Louis Vuitton – Tivoli PM – Preowned

Very much looking forward to the Kit-V7 arrival.
The decision to purchase was made after browsing some of your forum posts.
I’ve been sifting through visited links on the forum looking for the post I found so helpful,
but haven’t found it yet.
In the post you mentioned that an inexperienced person could use this kit if they followed your instructions.

Any instructions or possibly a link (or links) to forum posts that you recommend for this project would be hugely appreciated.
The bag is a preowned Louis Vuitton Tivoli PM with uneven vachetta that has had baby wipes, magic eraser, Apple cleaner/conditioner, and saddle soap known to be used on it, as well as has very dark handles assumed to be from sweat, body oils, and/or lotions.

Thank you again for your wealth of knowledge in the forum and for any guidance you can offer on utilizing this kit!

#0054
Attachment 4966
Handles with darkening and cracking:



#0055
Attachment 4967



#0057
Attachment 4968



#0058
Attachment 4969



#0065
Attachment 4970



#0059
Attachment 4971
Vachetta trim with darkening, uneven staining, and cracking:



#0061
Attachment 4972



#0062
Attachment 4973



#0063
Attachment 4974
Vachetta piping wear damage:



#0064
Attachment 4975

In what sequence should I use my V7 kit for this bag?

Anxious to get started! Thanks in advance!

>>> The bag is a preowned Louis Vuitton Tivoli PM with uneven vachetta.

Vachetta leather derives its popular brownish range of color from the tannin found in vegetable matter such as tree bark.
Its exact shade depends on the mix of the tanning agent and the color of the skin.
It is popularly made into luggage including trimmings of Louis Vuitton handbags.
This leather is left unfinished or naked; therefore, it is susceptible to body oil, grease, sweat, water and other liquid stain.
It is more pH sensitive than most leather types thus the common sweat and cleaning products alkaline overexposure darkens and denatures the leather and eventually cracks when flexed.
The higher the pH value the darker the stain will appears and the leather denaturing accelerated from reddish to brownish.
On the reverse the lower the pH value of the leather-safe products used the lighter it becomes to a limit.
As leather is a protein like egg when over its tolerance threshold it is quite impossible to un-cook it.
Sunlight will cause the natural leather to darken in shade or suntanned, just like our skin; unlike aniline dyes that fades, however rectifiable with Vachetta-2.8 to a certain extent from the varieties of Vachetta.


>>> that has had baby wipes,

Typically they are alkaline, check the pH value of the baby wipes only safe within 3 to 5 range – otherwise it denatures the leather and need to pH balanced timely to stop the denaturing reaction.


>>> magic eraser,

Good as a super fine sandpaper, but not as a cleaning device.
The leather grain becomes more coarse and open thus affects the appearance both in staining problem and light refraction or reflection.
Surprising it has an alkaline pH as well that cause a burning sensation to the pH sensitive leather.


>>> Apple cleaner/conditioner,

These products does a good job damaging Vachetta leathers – with its high alkaline contents that deliver a skin burning appearance and ugly residue.


>>> and saddle soap known to be used on it,

The worst product to be used on Vachetta – very high alkaline content that delivers a skin burning appearance and soap scum that attracts dirt like magnets.


>>> as well as has very dark handles assumed to be from sweat, body oils, and/or lotions.

1 - Body oils and greases do no harm to the leather but resulted in unsightly darkening effect with neglect.
2 - Sweat is the worst culprit as it contains uric acid that when ferments turns alkaline and ammonia like smell pH value would reach 10 – bad for vachetta leathers as it denatures – turning it tacky or slimy when wet is a clear sign.
3 – Most lotion will darkens the leather like oil and grease.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant / Practitioner
[email protected]

Would you suggest attempting to use the V7 kit or is this bag too damaged?

>>> Would you suggest attempting to use the V7 kit or is this bag too damaged?

I will go through the pictures and assess the possibility…


>>> #0054 - Handles with darkening and cracking:

1 - This picture shows edging damages that need to be refinished with custom matching pigmented color repairing system.
2 – The darkening of the edges can be restored by physical removing the soiling first follow up with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0.


>>> #0057

3 – Micro cracking appearance can be improved from degreasing accumulated soiling and the gaps closing with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system.
4 – The lighter color among the darkening color shows worn grain and may feel rough when dry.
Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system after degreasing will improve appearance.


>>> #0058

The general darkening appearance can be improve with Eraser-4 as the traction pull sticky soiling the grain.


>>> #0065

The edging is of the same color as the vachetta, but picture #0054 shows too reddish may be a better color repair option.
Again all dark edges is first work out with Eraser-4.

Tips:
Roughness of feel could be improved with Protector-D as the final touch.
This is what I see for the handles and the solution to it.
Any tackiness is rectified with Acidifier-2.0 until the leather returns back to a healthy squeaky feel.


>>> #0062
All other fabric and simulated leather material is first clean before cleaning the Vachetta trims.


>>> #0059
All the lighter color micro cracking shows the leather is very dry or percentages of fatliquor have diminishes.
Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system after degreasing helps even out appearance.


>>> #0061
The discoloration will improve after the final treatment with Vachetta-2.8
The complete sequence is as follows:
1 – Eraser-4
2 – Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system (while damp continue with 3).
3 – Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 (when dry continue with 4)
4 – Vachetta-2.8 (saturate and wait until dry to see result from edge to edge)
5 – Protector-D.

If you like I can go into the details of the above 5 steps.


>>> #0063 & #0064 Vachetta piping wear damage:
Leave it naturally as above 1 to 5 steps.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
[email protected]

>>> I'm looking for step by step instructions to do these steps and use all items, including the tools, that are in the V7 kit I purchased. I am hoping to start this project today. Thank you so much, Roger!

Here is a brief description of Kit-V7
Attachment 5008
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/leather...ther-care-kit/
Leather Doctor® Kit V7 design for the care of Louis Vuitton (LV) bags is a combination problem solving kit that is an upgrade from Kit V6 with an addition of Protector-B+ for the simulated leather to impart a non-stick rub-resistant buttery-feel with a classic leather scent. Common stains encounter in the course of vachetta leathers lifetime includes the darkening effect from neglected body oil, grease and sweat contact, the occasion ink and dye transfer, and the browning from liquid and sun tanning seasoning effect just like our skin. The protein leather fiber is an ionic positive (+ve) “amphoteric” material thus pH sensitive to influence by alkaline solution shifting ionic negative (-ve), even water with a pH of 7 often discolors or browns it. Its other non-amphoteric leather constituents like the tanning agent and the fatliquor remains ionic negative (-ve), hence just like a magnet – “like poles repel”, breaking of the hydrogen bond between them, the leather denatures and in extreme cases revert to rawhide. This adverse contamination is rectify by Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system, both to simultaneously degrease and protonate the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) to its pH chemistry integrity. Ballpoint, printing ink, dye transfer, gum, sticky substance and accumulated soiling will require the penetrating, lubricating and suspending power of Prep-4.4 follows with Clean-3.8 to remove the sticky residue and Rinse-3.0 to a healthy squeaky feel. Browning from liquid stain or sun tanning is eliminated or reduced by chemical reaction from Vachetta-2.8 when dry. The above describe the three common class of stain removal. Leather rejuvenating mandatory sequence follows to soften and strength the leather from stiffness that may leads to cracking when flexed. Among leather finishes type, vachetta leathers is the most fatliquor (emulsified fat, oil and water) thirsty and will require more fatliquor to soften it then chrome-tanned leathers. In order to lubricate each fibril within the leather structure behaving like millions of interconnecting hinges the fat and oil has to be hydrogen bonded to the fibrils. This is accomplished by preconditioning the leather structure with Hydrator-3.3 effectively prior to faliquor replenishing it with Fatliquor-5.0 in between drying cycle until fully saturated. Natural slow drying in between application produces softer leather. Protecting the leather with Protector-D reduces wear to the grain of the leather, conceal scuff with its healing properties that also allows transpiration to take place or breaths naturally. Note that the mentioned products suffix numbers denotes its pH value in this holistic approach to removing the common problems associated with vachetta leathers.

Recommended sequence of procedure for restorative cleaning:

A - Dry Soil Removal:
A1 - Eraser-4 is used for the entire bag to remove sticky residue if any.

B: Zip and Simulated leathers is to be done first and leave the vachetta to be done last.
B1 – Prep-4.4 is applied evenly with foam brush stressing on heavy soiling areas and work with horsehair Brush-1 for soft agitation and Eraser-4 for more traction to remove sticky soiling. Prep-4.4 is left to dwell for more effective penetration, lubrication and suspension of the accumulated soiling.
B2 – Before Prep-4.4 completely dries Clean-3.8 is sprayed or transfer to the foam brush and remove the sticky Prep-4.4 residue.
B3 – Rinse-3.0 rinse off Clean-3.8 to a squeaky feel.
B4 – Otherwise Acidifier-2.0 is used further as rinse to achieve a healthy squeaky feel to the hand.
B5 – The trims are left to completely dry.
B6 – Protector-B+ is applied and may be transfer to one of the lint free towel and wipe over for better control and avoid overspray.

C: Vachetta Restorative Cleaning:
C1 – Degreaser-2.2 (shake very well to gel prior to use) is transfer and applied by horsehair Brush-1 for better control and is work in conjunction with Eraser-4 for better traction on heavily soiled areas. Note that as most of the stains are penetrated, so to reach to the bottom of such stains the Degreaser-2.2 has to get there too, by a heavy saturation.
C2 – Acidifier-2.0 is used for surface rinsing and pH balanced the leather from tackiness or sliminess simultaneously.
C3 – Hydrator-3.3 helps for deeper colloidal or soiling particulates movement within the inter-fibrillary spaces to resurface and this is further saturated until a little moisture ooze when gently pressed between fingers and thumb. The saturated leather may be cling wrapped with plastic food wrapper up to 72hrs to moves the soiling particulates to the surface. In conjunction the Towel-T5 is used as reverse transfer and is stretch tightly without airspace and let the moisture wick through it trapping all the soiling particulates as it pass through, instead of still remaining on the leather surface without this ‘reverse transfer’ technique. This will leave the leather crispy dry and should be handle with extreme care as it is empty of fatliquor and is prone to cracking. Removes the towel carefully and use Eraser-4 to work over to remove existing soiling. This process may repeat depends on the severity of penetrated soiling as more succession of suspended trapped soiling will require more Hydrator-3.3 to bring to surface.
Only with satisfaction and erased with Eraser-4 that the leather goes into the next process of fatliquoring. The leather is again hydrated as a precondition for fatliquoring to help in the even distribution of the fatliquor with the leather structure. Note that Hydrator-3.3 has its many function and what mention is only two, help moves soiling particulates to the surface and used as a preconditioner for Fatliquor-5.0
C5 – Vachetta-2.8 is used to correct blotchy appearance or excessive sun tanned appearance. Vachetta-2.8 is applied either sprayed or used one of the Towel-T5 for indirect application with better control. An even appearance form browning and sun tanning improves and may be repeated to satisfaction. When grease stains and browning discoloration is work to satisfaction, final process is to soften it to prevent cracking from normal used.

C6 – Hydrator-3.3 is used as preconditioner for Fatliquor-5.0 to check for even appearance prior to fatliquoring.

C7 – Fatliquor-50 is essential to soften the leather with suppleness when dry preventing from premature ageing that leads to cracks.
Often question asked is how much is enough? The total percentage in weight should increase when the leather dries, assuming the fatliquor moisture measured with a leather moisture meter or wood moisture meter is 4%. After a complete fatliquor repeats application it should increase to 14%.
Note the higher the percentage the fatliquor content is the less absorbent the leather becomes, thus will absorb less body oil, grease and sweat. And since vachetta leather should be naked or unfinished and as natural as it could be is increase the fatliquor moisture percentage. Note more will also intensifies the color intensity.

C8 – Protector-D imparts a soiling barrier and heals some of the surface damages.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
[email protected]

Thank you so much for these steps!