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Roger,
I would like to know what we would need in a kit to do maintenance cleaning in home, for all 3 types of leather. I'm referring to tools and products. We are currently using another manufacturer for these in home kits, however we feel your products to be superior, but we need a simplified and condensed product list. It would also be beneficial to get labels of the products to insure that products are used properly and all msds information is accurate.
Thank you, Chet
The General Leather Maintenance Care Program includes:
1 The routine removal of general soiling.
2 The attending to spots and stains.
3 The periodic leather rejuvenation to prevent premature ageing.
4 The periodic secondary pull-up effect rejuvenation to maintain the desired fashion effect.
5 The non-stick protection against the detrimental effect of daily soiling.
6 The natural tactile feel protection (buttery, draggy, silky or waxy) to increase the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs.
7 The imparting of the unforgettable classic leather scents that makes leather so captivating and enjoyable more than any other upholstery material through the centuries.
A] Maintaining Care for the Three Major Leather Types: Pigmented, Aniline and Nubuck
1 Pigmented Leather Care Kit
(It’s for maintenance care of Pigmented leathers with its various fashion varieties, including simulated and all non-absorbent leathers).
Cleaner-3.8
Rinse-3.0
Leather Scent-B
Prep-7.7
Leather Brush1
Rags
2 Aniline Leather Care Kit
(It’s for maintenance care of Aniline leathers, including worn and cracked Pigmented, Micro-Pigmented (semi-Aniline) & Napa-Pigmented leathers).
Cleaner-3.8
Rinse-3.0
Fatliquor-5.0
Leather Scent-B
Prep-4.4
Degreaser-2.2
Leather Brush1
Rags
3 Nubuck Leather Care Kit
(It’s for maintenance care of Nubuck leathers).
Cleaner-3.8
Rinse-3.0
Fatliquor-5.0
Leather Scent-S
Prep-4.4
Degreaser-2.2
Nubuck Brush2
Rags
B] Maintaining the Specialty Leathers: Aniline or Nubuck Oil Pull-up; Aniline or Nubuck Wax Pull-up; Vachetta (naked veg-tan) leathers; Bicast; Split-Suede and Hair-on.
1 Aniline Oil Pull-up Leathers Care Kit
Cleaner-3.8
Rinse-3.0
Fatliquor-5.0
Oil Effect-2.8
Leather Scent-B
Prep-4.4
Degreaser-2.2
Leather Brush1
Rags
2 Aniline Wax Pull-up Leathers Care Kit
Cleaner-3.8
Rinse-3.0
Fatliquor-5.0
Wax Effect-8.6
Leather Scent-D
Prep-4.4
Degreaser-2.2
Leather Brush1
Rags
3 Nubuck Oil Pull-up Leathers Care Kit
Cleaner-3.8
Rinse-3.0
Fatliquor-5.0
Oil Effect-2.8
Leather Scent-B
Prep-4.4
Degreaser-2.2
Nubuck Brush2
Rags
4 Nubuck Wax Pull-up Leathers Care Kit
Cleaner-3.8
Rinse-3.0
Fatliquor-5.0
Wax Effect-2.8
Leather Scent-D
Prep-4.4
Degreaser-2.2
Nubuck Brush2
Rags
5 Vachetta (Naked Veg-Tan) Leathers Care Kit
Cleaner-3.8
Rinse-3.0
Fatliquor-5.0
Leather Scent-D
Prep-4.4
Degreaser-2.2
Leather Brush1
Rags
6 Bicast Leathers Care Kit
Cleaner-3.8
Rinse-3.0
Leather Scent-D
Prep-7.7
Leather Brush1
Rags
7 Split-Suede Leathers Care Kit
Cleaner-3.8
Rinse-3.0
Fatliquor-5.0
Leather Scent-W
Prep-4.4
Degreaser-2.2
Suede Brush3
Rags
8 Hair-on Leathers Care Kit
Wool Cleaner-5.5
Wool Rinse-4.0
Leather Scent-S
Wool Degreaser-5.6
Suede Brush3
Rags
Instruction are direct from product labels, additional literatures would be included into the kit for easy reference.
MSDS of all products is mandatory available.
We can discuss the packing sizes of these products and in the meanwhile I will be preparing pictures to be inserted into these kits for better visual impact.
What do you think?
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
Roger,
What I want to do is condense this list to all the products we will need to carry and then have instructions on how to determine the leather type and the proper procedure to use to clean them.
These kits are for my technicians, we have 4 trucks on the road and also do the restoration work in our shop. so I will want to put together 5 kits.
At present we use use a Stanley Tote that we purchase from Lowes, it has a top tray and a large bottom area I will have Jermaine send you a picture, Idealy i would want to be able to fit all these products in this one tote.
Additionally, we need a method of applying fat liquore and leather scent s to nubuck leather with a fine mist, that is can also fit in the kit. Do you have a suggestion?
I will need a list of tools also,
nubuck eraser
aniline eraser
?
I think this is a great idea. I would suggest to cut cost to consumer in this economy that maybe offering the kit without the ink remover would be advantageous. Do you have a direct link to MSDS sheets on this web site? So if our label says product from Leather Doctor and emergency contact info includes a link to web site addy for MSDS so doctor can immediately get info needed?
Chet,
Professional Leather Cleaning, Repair & Refinishing Kit all in one Tote.
Here are my suggestions:
A CLEANERS (Pigmented, Aniline and Nubuck):
1] Leather Degreaser
a. Degreaser-2.2
2] Leather Preparatory Cleaner
a. Prep-7.7
b. Prep-4.4
3] Leather Preconditioner
a. Super Cleaner-4.9
b. Strong Cleaner-4.3* (optional)
D] Leather Cleaner
a. Cleaner-3.8
E] Leather Rinse
a. Rinse-3.0
B SPECIALTY CLEANERS (Pigmented, Aniline and Nubuck):
1] Leather Bactericide
a. d’Bacteria-3.7
2] Leather Deodorizer
a. d’Odor-4.5
b. d’Smoke-4.7
3] Leather Fungicide
a. d’Mold-3.6
4] Leather pH Neutralizer
a. Acidifier-2.0
b. Basifier-8.8
C SPECIALTY REMOVERS (Pigmented, Aniline and Nubuck):
1] Leather Bleach
a. Bleach-10.3
2] Leather Ink Remover
a. Ink Remover-7.7* (same as Prep-7.7)
3] Leather Protein Stain Remover
a. d’Protein-11.0
4] Leather Spew Remover
a. d’Spew-4.8
5] Leather Tannin Stain Remover
a. d’Tannin-3.5
6] Leather Tarnish Stain Remover
a. d’Tarnish-1.3
7] Leather Urine Stain Neutralizer
a. d’Urine-2.1
8] Leather Yellow Oxidized Stain Remover
a. d’Yellow-6.7
D CONDITIONERS (Pigmented, Aniline and Nubuck):
1] Leather Hydrator
a. Hydrator-3.3
2] Leather Rejuvenator
a. Fatliquor-5.0
3] Pull-up Leather Rejuvenator
a. Oil Effect-2.8
b. Wax Effect-8.6
4] Leather Scent Non-Stick Protector
a. Leather Scent-B (buttery-feel)
b. Leather Scent-D (draggy-feel)
c. Leather Scent-S (silky-feel)
d. Leather Scent-W (waxy-feel)
E HAIR-ON, WOOLSKIN, FEATHER and FUR (optional)
1] Wool Degreaser-5.6
2] Wool Cleaner-5.5
3] Wool Rinse-4.0
4] Fur & Hair-S
F REPAIRS
1] Impregnator-26
2] Leather Bond-3D
3] Leather Bond-7A
4] Leather Stucco-90
5] Leather Patch-4S
G AUXILIARIES
1] Adhesor-73
2] CrossLinker-25
3] Surfactant-3.6
4] Thickener-48
H PRIMARY COLORS
1] Pigmented Colors
a. Pigment Standard-64
b. Pigment Micro-54
c. Pigment Napa-84* (Optional)
2] Aniline Colors
a. Aniline T’parent-27
b. Aniline T’lucent-25
c. Aniline Pure-21
3] Nubuck Colors
a. Nubuck T’parent-23
b. Nubuck T’lucent-28
c. Nubuck Opaque-84
I SECONDARY COLORS
1] Antique T’lucent-26
J EFFECT COLORS*
1] Chameleon-95
2] Fluorescent-96
3] Metallic-98
4] Pearlescent-97
K TOP COATS
1] Pigmented Topcoats
a. Topcoat Pigment-56G
b. Topcoat Pigment-56M
c. Topcoat Micro-72G
d. Topcoat Micro-72M
e. Topcoat Napa-78S*
f. Topcoat Napa-44G*
2] Aniline Topcoats
a. Topcoat Aniline-79G
b. Topcoat Aniline-79M
c. Topcoat Pure-73G*
d. Topcoat Pure-73M*
3] Nubuck and Suede Fix
a. Nu buck Fix-99
L TOOLS
1] Brushes
a. Detail Leather Brush-1
b. Standard Leather Brush*
c. Detail Nubuck Brush-2
d. Standard Nubuck Brush*
e. Detail Suede Brush-3
f. Standard Suede Brush*
2] Erasers
a. Leather Eraser-4
b. Nu buck Eraser-5
3] Tools
a. Repair Tool Kit
b. Dry Prep Tool Kit
c. Color Matching Kit
d. Magnifying Glass or Light scope
e. Other Tools
4] Airbrushing Tools
a. Paasche Single Action Airbrush
b. Diaphragm Silent Compressor
The above * is optional and you may want to trim further to fit your service need.
The bottle size is another consideration.
You may also like to consider some products in concentrate to be cut with distilled water to save the bulk of carrying unnecessary load.
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
Pristine,
I misunderstood Chet earlier, now I may be right to assume that he wants to set up a Professional Kit and he may want to include repairs and refinishing for both on-location and in-plant work all in one. We have to work it out maybe in modules – Cleaning & Conditioning as one module and Repairs & Refinishing as another.
I believe you are talking about Maintenance Care Kit for DIY.
The Ink Removers or Degreaser can be an option – Which kit are you interested? We can work to suite?
It will be there once www.leatherdoctor.com site is up; in the meanwhile you can have the MSDS in your website too.
Roger Koh
604 468 2340 (PST)
Sounds Good. You are awesome Roger. Couldn't be in the business without you!;)
Roger,
1)We want a kit that all our techs would keep on their trucks to clean in home, for routine maintenance and some minor spots and stains. Only what we can perform in the home in a reasonable amount of time and with techs that have some training, but leather is not the only thing they do.
Basically safe products and procedures.
2)We need a repair kit for repairs that can be performed in home that will be used by our leather specialist.
3)We need Supplies and procedures for leather resotoration that we perform in our shop.
The priority is for the maintenace kit Supplies and Procedures, we have most of the other stuff already in our shop and purchase stuff as needed.
The way I usually write procedures is starting with Supplies Nneeded; to perform the task
the format i use is below
Protected Leather cleaning /maintenance
Purpose: To qualify with the client if in home maintenance cleaning is going to meet the clients expectations or does the article(s) need to be be restored in our facility. Then to properly clean and preserve the structure, finish and hand of the article being cleaned, and apply a stain and soil and UV protection.
Supplies:
Leather Cleaning Kit*
Spotting Towels
Electric Sprayer with foam tip
Air mover
Tarps
*Tools- 1] Brushes
a. Detail Leather Brush-1
b. Standard Leather Brush*
Roger we like to use something mechanical to aid in the cleaning process such as a car polisher or a right angle drill with brush head, what do you think?
*Products
DeGreaser 2.2
Prep Cleaner 7.7
Super Cleaner3.8
Leather Cleaner 3.8
Leather Rinse 3.0
Leather Scent-B
Leather Scent-D
Procedures
Describe what to use and how to use it in proper sequence
There is no need for the “Electric Sprayer with Foam tip” when you use leather-safe products.
This devise is used to control streaks on vertical panels.
Always spray from the bottom upwards on vertical panels to be doubly safe.
Drop the idea about mechanical aid, I would have agreed with you 10 years ago, not now!
It does more damages to the leather than you can imagine knowingly or unknowingly.
The product superiority has leapfrogged many folds with leather structure and finishes safety in mind.
The only elbow mechanical tools I need to assist the product are the detailed and standard brushes.
I would use the detail brushes even for the entire sofa, leaving the standard brush just for show.
I always have a good laugh when customer is watching and demonstrate that I can produce better and faster result using this toothbrush size detail brush.
Identification of leathers can be briefly found in this link:
http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...hread.php?t=81
The know-how for Stain Identification is next.
That follows with the Stain Removal Procedure for each leather type.
Just to throw in ideas to work on!
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
Which brushes should we carry, for application and aggitation.
We always carry an electric sprayer on our trucks, it has veryfine mist jet. This is what we have been using, it works great at applying an even coat of products.
However we need a small portable tool that effectively applies a mist coat of fat liquore and leather scent on the fine anilines and nubucks. I have used an airbrush, but it's tempermental and slow plus it needs the compressor, (If i could find one that sprays a larger pattern we could live with the compressors) The last nubuck job in home that we did we brought in the larger pancake compressor and the detail hvlp gun, it worked great but is too cumbersome to carryand set up.
Brushes:
All smooth leather use Detail Leather Brush-1 (horsehair) and the standard size.
All Nubuck use Detail Nubuck Brush-2 (stiff nylon) and the standard size.
All Suede and Hair-on use Detail Suede Brush-3 (fine Brass) and the standard size
Sprayers:
You may find some of these sprayers handy – try it out which model suites you!
http://www.wagnerspraytech.com/porta...07719,747.html
Roger, below with check boxes is the list of items I think we need to carry in our professional cleaning and conditioning kit.
Are there any cleaning agents that I missed or that aren't practical to use as an in home cleaning item?
Do the quantities seem correct?
A few items that we may still carry from other manufactureres are listed next, let me know if you think your product (s) and which one would eliminate the need for each of these.
We have not experiemented with nubuck eraser enough yet to know if we can eliminate the nubuck cloths yet.
I haven't found anything that draws oil out of nubuck and aniline as well as the aerosol degreaser.
And we have found the ink lifter easy to use in the past.
Super remover has worked very well at blue jean crocking and newsprint.
Also could you post pictures of all your tools including tools used for restoration.
And for protection; Do the Leather scent products protect against staining, I have found that leather that has been stain protected clean up much easier than unprotected leather, Do you have product(s) that compare to eco protector or protection cream?
Items below are in the Top Tray
2- Pc. NuBuck Eraser
2- Pc Aniline Eraser
1- Pc Horse Hair brush
1- Pc Nylon Brush
4- 2Pk. Nu-Buck Cloths (in Zip- loc bag)
1- Pc. Brass Brush for NuBuck finishing and pre-cleaning
1- Btl. Ink Killer ?
1- tube Ink Lifter?
25- Pc. Q-tips (in Zip- loc bag)
1- 60ml DeGreaser 2.2
1 - 60ml Prep Cleaner 7.7
Items Below are in bottom tray
1- gal. Leather Cleaner 3.8
1- gal. Leather Rinse 3.0
1-24 oz sprayer Leather Cleaner 3.8
1-24 oz sprayer Leather Rinse 3.0
1-24 oz sprayer Super Cleaner 4.9
1-24 oz sprayer Strong Cleaner 4.3
1-24 oz sprayer Leather Scent-B buttery
1-24 oz sprayer Leather Scent-D draggy
1-24 oz sprayer Leather Scent-S silky
1-24 oz sprayer Leather Scent-W waxy
1- Pint NuBuck Eco- Protector ( Fabric Guard)
2- ½ pint Super Remover
2- Cans Leather Degreaser (Aerosol)
4- Pc. Sponges
1- Pc. Hair Drier
Roger, I need 5 labels for all the products I listed, as you can see I need large and smaller labels for the cleaner and rinse because we will keep gallons and spray bottles in the kits. We have 5 complete kits.
Roger, below with check boxes is the list of items I think we need to carry in our professional cleaning and conditioning kit.
Are there any cleaning agents that I missed or that aren't practical to use as an in home cleaning item?
Check with what I have suggested above Post #6, I find the products selection is not well string up for profitable services.
By looking at the selected items, I can see miss opportunity for sales.
I suggest you decide on a service menu so we can work backwards to see if our kit supplies is adequate.
When we look too close “we may miss the forest for the tree”.
The supplies in the kit should drive your sales, not fit the box (change the box to fit your service menu).
Sounds complicated – it is not supplies to fit the kit, it is how much sales you want to derive from the kit.
Do the quantities seem correct?
A few items that we may still carry from other manufactureres are listed next, let me know if you think your product (s) and which one would eliminate the need for each of these. We have not experiemented with nubuck eraser enough yet to know if we can eliminate the nubuck cloths yet.
Nubuck Cloth = Nubuck Eraser-5 = Leather Eraser-4 in terms of application (Try it out to see the similarities and their difference – cloth diminishes in effectiveness while else the erasers remain constant in effectiveness).
I haven't found anything that draws oil out of nubuck and aniline as well as the aerosol degreaser.
Aerosol Degreaser = Degreaser-2.2 for degreasing (Degreasing head and arm rest with body contact always use Acidifier-2.0 to reduce bleeding – thereafter leather rejuvenating is highly recommended for suppleness and strength).
And we have found the ink lifter easy to use in the past.
Ink Lifter design for (3-5days) old ink = Ink Remover-7.7/Prep-7.7 is designed to remove older ink with its ability to dwell and suspense much better with residue easily removed with Cleaner-3.8.
Super remover has worked very well at blue jean crocking and newsprint.
Super Remover = Ink Remover-2.2 = Ink Remover-7.7 for removing blue jean crocking and newsprint.
(They are Same, Same for Purpose but Difference in Safety). Both 2.2 and 7.7 are design not to remove good wet rub-resistance topcoat.
Also could you post pictures of all your tools including tools used for restoration.
Restoration Cleaning?
And for protection; Do the Leather scent products protect against staining, I have found that leather that has been stain protected clean up much easier than unprotected leather, Do you have product(s) that compare to eco protector or protection cream?
The Leather Scent products does not protect against staining because they form “discontinuous film” that allows the leather to breath. They are non-stick, that is sticky substances like chewing gum or ballpoint ink will not dispense just like writing on a non-stick paper. The non-stick features like Teflon pan characteristic makes selling simple. All pigmented and aniline leathers already have their respective permanent topcoat protection. A film forming protection cream is a sort of topcoat that distorts the leather original finishing. The more we add unnecessary protective topping the more unnatural the leather becomes. Unless we are enhancing the leather which adds value to the leather in terms of tactile feel (buttery, draggy, silky or waxy) and impart an enticing unforgettable classic leather scents that makes leather so captivating through the centuries. We service the leather for our customer to enjoy and leave the worrying to us professional that will solve all their problems if stain accidents do happen.
Apply the protection cream when dry – try twenty rubs and see whether the protective feature is still there.
Spay the eco protector on a suede or nubuck collar – see how long it can protect the collar against stain.
Is stain protector equals waterproofing or merely “shower proofing”?
Selling leather "stain protector" reminds me of the story of the “Emperor New Clothes”.
Leather is hydrophilic with averaging at least 10% moisture, how does a mere surface coating prevents moisture self regulating from constant dry and wet rubs?
Why didn’t the main stream leather producer sell their leather as “stain protected" and have to wait till the aftermarket wise guy like us to outsmart them?
Because it’s an outright joke!
For the Leather Industry has its honest definition on "What is Waterproof Leather".
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
Roger, I'm trying to put kits together that would allow us to clean and preserve leather furnishings in a clients home. It cannot contain more than a dozen or so products. If the leather needs restoration then it would need to be brought in for that purpose. Your list on post 6 is a restoration list.
My clients needs are what drives my sales, they need us to be able to clean, condition and protect there valuable leather goods on a routine basis before they need restoration.
As for protection we may always disagree, i have found protection products that prevent many stains from penetrating not only fabrics but leatther also. The vegetable tanned chairs that jermain has tried 10 times to remove a few simple drips are a prime example. This same vegetable tanned leather with protection did not change feel look or any other characteristic, but most drips cleaned up much easier than unprotected leather. I will use wool as an example, wool is inherently soil resistant, but spill red wine on it and it is is extremely difficult to remove. If that same wool is treated, the red wine is much easier to remove. Protection products don't make anything stain proof, thay make tham stain resistant, and more practical. Those vegetable tanned chairs are about as impractical as leather can be for a dinning room setting, what were trying to do is make them more practical.
Any space left for these profitable services?
D CONDITIONERS (Pigmented, Aniline and Nubuck):
1] Leather Hydrator
a. Hydrator-3.3
2] Leather Rejuvenator
a. Fatliquor-5.0
3] Pull-up Leather Rejuvenator
a. Oil Effect-2.8
b. Wax Effect-8.6
And let me know the product name and label size that you would like to fit the bottles!
I think you can put up a new thread: The pros and cons of Leather Stain Protection.
And we shall discuss from there, off course others can join in too.
And as for the chair you can try one with “Fatliquoring > Leather Scent-D” and another with “Protection Cream” repeat 6 monthly maintaining it over 2 years period you and your customer would know the difference.
Roger Koh
I thought Hydrator and Fatliquore needed to dwell longer. If they can be used in a short amount of time I'm all for it. As well as Oil effect and Wax effect.
I need to know what size and how these products should be applied so i can figure how they would fit. There are already 8 different spray bottles in the kit, and there is not much more room, unless there is less need for some of the products in which case we could use smaller containers. My post with the check boxes is what i think we need to carry, however if you think we can scale back on some sizes it would help to fit everything. I like to make sure we are equiped to clean at least a good size sectional sofa and maybe several chairs without running out of anything.
I purchased 24 oz. spray bottles for many of the other products because they will fit in the kit with sprayers attached (height is a factor, 32 oz don't fit.)
At this point we need the instructions for each type of leather.
Do you clean absorbent leathers on location?
If so Fatliquor-5.0 is highly recommended even on pigmented leathers that show darkening effects on creases.
And if the leather is stiff especially affected by heat Hydrator-3.3 will soften it up prior to fatliquoring.
On light colored absorbent leathers it is wise to hydrate it prior to fatliquoring to produce an even shade.
Application of these products is fast, spray and agitate for even absorption, but it will take longer to dry – may need return trip for inspection to remove wick-up residue.
Wax Effect-8.6 is more common on upholstery, application and agitation for even penetration is also faster than the average 4 hours natural drying time to activate the surface coated wax.
Do you do specialty spot removal or decontamination services on location?
1] Smoke & Soot decontamination?
2] Musty Odor decontamination?
3] Urine Stain decontamination?
4] Obnoxious Odor decontamination?
5] Spew problems?
6] Tannin Stains Removal?
7] Protein food stains removal?
8] Tackiness or stickiness rectification?
Do you like to do repairs to scratch or scuff?
Unless you can come up with a menu what entails your on-location leather services versus in-plant services there will always be an overlap.
I am just throwing these possibilities for your consideration.
Roger Koh
At this point we need the instructions for each type of leather.
Do you think we can add useful instructions to each of these leather types?
http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...hread.php?t=81
Where do you get your trigger sprayers and bottles? Maybe send me samples or let me know where you get them?
These 250ml mini trigger spray bottles, how many do you neeed?
http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...read.php?t=360
Roger our kits are together and being used. The following are the procedures we are using. Your input would be beneficial.
Leather Cleaning- Protected & non absorbent Semi Aniline
Purpose: To accurately qualify how the leather will look after cleaning. To clean leather as thoroughly as is safely possible, while properly conditioning and re-hydrating the structure of the leather.
1) Inspect Leather for cracks, scuffs, wear and fading Qualify stains and discoloration. PICTURES
a) Soil laden dark areas will usually be drastically improved, however; if the finish is damaged you may reveal worn areas.
b) Document pre-existing conditions on bottom of invoice
c) Have the customer sign the waiver
Silver- maintenance cleaning should not require Pre-spotting
Gold will require some pre-spotting and several cleanings
Platinum will require more pre-spotting and repeated cleanings
2) Magic square- test clean the most soiled area after getting permission to proceed.
3) Prepare cleaning area
4) Pre-vacuum any cracks or crevasses, under cushions etc…
5) Pre- Clean any very oily or heavily soiled areas
a) Use Prep Clean 7.7
b) Apply only to damaged areas with foam brush
c) Agitate with brush
6) Extract these areas with towels
a) Re-apply lightly so it can dwell
7) Allow to dwell
Repeat if necessary if getting transfer- most of the time this product will begin suspending soils and the dwell time and the cleaning process below will remove them.
8) Pre-Clean leather by applying cleaner to an area no larger than 2’ x 2’
a) You may start on back or sides to allow Prep cleaner to loosen oily soils
b) Work in well with spinning brush or if leather is highly absorbent use horse hair brush, use overlapping criss-cross pattern
9) Immediately Extract soil
a) Thoroughly use towels to absorb remaining cleaner and soil
b) Use fresh side of towel or fresh towels as necessary
c) Use the towel bag for fresh towels and place used towels in open suitcase
10) Clean the entire piece of furniture with above procedure, you will not get much transfer yet. But this is allowing the cleaning agent to dwell and break the soil bond
11) Re- Clean all soiled areas
a) Spray cleaner on small area, arm or one side of cushion at a time
b) Immediately extract off with clean dry towel
c) Look for dye transfer on towels (determine weather or not to repeat) you will usually get some color
12) Rinse
a) Spray small area at a time
b) Immediately extract off with towel
13) Clean all cloth areas and extract with towels
14) Hydrate
a) Spray entire piece with Hydrator
b) Groom in with brush
c) All areas should be evenly wet, this product helps fatliquor to penetrate the leather structure
15) Condition with Fatliquor
a) Spray entire piece with Fatliquor
16) Massage in fatliquor by white brush or horse hair brush or by hand
a) Repeat in very dry areas
17) Speed dry all areas with air movers and hair drier as necessary
18) Wipe off any fatliquor residue, you may need to use rinse
19) Apply “Leather Scent B” or possibly “D”
a) Spray on lightly and wipe off excess
b) Massage in as necessary, with heat from hairdryer
21) Speed dry all areas with air movers and hair drier as necessary
Leather Cleaning- Aniline & absorbent Semi Aniline
Purpose: To qualify accurately the limitations of how well Aniline will look after cleaning. To clean aniline leather as thoroughly as is safely possible, while properly conditioning and re-hydrating the structure of the leather.
1) Inspect Leather for cracks, scuffs, wear and fading Qualify stains and discoloration. PICTURES
a) Soil laden dark areas will not come out from cleaning- does the client understand this? We can restore Aniline Leather at our facility, at considerable extra cost.
b) Document pre-existing conditions on bottom of invoice
c) Have the customer sign the waiver
Silver- maintenance cleaning should not require Pre-spotting
Gold will require some pre-spotting and several cleanings
Platinum will require more pre-spotting and repeated cleanings
2) Prepare cleaning area
3) Magic Square- test clean a very soiled/ oily area to qualify with client
4) Pre-vacuum any cracks or crevasses, under cushions etc…
5) Pre Clean any very oily soiled areas
a) Use Prep clean 4.4
b) Apply only to oily and very soiled areas with foam brush
c) Agitate with Aniline eraser
6) Extract these areas with towels
7) Allow to dwell
8) Repeat if necessary if getting transfer- most of the time this product will begin suspending soils and the dwell time and the cleaning process below will remove them.
9) Pre-Clean leather by applying cleaner to an area no larger than 2’ x 2’
a) You may start on back or sides to allow Prep cleaner to loosen oily soils
b) Work in well with brush or if leather is highly absorbent use horse hair brush, use overlapping criss-cross pattern
10) Immediately Extract soil
a) Thoroughly use towels to absorb remaining cleaner and soil
b) Use fresh side of towel or fresh towels as necessary
c) Use the towel bag for fresh towels and place used towels in open suitcase
11) Clean the entire piece of furniture with above procedure, you will not get much transfer yet. But this is allowing the cleaning agent to dwell and break the soil bond
12) Re- Clean all soiled areas
a) Spray cleaner to small area, arm or one side of cushion at a time
b) Immediately extract off with clean dry towel
c) Look for dye transfer on towels (determine weather or not to repeat) you will usually get some color
13) Rinse
a) Spray small area at a time
b) Immediately extract off with towel
14) Clean all cloth areas and extract with towels
15) Hydrate
a) Spray entire piece with Hydrator
b) All areas should be evenly wet, this product helps fatliquor to penetrate the leather structure
16) Condition with Fatliquor
a) Spray entire piece with Fatliquor
17) Massage in fatliquor by white brush or horse hair brush or by hand
a) Repeat in very dry areas
18) Speed dry all areas with air movers and hair drier as necessary
19) Wipe off any fatliquor residue, you may need to use rinse
20) Apply “Leather Scent B”
a) Spray on lightly and wipe off excess
b) Massage in as necessary, with heat from hairdryer
22) Speed dry all areas with air movers and hair drier as necessary
Leather Cleaning- NuBuck & Suede
Purpose: To accurately qualify the limitations of how well Nubuck will look after cleaning. To clean nubuck leather as thoroughly as is safely possible, while properly conditioning and re-hydrating the structure of the leather.
1) Inspect Leather for cracks, scuffs, wear, and fading, Qualify stains and discoloration.
a) Document pre-existing conditions on bottom of invoice
b) Have the customer sign the waiver
2) Prepare cleaning area
a) Tarp under articles to be cleaned
b) Move any other furnishings out of the way
3) Pre clean using Nubuck Eraser
a) Use eraser very lightly and in back and forth motion like and eraser
b) Use the eraser anywhere the nap feels compacted or where there are spots or stains
c) You should be getting a “finger writing effect”
d) Repeat above procedure for entire article
e) If some areas are severely soiled and oily just try to loosen the nap so the cleaning solutions can penetrate and do the work.
f) Do not erase too aggressively; you will turn Nubuck into Suede!!!!
4) Pre-vacuum all leather
a) The eraser will loosen a lot of fiber, soil, and alos some of it’s grit, so vacuum thoroughly
b) Vacuum all leather, gently (take care not to scratch the finish)
c) Also vacuum any cracks, crevasses, and under cushions etc…
d) Silver- maintenance cleaning should not require Pre-spotting
e) Gold will require some pre-spotting and several cleanings
f) Platinum will require more pre-spotting and repeated cleanings
5) Pre-Clean, spot clean only areas that will require it
a) Nubuck safe pre cleaners DeGrease 2.2 is mild and PrepClean 4.4 stronger
b) Apply lightly with sponge brush
c) Agitate with Nubuck brush, or Spatula
d) Extract with towel(s)
e) Use the towel bag for fresh towels and place used towels in open suitcase
6) Remember that these spotting agents will penetrate deeply and become harder to clean and rinse out adding considerable time to drying and finishing, soooo only use as much as necessary and try to remove any excess as soon as possible.
7) Dwell The more time pre-cleaning agents stay in contact the better, so we will normally clean back and sides first.
8) Clean use Clean 3.3
a) Apply evenly, one section at a time
b) Immediately extract with dry towel(s)
c) Repeat as necessary until towel(s) show clean
d) Thoroughly try to clean and massage out any areas you used prep cleaning agents.
9) You may agitate stubborn areas while wet, but follow up with dry towels and repeat spray and extract until towels show clean.
10) It is better to work around an article, instead of repeatedly working on one area, this allows the cleaner more time to dwell and loosen the soil without over-wetting.
11) Clean all cloth areas with cleaner and extract with towels.
12) Rinse use Rinse 3.3
a) Apply evenly one section at a time
b) Immediately extract off with clean dry towel(s)
c) Extra extraction with clean dry towels will remove more soil and shorten the drying time
d) Insure that you thoroughly rinsed any areas that were prep cleaned.
13) Dry
a) Use Air movers and hair dryer
b) Pay particular attention to areas that are more saturated.
14) Inspect The entire piece should be even and look good. If it is even slightly damp in areas and dry in others it might ring when completely dry, SOOOOO- Dry it Now.
15) Fat Liquor / Conditioner Use Fatliquor 5.0
a) Apply with Spray tool very lightly and evenly
b) Any specs or drops will show up as darker spots
16) Dwell
a) Allow it dwell for about 5 minutes
b) Lightly wipe with clean soft towel after 5 minutes
17) Leather Scent S
a) Apply with Spray tool very lightly and evenly
b) Any specs or drops will show up as darker spots
18) Dwell
a) Allow it dwell for about 5 minutes
b) Lightly wipe with clean soft towel after 5 minutes
20) Speed dry all areas with air movers and hair drier as necessary
21) Optional- Re-apply “Nubuck Eco Protector”
a) Mist evenly you will be able to tell where there was not enough, it will soak in
22) Speed dry all areas with air movers and hair drier as necessary
23) Soften and lift nap with Nubuck Eraser
a) Use gently back and forth to restore “finger writing effect”
24) Vacuum or brush any lint or fiber
Roger, Are you going to reply if the steps and product are correct? Do you have any recommendations? I'm trying to systematize your products and produce consistent cleaning and conditioning results. Are you interested in helping develop these systems?
Please see those highlighted in Red, and let us know what you think for further improvement!
Leather Cleaning- Protected & Non-absorbent Semi Aniline
Purpose: To accurately qualify how the leather will look after cleaning. To clean leather as thoroughly as is safely possible, while properly conditioning and re-hydrating the structure of the leather.
1) Inspect Leather for cracks, scuffs, wear and fading Qualify stains and discoloration. PICTURES
a) Soil laden dark areas will usually be drastically improved, however; if the finish is damaged you may reveal worn areas [that may requires hydrating and fatliquoring].
b) Document pre-existing conditions on bottom of invoice
c) Have the customer sign the waiver
Silver- maintenance cleaning should not require Pre-spotting
[Silver – cleaning with preconditioner Strong Cleaner-4.3 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0]
Gold will require some pre-spotting and several cleanings
[Gold – cleaning with super preconditioner Super Cleaner-4.9 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0]
Platinum will require more pre-spotting and repeated cleanings
[Platinum – cleaning with Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0]
2) Magic square [what’s the size] - test clean the most soiled area after getting permission to proceed.
3) Prepare cleaning area
4) Pre-vacuum any cracks or crevasses, under cushions etc…
5) Pre- Clean any very oily or heavily soiled areas
a) Use Prep-7.7
b) Apply only to damaged areas with foam brush
c) Agitate with brush
6) Extract these areas with towels
a) Re-apply lightly so it can dwell
7) Allow to dwell
Repeat if necessary if getting transfer- most of the time this product will begin suspending soils and the dwell time and the cleaning process below will remove them.
[Note: These damaged areas (cracks and abrasion requires to be rejuvenated with Hydrating and Fatliquoring to restore strength and suppleness when the leather is dry.]
8) Pre-Clean [Silver use Strong Cleaner-4.3, Gold use Super Cleaner-4.9 and Platinum use Prep-7.7] leather by applying cleaner [Preconditioner] to an area no larger than 2’ x 2’
a) You may start on back or sides to allow Prep cleaner [Preconditioner] to loosen oily soils
b) Work in well with spinning brush or if leather is highly absorbent use horse hair brush [Leather Brush-1], use overlapping criss-cross pattern
9) Immediately Extract soil
a) Thoroughly use towels to absorb remaining cleaner and soil
b) Use fresh side of towel or fresh towels as necessary
c) Use the towel bag for fresh towels and place used towels in open suitcase
10) Clean the entire piece of furniture with above procedure, you will not get much transfer yet. But this is allowing the cleaning agent to dwell and break the soil bond
11) Re- Clean all soiled areas
a) Spray cleaner [Cleaner-3.8] on small area, arm or one side of cushion at a time
b) Immediately extract off with clean dry towel
c) Look for dye transfer on towels (determine whether or not to repeat) you will usually get some color
12) Rinse [with Rinse-3.0]
a) Spray small area at a time
b) Immediately extract off with towel
13) Clean all cloth areas and extract with towels
14) Hydrate
a) Spray entire piece [those finish areas that are cracked, abraded and deteriorated that becomes absorbent] with Hydrator-3.3
b) Groom [control flow of spray with foam-brush for faster saturation] in with brush
c) All areas [that are absorbent noted by its darkening effect] should be evenly wet, this product [Hydrator-3.3 helps to penetrate stiff and compressed leathers thus] helps fatliquor to penetrate the leather structure [faster].
15) Condition with Fatliquor [Fatliquor-5.0].
a) Spray entire piece [crack, weak, worn and absorbent areas] with Fatliquor
16) Massage in fatliquor by [foam-brush] white brush or horse hair brush or by hand
a) Repeat in very dry areas [where the fatliquor-5.0 disappear in instantly, requires more saturation].
17) Speed dry all areas with air movers and hair drier as necessary
18) Wipe off any fatliquor residue, you may need to use rinse. [note: On these special attention areas that are fatliquored, any strays could be drive in easily with Rinse-3.0. Rinse-3.0 will acidify the protein leather fibers making it more cationic (+) so that their HYDROGEN-BONDING strength increases. You will see that the milky white just disappear much faster in these areas. When you explain this phenomenal to your customer, they will be impress and may tell other leather owners how leather is fatliquored for strength and suppleness]..
19) Apply “Leather Scent B” or possibly “D” [“B” – Buttery is more appropriate for upholstery, “D” – Draggy is more for leather rugs and floors that retards slip].
a) Spray on lightly and wipe off excess
b) Massage in as necessary, with heat from hairdryer [Leave the massaging after fatliquor dries, there is no need to massage after Leather Scent-B]
21) Speed dry all areas with air movers and hair drier as necessary
Leather Cleaning - Aniline & Absorbent Semi Aniline [including the Aniline Oil and Wax Pull-ups].
Purpose: To qualify accurately the limitations of how well Aniline will look after cleaning. To clean aniline leather as thoroughly as is safely possibly can, while properly conditioning [hydrating] and re-hydrating [fatliquoring to rejuvenate] the structure of the leather for strength and suppleness thus prevents cracking.
1) Inspect Leather for cracks, scuffs, wear and fading - Qualify stains and discoloration. PICTURES
a) Soil laden dark areas [especially those body grease and oil contact areas common on headrest, armrest and seat cushions] will not come out from cleaning [but only by Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse3.0 with Leather Eraser-4 to removed the wick-up oil particulate when dry and in most cases the topcoat needs refinishing from alkaline damages caused by the urea from perspiration] - does the client understand this? We can restore Aniline Leather at our facility, at considerable extra cost.
b) Document pre-existing conditions on bottom of invoice
c) Have the customer sign the waiver
Silver- maintenance cleaning should not require Pre-spotting [Strong Cleaner-4.3 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0]
Gold will require some pre-spotting and several cleanings [Super Cleaner-4.9 > Cleaner-3,8 > Rinse-3.0]
Platinum will require more pre-spotting and repeated cleanings [Prep-4.4 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0]
2) Prepare cleaning area
3) Magic Square- test clean a very soiled/ oily area to qualify with client
4) Pre-vacuum any cracks or crevasses, under cushions etc…
5) Pre Clean [degrease] any very oily soiled areas
a) Use Prep clean 4.4 [Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0]
b) Apply only to oily and very soiled areas with foam brush
c) [Lightly] Agitate with Aniline eraser [Leather Eraser-4 after the area is fast dry with hair dryer to remove the black wick-up soiling particulates]
6) Extract these areas with towels
7) Allow to dwell
8) Repeat if necessary if getting transfer [dyes transfer is mainly due to perspiration contaminated areas that has traces or urea and the pH of these areas have shifted alkaline – Acidifier-2.0 will stabilize and reduce the bleeding problem] - most of the time this product will begin suspending soils and the dwell time and the cleaning process below will remove them.
9) Pre-Clean [Strong Cleaner-4.3, Super-Cleaner-4.9, Prep-7.7] leather by applying cleaner to an area no larger than 2’ x 2’
a) You may start on back or sides to allow Prep cleaner to loosen oily soils
b) Work in well with brush or if leather is highly absorbent use horse hair brush, use overlapping criss-cross pattern
10) Immediately Extract soil
a) Thoroughly use towels to absorb remaining cleaner and soil
b) Use fresh side of towel or fresh towels as necessary
c) Use the towel bag for fresh towels and place used towels in open suitcase
11) Clean [with Cleaner-3.8] the entire piece of furniture with above procedure, you will not get much transfer yet. But this is allowing the cleaning agent to dwell and break the soil bond
12) Re- Clean all soiled areas
a) Spray cleaner [Cleaner-3.8] to small area, arm or one side of cushion at a time
b) Immediately extract off with clean dry towel
c) Look for dye transfer on towels (determine weather or not to repeat) you will usually get some color [Spray Acidifier-2.0 to those dye transfer areas to control “bleeding”].
13) Rinse [with Rinse-3.0]
a) Spray small area at a time
b) Immediately extract off with towel
14) Clean [with Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 even on raw cotton with no fear of browning marks or stains] all cloth areas and extract with towels
15) Hydrate
a) Spray entire piece with Hydrator [Hydrator-3.3]
b) All areas should be evenly wet, this product helps fatliquor to penetrate the leather structure
16) Condition with Fatliquor
a) Spray entire piece with Fatliquor [Fatliquor-5.0]
17) Massage in fatliquor by [foam-brush] white brush or horse hair brush or by hand
a) Repeat in very dry [fast absorption] areas
18) Speed dry all areas with air movers and hair drier as necessary
19) Wipe off any fatliquor residue, you may need to use rinse [Drive in strays fatliquor with Rinse-3.0 and wipe off only the excess Rinse-3.0].
20) Apply “Leather Scent B” [or Leather Scent-W “waxy-feel” to match Waxed Aniline Leathers].
a) Spray on lightly and wipe off excess
b) Massage in as necessary, with heat from hairdryer [Massaging is only necessary for wax and oil pull-ups to create the wax-paper-crinkle effect after Wax Effect-8.6 or Oil Effect-2.8 after Fatliquor-5.0 and before Leather Scent-B for the Oil Effect and Leather Scent-D for the Wax Effect].
22) Speed dry all areas with air movers and hair drier as necessary
Leather Cleaning- NuBuck & Suede [including the Oil and Wax Pull-ups]
Purpose: To accurately qualify the limitations of how well Nubuck will look after cleaning. To clean nubuck leather as thoroughly as is safely possibly can, while properly conditioning [Hydrating] and re-hydrating [Fatliquoring to rejuvenate] the structure of the leather.
1) Inspect Leather for [stiffness] cracks, scuffs, wear, and fading, Qualify stains and discoloration.
a) Document pre-existing conditions on bottom of invoice
b) Have the customer sign the waiver
2) Prepare cleaning area
a) Tarp under articles to be cleaned
b) Move any other furnishings out of the way
3) Pre clean [Dry soil Removal] using Nubuck Eraser-5
a) Use eraser very lightly and in back and forth motion like and [an] eraser
b) Use the eraser anywhere the nap feels compacted or where there are spots or stains
c) You should be getting a “finger writing effect”
d) Repeat above procedure for entire article
e) If some areas are severely soiled and oily just try to loosen the nap so the cleaning solutions can penetrate and do the work.
f) Do not erase too aggressively; you will turn Nubuck into Suede!!!!
4) Pre-vacuum all leather
a) The eraser will loosen a lot of fiber, soil, and also some of its grit, so vacuum thoroughly
b) Vacuum all leather, gently (take care not to scratch the finish)
c) Also vacuum any cracks, crevasses, and under cushions etc…
d) Silver- maintenance cleaning should not require Pre-spotting [Strong Cleaner-4.3 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0]
e) Gold will require some pre-spotting and several cleanings [Super Cleaner-4.9 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0]
f) Platinum will require more pre-spotting and repeated cleanings [Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0]
5) Pre-Clean, spot clean only areas that will require it [Pre-Clean with Prep-4.4 and Degrease with Degreaser-2.2]
a) Nubuck safe pre cleaners [degreaser] Degreaser-2.2 is mild [safe] and Prep-4.4 stronger [as the strongest leather Preconditioners].
b) Apply lightly with sponge brush
c) Agitate with Nubuck brush, or Spatula
d) Extract with towel(s)
e) Use the towel bag for fresh towels and place used towels in open suitcase
6) Remember that these spotting agents will penetrate deeply and become harder to clean and rinse out adding considerable time to drying and finishing, soooo only use as much as necessary and try to remove any excess as soon as possible.
7) Dwell The more time pre-cleaning agents [Strong Cleaner-4.3, Super Cleaner-4.9, Prep-7.7] stay in contact the better, so we will normally clean back and sides first.
8) Clean use Clean 3.3 [Cleaner-3.8]
a) Apply evenly, one section at a time
b) Immediately extract with dry towel(s)
c) Repeat as necessary until towel(s) show clean
d) Thoroughly try to clean and massage out any areas you used prep cleaning agents [leather preconditioners].
9) You may agitate stubborn areas while wet, but follow up with dry towels and repeat spray and extract until towels show clean.
10) It is better to work around an article, instead of repeatedly working on one area, this allows the cleaner more time to dwell and loosen the soil without over-wetting.
11) Clean all cloth areas with cleaner [Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 even raw cottons without fear or marks or rings] and extract with towels.
12) Rinse use Rinse 3.3 [Rinse-3.0]
a) Apply evenly one section at a time
b) Immediately extract off with clean dry towel(s)
c) Extra extraction with clean dry towels will remove more soil and shorten the drying time
d) Insure that you thoroughly rinsed any areas that were prep cleaned [with any of the 3 leather preconditioners that matches the severity of soiling].
13) Dry
a) Use Air movers and hair dryer
b) Pay particular attention to areas that are more saturated.
14) Inspect The entire piece should be even and look good. If it is even slightly damp in areas and dry in others it might ring when completely dry, SOOOOO- Dry it Now.
15) Fat Liquor / Conditioner [leather rejuvenator] Use Fatliquor-5.0
a) Apply with Spray tool very lightly and evenly
b) Any specs or drops will show up as darker spots
16) Dwell
a) Allow it dwell for about 5 minutes
b) Lightly wipe with clean soft towel after 5 minutes
16A Secondary Leather Effect Rejuvenation – Wax Pull-Up Effect or Oil Pull-up Effect
Use either Wax Effect-8.6 or Oil Effect-2.8 to match effect pull-up type.
And use Leather Scent-B for the Oil pull up and Leather Scent-D for wax pull-up.
17) Leather Scent-S [“S’ stands for Silky-Feel].
a) Apply with Spray tool very lightly and evenly
b) Any specs or drops will show up as darker spots
18) Dwell
a) Allow it dwell for about 5 minutes
b) Lightly wipe with clean soft towel after 5 minutes
20) Speed dry all areas with air movers and hair drier as necessary
21) Optional- Re-apply “Nubuck Eco Protector”
[The Pros and Cons of a Protector that retards stains:
When you go thru with Nu buck Eraser-5 for that “finger writing effect’ it is rub-off and diminishes its “shower proofing effect” – test it out.
The seating comfort of nubuck is due to its breathability – any products that retard absorption will also retards breathability.
Where there is a request to retards soiling – a thorough “fatliquoring” which saturates the leather structure with natural oils and fats provide a natural shield against liquid stains.
Fatliquoring advantages other than reducing absorbency provide a richer color tone.
The other natural protector for consideration is the Nubuck Fix-99.
This protector is used to abate “Crocking” especially after the re-napping – when test it on a white terry towel will reveal some crocking.
This Nubuck Fix-99 is what the original tannery uses and it is subject to wear too.
These Fatliquor-5.0 and Nubuck Fix-99 retains the original characteristic of nubuck from the tannery.
a) Mist evenly you will be able to tell where there was not enough, it will soak in
22) Speed dry all areas with air movers and hair drier as necessary
23) Soften and lift nap with Nubuck Eraser
a) Use gently back and forth to restore “finger writing effect”
24) Vacuum or brush any lint or fiber
[Leather Doctor® Nubuck Fix-99: for Pure-Aniline, Nubuck and Suede.
This is an aqueous formulation color fix spray to abate crocking.
Crocking is greatly reduced or eliminated on most leather with good fixing of both dyes and micro pigment colors.
It improves wet rub fastness and reduces bleeding.
It maintains the natural feel and “finger writing effect” of the nap].
Roger, thanks for your reply and suggestions. I will work on the corrections to our procedures and send you the finished procedures. Your recommendations make sense and will be implemented immediately. thanks again.
We will probably always disagree on protection, I have cleaned many items that have been protected, and have found them to be easier to clean with better results, and have not found the protectors to change the hand or feel of the fiber or fabric. We also use a protector that has UV inhibitors in it that might prevent some of the sun fading that is so prevalent on aniline and nubuck leathers.