Aniline (Full Mono-Tone) - High-end Buttery Leather about 2 years with Hair-oil Stain.

Hi Roger,
Actually the color I would need is very pale green like pale lime green.
Is the kit I am getting going to remove the color?
I am trying to do it for myself.
It is a nice high-end buttery leather and I have had the piece for about 2 years.
I bought it new so I would say the stay has been there since at least a year.
The chair otherwise is in excellent condition.
No scratches or other stains.
Just hair oil as you can see on the picture.
Not sure how to handle the stain without damaging the rest of the chair
I found out that the finish on the leather is a wax finish.
I was wondering if I could send you a leather sample and if that would help you help me?
Here is a picture of the chair I am trying to fix

Attachment 4162

>>> I received the kit. Now, could you walk me through the procedure?

Attachment 4226

Leather Doctor® Kit-A7.cl, aniline leather dye refinishing kit is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing from the simple sunlight fading to the severely sweat damages from body oil and grease. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected stains show a darkening effect with a sticky feel have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that the dyestuff has also break bonds with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or shows signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH imbalance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies greasy contamination besides controlling dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of a healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Custom redyeing commences prior to topcoat refinishing. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline leathers dyestuff and topcoat refinishing system.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roger Koh

>>> I received the kit. Now, could you walk me through the procedure?

Attachment 4226

Leather Doctor® Kit-A7.cl, aniline leather dye refinishing kit is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing from the simple sunlight fading to the severely sweat damages from body oil and grease. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected stains show a darkening effect with a sticky feel have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that the dyestuff has also break bonds with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or shows signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH imbalance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies greasy contamination besides controlling dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of a healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Custom redyeing commences prior to topcoat refinishing. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline leathers dyestuff and topcoat refinishing system.

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Ok, just to make sure: when applying the degreasing agent what is the tool I am supposed to use? Also how long do I have to wait before applying the Acidifier?

The first phase of the restoration process is to removes the unwanted oil and grease stains and the procedure is as follows:

1 – Removes the seat cushion away.

2 – Protect the floor with plastic covering.

3 – Lay the chair back so that the working panel is horizontal to the floor for better product flow control.

4 – Shake Degreaser-2.2 to gel prior to application with Eraser-4 with light agitation from the center outwards over 2 to 3 inches over the outer ring and saturating into the leather structure.

5 – Suspended soiling is cotton terry towel extracted until the towel shows clean, changing to new folding with each soiling pick-up.

6 – Acidifier-2.0 is applied, saturated into the thickness of the leather with a little agitation from the horsehair brush-1 or Eraser-4 and cotton terry towel extract accordingly.
Deep Degreasing:

7 – A fresh Degreaser-2.2 application is applied deep into the leather structure if visually the remaining stain is still beneath the surface.

8 – To bring the stain to the surface will need the help of Hydrator-3.3 to saturate it when the Degreaser-2.2 is almost drying and allow wicking through the special stretchable paper from the kit. This paper is to stretch tight with the help of horsehair Brush-1 while the hydrator is spray onto it. As the suspended soiling particulates wicks through the paper the soiling is trap by the paper and easily peel off when dry, rather than still remaining on the leather surface.

9 – Note! When the leather is too dry of its original fatliquor and all the contaminated grease and oil is pulled out the leather may crack when mishandled in the drying process. Therefore a little fatliquor (a 20% fatliquor into the 80% hydrator or a ratio of 1: 4 (hydrator) has to be introduced into the leather structure system to prevent the empty (of fatliquor) fibrils becoming stick together

10 – When completely dry, remaining residue is erased with Eraser-4 (make sure it is dry).

11 – This is a time for inspection and review the result before proceeding to leather rejuvenating it.
Show pictures, if possible with all the process for reference.

Please ask questions if you do not understand or is not clear about the above procedure.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
[email protected]

>>> when applying the degreasing agent what is the tool I am supposed to use?

Use horsehair Brush-1 to drive the degreaser-2.2 into the thickness of the leather.
For surface soiling removal using Eraser-4 gives better traction.


>>> Also how long do I have to wait before applying the Acidifier?

It takes time for chemical reaction or emulsification to take place and longer dwell time works more efficiently.
Before complete drying is the optimum time to begin applying the Acidifier-2.0 otherwise the suspended soiling begins to settle back into the fiber again.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roger Koh

>>> when applying the degreasing agent what is the tool I am supposed to use?

Use horsehair Brush-1 to drive the degreaser-2.2 into the thickness of the leather.
For surface soiling removal using Eraser-4 gives better traction.


>>> Also how long do I have to wait before applying the Acidifier?

It takes time for chemical reaction or emulsification to take place and longer dwell time works more efficiently.
Before complete drying is the optimum time to begin applying the Acidifier-2.0 otherwise the suspended soiling begins to settle back into the fiber again.

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Silly question: what side of the eraser should I use (one side is soft and spongy and one is hard

Always begin with soft side and in this case remains on the soft sides.

Hard side is for hard soiling if any.

Remember, always use mechanical action to the minimum to reduce surface physical damages.

>>> Please find attached pictures of the stain after I followed your procedure.
As you can tell the stain is still visible and dark.
What are my next steps?


>>> As you can tell the stain is still visible and dark.

Just like an iceberg more than 80% of the stain is beneath surface, such stains are easier to get if off from the reverse suede side where the pores are more open which is impossible in your case. All products have to reach below the stain sufficiently in order to wick them out. Extracting may include using towel to place between the leather and a smooth spatula or a spoon to scope or massage it (you may see in other thread some of these actions).

#1
Attachment 4227


#2
Attachment 4228


>>> What are my next steps?

As requested, pictures of every step are necessary for reference for review how effectively was conducted.
Next step is to start all over again and show pictures of every step.


These three pictures show topcoat refinishing without resorting to redyeing. There are many other threads in this forum that have similar issue and how they were overcomed.

#1 Shows the typical oil and grease head stain.
Attachment 4229


#2 Shows a complete degreasing with entire stripping with Razor-60 of the existing topcoat.
Attachment 4230


#3 Shows refinishing only with AnilineTop-21G.
Attachment 4231

Your picture #2 shows stains may be restricted by the existing topcoat.

By removing the topcoat entirely as shown in my example will ease the removal of stains below the topcoats.

And this tool may help to remove the topcoat found in this link: http://www.leatherdoctor.com/razor-60/

Attachment 4232

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roger Koh

Your picture #2 shows stains may be restricted by the existing topcoat.

By removing the topcoat entirely as shown in my example will ease the removal of stains below the topcoats.

And this tool may help to remove the topcoat found in this link: http://www.leatherdoctor.com/razor-60/

Attachment 4232

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Ok I have ordered the tool you recommended as well as another bottle of degreaser as I am running out.

>>> It is not working.

You will continue to see the same thing with seemingly little improvement even though the stains has been partially extracted during wet with towel and dry with Eraser-4. It only tells us that there are more inside just like an iceberg, you will continue see it until the bottom of the iceberg is off the water. In this type of situation it is easier to removed from the reverse suede side (unfortunately we can’t in this case) and the stains from the back may spread even bigger than as compare to the front.

Tips:
Try removing the suspended stains upwards at intervals during the drying cycle with the stretching paper towel on the surface and a smooth object like a spoon to have a more effect extraction. Hydrator-3.3 helps to bring the suspended soiling particulates upwards, without it the suspended stains is still stuck within the leather structure. Dislodging the soiling with Degreaser-2.2 and moving off the surface of the leather with Hydrator-3.3 is a combination with extraction effort at interval is the only proven methodology within a leather-safe system.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roger Koh

>>> It is not working.

You will continue to see the same thing with seemingly little improvement even though the stains has been partially extracted during wet with towel and dry with Eraser-4. It only tells us that there are more inside just like an iceberg, you will continue see it until the bottom of the iceberg is off the water. In this type of situation it is easier to removed from the reverse suede side (unfortunately we can’t in this case) and the stains from the back may spread even bigger than as compare to the front.

Tips:
Try removing the suspended stains upwards at intervals during the drying cycle with the stretching paper towel on the surface and a smooth object like a spoon to have a more effect extraction. Hydrator-3.3 helps to bring the suspended soiling particulates upwards, without it the suspended stains is still stuck within the leather structure. Dislodging the soiling with Degreaser-2.2 and moving off the surface of the leather with Hydrator-3.3 is a combination with extraction effort at interval is the only proven methodology within a leather-safe system.

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I have ordered more Degreaser 2.2 as well as the tool you recommended to help the degreaser and Hydrator penetrate deeper.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by evoissard

I have ordered more Degreaser 2.2 as well as the tool you recommended to help the degreaser and Hydrator penetrate deeper.

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I have received the tool and the degreaser 2.2. Can you let me know how to use the tool. Thanks

Caution!

The blade is super sharp so wearing appropriate gloves is highly recommended.

Wet Shaving of Unwanted Aniline Topcoats:
The leather texture has to be hydrated with Hydrator-3.3 to keep the surface well lubricated prior to shaving from hurting the skin. In a well hydrated condition the leather will be soft and strong allowing the leather to have its maximum stretch against the less stretchable topcoat may just shiver when pull taut prior to shaving. Recommended to start with the weak areas or area which the topcoat is the weakest and use short firm stroke to shave or stripped the topcoat off. Hydrator-3.3 is sprayed to keep the surface smooth from hurting the skin. It is recommended to remove to the edge of a panel for a seamless appearance. Like all shaving the blade is held at an slant angle for safety and control. Place our thumb on the center of the blade between the first finger and grip naturally for a shaving action.

Please show some pictures if you are doing it right.