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There was a dark area that I thought was soiled exactly like the one in the 2nd photo. I went through the 3 steps with the 7.7, 3.8 and 3.0. I then repeated the 3 steps but didn't let the bag dry in between which is probably where I went wrong. Now as you can see in the 1st photo the area is very dark, especially in the seam area and not looking good at all. I'm wondering if there is any way to correct my blunder.
From pictures, this bag is identified as “Aniline” leather types; the problem is probably grease/oil related or alkaline related darkening effect. You can trouble shoot from the Aniline Problem Solving Guide below… that recommend 1st step is to use Degreaser-2.2 follows with 2nd step using Rinse-3.0.
Since you have the SA3 Kit, what you need for this problem is mostly likely only the Degreaser-2.2 to go over the problem accentuated. Prep-7.7 with a pH of 7.7 is not safe for aniline leathers. Leather average pH is between 3 and 5. Although sweat is mildly acidic, it’s the urea content that will shift alkaline as it ages. That is why the Degreaser-2.2 is designed in such low pH to neutralize the alkaline contamination from body contact. Bring back the pH of the leather to its neutral of 3 – 5. The general instructions for degreasing mentioned covers extreme cases. Yours is only the beginning – It is using the Prep-7.7 that makes the situation worse. To improve the situation is to clean it thoroughly with Cleaner-3.8 with brush agitation to remove all traces of the Prep-7.7 residue, follows with Rinse-3.0 until it is squeaky feel. Leave it dry – dry brush any wick up residue and stretching the leather will lighten up the color.
Let us know how much improvement you can achieve from these tips. Show picture and we can go from there…
Roger Koh
[email protected]
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Leather-Safe Aniline Leather Problem Solving Guide-A9
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Leather DoctorŽ Kit A3.dr : Aniline Leather Degreaser Kit
Aniline leather degreaser Kit A3.dr - features Degreaser-2.2 with a pH value of 2.2 and aniline Topcoat-79G. Degreaser-2.2 is a high viscosity aqueous formulated leather degreaser; for degreasing leather of penetrated sweat, oil and grease stains from skin and hair contact. Topcoat-79G is a gloss topcoat for aniline leathers. It’s an aqueous fine particular size urethane resin emulsion topcoat to protect aniline dyestuff with excellent toughness and flexibility. In most cases the damaged topcoat is camouflaged by the greasy contamination and becomes apparent once the grease is removed. A complete restoration process would involve removing the entire deteriorating topcoat with the help of optional Stripper-2.3, leather Eraser-4; and rejuvenate the leather structure for softness to prevent cracks prior to topcoat refinishing it.
■ Aniline Leather Degreasing System
Degreasing process involves two steps; first is the sufficient penetration of the degreaser to react with the grease and second is to cause a wicking action to bring out the grease. This process may be repeated depending on the depth of grease penetration. An advance technique is to cling wrapped the degreaser to control evaporation for a more effective dwell time.
Instructions
1st Phase Degreasing:
1] Warm up Degreaser-2.2 and shake very well until it turns to an opaque gel.
2] Apply direct and agitate with horsehair Brush-1 and/or Eraser-4 and towel extract until it shows clean.
3] Penetrated stains may require a deeper penetration, a dwell time of 5 to 30 minutes or before it dries for chemical reaction to occur, follows with towel extraction. Severe cases can be saturated and cling wrapped to control evaporation for a longer overnight dwell.
4] Suspended residue is to be rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract until it shows clean.
5] Let natural dry for suspended particulates to wicks up, erase with Eraser-4 and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat as necessary.
2nd Phase Stripping:
When topcoat damages are revealed, it is recommended that the entire panel is stripped to ensure an even appearance for topcoat refinishing. This is best done after the degreasing process.
1] Apply optional Stripper-2.3, scrub with leather Eraser-4 and towel extract to remove the topcoat damaged panel entirely.
2] Optional is use leather Razor-60 for shaving off topcoat, smoothen with 1000 – 1500 grit wet/dry sanding disc in conjunction with Rinse-3.0 with repeat towel extraction.
3] Spray Rinse-3.0 to remove topcoat residues to a squeaky clean.
3rd Phase Hydrating:
1] Spray Hydrator-3.3 with help of foam brush to penetrate the leather for an even appearance.
2] To further activate dormant dyestuff to resurface, the entire seat is wrapped with clear cling wrapper to control evaporation for an overnight dwell for an even appearance. The relaxed leather structure allows the creases and wrinkles to be further worked out for better appearance.
3] Towel extract until towel shows clean prior to immediate fatliquoring.
4th Phase Fatliquoring:
1] Fatliquor-5.0 follows the same procedure as the Hydrator-3.3, with in between drying application as moisture evaporates until it’s saturated.
2] The fully saturated leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
5th Phase Dry Preparation:
1] Inspect for complete removal of existing topcoat, texture roughness is to be smoothen with sanding (1000 – 1500 grit).
2] The leather surface is work over free of residues with Eraser-4 to an even appearance.
6th Phase Topcoat Application:
1] First coating is applied by lint free towel or foam brush with optional 1500 grit fine sanding in between dry coating for smoothness.
2] Airbrushing is optional for a professional result with in between fine sanding to achieve the desired smooth feel.
7th Phase Non-stick Rub Resistant Protection:
1] Spray Leather Scent-B, spread with lint free towel or foam brush and it’s ready to use when dry.
Thanks for your help Roger. I followed your instructions for cleaning and rinsing and this is the result.
Go ahead and clean further to remove the darkening effect - Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0.
Let us see the further improvement.
Roger Koh
These lighter areas started to appear that looked like the bag was loosing its color or finish or both which is why I stopped cleaning it. It didn't seem like the dark spot was diminishing any more. Sorry about the flash photo but it's raining here so I've got no natural light.
One possible reason is the diminishing of fatliquor through cleaning that makes the color appears lighter.
To return the leather color to its original color intensity is to hydrate with Hydrator-3.3 then follows with Faliquor-5.0.
The lost of topcoat is another possibility - but not advisable to lock in the darkening effect - the darkening stain has to be completely removed.
Several cleanings later and the dark spot doesn't seem to be making much progress. Is it better to clean and rinse once and let dry or to continually clean and rinse?
Is it better to clean and rinse once and let dry or to continually clean and rinse?
The darkening stain is from within the leather structure that need to get out.
Solution has to reach beneath the stain to emulsify or break it up.
Dwelling by placing a plastic cling wrapper would help to loosen up the soiling.
During the wicking process it is to continue towel extraction until towel shows clean.
Rinse-3.0 or Hydrator-3.3 can be reapply to further towel extract until towel shows clean.
Hydrator-3.3 can be used to further plumps-up the leather structure with plastic cling wrapper and leave overnight.
Remove the cling wrapper and replaced with tissue paper - wet with Hydrator-3.3 as an extension of the leather surface. Let is slow dry to catch the wick-up residue as it pass through.
When dry the surface is to be erase with Eraser-4 or dry terry towel to remove surface wick-up soiling particulates.
Thanks Roger, will try it. I have a question about another semi-aniline purse I'm working on that needed cleaning. This purse immediately absorbs anything put on it. It absorbed the Cleaner 3.8 instantly as soon as it touched the surface. There isn't time to wipe the absorption is so fast.
Show pictures, this leather must be very dry...
When this leather is fatliquored thereafter it will not be that thirsty. Optimum moisture level for leather should average 14% when dry to the touch. The fat and oil content in the leather structure helps to resist liquid stain as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by farefinta
To solve such problem is to saturate it with Rinse-3.0 prior to applying the Cleaner-3.8 to facilitate the towel extraction of soiling. Thereafter rinse again...
The rinse evaporates the instant it hits the surface.
Leather are all the same, but different in many ways and here the difference is in the finishing.
From pictures, it looks like "Napa NC Pigmented" leathers more commonly found in garment.
The NC or nitrocellulose finishing forms "discontinuous" film, for extra permeability, that also translate into more in absorbency.
Nothing wrong with it, only very different from the coach bag (semi-aniline or micro-pigmented).
However, when you see the description "Napa" on leather goods - It could also be napa aniline or napa pure aniline.
The pure aniline is the most expensive, follows with napa aniline, then the napa pigmented.
Thus "napa" leathers can come in 3 different finishes, from variety of animals - the most common is from lamb or sheep.
The finish for this bag is Napa Pigment-84 (black) > Napa Topcoat-78S (satin) > Protection-B+ (buttery-feel).
Hope this information helps.
Roger Koh
[email protected]