Aniline (Sauvage) - Is repairing/restoring this couch something that an average homemaker can DIY?

I am interested in getting the Leather Doctor® Aniline Wax Pull-up Leather - Standard Care Kit AW3
How much is it and can it be shipped to the USA?

Thank you for the quick reply.
I have checked out the forum and there is lots of info there.
I have attached pictures of our couch and loveseat, which I believe, is wax pull-up leather.
Is repairing/restoring this couch something that an average homemaker can DIY?
Will I be able to get it back to its original color, luster, and softness?
Right now, it is really dry and scratched up.
Also, I have tried to use Leather CPR and Leather Honey, but they both seemed to make it stiff.
It would last for about a day and then go back to feeling really dry.

Western


#1
Attachment 1099

#2
Attachment 1100

#3
Attachment 1101

#4
Attachment 1102

#5
Attachment 1103

#6

#6
Attachment 1104

#7
Attachment 1105

#8
Attachment 1106

#9
Attachment 1107

#10
Attachment 1108

Leather Identification:
Pictures show that this leather is aniline dyed.
Pictures #9 & #10 show that there is no sign of a Wax Pull-up, it is just plain aniline dyed.
A wax effect condition is out of place for this leather.

Soiling condition:
Pictures show no sign of penetrated soiling to the headrest or the hand rest.

Leather Condition:
Picture #2 shows cushion leather looseness due to over stretching.
Solution to the problem: Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0

Finishes Condition:
Pictures #3, #9 & #10 show the contrasting color difference.
Solution to the problem: Strip existing deteriorated finishes and refinishing accordingly.
Solution to the problem is using Adhesor-73 to smoothen the surface prior to redyeing with Aniline-76 and topcoat with Aniline Top-21G.

Surface damaging:
Pictures #4, #7 & #8 show damages to the leather crust.
Solution to the problem is fine sanding with Adhesor-73 to build a smooth surface for dyeing and Topcoating.

Contrasting color panel:
Picture #5 shows the characteristic of aniline fading that reveals contrasting concentration of dye absorption.
Refinishing to even out the color intensity is done by airbrushing using coating dyestuff Aniline-76 over existing finishes.
A color mix of Red-Brown and Dark-Brown should bring back to the original color.

A simple badger Model 250 airbrush set and products mentioned is found in this Kit A7.cl – Aniline Leather Color Refinishing Kit is what you would need to accomplished what is recommended.


Attachment 1123
Kit A7.cl – Aniline Leather Dye Refinishing Kit


Roger Koh
[email protected]

So, I am sanding down the original leather, re-staining and restoring it, correct? Do I need to do this to the entire couch, or just the seat cushions and other areas that are worn? What about areas that aren't as bad as the other areas? Do I need to sand them all the way down, or just add some dye to re-darken the leather?

Do I need to use/get the Cleaner 3.8?

Caution on Sanding:
Sanding is meant to remove old finishes, that is crack and easily detect when you run your finger across, example would be picture #9 above.
Otherwise new finishes on deteriorated finishes will just be as bad. Sanding on existing finishes will reveal a white powder and this is OK. Sanding directly on the leather is bad, as the more, the leather is sand the rougher the fiber is. All leather damages surface is corrected with Adhesor-73 to bring back the smooth skin.

Restoration Process with Kit A7.cl

Preparing Leather Surface for Refinishing:
This process is accomplished with different methods to match the leather finish condition ranges from bare-naked leather to almost untouched leather in some places. The idea is to remove deteriorated finishes entirely without damages to the leather surface especially when sanding is concern. Eraser-4 for scrubbing will be idea in such places to remove the deteriorated finishes without causing damages to the leather crust. Scrubbing can be combined with Stripper-2.3 with towel extraction as well. Degreasing is the final steps in combination with Eraser-4 scrubbing to ensure the removal of both surface and penetrated grease and oil if any.
Suspended soiling is rinse off with Acidifier-2.0. At the end of this phase, the leather is ready to move into the next to rejuvenate the leather structure.

Leather Rejuvenating:
Leather rejuvenating is primary concerning the thickness of the leather. The leather structure has to be preconditioned right prior to fat and oil replenishing with Fatliquor-5.0. The functions of the Hydrator-3.3 is multifold and is achieved according depending on the need. Example in picture #2 there may be penetrated oil and grease from the armrest that need further wicking them to the surface. Picture #1 cushion over-stretch, may be corrected by relaxing reducing the excess creases and wrinkles. It is best to saturate up to 48 hours and manipulate them to shape accordingly prior to fatliquor replenishing. Fatliquor replenishing is to saturate the leather in an evenly fashion and as the water content evaporates, it is repeated until absorbency reduces. A fully saturated leather has a moisture content of up to 14% by weight.

Dry Preparation:
Eraser-4 is the final preparation prior to refinishing and is used to eraser of wick-up residue and any darkening effect prior to refinishing.

Refinishing – Sealer Coating:
Adhesor-73 is used to built abraded leather for a smooth skin; example would be for picture #4. The entire leather surface is then coated with foam brush to have an even absorption prior to Aniline-76.

Refinishing – Dye Coating:
Dye coating is done with Aniline-76, using a simple foam brush or for professional result use a simple airbrush Badger S250 (a six years old can do it). The idea when comes to spraying is to adjust more airflow with less feed to give a very dry spray with better control. As these are transparent dyes fine spraying build up the color saturation accordingly, will match up the panel color difference easily especially for picture #5. With the right technique this back entire panel will looks as one panel.

Refinishing – Top Coating:
Topcoating besides sealing the dyestuff from rubbing off will also determine the luster of the finish accordingly. AnilineTop-21G gloss topcoat is stronger than the matte, and the luster sheen may be adjusted with a mix to produce a satin finish.

Rub-Resistant Protection:
Rub-resistant reduces friction wear to the finishes especially the cushions shown in picture #10 with Protector-B+.


Do I need to use/get the Cleaner 3.8?

Kit A7.cl is a refinishing kit and Cleaner-3.8 is superseded by Stripper-2.3 and Degreaser-2.2. Cleaner-3.8 come in play for routine, periodic or restorative cleaning.


Tips:
Kit A7.cl is the recommended kit to set up into the right direction for restoring this leather sets. However, it is surely not enough to finish the sofa and the loveseat.
I would suggest you only test out the system on the front kick-board of the loveseat as shown in Picture #6.

Take pictures of each step as practice for the remaining areas, you will then know how much supplies you will need for the rest.


Below are the general instruction and description from Kit A7.cl

Instruction:

1A.) Preparation Cleaning - Sunlight Fading Unused Areas
1. Use fine 2000-grit sanding paper and sand by hand with a sanding pad, turning deteriorating topcoat into a whitish powder.
2. Shake Degreaser-2.2 to gel prior to use.
3. Transfer to Eraser-4, scrub the surface to an even appearance and towel extract until it shows clean.
4. Existing topcoat is wet sand to achieve an even feather out appearance as necessary.
5. Spray Rinse-3.0, towel extract until it shows clean and check for a healthy squeak.

1B.) Preparation Cleaning - Partially Worn Areas
This refers to the typical seat cushions that have worn finishes at the body contact areas with uneven wear.
1. Spray Stripper-2.3 to the unused area to remove existing finishes to even out with the worn areas.
2. Work the stripping with Eraser-4 / 2000-grit sanding and towel extraction for an even appearance.
3. Shake Degreaser-2.2 to gel prior to use.
4. Transfer to Eraser-4; scrub the used area, feather out for an even appearance and towel extract until it shows clean.
5. Spray Rinse-3.0, towel extract until it shows clean and check for a healthy squeak.

1C.) Preparation Cleaning - Body Oil, Grease and Sweat Areas
This refers to the headrest and armrest with darkening, prolongs stains with possible denaturing of leather, and damages to the finishes.
1. Spray Stripper-2.3 to remove existing finishes entirely to the entire section to even out the finishes.
2. Working the stripping with Eraser-4 / 2000-grit sanding and towel extract for an even appearance.
3. Shake Degreaser-2.2 to gel prior to use.
4. Transfer to Eraser-4, saturate the stain area, feather out and let it dwell 10 to 30minutes and towel extract until it shows clean.
5. Spray Acidifier-2.0, towel extract until it shows clean and check for a healthy squeak.


2A.) Hydrating to Achieve an Even Appearance
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 to inspect for a surface even appearance.
2. Correct surface tension with Stripper-2.3, 2000-grit Sanding or Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 accordingly.

2B.) Hydrating to Rectify Leather Stiffness
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 to saturate stiff leather.
2. Check for optimum saturation with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
3. Cover with cling wrapper to control evaporation and allow the product to dwell until the leather is relaxed.

2C.) Hydrating to Activate Dormant Dyestuff to Resurface
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 to saturate sunlight faded Areas and feather out to the edge
2. Check for optimum saturation with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
3. Cover with cling wrapper to control evaporation and allow dwelling at least for a day with no limit for effective redistributing of dyestuff to the surface.

2D.) Hydrating to Effect Structural Colloidal Water Movement
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 to saturate penetrated stain area.
2. Check for optimum saturation with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
3. Cover the stain area with wet flat tissue paper without airspace to trap wick-up soiling particulates as it dries through.
4. Peel off tissue paper when completely dry and erase surface soiling particulates with Eraser-4.


3.) Fat and Oil Replenishing
1. Apply Fatliquor-5.0 and redistribute with foam brush until saturation.
2. Repeat application each time water contents evaporate until fully saturated.
3. Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with Hydrator-3.3.
4. Allow natural drying for extra softness.


4.) Dry Prep
Objective of a dry prep is to prepare the surface free of surface residue and trims and other areas are sealed off.
1. Work the entire surface with Eraser-4, wipe and blow off all surface residues.


5.) Sealer Coating
Objective of a sealer coating is to fill and even out uneven penetration of the leather crust and improve adhesion for surface dye refinishing.
1. Apply Adhesor-73 by padding to worn areas and feather out to even surface porosity and luster appearance.

6.) Dyestuff Coating
Objective of dyestuff coating is to impart the color aesthetic onto the surface. Transparent color intensity is build up by layers in between drying. Excess is dapped away from vertical panels with lint free towel or sponge. Minimum airbrush recommended is the economical and simple to use Badger Model S250 with optimum air pressure at 80 to 100psi for a finer spray.
1. Apply Aniline-76 by airbrushing evenly over the entire surface one section at a time.
2. Let dry in between coating with heat blower.

7.) Topcoat Coating
1. Shake AnilineTop-21G well and transfer to spray bottle.
2. Adjust to the optimum spraying pattern and spray a section at a time.
3. Speed dries between coats with help of heat dryer.
4. Use 2000-grit sanding to improve feels of hand if necessary.


8.) Rub-Resistant Protection
1. Mist sprays Protector-B+ redistribute with a paper towel and ready for use when dry.


Products Description:

Leather Doctor® Stripper-2.3 (120ml)
Leather Doctor® Stripper-2.3 is a pH 2.3 duality residue free hydrocarbon formulated leather finish stripper with bleeding control. It is use to remove existing old finishes or new overspray for all leather types.

Leather Doctor® Adhesor-73 (60ml)
Leather Doctor® Adhesor-73 is an auxiliary for refinishing pigmented, aniline, bicast and simulated leathers. This is a waterbased compact resin adhesion promoter to ensure proper adhesion prior to color coating. Also used after Wax Effect-8.6 prior to topcoat application.

Leather Doctor® Aniline-76 (60ml)
Leather Doctor® transparent dyestuff is for coating over existing finishing topcoat. This lively and brilliant new generation aqueous dyestuff provides a more superior light fastness and fades resistance than most standard liquid dyes. To stain directly into the leather use Aniline-21 instead.

Leather Doctor® AnilineTop-21G (60ml)
Leather Doctor® AnilineTop-21G is a gloss finishes waterbased soft polyurethane leather topcoat. It is lightfast and non-yellowing. It has excellent flow and leveling properties. It is recoatable and forms a flexible film coat. It gives good performing results from friction wear. Email [email protected] for prices in 250ml, quart or trade prices.

Leather Doctor® Degreaser-2.2 (120ml)
Leather Doctor® Degreaser-2.2 is a pH 2.2 leather-safe waterbased degreaser with dye bleeding control. It is design for degreasing leather of penetrated oil, grease and sweat stains from skin and hair contact, especially the headrest and armrest of upholstery, collar and cuffs of garment including handles of bag. It works best in conjunction with Rinse-3.0 to rinse emulsified soiling or Acidifier-2.0 for rinsing and pH balancing sweaty contamination from leather denaturing into rawhide. This universal leather degreaser is for all leather types including the common pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck and suede.

Leather Doctor® Acidifier-2.0 (250ml)
Leather Doctor® Acidifier-2.0 is a waterbased pH 2.0 leather acidifier designs for controlling dye bleeding in conjunction with Degreaser-2.2 in extreme prolong oil, grease and sweat decontamination system. As a standalone, it is for pH balancing alkaline overexposure that manifest as marks, streaks, brightness and tackiness. This universal acidifier is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin leather types.

Leather Doctor® Rinse-3.0 (250ml)
Leather Doctor® Rinse-3.0 is a pH 3.0 waterbased leather-safe universal rinse for all leather types that include pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck and suede. It is to removes suspended soiling by towel extraction while neutralizing harmful alkaline residues and charging the protein fiber ionic positive to increase the attraction between the ionic negative leather constituent like the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor.

Leather Doctor® Hydrator-3.3 (250ml)
Leather Doctor® Hydrator-3.3 is a waterbased pH 3.3 leather-safe hydrator. It is a fatliquor preconditioner with multi functional abilities. Surface application is primary to check for even surface tension free of blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. Structural application will require saturating to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. The multi functional abilities include: a) to check for surface tension for an even appearance free from blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. b) To plumps, relaxes and separates crushed, shrunk and stick together fibrils for manipulating away-unwanted creases and wrinkles. c) To rectify alkaline overexposure areas by facilitating colloidal water movement to redistribute the leather constituents from surrounding areas. d) To activate the dormant dyestuff within the leather structure for color refreshing. e) To facilitates colloidal water movement within the inter-fibrillary spaces for wicking foreign soiling particulates to resurface. f) To stabilize, pH balance and charge the protein fiber below its iso-electric point (pI) ionic positive to hydrogen bond with the ionic negative fatliquor more effectively. This universal Hydrator-3.3 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.

Leather Doctor® Fatliquor-5.0 (250ml)
Leather Doctor® Fatliquor-5.0, a micro emulsion of fat, oil and water is an anionic charged pH 5.0 fatliquor for rejuvenating all leather types. It relaxes coarse breaks, creases and wrinkles enhance suppleness and prevent cracking. It softens the leather with stretchability, compressibility and flexibility, while enhancing its rip tensile strength greatly. It is for replenishing the original fat and oil that diminishes thru sun-bleaching, ageing, heat and alkaline overexposure or cleaning. On application, the water-encased molecule breaks free when hydrogen bond attraction takes place between the fat and oil with the protein fiber. The excess free water content wicks out leaving a breathing space behind for leather natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness from easily collapsing into creases and wrinkles during stress or flex, while the oil lubricates the fibers so that they slide over one another smoothly like millions of inter-connecting hinges. Thus helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing. This universal Fatliquor-5.0 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.

Leather Doctor® Protector-B+ (120ml)
Leather Doctor® Protector-B+, a buttery-feel with a classic leather scent is design for pigmented, aniline and nubuck oil pull-up leather types. This is a non-film forming, non-stick, rub-resistant protector that enhances a soft natural tactile feel for imparting a breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling and preventing the too common pesky ballpoint from ever ready rolling out its nasty ink. Moreover, for helping to release those tenacious blue jeans dye-transfer stains obviously on light colored leathers easily. Its natural buttery-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch; scuff and abrasion with reduce friction squeaks.

Leather Eraser-4
Eraser-4 is a 2½ x 2¼ x ¾ inch foam rubber sponge block with a crepe side for effective dry/wet soil removal.

Leather Brush-1 (1pc)
Brush-1 is a horsehair detailing brush design ergonomically to be an extension of our hand with a sturdy grooved grip. It is design to produce effective result easily and efficiently. It is recommend for all smooth leather for a soft and scratch-free cleaning. Its length is 7 inches with a three-row bristle 1½ inches cleaning head.

3 inch Poly-Brush (2 pc)
3 inch Poly-Brush is a dense foam that resists tearing and shredding and carries more material. It has a solid wood handle that allows greater control for quality results. It is use for controlling and spreading fatliquor for a more even distribution.

Paper Towel Rags (5 pc)
Paper Towel Rags work like cloth, lint free, highly absorbent and washable. General application is for extracting suspended soiling or for spreading hydrator, fatliquor or protector. It is use for both dye and topcoat padding for smooth leathers.

First picture shows water after 1 minute on used and unused sides of leather.
Attachment 1474

Picture 2 shows where I can easily scratch with my fingernail.
Attachment 1475

Picture 3 is unused side of leather.
Attachment 1476


I'm not an expert at all on leather.
I'm not sure what wax pull-up leather looks/feels like, but this probably isn't it.
Not sure why the owner told me it was.
When we bought the sofa, it was hardly used and had a nice dark color and good soft feel.
Now it is lightened in color and definitely dry.

>>>I'm not an expert at all on leather.
I'm not sure what wax pull-up leather looks/feels like, but this probably isn't it.
Not sure why the owner told me it was.
When we bought the sofa, it was hardly used and had a nice dark color and good soft feel.
Now it is lightened in color and definitely dry.

Picture #1
Water test can't tell much to positively identify the leather as a Pull-up. The unused area should be absorbent as well. In comparison a pull-up is more absorbent than a gloss aniline.

Picture #2
To identify a pull-up is to stretch or pull it to show a lightening of color. This test shows a topcoat damages instead (perhaps the wax effect is totally dried up to be the reason).

Picture #3
We can see some wax effect characteristic in this picture as compared to above picture #10 (that has a mono-tone look).

There is a very high possibility that the original leather is in fact an aniline wax pull-up, due to the extreme dryness of both the fatliquor and the wax effect the softness of the leather suffers.


Let me know if you like to do a sample testing for a complete restoration to both the leather structure and finishes to picture #3

Roger
www.LeatherDoctor.com

The first pic shows the leather before I stretched it.

Attachment 1487


2nd pic - stretching (you can see a little lightening by the thumb)

Attachment 1488

3rd pic - shows the leather after the stretch and you can see that it lightens a little bit, but not a lot

Attachment 1488


4th pic - I found a tag buried under on of the cushions. Amongst other things, it does say "pull-up" on it.

Attachment 1489


Yes, let me know what sample testing can be done to correctly identify the sofa, if needed.

I would love to be able to restore this couch. If it is a pull-up, does it need to be restored to a pull-up or can it have a different finish so that it does not easily show every little scratch/scuff mark that happens? I can easily scratch it with my fingernail. It doesn't scratch through the leather, it scratches the top surface color leaving lots of light marks everywhere.

>>>Yes, let me know what sample testing can be done to correctly identify the sofa, if needed.

Your stretch test has accurately identified the leather finish type as Aniline Wax Pull-Up, no further sample testing necessary.


>>>I would love to be able to restore this couch. If it is a pull-up, does it need to be restored to a pull-up or can it have a different finish so that it does not easily show every little scratch/scuff mark that happens?

You may restore it without replenishing the wax effect (this is a love it or hate it preference).


>>>I can easily scratch it with my fingernail. It doesn't scratch through the leather, it scratches the top surface color leaving lots of light marks everywhere.


Stretching or pulling affects the leather structure for a lightening effect only associated with pull-ups leather from either oil or wax.

Fingernails or other hard object scratches damages the surface finishes. Deteriorated areas are more easily scratch than the unused areas. Topcoat used for these finishes is AnilineTop-21G.



To retain extra softness to the leather, staining dyestuff Aniline-21 is used in this sequence of procedure:

Restoration with “Staining Dyestuff – Aniline-21”

Stripping Deteriorating Finishes:
• Stripper-2.3

Wet Preparation:
• Degreaser-2.2
• Rinse-3.0

Re-dyeing by Penetrating Staining:
• Aniline-21

Hydrating:
• Hydrator-3.3

Fatliquor Replenishing:
• Fatliquor-5.0

Top Coating:
• AnilineTop-21G

Non-Stick, Rub-Resistant Protection:
• Protector-B+



Restoration with “Coating Dyestuff – Aniline-76” as a typical
top-coated aniline leathers

Stripping Deteriorating Finishes:
• Stripper-2.3

Wet Preparation:
• Degreaser-2.2
• Rinse-3.0

Hydrating:
• Hydrator-3.3

Fatliquor Replenishing:
• Fatliquor-5.0

Sealing Repairs and Adhesion Coating:
• Adhesor-73

Re-dyeing by Surface Coating:
• Aniline-76

Top Coating:
• AnilineTop-21G or 76G

Non-Stick, Rub-Resistant Protection:
• Protector-B+

So, I can choose to either Stain Dyestuff 21 or Coat Dyestuff 76? What is best for the type of sofa I have? What would be best to help eliminate the ease at which scratch/scuff marks appear?

So, I can choose to either Stain Dyestuff 21 or Coat Dyestuff 76?

There are pros and cons by staining or by coating.

Staining is coloring below surface, will result in a softer leather but may not have an even appearance since it has to penetrate existing coating which was not there originally. The topcoating was applied thereafter. To do an effective re-staining the existing topcoat has to be completely removed with help of Stripper-2.3.
The entire surface has to be tested for surface tension with Hydrator-3.3 to determine the surface preparation to accept the staining dyestuff with and even absorbency. Otherwise there may be areas to appear darker as they absorb more. An example would be your scuff and abraded areas. These areas will be darker as they will absorb more, thus you have an patchy appearance, unless you go to dark-brown.

Coating the leather, the coating stays on the surface of the leather. Prior to coating the leather the entire surface is sealed with Adhesor-73 to reduce uneven absorbent rate from those surface damage areas. Coating the leather is easier to control than staining the leather, thus will produce a more even appearance.

What is best for the type of sofa I have?
This is personal preference; I would use the coating transparent dyestuff – Aniline-76.

What would be best to help eliminate the ease at which scratch/scuff marks appear?
If you do not like the pull-up effect, by not replenishing the wax effect and using Aniline-76 will reduce the stretch and scratch marks.

Thank you for all the info. I will go with coating the dye on the sofa. The kit mentioned above (Kit A7.cl – Aniline Leather Color Refinishing Kit) will do this, correct?

Yes and color of choice would be "antique-brown".

Test it out on the cushion reverse side to see if you are satisfied.

Sorry that this may seem too elementary, but what are the steps to test the dye color? Do I need to prep the reverse side of the cushion or just spray on the dye and compare the color?

Remember that we are dealing with “Transparent” dyestuff and we can see through the beauty of the blemishes as well.

Intensity of resultant color (final application) is either from dyestuff concentration or from color build up from layers of application.

This Aniline-76 color intensity can be further reduced with Adhesor-73.

You may test it out with a ratio droplets direct from the bottle of 1: 1, 2: 1, 3: 1, 4: 1, 5:1, etc. (Aniline-76: Adhesor-73).

Use these above sample and color onto the white cardboard, either as one application or with the lighter shades a few applications to the desired intensity to cover or camouflage unwanted blemishes.

Compare your test on the white cardboard against the darkest shade of existing leather and decide which formulation you wish to use.

You may show some of your testing and we can go further from there, how to test on the leather itself.

Next is how to test on the actual color – a few options is available.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant

I was able to use an airbrush and test the dye on a poster board using a 1:1 (aniline:adhesor) ratio. However, it has too much red/orange hue. I'm thinking I need to get the dark-brown one.

Attachment 3142

Try matching it against above picture #5 - the back panels of this couch.

This above picture is derive more from a mix of dark-brown and yellow.

These picks are taken against the back panels of the couch. I still think the dye looks too orangish.

Attachment 3165Attachment 3166

Example of popular color 1: 1: 1 ratio mix:

Yellow: Red-Brown: Dark-Brown = Antique Yellow-Brown

Orange: Red-Brown: Dark-Brown = Antique Orange-Brown



Orange or red may be eliminated by just going with a Dark-Brown and Yellow mixing ratio to derive at the desired color.

Ok, I will try the Dark-Brown dye.

Try mixing with your existing color with ratio 1: 1 and increase the dark-brown until you reach the desired color is also an option.

I don't have the dark-brown color. I only have the antique-brown dye. If I can find a dye locally, will it work with the A7.cl kit?

>>> I am considering the dark-brown dye. The original couch was closer to a chocolate color. The antiue-brown I purchased has too much orange undertones. Is the dark-brown more of a chocolate color?

This color triangle may give you some tips how color is derived from the primary color of Yellow: Red-Brown: Dark-Brown and you can adjust the ratio accordingly.

Note:
Using a "transparent" aniline color will give you a range of color depending on saturation or the number of application shifting from light to dark.

Attachment 3179

I am finally starting on the loveseat. As suggested, I am attempting to work on the front kick-board on pic #6. This is the starting pic. Attachment 5320

I applied the the Stripper 2.3 and used Eraser 4. I then applied the Degreaser gel and then Rinse, towel extracting afterwards. Towel showed no residue. I have now sprayed the Hydrator and it looks like the pic below. There is still the rough spots where top of the leather has been scratched. Do I continue on with the Fatliquor or back up and repeat a step? Attachment 5321

>>> There is still the rough spots where top of the leather has been scratched. Do I continue on with the Fatliquor or back up and repeat a step?

Go forward!

The function of the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system is not to rectify rough spots.
Rough spots is smoothen with Sandpaper 2000grit in conjunction with Bond-3D until it is smooth to the touch – this is a process under Dry Repair or Preparation prior to Adhesion Coat with Adhesor-73.
See the function of the Hydrator-3.3 from this link
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/hydrator-3-3/
to match existing condition, particularly Hydrator-3.3 is a pre-conditioner prior to Fatliquor-5.0 see link for more information
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/fatliquor-5-0/

Feel free to ask!

Careful that the leather surface is completely seal with Adhesor-73 prior to dye refinishing to have a more even appearance, otherwise blotchy appears from uneven absorbent rates. Transparent dyestuff works different from opaque pigment as each layers will increase in color intensity or saturation.

Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator / Practitioner / Consultant / Instructor / Coach
[email protected]

I purchased the Kit A7.cl, which did not include Bond 3-D. Is that something I need to get to rectify this rough feeling on the leather crust? Or use fine sanding with Adhesor-73 to build a smooth surface for dyeing and Topcoating (as previously mentioned)?
Pics after I applied Fatliquor.
Pic A
Attachment 5325
Pic B
Attachment 5326

>>> Bond-3D. Is that something I need to get to rectify this rough feeling on the leather crust?

Bond-3D works to smooth down the suede leather much easier with in between sanding – smooth to the touch.


>>> Or use fine sanding with Adhesor-73 to build a smooth surface for dyeing

Adhesor-73 may take more application to achieve the same result with in between sanding – smooth to the touch.


Note:
Make sure all scratches and abraded surface is finally sealed with no darkening effect when water tested prior to dyestuff coating application for an even appearance.

I finished the front kick-board and it looks great. However, if my kids slightly scratch it, it shows a mark. Is there anyway to counter that, or is that just the way pull-up wax couches are?

Also, I began working on one of the cushions to see how it will turn out. How do I know when I've applied enough Hydrator? I have used up the rest of the bottle and will need to order more, along with more of the other products to complete both couches.

>>> I finished the front kick-board and it looks great. However, if my kids slightly scratch it, it shows a mark. Is there anyway to counter that, or is that just the way pull-up wax couches are?

“Aniline Wax Pull-up” leathers gets scratches and scuff much easier than other upholstery finishes due to the wax effect present.
Rectifying is by a range of product used from:
Routine care with Protector-D or D+,
Periodic care with WaxEffect-86 to
Corrective care with AnilineTop-21G.
The above option to match the severity of the scuffs or scratches.


>>> How do I know when I've applied enough Hydrator?

Depends on the purpose of the Hydrator-3.3 being used.

Example, to soften up the leather or creases and wrinkles or reactivating the leather structure to release dyestuff to resurface – the leather has to be plump until a little moisture oozes out of the leather when gently press between thumb and fingers.

Example for inspecting for surface tension of any potential blotchiness either from Fatliquor-5.0 or coating dyestuff application – the leather surface should have an even appearance or even absorption rate.

Others:
The multi functional abilities include:
a) To check for surface tension for an even appearance free from blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing.
b) To plumps, relaxes and separates crushed, shrunk and stick together fibrils for manipulating away-unwanted creases and wrinkles.
c) To clean the leather of structural foreign contamination, the plump and limp leather is squeeze with towel laid between the leather and a smooth spatula or equivalent.
d) To rectify alkaline overexposure areas by facilitating colloidal water movement to redistribute the leather constituents from surrounding areas.
e) To activate the dormant dyestuff within the leather structure for color refreshing.
f) To facilitates colloidal water movement within the inter-fibrillary spaces for wicking foreign soiling particulates to resurface.
g) To stabilize, pH balance and charge the protein fiber below its iso-electric point (pI) ionic positive to hydrogen bond with the ionic negative fatliquor more effectively.

Instruction:

A. Surface Tension Inspection:
A1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 evenly and wipe with lint free towel to free of surface tension for an even appearance prior to fatliquor replenishing.

B. Stiffness, Creases and Wrinkles:
B1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
B2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72hrs for softness.
B3. Manipulate by stretching and cross flexing to relax the leather to satisfaction prior to fatliquor replenishing.
B4. With satisfaction the Fatliquor-5.0 has to be immediately replenished while the leather is perhaps at 25% Hydrator-3.3 moisture level.

C. Cleaning:
C1). A combination of cleaning while saturating the leather is done with horsehair Brush-1 on the surface and towel extracting it. Deep cleaning beneath the surface from the leather structure for liquid stain is done with squeezing the leather with a smooth spatula with a towel in between to reduce abrasion and absorbing the foreign contamination – See F below

D. Rectify Alkaline Overexposure:
D1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
D2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell for redistributing of the leather constituents from surrounding area.
D3. Observe for appearance and test by finger for tactile squeaky feel prior to fatliquor replenishing.

E. Activating Dormant Dyestuff to Resurface:
E1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
E2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for excess dyestuff to resurface.
E3. Remove plastic cover and let it natural dry to observe color improvement prior to fatliquor replenishing.

F. Removing Penetrated Stains:
F1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
F2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for foreign soiling particulates to resurface.
F3. Remove plastic wrapping, replace with tissue paper without airspace to trap stains as it dries instead of remaining on the surface. Recommend that Fatliquor-5.0 is replenished in combination at this stage especially if the leather has already show signs of cracking.
F4. Peel tissue paper when crispy dry and erase with Eraser-4 or Eraser-5 for suede accordingly prior to fatliquor replenishing.

Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator / Practitioner / Consultant / Instructor / Coach