Is there anyway to improve the appearance of this bag? I don't know what happened to it but it looks like it was burned.
Printable View
Is there anyway to improve the appearance of this bag? I don't know what happened to it but it looks like it was burned.
Questions:
1] Is the leather stiff?
2] Is it sticky?
3] Is there a smell?
4] Have you tried cleaning is, so far?
5] How does the lining look, do you have pictures?
Roger Koh
[email protected]
Leather is very stiff in damaged area, no smell, not sticky, cleaned with cleaner and rinse. Interior photo attached.
Good that you have direct access to the reverse suede side.
The stiffness and the stains is best work from this suede side.
The stiffness will be softened eventually and hopefully the stains will revert to this suede side by the hydrating and wicking process simultaneously with towel extraction removal.
Processing steps on the suede side is as follows:
Dry Soil Removal:
1] Use suede Eraser-5 to remove the staining particulates.
General Stain Removal:
1] Apply Prep-4.4 to the suede side, agitate and let dwell for 4 to 8 hours with constant periodic checking if the stains is suspended.
2] Towel blotting extraction is done at the smooth leather side as well.
3] The stain can be dwell for a day with Prep-4.4 to maximize its effectiveness.
Let’s see how the stain response and any improvement to the stiffness as well before we go into the other steps:
Hydrating with Hydrator-3.3 and fatliquor replenish with Fatliquor-5.0
The basic suede kit is Kit S3; the stains if it does not response may require other specialty product.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/S3.jpg
Leather DoctorŽ Suede Leather Care Kit S3
Roger Koh
[email protected]
This stain has gone through the cross section of the leather, and is safer to remove from the suede side; thus follows this specialty suede stain removal guide if it is a known stain.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...de11-LPG-1.jpg
Leather DoctorŽ: Leather-Safe Problem Solving Guide-S9 - Suede
Thanks Roger, I've applied the 4.4 to the inside and covered with plastic wrap. Is it possible to apply too much 4.4? With the suede interior absoption of the product I wasn't sure how much to apply.
I believe the stain started from the suede side and went its way out to the smooth side.
It is alright if the Prep-4.4 goes through to the other side as well.
Only need to extract them off thoroughly - follows with Cleaner-3.8 and Rinse-3.0 until squeaky clean.
What ever amount that is applied to the leather need to be clean off with Cleaner-3.8 and Rinse-3.0
Let us know if you see the stain moves.
The 4.4 had soaked in and the area where I applied it was completely dry after about four hours. I cleaned the area with cleaner and rinse several times and there is now a liquid mark around the area. The stain has changed slightly and the leather is a little softer. Will cleaning and rinsing again eliminate the liquid mark around the area?
It is good to put a number to the picture as #1, #2 and #3 for reference.
#2 picture have shown that the stain is moveable and the grain tightness have relaxed.
Remember the stain is soaked by the thickness of the leather.
To have the stain completely move to the surface will require the Hydrator-3.3 to do so.
The whole idea is to redistribute the stain to the entire leather structure and let it wick out to the surface to be erased away.
It will be safer to do it on the suede side.
Technique is to reverse the suede so that it becomes the outside of the bag.
Apply Prep-4.4 to the stain area only, agitate and extract as much as possible - see towel if you can transfer any stain to it.
Wet out the entire bag with Hydrator-3.3 from the suede side; making sure that the hydrator reaches the other side of the smooth leather.
Press in between your thumb and finger to check for some moisture oozing out of the leather - that's the optimum level of moisture you want to maintain, for the stain to "swim".
Put the bag into a clear plastic bag and let it dwell for up to 72 hours.
Check the moisture level at regular 8 hrs interval; while extracting the stain at the same time with fresh application, until the towel shows clean.
This technique is to move the stains out of the leather naturally with the help of hydration.
Only when the stain is completely gone that fatliquor replenishing begins.
Hope you understand this concept - the stains needs lots of hydration to bring it all out.
Roger Koh
[email protected]
Thank you Roger, I understand the concept. Do I clean and rinse after letting 7.7 dwell before applying hydrator 3.3?
This concept is base on what's principles is being practice in a modern tannery.
We are using the leather-safe products system that matches the leather pH chemistry integrity; otherwise it will be disastrous beyond imagination.
We are actually practicing what is known as the “soaking” process to flush out the stains from within the leather; but ours is “non-immersion” still needs lots of hydrator to do so.
Stain removal with Prep-4.4 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 only suspend the stains to be extracted from the surface , and is best done from the suede side, as the stain is a soak-through stain and not a surface stain.
Hydrator-3.3 facilitates the stain to “swim” to the surface; otherwise it is still stuck among the “forest of fibers” within the structure.
The four products work in conjunction with one another; so we can do the (Prep-4.4 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0) system in between the hydrator as well; as long as with Hydrator-3.3, as the last stage, making sure the stain is gone, prior to fatliquor replenishing to soften it.
Roger Koh
[email protected]
This is the result of applying 7.7 and hydrator and putting in plastic bag for about 27 hours. When I checked the bag it is almost dry and the area of the stain to where the 7.7 was applied is completely dry. Should I continue to apply more hydrator or 7.7?
Need to see the suede side.
How do you think the stain is going away?
Have you turn the bag suede side out?
The stain is moving - it is best to let it move to the suede side, don't you think so, as have explained earlier...
quote from earlier post.
"The whole idea is to redistribute the stain to the entire leather structure and let it wick out to the surface to be erased away.
It will be safer to do it on the suede side.
Technique is to reverse the suede so that it becomes the outside of the bag."
I've applied all products to the suede side as you suggested Roger. The stain is moving, It appears to be darker now on the suede side. The stain does not come off onto a towel when it is blotted, only the red dye shows on the towel. The bag is almost dry.
There are basically 2 ways to remove the stains out from the leather structure; one is while wet while the other is when crispy dry.
In this situation, wait till its crispy dry.
Use suede Eraser-5 and erase it from the suede side – see pictures.
Ok Roger, thank you.