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Hi Roger,
After using your great solutions - Starter Kit V3 , I encountered the same problem with osnoneo.. Some parts lightened, but some still dark.. I am attaching photos for your clear reference. Sorry, the photos cannot be attached. I will just email you the photos for your review.
Thank you,
Apple
Those locations that have sweat contamination would require repeat deep degreasing and rinsing, further bringing out these contamination need to be plump with hydration in this process of: Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 > Hydrator-3.3
My post above #4 explained the how-to…
The handle of this Coach bag shows the sweat contaminated location can be lighten more than the other surrounding areas, but it is not a fair comparison as it was not as severe as the LV pictures above.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...rkoh/013-2.jpg
Hi Roger,
I am also encountering the same problem as esnoneo's problem with the leather vachetta straps/belts. Some parts of the belt/straps lightened, but other part did not lighten - still dark brown
What I normally do, is to repeat the procedure in the dark area, but still the same..
My other problem is - how to dry these leathers. Please advise how-to-dry-them-up, now that it is rainy season until December. Because previously, if I see that the leather is already light and dry, I call my clients to pick-up their bags. But when it rains, the vachetta leather returns to being dark again. I am afraid to use blow-dry as it may burn the leather.
This shows that the innermost part of the leather is still wet ! Please help what to do. Do I have to buy a humidifier or dry box ? This is very costly.. Is there any other way to do ?
When my clients picks up their bags, I see to it that there is enough dessicant inside, to keep it a bit dry. I am also afraid to release the bags to my clients if not dried well because they will not be happy with the cleaning service I rendered them.
Of course, I want my clients to leave my shop smiling, so they will be surely coming back for another service. Please advise the proper way to do on how to dry well the leathers during rainy season and how to get rid of returning the leather to dark brown again after becoming light in color.
Thanks,
Apple
The magic to the solution is to get the sticky soiling out of the absorbent leathers.
If it is still there, it’s evident that it is not thoroughly degreased.
Degreaser-2.2 has two functions, deep degreasing into the leather structure and pH neutralizing the alkaline shifting sweat contamination back to its pH neutral of the 3 – 5 chemistry integrity.
Suspended soiling particulates are rinse with a pH 3.0 rinse to a healthy squeaky feel.
If tackiness or sliminess is detected it means that either the contamination is still there that need to further degrease or its already clean and pH is still high that would require Acidifier-2.0 to rectify it.
Hydrator-3.3 helps to plumps the leather and floats suspended soiling particulates in the wicking process.
Advanced technique discuss above applies especially cling plastic wrapping for effective dwelling.
When the leather is crispy dry further mechanical erasing is limited to only Eraser-4 avoiding the removal of leather surface as it gets rougher with unnecessary abrasion with no ends.
Inspection is done to assess the progress, take note that every repeat degreasing will shrink the area of the darken contamination, until it is completely gone.
It is wise to take pictures and compare the progress.
I have done it so I know; it is not easy but need patience to do this kind of job.
It is only easy when you master the technique with practice.
It is easier watching some expert doing it, reading the above is only a guide.
When this degreasing stage is over, the rest is pretty straight forward.
Like using the Eraser-4, stretching the leather will lighten the appearance too.
Using d'Tarnish-1.3 to bleach the tanning that darkens is straight forward just waiting it to dry.
Fatliquor replenishing will darkens it again.
Is it acceptable to darken it again after all the effort to lighten it, is the lightening effort really is a waste, not so.
The lightening effort is to eliminate foreign contamination especially the degreasing effort rather than depending on the bleaching.
Fatliquor does not stain the leather like that of hand contacts.
It mellows the original pale biscuit color with a natural tan.
Softens the leather, gives it extra strength and prevents from cracking.
Moreover healthy “dry” leather should have an average of 14% moisture content and much of this moisture comes from the fatliquor.
Sufficient fatliquor makes leather less absorbent, therefore prolonging the usage of the leather for better appearance.
The leather-scent infused version is Fatliquor LS-5.5 and will impart the unforgettable classic leather scent that charms.
A non-film forming protection that allows the leather to breathes is using Protection-D+ (Leather Scent-D).
It imparts a natural draggy feel that self heals scuff marks.
It’s provides a natural water shower proofing making the leather more resistant to liquid staining.
The total sum of what I have described is not what you are looking for in the first place.
If you can accept the natural characteristic of what this leather is suppose to be minus the sweat contamination you and your customer will be much happier.
Other than what I've said, don’t try to kick against the prick – which the leather after decontamination has to return to the pale biscuit new-like impractical appearance.
On the contrary, I have advice vachetta leather owners to forget about the pale biscuit look and instead fatliquor and protect it to season it naturally prior to use.
This natural seasoning prolongs the leather appearance from hand contact staining looking good longer.
This change of mindset may bring you more business as now you can offer this preventive maintenance services direct to the store.
You may have to rethink the vision and the mission of your enterprise in terms of service performance and delivery.
Roger Koh
[email protected]
Hi Roger,
Thanks for your detailed explanation. However, I'd like to advise that since it is rainy season in Phil (July to December), these leathers are very difficult to dry. Per my understanding, before you use each solution, or before proceeding to the next procedure, I have to dry the leather well.
How can I dry it ? If rainy season, the room temp is also a bit colder, thereby, it takes longer time to dry the leather..
By using soft, dry cloth ? If I use this cloth, still, the leather is still damp on the topmost portion of leather's skin and the inside leather is still wet. Is it alright to proceed to the next procedure even if the leather is not very dry ?
I am attaching photos of the "treated leather". Procedure proceeded after using soft dry cloth to dry the leather
Oppsss, I have to retrive again the photos. Please wait..
Roger,
After following your instructions on degreasing, I am having a hard time drying the vachetta leather after degreasing - rinse. I normally dry the vachetta leather by using soft dry cotton fabric, but since it's always raining, it takes time to dry the leather.
In some case, I thought the leather is already dry because I see that the vachetta leather is already light in color because it's sunny day. But the following day, the treated leather darkened again because it is raining. Does this mean - the innermost part of the leather is not dry yet ?
Is there any other way to dry it faster ? Can a humidifier or dry-oven help ? I am afraid, I might lose my clients if it takes longer time to dry these leathers. Please help !
Fatliquor replenishing is an integral process of degreasing to maintain the moisture level. Otherwise it will easily reabsorb moisture from the atmosphere where the humidity is high and easily stain again from hand contact.
Dehumidifier boot or small room set-up is the recommended drying device for fast drying.
Here is the cut and paste for degreasing Vachetta leathers.
■ Vachetta Leather Degreasing System
Degreasing process involves two steps; first is the sufficient penetration of Degreaser-2.2 to react with the grease and second is to bring out the grease with Rinse-3.0. This process may be repeated depending on the depth of grease penetration. An advance technique is to cling wrapped to control evaporation for a more effective dwell time for the both steps.
Instructions
1st Phase Degreasing:
1] Warm Degreaser-2.2 up and shake very well until it turns to an opaque gel.
2] Apply direct and agitate with horsehair Brush-1 to penetrate into the stain.
3] Let dwell 5 to 30 minutes or before it dries for chemical reaction to occur, follows with towel extraction.
4] Suspended residue is to be rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract until towel shows clean.
5] Let dry and inspect:
5a] Dark spots can be lightened with stretching from the reverse side with leather Spatula-6 or a tip of a teaspoon.
5b] Wicks up residue to be erased with Eraser-4.
2nd Phase Hydrating:
1] Spray Hydrator-3.3 with help of foam brush to penetrate the leather for an even appearance.
2] Proceed to fatliquoring while the leather has an even damp appearance.
3th Phase Fatliquoring:
1] Fatliquor-5.0 follows the same procedure as the Hydrator-3.3, with in between drying even application as moisture evaporates.
2] The rejuvenated leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
3] Inspect for even appearance and remove wicks up residue with Eraser-4 prior to Leather Scent-D application.
4th Phase Non-stick Rub Resistant Protection:
1] Spray Leather Scent-D, spread with lint free towel for an even appearance and it’s ready to use when dry.