Henredon Aniline Leather Light Tan Sofa - soda, blood, dog drool and unknown stains to remove!

Hello,
I saw your products online.
I'm in the United States and it appears you don't have a retail shop here.
My aniline leather sofa has many spots.
They vary from soda, blood and dog drool.
I originally owned this sofa and sold it to my neighbor.
I now have it back and didn't realize the degree of damage they did.
Please advise me if you have any products that will remove spots from my sofa.
It is light tan in color.
I'm really hoping for the sofa to be improved.
Once you help identify I want to get products ordered a.s.a.p.
Thank you
Carol Wilkinson

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>>> My aniline leather sofa has many spots.
They vary from soda, blood and dog drool.
It is light tan in color.
I'm really hoping for the sofa to be improved.
Please advise me if you have any products that will remove spots from my sofa.
Once you help identify I want to get products ordered a.s.a.p.

Aniline leathers are absorbent that means that the stain has penetrated and as shown by picture #4, even though the clear sealer or topcoat has been removed the stain still shows, like slicing a rotten apple which will be very risky when applies to leather. The ideal is to have cleaning products that will penetrated and reach out the stain, emulsified it and make it wick up to the surface is the only sensible logic. However, not all stains behave the same manner, especially when comes to protein based stain, as it has affinity with the leather protein fiber and becomes part of leather which is very stubborn to remove without causing more damages to the leather. When partial removal is the limit and where such stain predominates the appearance of the leather especially a light pastel like light tan, a logical alternative is to redye it to camouflage these partially removed stains. But first lets try to reactivate the dormant dyestuff if any within the leather to re-surface with Hydrator-3.3 and replenish the original fatliquor with Fatliquor-5.0 to saturate the color intensity prior to resorting to re-dyeing (which will require a higher level of skill and with airbrushing, again when working with aniline transparent dyestuff “what you see is not what you get” as the color intensify with additional layers. However, it is also the beauty of depth with aniline transparent leathers that brings value to this sofa. Oterwise just to cover it with opaque color pigment will cheapen its quality with less life. Let me know what you think?

The entire procedure in sequences of process would be:

A - Restorative Cleaning:
This process removes the general grease, oil and sweat as preparation to sealer or topcoating with optional re-dyeing depending the desired level of appearance.
System recommended is Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3

B - Stain Removal:
Please refer to the Leather Problem Solving Matrix
B1 - Soda Stains - row #12 (Tannin-Based: wine, Coffee, Tea, Juices & Pop) sequence of procedure
B2 - Dog Drool - row #11 (Milk, Vomit & Body-fluid) sequence of procedure
B3 - Blood Stains - row #14 (Blood) sequence of procedure

Combination stain of the above removal is practice in this sequence:
B4 - The leather has to be dry after Hydrator-3.3 before CleanTannin-3.5 becomes effective otherwise is being diluted if the leather is still wet. It works by redox (reduction-oxidation) reaction and will vanish the stain away when dry. Other stains that still remains does not fall into this stain category and therefore will need matching products to remove them.
B5 - Dog drool or saliva is protein based and most stains will have an outer ring that binds with the leather protein fiber and detail removed will need s bamboo skewers to edge them out delicately. This is repeated until it produces the best result, limited to the depth the prick can reach without damaging the leather with CleanProtein-9.9.
B6 - Blood Stains is the same process as B5 and the remaining rust component has to be work when dry with CleanTarnish-1.3, after redox (reduction-oxidation) reaction and dry thereafter is further neutralized with Basifier-8.8 and pH balance with Rinse-3.0.

C - Leather Rejuvenation:
This is to relax the leather structure with Hydrator-3.3 and replenished its original fatliquor with Fatliquor-5.0. This system also works to intensify the color intensity.

D - Re-Dyeing to Camouflage remaining stains if any:
Adhesor-73 > Aniline-76 > AnilineTop-76G system applies.

E - Non-stick, rub-resistant, buttery-feel and leather-scent enhancement:
This is done with Protector-B+, scentless option is with Protector-B.

Let me know what you think?

Description of leather types and stain identification for your readings . . .

Aniline leather is soft and natural. They are usually first treated with transparent dyestuff to make the grain and natural characteristics more visible. Modern tannery dyeing is done in a rotating drum in a continuous process follows with fatliquoring. When dried thereafter, the leather goes through another selection or grading to decide the best treatment to bring out their potential softness and natural look. Thus, further sub-divide into various varieties. However, the bulk of aniline leathers after dyeing may reveal uneven grain dye absorbency and too many faults, so that the variation in color over the entire grain surface is too great for many leather fabrications.
Varieties of aniline leathers may be referred to as “full sauvage aniline” with differing intensity of dye absorbency appearance.
Use this Aniline (A.fs) Full Sauvage as reference guide when comes to cleaning and restoration. Identify the problem from the left column and the top row the product recommended and the numbers is the sequence of steps. When leather have compound issue combine the soiling, stain and odor types as the cleaning phase-1 and the leather rejuvenating with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 as the second phase-2. Structural problem as third phase-3, Finishing as phase-4 and protection of the finishes as phase-5. Any questions you may have will be answered from our help and support forum: http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...iline-Leathers
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Stain Identification:

Leather Stain Identification Tips:

Appearance
- Stain identification by appearance will show whether it the characteristic of a spill, rub-on, penetrated or deposited. It may also reveal dye or finishes damages cause by the stain.

Odor
- Stain identification by smell can be very helpful in positive identification. Some of the more common odor may be moldy, smoke, putrid or ammonic from urine.

Color
- Stain identification by color will also give a clue to the staining material. If the stain is red, it could be beverages, nail polish, lipstick, blood, or some other things. Color identification may not necessary be right; with time, a red bloodstain may turn to a stain that is tan to black. The color of the leather may mesmerize or alter the color of the stain.

Feel of Hand
- Stain identification by feel of hand may help determine the stain types. For instance, if it is sticky and red it could be candy, beverages or other things that have sugar in them. If the stain is brittle and stiff, it may be nail polish, shellac or paint. If it smears, it may have grease base to it, such as lipstick.

Location
- Stain identification by location may give a clue as to the makeup of the staining substance. If it is dark at the headrest or the edge of the armrest, it is most likely stain by body oil, grease and perspiration by hand or by head.

Buildup or Absorbed
- A stain may take several appearances. The stain may be lying on top of the leather (buildup) on most pigmented leather or absorbed into the leather on most unfinished, aniline and nubuck leathers. Naturally, it could also be a combination of absorbed and built up. If it has been absorbed, this will be an indication that it was a liquid when it penetrates the leather. It should also alert us that it may have chemically changed the dye of the leather. An example of this would be a perspiration stain that has reacted with the leather dye and changed it in some way. This would occur more likely on dyed absorbent leathers. The perspiration could also have weakened the fibers of the leather. In any event, this leather may show a marked color change in that area after spotting, and possibly after cleaning. Examples of built up stains are paint and some foodstuff, etc. Examples of absorbed stains are beverages, wine, tea, coffee, etc. A combination stain may be lipstick, ink, mustard, etc. it will have part of its staining matter absorbed into the leather and part of it accumulated on the surface. A stain may also be a substance that has wet solvent-soluble and dry solvent-soluble components combined. An example of this would be gravy which contains grease, flour (from plant), and milk (from an animal). Paint type stains are readily detected because of their stiff nature and generally bright colors and they seem to be sitting on top of the leather. When identifying stains always try to a determine whether they are of a protein, cellulose, oil based, or a colloidal make-up nature. Three common types of soiling or stain are solvent-soluble, water-soluble and insoluble. Stains are frequently of a combination nature, and in most instances, there will be no information from the customer regarding the stain especially if they are bought used.

Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]