leaving no residue at the bottom?
To have the luster duller, you will need to add Duller-63, instead of sanding.

I'll work on the sanding.

Also I used topcoat 72m, shaken very well because I noticed the settling of the liquid.

The leather feels strange, it's slick, smooth and feels "enameled".

I put on two coats, but they might have been too thick.

The leather feels strange, it's slick, smooth and feels "enameled".

The feel of the finish is determined by either Protector-B+ or Protector-D+

B+ will impart a buttery-feel and

D+ will impart a draggy-feel

You can mix up the 2 (or apply one after another) to give you the desired custom feel and luster level.

D+ is lower in luster with a better grip.

Let me know what you prefer.

Note:
Do not apply topcoat after protector (unless they are completely removed).

Roger,

I'm still working on the wheel sanding, sections at a time, much more meticulous this time.

I have started the seats, I will post pictures of the cleaning, this has made a major improvement!

Could you explain the test for top coat?

Thanks,
Jason

Could you explain the test for top coat?

It is easier when referring to a picture, depending on its existing condition, if it has shown worn, it has to wear through the topcoat before it wears the colorcoat and on certain severe wear areas the color is worn out as well.

For a test, use 2000grit sandpaper and watch the color of the residue, if it is whitish - the topcoat is sanded.

When color appears, it is the begin of the colorcoat.

Okay, if whitish, there is no need to replace the top coat, correct?

You would only apply new topcoat when the existing one is lightly sanded to reveal a whitish powder.

That is to say it is clean enough to do so.

It is up to you whether you wish to have a renew topcoat, as they wears off with friction rubs.

In this situation one coating would be sufficient.

Extreme cases you may want to have at least 3 coating and for extra strengh you would want to crosslinked it with Crosslinker-25.

Hello Roger,

I'm resuming my leather cleaning project after a break during the winter months, and am updating my status:

1. Steering wheel - sanding proved to be too tedious for my patience. There are many, many surface irregularities that I couldn't seem to even out with sanding. Now that I have some perspective, I think this is where I went wrong; I think the issue I had was not enough dwell time for the cleaning phase, which led me to believe that I needed to replace the topcoat.

Anyway,I bought a new steering wheel off eBay. The wheel is unused (and has paddle shifters!), but was likely manufactured between 2005-2008 so the leather is a bit dried out. I have applied Protection D (very nice product, by the way!), and would like to know since the wheel has not been used, can I skip the cleaning procedure and go right to fatliquor + hydration steps, followed by more Protection D?

2. Driver's seat: I left off after phase 2 (fatliquor + hydration), and will apply the Routine Care protocol.

3. Passenger's seat: Will be starting Restorative Care protocol.

4. Arm Rests + Shifter: Will be starting Restorative Care protocol.

As a side note, I think the previous owner used Neatsfoot oil somewhere on the steering wheel (I recognized a smell similar to a baseball glove), is there any special protocol to follow to extract any remnants of this oil from the seats? This could possibly the the contaminant that I'm noticing has made the seats shiny.

Thanks again for your excellent support and very effective products!

>>>Anyway,I bought a new steering wheel off eBay. The wheel is unused (and has paddle shifters!), but was likely manufactured between 2005-2008 so the leather is a bit dried out. I have applied Protection D (very nice product, by the way!), and would like to know since the wheel has not been used, can I skip the cleaning procedure and go right to fatliquor + hydration steps, followed by more Protection D?

Yes, you could go straight to hydrating at the end of hydrating you could extract moisture from within the leather if the leather is absorbent.
This would follows with Fatliquor-5.0 and after it is absorbed into the leather, water contents breaks free and could be extracted with terry as well.
So in both ends of the processes you are also do some cleaning as well.
Note that leather rejuvenating is all about saturating the leather structure, if Hydrator-3.3 does not wet out the leather structure, fatliquoring is futile if it stay on the surface. Any excess that does not penetrate into the leather structure due to finishes has to be removed with the Hydrator-3.3, otherwise it will remain sticky.


>>>As a side note, I think the previous owner used Neatsfoot oil somewhere on the steering wheel (I recognized a smell similar to a baseball glove), is there any special protocol to follow to extract any remnants of this oil from the seats? This could possibly the the contaminant that I'm noticing has made the seats shiny.

Oil and grease is easily removed with Degreaser-2.2 follows with Rinse-3.0.
Alternative is to use Prep-7.7 for a long dwell and follows with Cleaner-3.8 to remove the sticky residue, then Rinse-3.0 to a squeaky-feel.