Is there anything that can remove pen marks from an interior leather lining of this Louis Vuitton Papillon Damier Ebene?

I believe using Prep-7.7 from this Kit SA3.di will probably remove the ink mark without resorting to subsequent Bleach-9.9 as the second phase.

Observe leather absorbency, if Prep-7.7 does not darken the leather - skip phase 3 & 4.

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Leather Doctor® Kit SA3.di : Semi-Aniline Leather Dye Stain Bleaching Kit

■ Semi-Aniline (Micro-Pigmented) Leather – Dye and Ink Stain Removal System:
Dye and ink stain removal through the penetrating, lubricating, and suspending power of Prep-7.7; to solve common problem stains found on micro-pigmented, also known as semi-aniline leathers, like dye transfer from clothing including blue jeans and leather belts; not forgetting the newsprint and the tougher ballpoint ink. Prep-7.7 is applied onto the stain and leaves to dwell at least an hour or more for reaction to take effect; by then the stain may start running and it’s to be blotted with absorbent towel. It is a good sign that once the dye stains start to run it will be eventually be exhausted with repeat periodic dwell/extraction/application cycle up to 72hrs. Working in warmer temperature with leather Brush-1 agitation between the grains proves more effective in the stain removing process. However, if color finishes is also removed in the process due the prior weakening finishes or worn topcoat it’s recommended to discontinue and skip to the 2nd phase to save the color coat. Thereafter matching luster Topcoat-72 is reapplied to re-strengthen the colorcoat. The remaining sticky residues are removed using Cleaner-3.8 with brush agitation and towel extraction until towel shows clean; thereafter its rinse by using Rinse-3.0 to a healthy squeaky feel, to return the leather to its pH neutral of 3-5 chemistry integrity.
Instructions
1st phase - Dye and Ink Stain Removal:
If the stain is a failed attempt from other products, it’s recommended to use distilled/tap water for a wet finger test for tackiness. If it is, neutralize it with Acidifier-2.0 to return the leather to a squeaky feel is highly recommended prior to Prep-7.7 application.
1] Apply Prep-7.7 to the stain and let dwell for an hour or until stain begins to run.
2] Blot stain at 4 hours intervals or when sufficiently suspended, inspect and reapply for further dwell/blot cycle at intervals up to 72 hours until stain is removed, otherwise skip to bleaching it instead.
3] When stain is fully exhausted use Cleaner-3.8 to remove sticky residue and towel blot until it shows clean.
4] This removal system completes with Rinse-3.0 spray and towel blot to a squeaky clean.
2nd phase - Dye and Ink Stain Bleaching:
Bleaching begins where stain removal produces diminishing returns.
Mixing Instructions:
The powder Bleach-9.9 has to be mixed into a creamy paste to be applied onto the dye stains so that it remains on top of the surface, otherwise penetrating onto the leather crust may cause denaturing to the leather.
1] Use non metal tools with hot water dripping to mix powder to a creamy paste.
2] The approximate powder to water ratio is 3 to 1(example weight 1gm of bleach into the plastic capsule, then add 10drops of hot water using the pipette and stir it up to a creamy paste).
3] For advance longer bleaching action, add half the weight of the cream bleach or approximately 7.5gm withPrep-7.7 then stirs it up thick and it’s ready for direct application.
4] Keep lid of the capsule closed tight and add Prep-7.7 when it becomes too dry for continuous successive application.
Application Instructions:
1] Allow a minimum 6 hours dwelling time for chemical reaction to take effect.
2] Spend products with suspended stain is to be removed with inspection to stop or continue with fresh application.
3] When stain is gone use Cleaner-3.8 to remove the sticky residue.
4] And use Acidifier-2.0 to neutralize its high alkalinity to a healthy squeaky feel.
3rd phase – Hydrating:
When stain removal is done that reveals darkening effect to the pigmented surface, it’s a sign that micro-crazing has developed. These wet out leather surfaces including the stitching rows becomes vulnerable to stiffness. When leather structure becomes wet and dry again, it has the tendency for the fibrils to become stick together, resulting in stiffness and when stress may lead to premature cracks. Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure; besides charging it positive for a more effective hydrogen bonding with the negative fatliquor.
1] Spray Hydrator-3.3, control and spread with foam brush to hydrate especially the stitching rows.
2] Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes depending on severity of dryness, advanced techniques utilize plastic cling wrapping to control evaporation for a longer dwell time to plumps the leather effectively.
4th phase - Fatliquor Replenishing:
Fatliquor replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability. If leather protein fibrous structure can be hydrated, it can be fatliquor replenished to the desired suppleness with increased strength. Thus preventing leather from cracking commonly beginning from these weaker stitching rows where the fatliquor diminishes through evaporation and leaching.
1] Spray Fatliquor-5.0, in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally.
2] Repeat application in between drying until it’s saturated; strays are driven into the structure until crystal clear.
3] The fully saturated leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
5th phase - Non-stick Rub Resistant Protection:
This rub resistant protection helps reduce friction wear; that also imparts a non-stick natural buttery-feel against sticky soiling; with an unforgettable classic leather scent.
1] Apply Protection-B+ after shaking well, spread with lint free towel and its ready for use when dry.

Roger Koh
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