Stiff, dry, deflated lambskin chanel vintage bag after redying attempt at home

I bought a red vintage lambskin chanel bag some time ago. The color was pale at some areas and I tried to dye it myself with red saphir cream polish, the colour got very irregular, i tryed to remove it with alkohol, redyed it with the same product, the colour got darker and better, still irregular, but my biggest concern now is that the skin got unfortunately very dry, stiff, it lost all its softness!! Besides the quilting deflated, and the puffiness it had before is gone!! It does not feel like a chanel lambskin bag anymore! I am afraid that the leather will get soon cracked as dry as it is now! I tried to put some leather conditioner, but it won't help.
Can the bag get revived again? Can I get back some of its softness and its puffiness?
Any ideas if and how the bag can be saved??

Thank you in advance for your advice/help!!

>>> Can the bag get revived again?

There are 2 levels to revive this bag.
First is the leather structure, second is the appearance.
Before we revive the leather structure of its “very dry, stiff and loss of its softness, quilting deflation and loss of puffiness the soiling contamination need to be removed. The unwanted soiling contamination includes the body oil, grease and sweat accumulated, and the aged and deteriorated non-compatible cream polishes. Degreaser-2.3 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system is recommended for removing the body soiling. The old and unwanted “red saphir cream polish” may need to be removed with Stripper-2.3 > Hydrator-3.3. Since the leather is already very dry of its original fatliquor [ionic negative (-ve) charged fat and oil] it. Both degreasing system and stripping system may have to done individually in this sequence to avoid further drying out the leather prior to replenishing the original fatliquor (average 15%).

1st sequence
Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Inspection for appearance.

2nd sequence
Stripper-2.3 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Inspection for appearance.

It is then evaluated to determine about the finishing best to hide any imperfection or color irregularity.

Let me know the route you wish to take?

For your consideration to refinish as “semi-aniline” or micro-pigmented with Kit-Sa7.cl (this is an opacity finishes that will hide the base color better then a translucent or transparent finishes).

Attachment 8087
Leather Doctor® Kit Sa7.cl, micro-pigmented leather color refinishing kit is design for a holistic restoration approach to not only the finishes but also rejuvenating the leather for suppleness. Most of these repairs may range from missing finishes to abrading damages into the leather structure. Some expose areas may be contaminated with foreign soiling that includes conditioners, protectors, body oil, grease and sweat or alkaline overexposure from cleaners. A comprehensive repair for a long-term lasting solution will require a holistic approach to deal with both the exposed structure and surface finishes. The practical and functional softness and strength of the leather depends on the health of the structure with average thickness between 0.9 to 1.2mm from stiffness and cracking. The aesthetic aspect of the leather finishes averages 0.02mm (or 20 micron) in thickness for practical compressing and flexing from cracking. A leather-safe restoration system begins by stripping with Stripper-2.3 and rinsing with Rinse-3.0. Degreasing with Degreaser-2.2 follows with Acidifier-2.0. The suffix numbers of these four products denotes it pH value for recharging the protein fiber ionic positive besides the act of decontamination. The leather integrity is revitalizes once the ionic attraction between the positive protein fiber and its negative leather constituents like the tanning agent and fatliquor (fat, oil and water) is initiated. Leather rejuvenating system for softness and strength is accomplishes with Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0. Surface uneven absorption is seals with Adhesor-73 to reduce the need for color over-coating thus increase its flexibility and stretchability from premature cracking. Protector-B imparts a non-stick rub-resistant surface with a buttery feel, reduces noises that translate into less friction wear. As the leather surface is well lubricated it reduces compression when comes to heavy body contact thus reduces compressed creases and wrinkles.

Instruction:

Stripping Existing Deteriorating Finishes:
1. Cover and tape off frames, trims and protect flooring.
2. Mist sprays Stripper-2.3, Eraser-4 scrub with help of 2000-grit sandpaper feathering out seamlessly and towel extract for an even appearance.

Degreasing:
1. Shake Degreaser-2.2 to gel prior to use with a repeat shake and rest until it gels.
2. Transfer to Eraser-4; agitate to saturate the stain, feather out to the entire section.
3. Towel extracts suspended soiling after 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries until it shows clean.
4. Spray Acidifier-2.0, towel extract until it shows clean to a healthy squeak.

Hydrating:
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 saturating the stain area and feather out for an even appearance.
2. Covering with tissue paper without airspace to trap wick up stains instead of remaining on the leather surface as it dries.
3. Peel tissue paper when crispy dry and use Eraser-4 to erase surface residue prior to fat and oil replenishing.

Fat and Oil Replenishing:
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 to precondition the leather prior to fat and oil replenishing.
2. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 and redistribute with foam brush until saturation.
3. Repeat application each time water contents evaporate until fully saturated.
4. Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with Hydrator-3.3.
5. Allow natural drying for extra softness.

Dry Prep:
1. Erase wick-up residue with Eraser-4 prior to repairs.

Adhesion Promotion Coating:
1. Apply Adhesor-73 by foam brush to seal surface uneven absorption rate and promote adhesion simultaneously.

Color Coating:
1. Apply color matching Micro-54 + 10% Thickener-48 for flow control and airbrushing for professional result.
2. Fine dry atomize dispersion with more air is achieve with 80 to 100psi of air pressure.
3. Light spray is preferred and let dry in between coats to build up colorcoat.

Topcoating:
1. Shake the product well and apply by airbrushing for professional result.
2. Use lint free paper towel to even out drips and streaks.
3. Speed dries between coats with help of hair dryer.
4. 2000-grit sanding may applies to improve touch and appearance.

Rub-Resistant Protection:
1. Mist sprays Protector-B redistribute with a foam brush / paper towel and ready for use when dry.

Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

Hi again,

Thank you very much for your answer and all your instructions. I highly appreciate your help and advice!

There are still a few questiins I have left. The restoring process described above sounds complicated and I was wondering if anyone can manage it, or if it should better be done by a proffessional hand. Is it really as difficult and complicated as it looks like/sounds?? I have no experience so far and I wonder if I can do more harm than good to the bag, if I do it by my self. Is it safe to do it myself following strictly every detail of your instructions? In such case, I am willing to try it.
In such a case, is it possible to order all the products and get them shipped to Norway? Do the products (in the kit) follow with a more detailed instruction or do I just follow your recommandation as described above?

I am also wondering if you would accept to do it for me, and if so, if I can send the bag from Norway to you, get it restored by you and get it shipped back again?? What would approximately be the costs for your work??

Thank you so much for all your help!!

Best regards, Irida

See this 2 thread from “Djensen”
http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...-and-repairing
and
http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...p-Shoulder-Bag

if you wish I do it for you.

You may email me [email protected] for more details if you wish to send it to me.

Option to do it yourself see this thread from “cyberclick”

http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...m-white-to-red

Let me know you option and we can continue from there.

Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]