Printable View
Roger, Can you please explain in detail the best procedure step by step including how much dwell time to remove the toughest oily, perspiration stains from leather? Please include covering with plastic to increase dwell and penetration and length of time. And weather to extract, or poultice the stains out. Most of the time we can only work from the top side of the leather.
Thanks, Chet
>>> Can you please explain in detail the best procedure step by step including how much dwell time to remove the toughest oily, perspiration stains from leather?
In most of toughest body oil, grease and sweat or perspiration contaminated leather commonly on the headrest and armrest. It is the sweat that contains traces of urea that when ferments by the natural bacteria from the atmosphere shifted the pH alkaline and in the presents of ammonia odor, the pH reading may have reach 10. The pH neutral of leather averages 4. pH is calculate in the power of 10 and between 4 and 10, the ionic difference is one million (1’000’000) times. Remember that the main component of leather is the protein fiber and is an amphoteric or pH sensitive material. Any pH value above its iso-electric point, pH neutral or pI will cause to shift the protein fiber ionic negative (-ve). The other leather constituents like the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor are non-amphoteric or non-pH sensitive and remains ionic negative (-ve). Molecular attraction between the leather constituents and the protein fiber behaves just like magnet, like poles repels. When the ionic hydrogen bonding weakens the leather denatures and revert to rawhides. This is the type of situation that we are facing that will further damage the leather with cracking and we want to avoid it.
Lets consider how to handle these toughest oily, perspiration situations.
Is degreasing more important than protonating or pH balancing the pH chemistry integrity of the leather more important.
In order to have a leather-safe degreasing, the pH chemistry of the leather has to be set in place first; otherwise the leather will fall apart when the only objective is just to get the grease out. Cracking damages is typical of having in mind to squeeze out the grease contamination without concerning or minding the pH chemistry of the leather. Squeezing out the unwanted oil and grease will also removes the much need original fatliquor to keep the leather supple. Thus the result of such inconsiderate degreasing result in the leather becoming stiffer and crack appears or accentuated. In all consideration degreasing has to be limited to the water-based Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system type (products suffix denotes its pH value, protonating or pH balancing the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve), degreasing, hydrating and fatliquor replenishing at the same continuous sequence of process) before allowing it to dry. The leather NEVER cracks when done according to the proven leather-safe system.
Any questions so far?
Will continue . . .
Ok, I understand that, but need the Leather safe sequence as detailed as possible, because I though we were following it, but apparently not.
When you have a situation for degreasing and having the products ready I will walk you through.