Aniline Leather sectional

I just picked this sectional up today. It's a taupe color and in need of some loving. Overall it's good condition except for a couple of the seat cushions. It appears to be soiled and dirty. I did the water test and it does soak in quickly on most of the leather except where the leather wasn't exposed. I do not know the type of stains. The other seat cushions just have slight stains. I mainly want to restore the two seat cushions and remove the small stains on the other seat cushions. There are surface scratches on the other cushion. This aniline leather does not appear to be any type of wax finish. I also dont see any major fading. What would I need? The last picture is when they were setup before I picked them up.

For the most part the leather is real soft and supple except for the seat cushions, especially the two soiled seat cushions. Getting it back to "New Look" isn't necessary but the scratches and the soiled seat stand out.

I have some Leather Master Soft cleaner and used it to clean the one seat cushion. Since the leather has no topcoat the cleaner did wick some I'm assuming dirt which I used another towel to wipe. The leather is now a little harder and a little darker. As you can see I didn't clean the right side of it. Looks like I need the Degreaser and Rinse 3.0 to start off and Hydrator 3.3> Fatliqour 5.0> Hydrator 3.3. And some topcoat .

This leather is identified as Aniline (A.fs) Full Sauvage:

General Description of Aniline leathers:
Aniline leather is soft and natural. They are usually first treated with transparent dyestuff to make the grain and natural characteristics more visible. Modern tannery dyeing is done in a rotating drum in a continuous process follows with fatliquoring. When dried thereafter, the leather goes through another selection or grading to decide the best treatment to bring out their potential softness and natural look. Thus, further sub-divide into various varieties. However, the bulk of aniline leathers after dyeing may reveal uneven grain dye absorbency and too many faults, so that the variation in color over the entire grain surface is too great for many leather fabrications.

Varieties of aniline leathers may be referred to as “full sauvage aniline” with differing intensity of dye absorbency appearance.

Use this Aniline (A.fs) Full Sauvage as reference guide when comes to cleaning and restoration. Identify the problem from the left column and the top row the product recommended and the numbers denotes the sequence of steps. When leather have compound issue combine the soiling, stain and odor types as the cleaning phase-1 and the leather rejuvenating with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 as the second phase-2. Structural problem as third phase-3, Finishing as phase-4 and protection of the finishes as phase-5.

Stains Identification:

Appearance - Stain identification by appearance will show whether it the characteristic of a spill, rub-on, penetrated or deposited. It may also reveal dye or finishes damages cause by the stain.

Odor - Stain identification by smell can be very helpful in positive identification. Some of the more common odor may be moldy, smoke, putrid or ammonic from urine.

Color - Stain identification by color will also give a clue to the staining material. If the stain is red, it could be beverages, nail polish, lipstick, blood, or some other things. Color identification may not necessary be right; with time, a red bloodstain may turn to a stain that is tan to black. The color of the leather may mesmerize or alter the color of the stain.

Feel of Hand - Stain identification by feel of hand may help determine the stain types. For instance, if it is sticky and red it could be candy, beverages or other things that have sugar in them. If the stain is brittle and stiff, it may be nail polish, shellac or paint. If it smears, it may have grease base to it, such as lipstick.

Location - Stain identification by location may give a clue as to the makeup of the staining substance. If it is dark at the headrest or the edge of the armrest, it is most likely stain by body oil, grease and perspiration by hand or by head.

Buildup or Absorbed - A stain may take several appearances. The stain may be lying on top of the leather (buildup) on most pigmented leather or absorbed into the leather on most unfinished, aniline and nubuck leathers. Naturally, it could also be a combination of absorbed and built up. If it has been absorbed, this will be an indication that it was a liquid when it penetrates the leather. It should also alert us that it may have chemically changed the dye of the leather. An example of this would be a perspiration stain that has reacted with the leather dye and changed it in some way. This would occur more likely on dyed absorbent leathers. The perspiration could also have weakened the fibers of the leather. In any event, this leather may show a marked color change in that area after spotting, and possibly after cleaning. Examples of built up stains are paint and some foodstuff, etc. Examples of absorbed stains are beverages, wine, tea, coffee, etc. A combination stain may be lipstick, ink, mustard, etc. it will have part of its staining matter absorbed into the leather and part of it accumulated on the surface. A stain may also be a substance that has wet solvent-soluble and dry solvent-soluble components combined. An example of this would be gravy which contains grease, flour (from plant), and milk (from an animal). Paint type stains are readily detected because of their stiff nature and generally bright colors and they seem to be sitting on top of the leather. When identifying stains always try to a determine whether they are of a protein, cellulose, oil based, or a colloidal make-up nature. Three common types of soiling or stain are solvent-soluble, water-soluble and insoluble. Stains are frequently of a combination nature, and in most instances, there will be no information from the customer regarding the stain especially if they are bought used.

Attachment 6544

>>> It appears to be soiled and dirty. I do not know the type of stains. The other seat cushions just have slight stains. I mainly want to restore the two seat cushions and remove the small stains on the other seat cushions. I did the water test and it does soak in quickly on most of the leather except where the leather wasn't exposed.

When water test shows leather becomes absorbent, then most of the stains are penetrated. There are also groups of stains that will response to the appropriate treatment system. The first group to use would be the Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system. Body oil, grease and sweat are suspended with the degreaser and with a pH of 2.2 it controls the other leather constituents like the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. When tanning agent leaches out the leather denatures and becomes tacky. Bleeding is the destabilizing of the dyestuff and drying with stiffness is the leaching out of the fatliquor. The Acidifier-2.0 is used as surface rinse to stabilize the pH chemistry integrity of the leather from denaturing. The Hydrator-3.3 is for moving the stains from below surface and during the wicking process towel T-5 is used to trap the soiling through rather than still remaining on the surface to be peel off when completely dry. This is the sequence of stain removal process and the type of soiling with relevant products system is repeated until the stain are totally released to satisfaction.

>>> The leather is now a little harder and a little darker.

The second phase is to rejuvenate the leather for suppleness that prevents premature cracking with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.


>>> There are surface scratches on the other cushion. This aniline leather does not appear to be any type of wax finish. I also don’t see any major fading.

Repairs if any comes next. All white scratches are topcoat damages and using AnilineTop-76G will eliminate most. Existing worn grains may be rectified with Aniline-76 Clear. (as dyestuff is most cases are reactivated with Hydrator-3.3). And Protector-B or B+ (leather scented) will reduce wear to the finishes with a soft buttery-feel plus a non-stick effect.

Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

Thanks, so I would just need for now the A5.dr Leather Degreaser Kit. I also will be ordering one quart each of the Hydrater and Fatliqour.

That is to assume that the stain are only from body oil, grease and sweat, the Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 works.

How will I know if I need AnilineTop-76G on the seat cushions? I just need to make sure I have everything I need when I start the project. I will also be doing my other couch set in another thread that needs to be stripped.

>>> How will I know if I need AnilineTop-76G on the seat cushions?

Always start with the gloss version to maximize durability.

Topcoat white scratch repairs is with the Gloss version to maximize color amplification and magnification.

Adjustment to the satin luster is with AnilineTop-76S.

Hear are more closeup of the seat cushion. Also, the suede is shown.

>>> I have some Leather Master Soft cleaner and used it to clean the one seat cushion. Since the leather has no topcoat the cleaner did wick some I'm assuming dirt which I used another towel to wipe. The leather is now a little harder and a little darker. As you can see I didn't clean the right side of it. Looks like I need the Degreaser and Rinse 3.0 to start off and Hydrator 3.3> Fatliqour 5.0> Hydrator 3.3. And some topcoat .

When accumulated soiling is evident the recommended procedure is as follows:
A – “Dry Soil Removal”
Use Eraser-4

B – “Degreasing Body Oil, Grease and Sweat”
Use Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system (Acidifier-2.0 for surface towel extraction and Hydrator-3.3 to wick up suspended soiling from within the leather structure)

C – “Leather Rejuvenating”
Use Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system to rejuvenate both the color intensity and leather suppleness.

D – “Dry Prep”
Use Eraser-4 to removed wick up soiling particulates.

E – “Topcoat Refinishing”
Use AnilineTop-76G

F – “Non-stick & Rub-Resistant Protection”
Use either Protector-B or Protector-B+ as the final application.

Tips: Aniline-76 dyestuff optional either after “Dry Prep” or after Topcoat that needs to be re-Topcoat.

Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

>>> Hear are more closeup of the seat cushion. Also, the suede is shown.

When stains are shown from the reverse suede side. It is recommend to clean the stain from the suede side to avoid grain damages if clean from the grain side. Products used for the suede side is the same, however tools used for the smooth grain side is change to suede Brush-2 and suede Eraser-5.

The darkening effect on the left side cushion is work out with Eraser-4 to erase the wick-up soiling particulates.

Further movement of deeper suspended soiling particulates is perform with Hydrator-3.3 using the proven "Reverse Technique" with the help of towel T-5.

The other cushions don't need any degreasing treatment. Should I start with the Clean 3.8>Rinse3.0 and then do the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system? I did not order any other cleaner. I only have the Prep 4.4 coming in with the Wax pull up kit.

The other seat cushions look like they just need some cleaning and the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system to bring some color back and maybe a topcoat then protector. What do you think?

>>> The other cushions don't need any degreasing treatment. Should I start with the Clean 3.8>Rinse3.0 and then do the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system? I did not order any other cleaner. I only have the Prep 4.4 coming in with the Wax pull up kit.

Refer to the Aniline (A.fs) Full Sauvage row #3 Soiling Type Light for Routine Maintenance. For a refinishing besides “Degreasing”,
“Restorative Cleaning” is recommended – see row #6 – Prep-4.4 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 prior to leather rejuvenating it.

>>> and maybe a topcoat

Here is an example of "wet shaving" topcoat during Hydrator-3.3 and "dry shaving" after Fatliquor-5.0 with "Razor-60" prior to AnilineTop-76G refinishing. (Aniline-76 Clear brings the color intensity back naturally as an option prior to topcoating it.

Attachment 6668
#1 Damaged Topcoat from Body Oil, Grease & Sweat.

Attachment 6669
#2 Wet Shaving of Topcoat during Hydrator-3.3

Attachment 6670
#3 Dry Shaving of Topcoat after Fatliquor-5.0

Attachment 6671
#4 Topcoat Refinishing

This is after Clean3.8 and rinse, Hydrator>Fatliquor>Hydrator. It definitely bought back most of the color but there are a few spots of stains that didn't come out. I don't have the Eraser4 yet.. Here is a picture of one that has been done and the other that hasn't been done side by side. Anything else I can do with this cushion before finishing it? The black scuff marks seemed to be more pronounce now but I may not worry about those too much.

How do I proceed with this cushion, this is from picture one and a few others. The only thing I did was agitate with Clean3.8 and the rinse. I then Hydrated for 48hrs with plastic wrapped around it. I have not used degreaser but I can see I may have to and also the grain is damaged. I need to sand off the rest of the damaged topcoat and fix the damaged grain. What is the step by step procedure to repair this?

Looks like the soil I'm seeing is at the surface and needs Eraser4. The rough, gritty feel seems to be from mainly the damaged topcoat but I'm sure it from grain damage as well.

>>>This is after Clean3.8 and rinse, Hydrator>Fatliquor>Hydrator. It definitely bought back most of the color but there are a few spots of stains that didn't come out. I don't have the Eraser4 yet.. Here is a picture of one that has been done and the other that hasn't been done side by side. Anything else I can do with this cushion before finishing it? The black scuff marks seemed to be more pronounce now but I may not worry about those too much.

Release penetrated stains wicks to the surface as the water contents bring it to the surface and there are 2 methods to removed them off the leather surface.

1- “Reverse-Transfer” technique is by placing Towel-5 as an extension of the leather surface and as the soiling particulates moves or wicks up it pass through the Towel-5 instead of still remaining on the surface and this process can be repeated until the towel shows clean in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3.
2- Any residue that remains on the surface is “Erased” off using Eraser-5.

See this example for a “reverse-transfer” technique:
http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...-from-dog-peed

>>> How do I proceed with this cushion, this is from picture one and a few others. The only thing I did was agitate with Clean3.8 and the rinse.

Clean-3.8 and Rinse-3.0 combination is only recommended for “Light (Routine Maintenance)” as you can see from the above Leather Problem solving Matrix. This is a body contact location and the most appropriate product used is Degreasere-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system as see on row #6 above Matrix.


>>> I then Hydrated for 48hrs

The Hydrator-3.3 48hrs to 72hrs dwell has to be repeated after Degreasere-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0.


>>> with plastic wrapped around it.

Plastic wrapped is for control evaporation.
To reverse transfer the soiling particulates Towel-5 is used, so that the soiling is “peel-off” and the remaining is “erased-off’ the surface of the leather.


>>> I have not used degreaser but I can see I may have to

All body oil, grease and sweat stains will need this product system.


>>> and also the grain is damaged.

The grain can be repair depending on the extend of the restoration.
1. The lightest repair is with AnilineTop-76G.
2. Medium repair is with Adhesor-73 – not that it will take on a darkening effect.
3. Heavy repair is with Bond-3D – the repairs looks like natural scars with a darkening effect

Note:
Darkening effect is not correctable with aniline system.
It only is block off with pigment such as Micro-54 and becomes downgraded into “semi-aniline”.

>>>I need to sand off the rest of the damaged topcoat and fix the damaged grain.

Sanding is one option, “shaving” is another after Hydrator-3.3 while the leather is hydrated strong the finishes becomes weak and easier to remove.

I am having the toughest time removing this soil. I went back and degrease/acidifier and hydrated covered with tissue and wrapped it for about 72 hours. How do I remove this soil encrustation? I'm waiting on my Eraser4 but do I dry erase it or wet erase it?
#1
Attachment 6699


#2
Attachment 6700


#3
Attachment 6701


It's crispy
#4
Attachment 6702

>>> I am having the toughest time removing this soil. I went back and degrease/acidifier and hydrated covered with tissue and wrapped it for about 72 hours.

Like to know if you are working WITHOUT the cushion - Yes?

Do you have pictures what “tissue” (any tissue or with Towel-5) you used and how was it wrapped?


>>> How do I remove this soil encrustation?

Any surface encrustation is removed by shaving off with Razor-60 with examples given above Post #17.


>>> I'm waiting on my Eraser4 but do I dry erase it or wet erase it?

Both wet and dry. Eraser-4 is work during the Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 wet processing and after crispy dry to remove wick-up soiling particulates.


>>> It’s crispy

To supple up the leather after restorative or corrective cleaning the next phase is to rejuvenate it with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.

For your readings. . .

Leather Doctor Hydrator-3.3 is a waterbased pH 3.3 leather-safe hydrator. It is a fatliquor preconditioner with multi functional abilities. Surface application is primary to check for even surface tension free of blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. Structural application will require saturating to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. This universal Hydrator-3.3 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.

The multi functional abilities include:

a) To check for surface tension for an even appearance free from blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing.

b) To plumps, relaxes and separates crushed, shrunk and stick together fibrils for manipulating away-unwanted creases and wrinkles.

c) To clean the leather of structural foreign contamination, the plump and limp leather is squeeze with towel laid between the leather and a smooth spatula or equivalent.

d) To rectify alkaline overexposure areas by facilitating colloidal water movement to redistribute the leather constituents from surrounding areas.

e) To activate the dormant dyestuff within the leather structure for color refreshing.

f) To facilitates colloidal water movement within the inter-fibrillary spaces for wicking foreign soiling particulates to resurface.

g) To stabilize, pH balance and charge the protein fiber below its iso-electric point (pI) ionic positive to hydrogen bond with the ionic negative fatliquor more effectively.

Instruction:

A. Surface Tension Inspection:

A1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 evenly and wipe with lint free towel to free of surface tension for an even appearance prior to fatliquor replenishing.

B. Stiffness, Creases and Wrinkles:

B1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.

B2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72hrs for softness.

B3. Manipulate by stretching and cross flexing to relax the leather to satisfaction prior to fatliquor replenishing.

B4. With satisfaction the Fatliquor-5.0 has to be immediately replenished while the leather is perhaps at 25% Hydrator-3.3 moisture level.

C. Cleaning:

C1). A combination of cleaning while saturating the leather is done with horsehair Brush-1 on the surface and towel extracting it. Deep cleaning beneath the surface from the leather structure for liquid stain is done with squeezing the leather with a smooth spatula with a towel in between to reduce abrasion and absorbing the foreign contamination – See F below

D. Rectify Alkaline Overexposure:

D1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.

D2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell for redistributing of the leather constituents from surrounding area.

D3. Observe for appearance and test by finger for tactile squeaky feel prior to fatliquor replenishing.

E. Activating Dormant Dyestuff to Resurface:

E1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.

E2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for excess dyestuff to resurface.

E3. Remove plastic cover and let it natural dry to observe color improvement prior to fatliquor replenishing.

F. Removing Penetrated Stains:

F1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.

F2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for foreign soiling particulates to resurface.

F3. Remove plastic wrapping, replace with tissue paper without airspace to trap stains as it dries instead of remaining on the surface. Recommend that Fatliquor-5.0 is replenished in combination at this stage especially if the leather has already show signs of cracking.

F4. Peel tissue paper when crispy dry and erase with Eraser-4 or Eraser-5 for suede accordingly prior to fatliquor replenishing.


Leather Doctor Fatliquor-5.0 is an anionic negative (-ve) charged micro emulsion of fat, oil and water for rejuvenating all leather types. It is typically used in conjunction after Hydrator-3.3 relaxing and opening up the fibrous leather structure. It softens the leather when dry with stretchability, compressibility and flexibility, while enhancing its rip tensile strength greatly. It is for replenishing the original fat and oil that diminishes thru sun bleaching, ageing, heat and alkaline overexposure or cleaning. On application, the water-encased molecule breaks free when ionic attraction takes place between the fat and oil with the leather protein fiber. The excess free water content wicks out leaving a breathing space behind for leather natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness from easily collapsing into creases and wrinkles during stress or flex, while the oil lubricates the fibers so that they slide over one another smoothly like millions of inter-connecting hinges. Thus helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing. This universal Fatliquor-5.0 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.

The quantities of fatliquor (fat and oil) contents retained in the leather after an universal tannery fatliquoring process may varies up to 14% depending on the leather types and it usage. This percentage drops as the fat and oil content diminishes or leaches through ageing, water, heat or chemical overexposure.

Leather rejuvenating or fatliquor replenishing is base on weight of the leather in relation to the percentage of remaining fatliquor. A simple calculation of percentage of fatliquor topping up requirement would be as follows:

If the weight of the leather in question is 100gm and fatliquor (fat and oil) content meter reading is less than 1%.

By applying 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to it will deliver an end result incremental of 13.3% fatliquor when dry as the 66.6% water contents evaporates.

In the leather rejuvenating Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system, Hydrator-3.3 plays an important role by relaxing, opening up the inter-fibrillary spaces, facilitating and redistributing colloidal water movement, protonating and doing all the pre-conditioning work prior to fatliquoring including cleaning up any excess surface remnants to have a sticky-free surface. In practice with severe dryness the ratio for Hydrator-3.3 is 2 to 1 of Fatliquor-5.0.

It works out to be approximately 160gm of Hydrator-3.3 plus 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to replenish a 100gm dry leather from less than 1% back to the original tannery up to 14% - 16% fatliquor content.

Instruction:

1 Warm-up and shake well to a full emulsion for better penetration.

2 Apply Fatliquor-5.0 and redistribute with foam brush until saturation.

3 Repeat applications each time water contents evaporate until fully saturated.

4 Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with Hydrator-3.3.

5 Allow natural drying for extra softness.

6 Suppleness for vegetable-tanned leathers is further stake or massage or flex accordingly with a little wet back with Hydrator-3.3 prior to doing so to prevent cracking from under replenished leather.

Tips:

1 When crispy dry, prior surface contaminations/damages may darkens as soiling particulates resurface.

2 Removes soiling particulates with Eraser-4 for all leathers including nubuck and Eraser-5 for suede.

3 Stretching the darken areas lightly will also lightens the appearance.

Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

Thanks for the reply. Iv'e been working with the cushion in. So I may need the Razor60 to shave off the encrustation? There is no topcoat left except for a couple of spots but when it was hydrated, i was able to take it right off just like you mentioned. I do need to take the topcoat off at the very edge of the cushion where it wasn't exposed. If I got this correct, the Eraser 4 is to remove soil that wicked up to the surface when dry but if it's too hard then I would need the Razor60? I took my fingernail and lightly scraped the crispy leather and it did turn light, that is the reason why I figured the Eraser 4 would be enough to resolve this issue. I am still learning the process and how to use the tools and supplies. I just put in another order for some more supplies and Razor60 isnt in it, can I proceed with dry shaving with eraser4 to remove the surface contamination and then upload the results and go from there?

One last question about the other seats cushions that have some topcoat damages. Do I have to strip the whole topcoat before applying AnilineTopcoat76g or can I just apply it over top. I'm sure it would be best to strip it.

>>> If I got this correct, the Eraser 4 is to remove soil that wicked up to the surface when dry but if it's too hard then I would need the Razor60? I took my fingernail and lightly scraped the crispy leather and it did turn light, that is the reason why I figured the Eraser 4 would be enough to resolve this issue. I am still learning the process and how to use the tools and supplies. I just put in another order for some more supplies and Razor60 isn’t in it, can I proceed with dry shaving with eraser4 to remove the surface contamination and then upload the results and go from there?

Tools that help are Brush-1, Eraser-4, SandGrit1500/2000 & Razor-60. It can be done in any combination that suites the situation best.
Eraser-4 is used both wet and dry for “Erasing”, “Shaving” will need Razor-60 in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3.


>>> Do I have to strip the whole topcoat before applying AnilineTopcoat76g or can I just apply it over top. I'm sure it would be best to strip it.

AnilineTop-76G is a transparent topcoat that will amplify and magnify both the "beauty" and the "ugliness" of existing surface. Best result in any refinishing is done over an even appearance surface to produce an even appearance after result.

Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

This is after I dried Erased the right side of the panel. I will erased the whole cushion but I noticed when I rub the leather it acts a little bit like Nubuck. Should I dry Erased the rest of the cushion or wet Erased? Whats my next step, Hydrate 2.2 and reverse transfer? Waiting on my supplies to come in.

>>> but I noticed when I rub the leather it acts a little bit like Nubuck.

When surface is worn of grain it becomes napped like Nubuck.
Tips: To achieve the lightest appearance repairs would be by AnilineTop-76G alone.
Adhesor-73 repairs would produce a darker appearance and only recommend when color refinishing to camouflage the color intensity is desired.


>>> Should I dry Erased the rest of the cushion or wet Erased?

If you know the purpose of the Eraser-4 is to remove surface soiling both wet and dry.


>>> Whats my next step, Hydrate 2.2 and reverse transfer? Waiting on my supplies to come in.

After soiling removal the next process is leather rejuvenating both for color intensity and suppleness with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system

I'm letting it dwell for 72 hours after wet Erasing it and I'm using the "reverse transfer" method. I'm hoping this gets most of the soil out.

You may glen some useful tips how a "reverse-transfer" technique is executed successfully from this thread:

http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...at-restoration