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The wall of my den got mold and the zebra skin was hanging on it so got mold too. A friend cleaned it with lysol spray. It is totally clean but has been ripped in many places and very very dry. How can I restore it? I live in Toronto. If I get your kit, how do I pay you? Help!
Please show some pictures of the both sides and I will recommend.
Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator / Practitioner / Consultant / Instructor / Coach
I have sent you the pictures. Please help.
Pictures received. . .
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#2
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#3
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#4
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Take a look at this Kit-H7+ and we can discuss further from here . . .
Attachment 5668
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-h7-...ng-repair-kit/
Leather Doctor Kit-H7+ Zebra Hide Rejuvenating & Repair Kit is an upsize version from the Kit-H7 with extra Hydrator-3.3 in 60ml concentrates that becomes 1.64quarts and Fatliquor-5.0 in 250ml concentrates that becomes 1.58quarts. When hide/skin tears it indicates that it is too dry and sufficient fatliquor is essential to revert the weakness. An up to 14% fatliquor (fat and oil) content when dry is highly recommended. Dry bonding repairs to the tear come last in the sequence after cleaning and rejuvenating. Bond-3D is a water-based medium soft polyurethane that bonds with the hide/skin fibers when dries and becomes part of it. Repairs will require close contact until it dries to bond. Reinforcement is either with donor suede fibers taken from surrounding areas or scrap pieces similar to fiberglass repairs techniques for better appearance or simply with Patch-4S for extra strength. Generally repair is done after the hide/skin in rejuvenated with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system. Prior to rejuvenating the hide/skin to soften and strengthen it, dry soil is removed by using suede Brush-3 and Eraser-5 and vacuuming. General cleaning is done with Clean-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0 on the hair/skin side. The hair side is then clean using CleanHair-5.5 follows with RinseHair-4.0. Protector-S+ impart a rub-resistant silky-feel to lubricates the hair from abrasion wear and a non-stick properties to shield the hair from sticky soiling with a classic leather scent to charm. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this leather-safe holistic care system for hair-on-hide.
Instruction:
Suede/Hide/Skin Side Cleaning and Rejuvenating prior to Repair:
Sequence-1: A) Dry Soil Removal: Instruction: A1) Vacuum off foreign soiling with help of suede Brush-3. A2) Exfoliate to renew fresh nap with help of suede Eraser-5 follows with vacuum cleaner. Proceed to Sequence-2.
Sequence-2: B) Wet Soil Removal: Instruction: B1) Apply Clean-3.8 and agitate with Brush-3/Eraser-5 and towel extract until it shows clean. B2) Spray Rinse-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky clean. B3) Let natural drying and wick-up soiling is erased with Eraser-5 prior to hydrating. Proceed to Sequence-3.
Sequence-3: C) Hydrating:Hydrating is to relax the hide/skin of stiffness from diminishing original fatliquor. Fatliquor diminishes as the hide/skin ages, accelerated when expose to direct heat and evaporate as VOC (volatile organic compound). Stiffness is common from a water damage situation too, when fatliquor leaches out, and when it becomes dry again the fibrils becomes stick together. Hydrating is to precondition the hide/skin for fatliquoring; it helps to relax and separate the stick together fibrils and opens up the inter-fibrillary spaces for effective colloidal water movement within the hide/skin structure. It facilitates to wick-up foreign contamination to be towel extracted when damp and erased when crispy dry. It plumps the hide/ skin to ease away the unnatural creases and wrinkles. It stabilizes the pH integrity of the hide/skin and charges the protein fiber ionic positive below its iso-electric point (pI) to hydrogen bond with the ionic negative fatliquor more effectively. It is recommended therefore to hydrate the hide/skin to an optimum level, with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. Prolong dwell time will maximize the effects with the help of covering with clear plastic to prevent evaporation. Instruction: C1) Spray Hydrator-3.3 with foam brush control to hydrate the entire thickness of the hide/skin; extract with dry absorbent white terry towel to inspect for an even appearance without blotchiness and it is ready for immediate fatliquor replenishing. C2) Severe dryness or stiffness will require a longer dwell time of up to 72hours with evaporation control, covering with a clear plastic sheet. When the hide/skin is plump, limp and lay flat extract until towel shows dry or about 25% reading from a moisture meter and immediately proceed to Sequence-4.
Sequence-4: D) Fatliquoring: Fatliquor-5.0 an emulsion of fat and oil originally introduces to the hide/skin to impart its desirous suppleness continues to diminish through evaporation as it ages, accelerated when exposed to heat. It diminishes through leaching as well in a non leather-safe solution, manifest as stiffness when the skin becomes dry again. Replenishing is done with “fatliquor-in-a-bottle” as a spray-on instead of the original immersion method. Fatliquor, the lifeblood of leathers derived from fats, oils and water. Looks like fresh milk, when applies penetrates the leather and hydrogen bond with the hide/skin protein fiber. The fat plumps the skin with fullness, the oil lubricates the individual fibrils and the encasing water breaks free leaving the inter-fibrillary spaces void for natural transpiration. Effective fatliquoring will leave a non-greasy or non-oily surface when dry. Besides softening the skin with flatness, fatliquor enhances its rip tensile strength greatly. It relaxes coarse breaks, creases and wrinkles and prevents cracking. It helps to keep the skin at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing.
Hide/Skin Approximate Quantity or Percentage of Fatliquor:The quantities of fatliquor (fat and oil) contents retained in the hide/skin after an universal modern tannery fatliquoring process may varies up to 14% depending on the leather types and it usage. This percentage drops as the fat and oil content diminishes or leaches through ageing, water, heat or chemical overexposure.Leather rejuvenating or fatliquor replenishing is base on weight of the hide/skin in relation to the percentage of remaining fatliquor. A simple calculation of percentage of fatliquor topping up requirement would be as follows:If the weight of the hide/skin in question is 100gm and fatliquor (fat and oil) content meter reading is less than 1%.By applying 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to it will deliver an end result incremental of 13.3% fatliquor when dry as the 66.6% water contents evaporates.In the hide/skin rejuvenating Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system, Hydrator-3.3 plays an important role by relaxing, opening up the inter-fibrillary spaces, facilitating and redistributing colloidal water movement, protonating and doing all the pre-conditioning work prior to fatliquoring including cleaning up any excess surface remnants to have a sticky-free surface. In practice with severe dryness the ratio for Hydrator-3.3 are 2 to 1 of Fatliquor-5.0.It works out to be approximately 160gm of Hydrator-3.3 plus 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to replenish a 100gm dry leather from less than 1% back to the original tannery up to 14% fatliquor content. Instruction: D1) Spray Fatliquor-5.0, with foam brush control for an even appearance. D2) Repeat application in between drying as the water contents evaporates until it’s saturated. D3) The fully saturated hide/skin is left for slow natural drying for extra softness. D4) Use Eraser-4 to remove wicks up residue and inspect for visual satisfaction.
Sequence-5: E) Fiberglass Technique Repairs: Using donor hide/skin fiber repairs result in better appearance without a noticeable sub-patch. Fibers are scrape from surrounding thicker areas and used as cross laying across tears over the Bond-3D until satisfaction.
Sequence-5: F) Sub-patch Repairs: F1) A half to one inch width on both sides of the tear is cut to shape and the center line is drawn as divider onto the sub-patch. F2) The lower tear side is first bond with the suede side of the patch press and let to dry before bonding the upper side of the tear. F3) Bond the other side and press to let it dry.
Hair Side Cleaning and Conditioning:
Sequence-6: G) Dry Soil Removal: Instruction: G1) Vacuum off foreign soiling with help of suede Brush-3.
Sequence-7: H) Wet Soil Removal:Instruction: H1) Apply CleanHair-5.5, brush along the lay of hair in one direction and towel extract until it shows clean. H2) Spray RinseHair-4.0 and towel extract to a squeaky clean. H3) Let natural drying and dry towel wipe of wick-up soiling.
Sequence-8: I) Non-Stick, Rub-Resistant Protection: Instruction: I1) Shake well, mist spray Protector-S+ evenly and brush-in with towel to pick up soiling at the same time. I2) When dry thereafter groom with suede Brush-3 or a slick comb for best appearance and it is ready for use.
Thank yo for your reply. If you think this kit will save the zebra skin, I would like to get. The skin is already very clean, but if you suggest I clean it further, I will. Please tell me how to get the kit. Also, before it used to hang on the wall. The wall has new drywall and fresh paint. Is it advisable to hang it there again? And how would I do it? It had been nailed to the wall and I would prefer not to nail it again if there is another option.
>>> If you think this kit will save the zebra skin, I would like to get.
The strength of the skin rely on the fatliquor just like our car engine would also need periodic top-up of the engine oil.
Like our car engine oil the fatliquor (fat and oil) from the Zebra skin evaporates through time and about 14% (read from a leather moisture meter or an equivalent wood moisture meter) will return the strength of the hide/skin.
>>> The skin is already very clean, but if you suggest I clean it further, I will.
Zebra hide/skin is ‘amphoteric’ protein material with a pH value of 3 to 5.
Any cleaning solution higher than pH 5 value will weaken the ionic attraction between the hide/skin ionic negative (-ve) constituents (tanning agents and fatliquor) and the ionic positive (+ve) hide/skin fiber structure. As the pH value of any cleaning solution increases above the pH neutral of the hide/skin its ionic positive (+ve) shifts negative (-ve). Thus behaves like magnet like poles repels and the hide/skin denatures or revert back to rawhide. When the hide/skin tears or rips easily, the hide/skin is too dry – the lack of fatliquor (fat and oil). When the hide/skin is sticky or becomes slimmy when wet, the tanning agents has breaks its hydrogen-bonds or ionic attraction. To revert to a stronger ionic attraction a pH value below the hide/skin pH neutral is used like Acidifier-2.0 (pH 2.0) or a cleaning and protonating or pH-balancing product like CleanPro-1.5 (pH 1.5) is used. The stiff or shrunk leathers will need to be relaxed with Hydrator-3.3 (pH 3.3). Thereafter, where the creases and wrinkles are fully relaxed Fatliquor-5.0 (fat and oil emulsion) is used to supple-up the hide/skin when dry with increase tensile tear strength.
>>> Please tell me how to get the kit.
Kit-H7+ starter kit system (refills are available as individual bottles) may be purchased from this link:
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-h7-...ng-repair-kit/
>>> Also, before it used to hang on the wall. The wall has new drywall and fresh paint. Is it advisable to hang it there again? And how would I do it? It had been nailed to the wall and I would prefer not to nail it again if there is another option.
To hang on the wall will depends on the tear strength of the hide/skin and very much will depends on its ability to take in as much fatliquor (fat and oil) average 14% when dry. Otherwise laying on a flat floor would be less stressing to the hide/skin.
>>> It had been nailed to the wall and I would prefer not to nail it again if there is another option.
You may frame it up and hang with the frame. NEVER use glue to the skin/hide side.
I received my kit yesterday and have cleaned and rinsed the zebra skin. Waiting for it to dry and will probably hydrate it tomorrow. There are so many cuts on the skin and only one sub patch. Do you think it is okay to sew the tears once the whole procedure is done? If so, what sort of needle and thread would I need. Also, is hanging it up with velcro recommended?
>>> Waiting for it to dry and will probably hydrate it tomorrow.
Please read the sequence above and ask questions to verify if you are doing it correctly, especially "Instruction C2"
Show some pictures if you are doing correctly.
>>> There are so many cuts on the skin and only one sub patch.
The Bond-3D may be order separately from this link (see instruction as well):
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/bond-3d/
Additional Patch-4S may be order from this link:
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/patch-4s/
>>> Do you think it is okay to sew the tears once the whole procedure is done? If so, what sort of needle and thread would I need. Also, is hanging it up with velcro recommended?
Better decision after the bonding repairs, depending on the strength gain.
>>> I saw your reply after I had finished hydrating. It took me a few hours but I think I did it correctly. The skin is now soft and supple. I have covered it with plastic and will check tomorrow. I don't think there will be excess moisture by tomorrow morning but I will still run a paper cloth over it. I don't have a moisture thermometer so I guess if it is slightly damp to touch, it would be the right time to put the fat liquor. Please let me know if that is incorrect. I meant to take pictures but I got so involved that it slipped my mind. All the dry curling edges are now straightened. The photo was taken after hydration.
Correct to commence the fatliquoring process when you are satisfied with all the dry curling edges are now straightened. A little moisture still left behind helps the fatliquor to distribute better.
How many hours will be the intended dwelling?
Attachment 5752
I checked the skin this afternoon, after 24 hours of hydration and it is still very moist. I have covered it again. I will check it again tomorrow afternoon before deciding to put fatliquor on it. I have to admit that your calculation for amount of necessary hydration liquid was completely correct. I was afraid that it would not be enough so I did the whole skin first very carefully and then found there was enough to do it second time. This time it was becoming milky white but never enough to make it come out when squeezed between fingers. The skin is very moist at the moment.
>>> The skin is very moist at the moment.
You may use a flat squeeze either plastic or metal to flatten the entire from the center to the edges.
After that, cover-up the entire skin/hide with plastic sheet to control evaporation.
Leave it as long as it stays moist - the longer the better even exceed 72hrs (but do not let it completely dry before you apply the Fatliquor-5.0 it will get deeper into the skin/hide fiber structure) thus produce a softer skin/hide.
Remember that during the fatliquor process leave it to very slow natural drying as well.
Please show some good pictures of how the skin is covered.
Any mistake is correct before it is too late.
Attachment 5756
Picture shows 'poor' covering!
Cover it flat without any air spaces.
The air spaces or pocket areas moisture level will be different from those that are in direct contact.
Straighten then up by brushing from the center to the edges or what ever technique most appropriate.
I would cut out the shape of the skin with 6 to 12 inches to the edges for better control of the covering
>>> The skin is moist but I am afraid it might be as moist as it should by tomorrow and tomorrow is a very busy day for me so by the time I get to it, it will be over 72 hours. Should I apply the fat liquor this evening or wait another 24 hours?
Attachment 5757
Longer dwell will produce a softer skin, but not allow to be completely dry (feels damp but towel extract shows dry should be right time to proceed with Fatliquor-5.0
Visit this link for how to post pictures:
http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...30-How-to-Post
I have straightened out the covering and have decided to wait till tomorrow to apply the fatliquor.
Use your feet and work over the skin to smooth out creases and wrinkles, and transfer the moisture of the plastic sheet back into the skin.
Thanks. Will do that.
I talked to you yesterday and at your advice, took off the plastic covering this morning after almost 4 days. I see some bluish spots, like mold. I know mold grows in humidity and I wonder if 4 days of covering it is the cause. It could be dead mold. How do I find out. Is dead mold dangerous, and how can I get rid of it. The skin lies uncovered, still very moist. I have not applied fatliquor on it. Is it even worth keeping the skin at all or was it all a waste of time and money?
Seems a little bit of mold specks on the skin now that I have removed the plastic covering. What shall I do? I don't think I should put fat liquor before cleaning it up completely. Do you suggest a fungicide ? Also, could covering a wet skin for almost 4 days have triggered this again? I have now left the skin uncovered. It is still moist. Could this be dead mold? How would I know the difference and would that be dangerous? Please reply soon.
Attachment 5765
Should I clean the spots with concorbium? It contains sodium bicarbonate, sodium percarbonate and tetra acethyne diamene. Will that upset the ph balance again?
>>> Seems a little bit of mold specks on the skin.
MOLD is the colloquial term applied to a large diverse number of fungal species where their growth result in a moldy appearance on objects, including leather. A layer of fungal growth discolors such objects. Molds are fungi that grow in the form of multi-cellular filaments called hyphae. The hyphae are generally transparent, so the mycelium appears like very fine, fluffy white threads over the surface. The dusty texture of many molds is caused by profuse numbers of asexual spores formed by differentiation at the ends of hyphae. The mode of formation and shape of these spores are traditionally used to classify the mold fungi. Many of these spores are colored, making the fungus much more obvious to the human eye at this stage in its life cycle. Molds cause biodegradation of natural materials like leather. It can then be unwanted as mold-damaged property. Mold requires moisture for growth. Like all fungi, molds derive energy not through photosynthesis but from the organic matter on which they live. Typically, molds secrete enzymes that degrade complex substances into simpler substances, which can be absorbed by the hyphae. Molds reproduce through producing very large numbers of small spores. Mold spores may remain airborne indefinitely or cling to leather and fur. It can survive under extremes of temperature and pressure.
>>> Do you suggest a fungicide?
Leather DoctorŽ KillMold-3.6 recommended. It is a waterbased pH 3.6 leather-safe non-phenol fungicide formulated to kill mold growth. It is for disinfecting and controlling musty odor from mold activities after decontamination cleaning.
KillMold-3.6 http://www.leatherdoctor.com/killmold-3-6/
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>>> I don't think I should put fat liquor before cleaning it up completely.
Fatliquor-5.0 is the last treatment of this wet process (restorative cleaning, fungicide treatment, hydrating and fatliquoring) in this sequence of process. Optional is to treat it after without interrupting the hydrated skin prepared for fatliquoring. All products are water-based and may be used in this case before or after fatliquoring.
>>> The wall of my den got mold and the zebra skin was hanging on it so got mold too. A friend cleaned it with lysol spray. It is totally clean but has been ripped in many places and very very dry.
Your cleaning with Lysol proves non-effective; you will need an industry grade leather-safe fungicide like KillMold-3.6
>>> Also, could covering a wet skin for almost 4 days have triggered this again?
Very possible and likely with 'ineffective products' it will bloom soon again when conditions permits.
>>> Could this be dead mold?
It is possible only a guess (as you are dealing with mold and a friend cleans it initially, he/she should take a look to confirm, not able to confirm with this ‘poor’ pictures.)
>>> How would I know the difference?
You will know if the patches continue to multiply
>>> and would that be dangerous?
I do not think so, all tanneries around the world has mold problem, especially when they are raw before the tanning process. These stacks of mold infested are treated with industrial grade fungicide like Leather DoctorŽ KillMold-3.6.
None of these mold infested skin are thrown away, they just get treated. Many dried food are often mold infested as well, I have eaten plenty of them, after cleaning them off in my earlier childhood. Mold infested ‘blue cheese’ is an example of edible mold. There are a few species that is health threatening of course and that need to be identified under a microscope.
Note: Anti-microbial, just like anti-biotic is a course of medications that has to be administered on an 8 monthly cycle to be long term effective again re-occurrence.
>>> Should I clean the spots with concorbium? It contains sodium bicarbonate, sodium percarbonate and tetra acethyne diamene. Will that upset the ph balance again?
You may have to ask the manufacturer for this product whether it is 'leather-safe' for Zebra hide.
You want to kill the mold not the 'Zebra'.
Since I have already hydrated the skin, should I apply the fat liquor while it is still damp? By the time I get something for the mold, the hydrator might have dried out. Or should I wait till the mold issue is resolved?
Can I use borax paste on the spots? I believe borax is alkaline and I have it on hand. If I were to use it, would it be before or after fat liquor?
Check it out with the borax manufacturer if this is leather-safe?Quote:
Originally Posted by Desperate
A leather-safe specialty product has a pH range of 3 to 5.
>>> It does not look so bad now and has opened up but still very hard. The skin looks very clean now and even when I cleaned it there was no dirt. My only worry is, could the skin be a hidden carrier of the mold or, because it got the mold in April and cleaned then and does not show mold so far, I am safe keeping the skin.
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Yes! you are safe keeping the skin - just need to be treated with "KillMold-3.6".
Mentioned above as follows:Quote:
Originally Posted by Desperate
Fatliquor-5.0 is the last treatment of this wet process (restorative cleaning, fungicide treatment, hydrating and fatliquoring) in this sequence of process. Optional is to treat it after without interrupting the hydrated skin prepared for fatliquoring. All products are water-based and may be used in this case before or after fatliquoring.
You option is to go ahead with Fatliquoring and treat the mold issue after.
Ph balance of borax is 9.3 so would it harm the skin?
It will just denature (repels all the leather constituents of the skin) and revert back to rawhide dried stiff and crack, is this what you want for convenience?Quote:
Originally Posted by Desperate
No. That is why I asked. I am looking for the best solution and as fast as possible.
Best proven solution is with KillMold-3.6 and overnight shipping is as fast as you can get!Quote:
Originally Posted by Desperate
Thank you very much for helping me save the zebra skin. It has been lying on the floor for a few months now and there seems to be no mold on it anymore. I have used the leather patch on the stiffer parts and sewn the rest. The areas that have been patched are much neater but unfortunately the patch was small. I would like to hang up the skin on the wall again. Do I need to nail some backing on the wall before I nail the skin? It would have to be something like cardboard as I am alone and no one to help me. Also what sort of nails do I use?
Looking forward to your reply.
I also have a little bit of fat liquor left. Should I use it now? The skin is still fairly soft.
>>> I also have a little bit of fat liquor left. Should I use it now?
Yes you may.
>>> Do I need to nail some backing on the wall before I nail the skin?
You only need a strong nail on your wall to hold the entire frame-up skin.
>>> Also what sort of nails do I use?
Depending on the wall type, screws are preferred to nails.
Do i need to frame it? It was just hanging loosely on the wall before. Framing it would be expensive and make it look bulky.
You may hang it just like before, framing is just an option.
Thanks a lot for all your help and advice.