New car care/protection?

Hi folks,

I just stumbled on this forum after spending weeks helplessly confused by conflicting advice. I just bought a new 2014 Acura MDX, which has leather interior seats (I cannot seem to confirm what type--best guess is pigmented or semi-aniline, but I can't find this in writing anywhere). It is brand new and clean at the moment, but will be heavily used by my two little boys, currently 2 & 4 years old. I'd appreciate your help answering the following questions:

- what care/protection/products, if any, should be applied now to the brand new vehicle to help protect the seats? Any particular products/brands? (I've read such conflicting things...from oily conditioners to water-based fluorocarbon protectants to nothing)
- the vehicle will be equipped with child seats, which are strapped down under high tension, compressing the seat cushions to some extent. Aside from seat covers (which my wife is not cool with for safety reasons), is there anything specific you would do to protect the seats?
- what should be done in the future to clean/protect? when should this be done?

Thanks so much in advance for your time.

Chad

>>> I just bought a new 2014 Acura MDX, which has leather interior seats (I cannot seem to confirm what type--best guess is pigmented or semi-aniline, but I can't find this in writing anywhere).

Post some good pictures both close-up and overall view and I shall help you positively identify it.


>>> what care/protection/products, if any, should be applied now to the brand new vehicle to help protect the seats?

When one take a look at the seat when used after a while, one can see that the most friction wear areas – especially the drivers seat booster – we see abrasion wear through the topcoat, pass the colorcoat and into the leather grain and further into the leather structure that suede. Friction rub is the most common problem that needs to be prevented to prolong the usage and aesthetic of the leather. This is done with a non-stick, rub-resistant, non-film forming, and buttery-feel protector with a classic leather scent or scentless. Product use is Leather Doctor® Protector-B+.


>>> Any particular products/brands? (I've read such conflicting things...from oily conditioners to water-based fluorocarbon protectants to nothing).

Basically there are 2 categories of conditioners, “surface conditioners” or protector and “structure conditioners”.

Surface conditioners takes care of the leather finishes, protects the topcoat from friction rubs, that protects and seals the colorcoat for cleaning durability and integrity, that also impart aesthetic with choice of luster reflection from gloss, satin, matte to dull. These surface conditioners are applied during “routine care” which is recommended from weekly to monthly especially on heavy wear areas.
Protector-B+ protects the leather from surface wear, besides imparting a non-stick surface that keeps the appearance longer.

Structural conditioners takes care of the leather structure that provides the leather with softness from stretching and compressing without collapsing into un-natural creases and wrinkles. Once creases develop it may become an eyesore when soiling starts to accumulates. Creases and wrinkles with uneven surface become more evident with uneven wear. The leather tensile strength depends on the structural conditioner as well, when leather is new the stitching holes and perforated holes when scrutinized will reveal an almost perfect round holes. These are the weak part of the leather as well. As the structural conditioners dries or diminished the round holes slowly becomes elongated and will eventually split or cracks. Preventive periodic care is recommended to these weak exposed leather without any protection (the cross section is suede), from monthly to 4-monthly depending on humidity, exposure to direct sunlight and wet cleaning. When these holes are subject to wetness during cleaning it is recommended that they be hydrated prior to conditioning.
Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system protects the leather integrity of the leather keeping it soft from cracking and prevents elongation or stitch tearing and perforated holes cracking.


>>> the vehicle will be equipped with child seats, which are strapped down under high tension, compressing the seat cushions to some extent. Aside from seat covers (which my wife is not cool with for safety reasons), is there anything specific you would do to protect the seats?

Recommended that the contact areas be well protected with extra “rub-resistant” protection to prevent premature wear. Choice of protector without scent is to use Protector-B (without the “+” sign).


>>> what should be done in the future to clean/protect? when should this be done?


Use this Pigmented Auto (P.a) problem solving guide and initial care system is found in this Kit Ap3 from this link: http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...Kit-Ap3/Detail


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com


Attachment 2396



Attachment 2397
Leather Doctor® Kit Ap3, auto pigmented (perforated) leather care kit is an innovative leather-safe (pH 3 - 5) system designed for keeping leather interior at their highest level of appearance while maintaining their structural chemistry integrity and enhancing their suppleness with needle holes tear strength. Auto leathers are often under hot sun and those exposed to thermal heating during cold season dries out their fat and oil sooner. The first place to check for leather dryness is the stitching holes, if they are perfectly round the leather is healthy, dried out leathers will show signs of elongation or splits. The diminishing of the fat and oil will results in stiffness to the leather and when flexed or stretched during used will lead to cracks or rips first to the stitching holes. Periodic use of Hydrator-3.3 to hydrate the stick together fibers in these weak points prior to fat and oil replenishing with Fatliquor-5.0 will keep the leather supple with increase tensile strength. Thus, reduce the premature ageing of the leather against stiffness, tearing and cracking. Protector-B+ impart a non-stick rub resistant protection with a buttery feel that makes sliding in and out of seat smoothly. The rub-resistant abilities reduce friction noises that translate into less friction wear especially to the side bolster. Periodic cleaning and rinsing with Cleaner-3.8 and Rinse-3.0 respectively to the steering wheel leather helps reduce greasy sticky soiling build-up. Removing of unwanted stains such as the common new blue jeans is accomplished with Prep-7.7. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this leather-safe holistic care system.

Instruction:

Preventive Care:
A non-stick, rub-resistant protection is recommended to be in place before putting the leather to daily use. Protector-B+ imparts a soft natural buttery-feel that enhances the leather luxuriously to the sense of touch. The non-stick surface shields the leather from sticky soiling thus prolonging the high level of appearance. Rub-resistant abilities reduce friction noises that translate into less friction wear as one slide in and out of auto seats effortlessly with less stress to the seat bolsters. This leather-scented protector diffuses a classic leather scent that boost the sensuous leather more appealing to the leather lover. This protection care commences at the end of each level of routine, periodic or restorative cleaning cycle. A simply spray and wipe prolongs the need for cleaning heavy soiling.
1. Apply Protector-B+ to the seats and Protector-D to steering wheel including the gear shift knob after shaking well spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

Routine Care:
Routine care includes procedures such as general dust cleaning, attending to spots and stains as required especially the neutralizing of swear stains from shifting alkaline. Thus prevents leather from tackiness. A routine non-stick rub resistant protection after neutralizing rinse helps keep leather interior in a more attractive and healthy state while preventing premature wear.
1. Spray Rinse-3.0, horsehair Brush-1 agitates and towel extract until it shows clean.
2. Apply Protector-B+ to the seats and Protector-D to steering wheel including the gear shift knob after shaking well spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

Periodic Care:
Periodic care is recommend before soiling causes damages to the finishing. This keeps leather consistently clean and healthy at all times. Driver’s seat would require more frequent attention than the other less frequent used seats. While the leather steering wheel and the gearshift knob get the most of body oil and sweat contacts.

1st phase – Periodic Care:
1. Spray Cleaner-3.8 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1; ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
2. Towel extract until it shows clean.
3. Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky-clean.
4. Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat cleaning process as necessary or proceed to hydrating.

2nd phase – Hydrating:
Although pigmented leathers surfaces are usually non-absorbent until micro crazing develops, it is the stitching rows and perforated holes that are usually vulnerable. These weak areas when wet and dry again have the tendency for the fibrils to become stick together resulting in stiffness and when stressed may lead to premature cracks. Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure. Besides, charging the protein fiber ionic positive for a more effective hydrogen bonding with the ionic negative fatliquor.
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 control and spread with foam brush to hydrate especially the stitching rows and perforated sections.
2. Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes depending on severity of dryness with optional plastic cling wrapping to control evaporation for a longer dwell time to plumps the leather more effectively.

3rd phase – Fat and Oil Replenishing:
Fatliquor evaporates as VOC (volatile organic compound) when temperatures rise especially from exposed micro crazing, perforation and stitching rows. Periodic fat and oil replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability thus strengthen these exposed leather from cracking.
1. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally.
2. Repeat application in between drying until saturated.
3. Leave the leather for slow natural drying for extra softness.
4. Wipe surface strays with Hydrator-3.3 to free of sticky residue.

4th phase – Preventive Care:
1. Apply Protector-B+ to the seats and Protector-D to steering wheel including the gear shift knob after shaking well spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

Restorative Care:
Restorative care is the ultimate corrective or salvage care system that removes accumulated soiling including aged conditioners to its original OEM finishes. Accumulated soiling that fills creases is often mistaken for cracks. Restorative cleaning is performed by using Prep-7.7. It works by chemical reaction to emulsify soiling through its penetrating, lubricating and suspending power. Its thick as honey viscosity facilitates coating the surface for effective dwell time. Horsehair detailing Brush-1 is recommended to worked into heavily soiled areas sufficiently to avoid excessive agitation that might damage already weaken finishes especially on heavily used areas. For extreme cases, the Prep-7.7 can stay continuous for up to 72 hours to do its work safely.

1st phase - Restorative Cleaning:
1. Apply Prep-7.7 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1, ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
2. Allow a dwell time of 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries prior to towel extraction until it shows clean.
3. Sticky residue is removed by Cleaner-3.8 with gentle brush agitation and towel extraction until it shows clean.
4. Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky-clean.
5. Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat Prep-7.7 application with a longer dwell time as necessary or proceed to hydrating.

2nd phase – Hydrating:
Although pigmented leathers surfaces are usually non-absorbent until micro crazing develops it is the stitching rows and perforated holes that are usually vulnerable. These weak areas when wet and dry again have the tendency for the fibrils to become stick together resulting in stiffness and when stressed may lead to premature cracks. Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure besides charging it ionic positive for a more effective hydrogen bonding with the negative ionic fatliquor.
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 control and spread with foam brush to hydrate especially the stitching rows and perforated sections.
2. Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes depending on severity of dryness with optional plastic cling wrapping to control evaporation for a longer dwell time to plumps the leather more effectively.

3rd phase – Fat and Oil Replenishing:
Fatliquor evaporates as VOC (volatile organic compound) when temperatures rise especially from exposed micro crazing, perforation and stitching rows. Periodic fat and oil replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability thus strengthen these exposed leather from cracking.
1. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 control and spread with foam brush to hydrate especially the stitching rows and perforated sections.
2. Repeat application in between drying until saturated.
3. The leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
4. Surface strays are wipe with Hydrator-3.3 to free of sticky residue.

4th phase – Preventive Care:
1. Apply Protector-B+ to the seats and Protector-D to steering wheel including the gearshift knob after shaking well spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roger Koh

>>> I just bought a new 2014 Acura MDX, which has leather interior seats (I cannot seem to confirm what type--best guess is pigmented or semi-aniline, but I can't find this in writing anywhere).

Post some good pictures both close-up and overall view and I shall help you positively identify it.


>>> what care/protection/products, if any, should be applied now to the brand new vehicle to help protect the seats?

When one take a look at the seat when used after a while, one can see that the most friction wear areas – especially the drivers seat booster – we see abrasion wear through the topcoat, pass the colorcoat and into the leather grain and further into the leather structure that suede. Friction rub is the most common problem that needs to be prevented to prolong the usage and aesthetic of the leather. This is done with a non-stick, rub-resistant, non-film forming, and buttery-feel protector with a classic leather scent or scentless. Product use is Leather Doctor® Protector-B+.


>>> Any particular products/brands? (I've read such conflicting things...from oily conditioners to water-based fluorocarbon protectants to nothing).

Basically there are 2 categories of conditioners, “surface conditioners” or protector and “structure conditioners”.

Surface conditioners takes care of the leather finishes, protects the topcoat from friction rubs, that protects and seals the colorcoat for cleaning durability and integrity, that also impart aesthetic with choice of luster reflection from gloss, satin, matte to dull. These surface conditioners are applied during “routine care” which is recommended from weekly to monthly especially on heavy wear areas.
Protector-B+ protects the leather from surface wear, besides imparting a non-stick surface that keeps the appearance longer.

---

Thanks much, Roger! Attached below are a few pictures in full resolution--let me know if you need more to help identify (this was taken in the garage at night with the flash on my iPhone, fyi--so not the greatest light).

A couple follow-up questions: 1) above you refer to your "non-stick, rub-resistant, non-film forming, and buttery-feel protector...". Chemically, what is this (approximately? Water-based fluorocarbon protectant I keep reading about elsewhere, or something else? 2) I like your system and how you distinguish between a surface and structure conditioner. It seems much more comprehensive than anything else I've read or heard about. Just so I can put it in perspecitve compared with what I read elsewhere, where does a water-based fluorocarbon protector (like, say, 303) fit? How would you describe it? Thanks!

Attachment 2412Attachment 2413Attachment 2414

A couple follow-up questions:
>>> 1) above you refer to your "non-stick, rub-resistant, non-film forming, and buttery-feel protector...". Chemically, what is this (approximately? Water-based fluorocarbon protectant I keep reading about elsewhere, or something else?

Protector-B+ (leather-scented) is the buttery-feel protector for leather seats and Protector-D (scentless) is the draggy-feel non-slip version design for leather steering wheel and the gearshift knob. These 2 protectors are intermixable to custom it to produce the desired luster and leather-scent level. These are the ultimate non-fluorocarbon formulation used above on top of other forms of protection including the redundant fluorocarbon type to prolong their wear especially to friction wears with a buttery-feel.
There is no further reason to apply any fluorocarbon protector if the leather is already protected to resist water or liquid penetration. If water pools on the surface of the leather it is already waterproof to a degree. As leather ages or rather the topcoat ages, micro crazing develops and if one feels undesirable then a fresh topcoat is applied to seal the micro crazing making it a tight water resistant again. But what have we overlooked? The leather structure is overlook at this point and it is the right time to rejuvenate it prior to sealing the micro crazing once more. When leather rejuvenating is ignore at this time, while fat and oil has evaporated through these micro crazing the leather becomes stiff and when stress will develop creases and leads to cracks. So when conditioning leathers we often miss out the below surface that leads to premature cracks – starting from the stitching rows, perforated holes, creases and wrinkles.

Tips:
The function of conditioners is what one should look for, it falls into 2 categories “surface conditioners” and “structure conditioners”
Surface Conditioners main reason is to reduce surface wear, besides others.
Structure Conditioners main reason is to maintain the leather softness from cracking.


>>> 2) I like your system and how you distinguish between a surface and structure conditioner. It seems much more comprehensive than anything else I've read or heard about. Just so I can put it in perspecitve compared with what I read elsewhere,

Fluorocarbon protector either water or solvent based is primarily for waterproofing, shower-proofing just like wearing a latex gloves but short lived especially at the finger tips where it breaks often under friction wear. These products are usually applied on newly manufactured goods like a shirt and after one wash are gone. Apply to a suede collar and after the end of the day still soak with sweat. They are not design to withstand any friction rubs. Most popular water repellent fails after 10 rubs – frustrating! Do some testing yourself, take pictures and show us!

Compare with your already waterproof leather seats (water will pool on the surface even after 10 rubs). And in order to prolong the already waterproof topcoat, Protector-B+ with its buttery-feel rub-resistant helps.

Friction wears is noticeable from the sounds or noise it produce, the product that produces the least noise will be the product that will prolong the wear of the leather finishes.

Leather is sensuous and it should appeals to our senses:
a) the sense of touch – natural buttery-feel,
b) the sense of hearing – noise reduction translate to reduce wear when sliding in and out of seat.
c) the sense of sight – non-stick properties that prolong the beauty or cleanliness appearance of the leather.
d) The sense of smell – the unforgettable classic leather scent that charms.

The final surface conditioners should impart all these properties that enhance the leather holistically.


>>> where does a water-based fluorocarbon protector (like, say, 303) fit?

I am pretty convince that after one day of driving around with jeans, what ever fluorocarbon one applied is already rub off. Will there be any chance that one will stain the leather; yes sure it will if we wet our pants with uncontrollable bladder. The liquid just simply goes through the seams and wet the leather structure.

Note:
Liquid stain protection is pretty useless and pointless if it does not take care of seams in this pretty new leather. Do you think so?

For your information, Kit to takes care of the common rain water damages from moon or sun roof with or without aftermarket fluorocarbon protection, makes no difference.

Attachment 2416
Leather Doctor Kit At5.ws – Auto Leather Water Stain Removal Kit
Leather Doctor® Kit At5.ws, auto leather water-stain remover kit is design to remove water stains as the results of destabilizing the leather pH equilibrium. The side effect of alkaline overexposure manifests as marks and rings behaving like litmus paper. The darkening rings are leather constituents that breaks bond with the protein fiber and migrate forming the outer ring. Stains are clean with Cleaner-3.8 to remove surface residue prior to Acidifier-2.0. Acidifier-2.0 is a pH 2.0 leather pH stabilizer to neutralize the alkaline overexposure recharging the protein fiber ionic positive to re-attracts the ionic negative leather constituents. The leather is saturated and dwell up to 72 hours for extreme cases to facilitate redistribution and wicking up foreign contamination. A paper tissue covering without airspace helps trapped stains instead of remaining on the leather surface when dry. Hydrator-3.3 helps to redistributes the inter-fibrillary colloidal water movement; bringing the remaining stain to surface prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fatliquor-5.0 rejuvenates and imparts leather with softness and suppleness when dry. Protector-B+ enhances a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline leathers pH stabilizing system to eliminate water stains. Leather protein fiber is an amphoteric material while the other leather constituents like the tanning agents, dyestuffs and fatliquor are not. The iso-electric point (pI) of leather averages pH 4, water averages pH 7. Between pH 7 and pH 4 there is an ionic difference of 1000 (one thousand) times. Foreign pH influences below the pI charges the protein fiber ionic positive while above the pI causes the protein fiber to shift ionic negative. The ionic leather constituents and the protein fibers behave like magnets, unlike poles attracts.

Thanks again, Roger. I need to absorb this a bit. Were you able to confirm what type of leather I have from the pictures? Does it change the specific product recommendations? thanks

Pictures show leather “finishes” as auto pigmented, no difference if your is “Rolls Royce” as seen from these link:

http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...o-you-suggests

or

http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...o-you-suggests


All pigmented finishes products use the product from this range no difference if perforated or not.

http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...o-you-suggests

A non-stick, rub-resistant Protector-B+ will prevent many a headache for such a light pastel color shade. And preventive care is paramount to maintain its appearance besides soiling; dye transfer from clothing is a very common issue. And Protector-B+ reduces such problems and making it easier for removal as well. Imagine ballpoint ink when accidentally comes in contact will not discharge its nasty ink as its ball fails to rotate on a naturally buttery-feel, non-stick surface. Some features to think about!