Aniline (Mono-tone) - Natuzzi - leather sofa charred by coal fell on it.

Natuzzi sofa leather charred by coal fell on it.

Dear Leather doctor,

I'm the lucky owner of a red leather Natuzzi sofa.
Last night a guest tripped on the hookah and a piece of coal fell on it for 3 seconds approx.
It left a black spot but fortunately no holes or serious damage occurred [Kindly check attached pics for better assessment].

There is a plethora of products on the site and I'm kinda confused.
I was wondering if you could advise me on which of your products is best geared for my case.

I've also attached a picture of the sectional side [last picture].
If you can notice the scratches from normal wear and the feel is kinda coarse, more like a fish scale that Id like to amend as well.
My only request would be to kindly avoid conditioners or products that could result in a glistening finish.
I feel that a glossy coating adds some undesired effect [tackiness] especially on leather furniture.

Your assistance is most appreciated.
from NY with love
Zaza


#1
Attachment 4188


#2
Attachment 4189


#3
Attachment 4190


#4
Attachment 4191


#5
Attachment 4192


#6
Attachment 4193

Attachment 4194>>> Last night a guest tripped on the hookah and a piece of coal fell on it for 3 seconds approx.

It left a black spot but fortunately no holes or serious damage occurred [Kindly check attached pics for better assessment].

The charred mark has damaged the finishes perhaps into the leather crust as well.

Preparation cleaning would involve degreasing it and fine sanding to remove surface charred prior to matching color refinishing.

Close-up pictures #2, #4 & #5 shows cracking that indicates the dryness of the leather with percentage of fatliquor running low and using a leather moisture meter or equivalent would able to read its existing fatliquor contents. Healthy leather would have a fatliquor content up to 14%, that is the original tannery standard. Any percentage of fatliquor difference would be recommended to top it up, first by hydrating it to relax and plumping the leather from stiffness and restoring back to original dimension prior to fatliquor replenishing it.

When the leather structure integrity is taken care of below the finishes the upper damaged color finishing is repair by a color restoration system comprises of Adhesor-73 > Aniline-76 > AnilineTop-76 > Protector-B+. And since Aniline-76 is a transparent dyestuff that matches the original any darkening effect will still show through. A thorough fine sanding to remove any darkening effect from the charred marks are critical when a transparent dyestuff that matches the original leather is inevitable, otherwise any blemishes will show through. To retain the original finishes characteristic a solution is to increase the degree of intensity to camouflage the blemishes but it will then involved the entire sofa to take up a new color intensity for the sake of the after cleaning and fine sanding damages. Other option just to cover up the spot may have to use an opaque pigment coloring such as Micro-54, but it would be a great difference in appearance from a fine varnish that reveals the beauty of grains to blocking off just like painted walls. The decision is yours how you would want to move in the options mentioned and I will recommend accordingly.


>>> I was wondering if you could advise me on which of your products is best geared for my case.

1 – Using matching transparent coating dyestuff may shows the blemishes unless the color intensity increases and that will involves your entire sofa to change for the sake of the possible blemishes a compromise from a deeper sanding may lessen the color intensity need to. Take note that color spotting with fresh color seldom matches faded coloring.
2 – Using matching opaque pigment is not comparable to your existing finishes; result is just like using paint for varnish repairs.
What is your option?


>>> If you can notice the scratches from normal wear

Reference to picture #6, scuffs are damaged topcoat and rough abrasions are damages into the leather crust.
Lightening scuff are repair with AnilineTop-76 either with matching gloss or satin luster to match and preparation cleaning is essential with Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 prior to topcoat refinishing.


>>> and the feel is kinda coarse, more like a fish scale that Id like to amend as well.

Reference to picture #5 the fish scale cracking is due to dryness of the original fatliquor.
The leather first have to be hydrated with Hydrator-3.3 to relaxed the opening scale prior to fatliquor replenishing to soften it with strength from cracking.


>>> My only request would be to kindly avoid conditioners or products that could result in a glistening finish.
I feel that a glossy coating adds some undesired effect [tackiness] especially on leather furniture.
When using original tannery finishing system there is no tackiness problem just like the original and specifically AnilineTop-21 G or S does not have any history of such issue. Tackiness is also reduces when the leather is protected with a non-stick protector such as Protector-B+ leather scented or the scentless version of Protector-B. This product also reduces friction wear and reduces scuff and abration as it imparts a buttery-feel to the finish.


For your reading:


Attachment 4194
Leather Doctor Kit-A7.cl : Aniline Leather - Dye Refinishing Kit
Leather Doctor® Kit-A7.cl, aniline leather dye refinishing kit is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing from the simple sunlight fading to the severely sweat damages from body oil and grease. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected stains show a darkening effect with a sticky feel have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that the dyestuff has also break bonds with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or shows signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH imbalance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies greasy contamination besides controlling dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of a healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Custom redyeing commences prior to topcoat refinishing. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline leathers dyestuff and topcoat refinishing system. Please email [email protected] for custom matching services or choice of color: Antique-Brown, Black, Yellow, Orange, Red, Red-Brown, Rubine, Blue or Dark-Brown.And choice of topcoat luster: Gloss or Satin

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
[email protected]

Dear Roger,
Allow me to thank you for the comprehensive diagnosis and offered solutions.
About the two options you suggested, I don't think involving the entire sofa is feasible in my case. This is a HUGE piece of furniture Roger.
I've decided to go with Option ONE WITHOUT increasing color intensity of the entire piece. I understand the risk of remaining charred marks blemishes. I'll take my chances.

If I get this right, steps should be as follows:

1- Hydrating prior to fatliquoring: Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather's suppleness with softness and strength and restore the 14% fat liquor percentage.
2- Fine sanding the charred marks before repair with the color restoration system of Adhesor-73 > Aniline-76 > AnilineTop-76 > Protector-B+

Two questions come to mind:
>>> 1- Could you confirm that Fatliquor-5.0 will not darken the sofa?
Or do I need to apply it on non-conspicuous area first to test for darkening effect?
I'm only asking because a fellow member had experienced intensive darkening effect with their ottoman here:
http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...6618#post16618

The intensive darkening effect was intentionally achieved by the effect of Hydrator-3.3 and not by Fatliquor-5.0 (see below B – Hydrating).
A 14% fatliquor only seasons the intensity, as dried leathers will loose its seasoning color intensity effect.

B – Hydrating:
One function of Hydrator-3.3 is activating dormant dyestuff to resurface and this is performed under evaporation control with plastic covering and dwelling for up to 72hrs.


>>> 2- The Aniline-76 offered on your store comes in a variation of different colors. When you say [Aniline-76 is a transparent dyestuff], do you actually mean the CLEAR colorless version? Or should I order the RED bottle to match the color of the sofa?

Clear is for diluting the color intensity of all other colors.
Red-Brown, I believe is a closer color than red, anyway all colors are intermixable. Note that aniline transparent dyestuff unlike opaque pigment color provides a range of color intensity depending on layers of application or absorbency of the leather. Always test out on a piece of white paper to understand how it response prior to actual application.


>>> 3- I will need a whole 250ml Fatliquor-5.0 bottle [RTU] and the Hydrator-3.3 as well. as to the rest of the kit and since the damage we're trying to tackle is less than 1/2 of an inch, is it possible to buy them in smaller quantities?

It is not practical to apply Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 and limiting them to a ½ of an inch.
Either applies to the entire sofa or none at all, if you are worried about color differences.
Take note that Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system is also used to rectify shrunk leathers.

>>> is it possible to buy them in smaller quantities?

All available sizes are found in the on-line store and you may order individual bottles accordingly.

>>> I'm still not sure about Hydrator-3.3 though. Will it darken my sofa?

One purpose of the Hydrator-3.3 is to activate the existing aniline color beneath the surface to resurface and as such brings back the original color to a degree as demonstrated in this link: http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...6618#post16618


>>> I understand that plastic covering is required for evaporation control and should dwell for up to 72hrs. I still need your reassurance it will not change the sofa color.

Increasing color intensity is what it does and it does not change from its original color to another color.

You will need dyestuff to change color.

>>> Adhesor-73 can be applied on the scratches I showed you right?

Using a foam brush then waiting till it dries out then applying a second layer if necessary it will seal them, no?

No!

If you are referencing to picture #6 and just like to improve the scuffing as a standalone you would use either AnilineTop-21G (gloss) or S (satin) that matches your original luster > Protector-B+ (optional)

When using Adhesor-73 for heavy abrasion to smooth them, it has to follow up with Aniline-76 > AnilineTop-21 G or S > Protector-B+(optional) as a complete refinishing system.

These 4 picture sequence shows how a shrunk leather is restored with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 Hydrator-3.3 system.


#1 Shrinkage closed to a fire source.
Attachment 4217


#2 Hydrator-3.3 is dwelled under evaporation control to relax the stiff leather.
Attachment 4218


#3 It is stretched while relaxed to its original dimension and immediately replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to maintain suppleness with softness and strength.
Attachment 4219


#4 Refinishing with hot plating for aesthetic.
Attachment 4220

>>> Do you fine sand the charred marks first then apply Hydrator and Fatliquor?

Charred leathers are typically restored in this sequence.
A - Dry Soil Removal:
1 – Fine sanding to remove charred.
2 – Eraser-4 to have better traction to remove charred residue from further abrading the leather (which becomes coarser).
3 – Horsehair Brush-1 to brush off delicately.

B - Hydrating:
Hydrating with Hydrator-3.3 is to relax and stretch back the leather back to original dimension.

C – Fatliquoring:
When the dimension is reached to satisfaction Fatliquor-5.0 is replenished to keep the fibrils separate and continuous reapplication with each drying cycle and up to 14% fatliquor content when dry will keep the leather supple, soft and strong. Fatliquor moisture content is measurable with leather moisture meter or equivalent, taking a reading before and after will give satisfaction to the doer, doing with understanding.

>>> and where does Acidifier-2.0 fall in the sequence?

Acidifier-2.0 follows after Rinse-3.0 where the leather value is pH off balanced.
Off pH balanced leather manifest as tackiness or stickiness, water rings and dye bleeding to name a few.
A healthy leather has a pH value of 3 to 5 (readable with a flat pH meter for leather) and any alkaline over exposure pH value above 7 will need to be pH balance back to its iso-electric point, or pH neutral or simple pI.
In a leather-safe cleaning and conditioning system (except repairs and refinishing system) the suffix numbers denotes the products pH value. Leather is an amphoteric material thus the significant of pH value to maintain the leather pH chemistry integrity. Every modern tannery will require a qualified “Leather Chemist” a specialize field in itself to process leather and we continue what they have left off build into the Leather Doctor system. We practice the sample principle when comes to cleaning and conditioning of our leather – simply reverse engineering the system from immersion into non-immersion three dimension object.


>>> I'm still a bit confused about the sequence, like which comes first.

So let's agree on this kit, then state the sequence please.

With Leather Doctor Kit-A6.tc the sequence for the charred stain is as follows:

A - Dry Soil Removal:
See above

B – Hydrating:
See above

C – Fatliquoring:
See above

D – Application of AnilineTop-21G or S (dyestuff optional depending the outcome of Hydrator-3.3)

F – Application of Protector-B+

When used on scuff areas the sequence is as follows:


2A - Restoration Cleaning replace A – Dry Soil Removal and the remaining sequence is the same.
Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 > Acidifier-2.0 as necessary for further pH balancing.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
[email protected]



Attachment 4233
Leather Doctor® Kit A6.tc, aniline leather topcoat refinishing kit is designed for topcoat repairs from friction wear, accidental scratch, scuff and abrasion to deteriorating greasy sweat stains. These topcoat damages are identified as white, dull or darkening stain from bare body contacts. Accidental whitish damages in most cases are free of soiling and direct AnilineTop-21G application with in between dry sanding rectifies most damages. Repairs to topcoat from daily wears that dulls will require a degreasing to remove penetrated rub-in soiling prior to topcoat application in a sequence process including Degreaser-2.2 follows with Rinse-3.0; Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0 prior to topcoat application. In a greasy and sweaty topcoat damaged areas especially to the headrest and armrest, a deep degreasing is essential follows with Acidifier-2.0 to stabilize the hydrogen bonding between the protein fibers with the other leather constituent like the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. This deep degreasing process is assisted by leather Eraser-4 in both the wet and dry cleaning process to remove soiling particulates off the leather surface. Hydrator-3.3 helps in the colloidal water movement bringing suspended soiling particulates to resurface through a dwelling and wicking process. Fat and oil is replenished by Fatliquor-5.0 in an emulsion form to penetrate into the leather structure. Once the fat and oil is hydrogen bond with the protein fiber, the water content breaks free leaving a breathing space for natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness preventing the leather structure from collapsing during compressing and flexing while the oil lubricates the fiber from sliding smoothly over one another like millions of connecting hinges. Protector-B+ impart a non-stick, rub-resistant surface with a buttery feel helps reduce friction wear to the topcoat and extended a high level of appearance for a longer period of time. When the leather is contaminated with foreign soiling, it is essential to look at topcoat refinishing in a holistic approach. Note that the cleaning and rejuvenating products suffix denotes its pH value in this leather-safe aniline leathers topcoat refinishing system.