Hi, My burberry wallet has been used substantially and I would like it to be my first project to leather restoration. Hoping you can give me some recommendation on what to do and what products I will need. Thanks!
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Hi, My burberry wallet has been used substantially and I would like it to be my first project to leather restoration. Hoping you can give me some recommendation on what to do and what products I will need. Thanks!
Good pictures and a numbering and description would help better of your intent.
Picture #1
This picture shows the wear of the white finishes system into the leather crust.
When the crust is suede from friction rubs it would need Adhesor-73 to smooth it out.
Picture #2
This picture shows worn areas becoming absorbent and accumulates greasy soiling with tarnish stain.
Picture #3
This picture shows even the thread accumulates the same soiling types.
>>> Hoping you can give me some recommendation on what to do and what products I will need.
A holistic leather restoration both to the leather crust and to the finishes is as follows:
1 – Preparation Cleaning
Preparation cleaning is done with Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 system and if tackiness is felt at the leather crust exposed areas or the finishes itself Acidifier-2.0 is used to pH balance it, returning to a healthy squeaky-feel. All deteriorated finishes is removed at this stage while the leather has a higher tolerance of strength and the finishes has the lowest tolerance for easier removal without hurting the leather crust. Physical removal is done with help of Razor-60 or equivalent and appropriate sandpaper.
2 – Leather Rejuvenation
During the above preparation process all darkening effect areas where the leather becomes absorbent is recommended to be rejuvenated to return the leather suppleness with softness and strength when dry. This process prevents the leather from cracking from too dry (below 7% moisture content while a higher fatliquor moisture content up to 14% returns to the original tannery level with higher softness and strength).
3 – Repairs:
Repairs are done when the leather is dry according to the severity of damages and from pictures Adhesor-73 may suffice.
4 - Dry Preparation:
Dry preparation is done with sanding with 1500/2000grit and any roughness is repair accordingly to a smooth surface.
5 – Sealing and Adhesion Promotion:
Adhesor-73 seals the leather and imparts a base for further color coating against untimely peeling or delamination from wear. Color may be added to Adhesor-73 to repairing areas to prevent artificial over building-up of finishes.
6 – Matching color Micro-54 is mixed with up to 10% Thickener-48 for flow control and apply between dry coating until satisfaction.
7 – Matching luster clear topcoat MicroTop-54S (satin) or G (gloss) or M (matte) seals the color for better strength from normal use and from cleaning.
8 – Protector-B+ or B impart a buttery feel to ease away friction rubs that wears those edges, thus prolongs the beauty of appearance.
>>> what products I will need?
Here is the recommended Kit-Sa7.cl
Attachment 4662
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/leather...finishing-kit/
Leather Doctor® Kit Sa7.cl, micro-pigmented leather color refinishing kit is design for a holistic restoration approach to not only the finishes but also rejuvenating the leather for suppleness. Most of these repairs may range from missing finishes to abrading damages into the leather structure. Some expose areas may be contaminated with foreign soiling that includes conditioners, protectors, body oil, grease and sweat or alkaline overexposure from cleaners. A comprehensive repair for a long-term lasting solution will require a holistic approach to deal with both the exposed structure and surface finishes. The practical and functional softness and strength of the leather depends on the health of the structure with average thickness between 0.9 to 1.2mm from stiffness and cracking. The aesthetic aspect of the leather finishes averages 0.02mm (or 20 micron) in thickness for practical compressing and flexing from cracking. A leather-safe restoration system begins by stripping with Stripper-2.3 and rinsing with Rinse-3.0. Degreasing with Degreaser-2.2 follows with Acidifier-2.0. The suffix numbers of these four products denotes it pH value for recharging the protein fiber ionic positive besides the act of decontamination. The leather integrity is revitalizes once the ionic attraction between the positive protein fiber and its negative leather constituents like the tanning agent and fatliquor (fat, oil and water) is initiated. Leather rejuvenating system for softness and strength is accomplishes with Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0. Surface uneven absorption is seals with Adhesor-73 to reduce the need for color over-coating thus increase its flexibility and stretchability from premature cracking. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant surface with a buttery feel, reduces noises that translate into less friction wear. As the leather surface is well lubricated it reduces compression when comes to heavy body contact thus reduces compressed creases and wrinkles.
Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
Note that the primary option White that comes with the kit may not be an exact match to this wallet. Can’t tell until the bag is thoroughly clean or compare hidden areas with the primary white. Most White are further tinted with Ochre color and shaded with Black color. Commonly, these extra combined colors together do not take more than 5% by weight. That is standard white may need extra care for maintaining it “white”.
Should I just wait to get the exact color touch up after I clean it? I don't really know what to do because I need the kit before I can clean it.
>>> Should I just wait to get the exact color touch up after I clean it? I don't really know what to do because I need the kit before I can clean it.
The original color may be determined from unused or unexposed areas – look around for a comparison.
By placing a white and black color for contrast on the color will also help determine its whiteness.
Any way if the entire wallet is to be re-colored, it makes no difference what color is the end result as long as you like it.
White has a tendency to yellow, especially when we see around our kitchen and white plastic turns yellow quite easily. True with leather as well that is why they tint and shade it. Remember that after the color coating, there is still the topcoat and routinely you would have Protector-B+. The whiteness may be compromise a little bit. You decide . . .
I see. Then I'll redye it to steel gray. thxQuote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
Remember that any scratches will reveal the original color just like the existing white when abraded shows the greyish-blue chrome-tanned color.
Gray is a mix of white and black.
Start with 1 drop of black into 9 drops of white – that will be Gray Scale 1.
2 drops to black into 8 drops of white – that will be Gray Scale 2 and so on.
1 drop of ochre into your 19drops of Steel Gray will add a touch of warm to the cold steel.
I will send you plastic cup and plastic pipette together with your colors.