Aniline (Sauvage) - Aniline Wax Leather stains and wear repair

Hi all!

I have a pretty new (one year old) couch that my furry friends (large dogs) seem to spend more time on than I do. That will no longer be the case but i'd like to get some advice on stain removal and repair. Their are some blood, licking, and oozing from a cut stains. Other stains probably include wine and other various drinks. Only the bottom cushions appear affected. I have attached photos. I also purchased the LeatherDoctor A.5 Kit for blood and protein removal. However, i think i am in over my head and am not sure if i need something more inclusive to repair the couch. Thanks in advance for you help and advice. Attachment 3741Attachment 3742Attachment 3743Attachment 3744Attachment 3745

Leather Identification:
It is recommended that the leather finishes types is positive identified when comes to refinishing it.

A wax “pull-up” leather is described as:
Wax pull-up leathers derive its color from dyestuff and effect wax that gives the leather a lively distressed look. When this leather is pulled, stretched or scratched, the waxes dissipate characteristically and become lighter in those areas. Sunlight and stretching through high wear areas are two main indications that the infused wax needs replenishing. As this, effect wax behaves just like the primary fatliquor they do diminish through ageing and will need periodic replenishing. Besides contributing to the color intensity, it improves in water shedding effect. Effect wax when applied to the leather penetrates while some coagulates as fine crystal and remains on the surface. The dried surface white powdery deposits are then heat activated and when they melt, they coat the surface with a glossy sheen.
Comparable topcoat uses is:
AnilineTop-21G, gloss luster is the most commonly used for aniline leathers and is the strongest among the range. This is a waterbased polyurethane topcoat that is lightfast and non-yellowing. It has excellent flow and leveling properties, recoatable and forms a flexible film coat that gives good performing results from friction wear. Matching non-stick, rub-resistant protection is to use the buttery-feel leather-scented Protector-B+ or the scentless Protector-B.

Waxed leather is aniline dyed leather using topcoat coat such as:
AnilineTop-21W, waxy-matte is a more delicate waterbased emulsion topcoat that produces a matte luster with a waxy feel to match original finishes. Matching non-stick, rub-resistant protection is to use the waxy-feel leather-scented Protector-W+ or the scentless Protector-W.

In this situation where wear repairs to surface smoothness is also part of restoration the recommended refinishing should take this sequence of processes:

C: Repairs to Surface Smoothness:
Adhesor-73

D: Color Refinishing:
Aniline-76

E: Top Coat:
Aniline-21G (gloss) for strength follows with optional Aniline-21W for luster level and a waxy-feel.

>>> I'd like to get some advice on stain removal. There are some blood, licking, and oozing from a cut stains. Other stains probably include wine and other various drinks.

A: Stain Removal:
Blood, licking and cut stains are classified as protein-based stain, these stains tends to becomes stiff as it coagulates and becomes part of the protein fiber will need extra physical effort usually with bamboo spatula to work them out. The iron component of bloodstain is class as tarnish stain and is treated as a secondary process to redox the rusty stain. Wine is class as tannin stains. Other soiling, stains and odors are removed accordingly during this phase of stain removal. Hydrator-3.3 helps to remove below surface stains, redistributing the displaced leather constituents and wick up foreign contamination to the surface to be towel extract when dry and Eraser-4 work out to remove surface soiling. When all stains are removed to the satisfaction, the process is move forward to rejuvenate the leather for suppleness fro stiffness and cracking:

B: Leather Rejuvenation:
Hydrator-3.3 has many functions, besides facilitating colloidal water movement to remove penetrated soiling, it helps relaxing the leather structure of uneven stretching reducing or relaxing unwanted creases and wrinkles back to its original dimension. The following step is to replenish diminished original fatliquor with Fatliquor-5.0

Use the Aniline Leather Problem Solving Guide as reference.

Attachment 3746

Most products mentioned are found in this aniline refinishing Kit A7.cl additional products mentioned are found as individual bottles from this on-line store categories: http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...t-A7.cl/Detail



Attachment 3747
Leather Doctor Kit A7.cl – Aniline Leather Dye Refinishing Kit
Leather Doctor® Kit A7.cl, aniline leather dye refinishing kit is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing from the simple sunlight fading to the severely sweat damages from body oil and grease. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected stains show a darkening effect with a sticky feel have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that the dyestuff has also break bonds with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or shows signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH imbalance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies greasy contamination besides controlling dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of a healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Custom redyeing commences prior to topcoat refinishing. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline leathers dyestuff and topcoat refinishing system.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
[email protected]

Thanks Roger! This is very helpful. I am an newbie trying this for the first time. I have ordered/received the following products from the leather doctor and plan on using them in the order listed. I need some advice on the procedures of the cleaning process (i.e. when to rub in, if to use wet or let dry between steps, etc.). Thanks in advance for you help with my questions!

1) Degreaser-2.2 : (will spray and rub with towel on entire cushion, let dry, the work out stains with eraser 4) What level of soaking? light mist or pretty generous covering? How long to dry?

2) Acidifier-2.0 (will spray lightly and rub in with towel on entire cushion, let dry, work out stains with eraser 4) What level of soaking? light mist or pretty generous covering?

3) Rinse-3.0 (will spray lightly and rub in with towel on entire cushion, let dry, work out stains with eraser 4) What level of soaking? light mist or pretty generous covering?

Since i don't know which stains are from what source, i'm going to try using the Hydrator 3.3 first and then move to the other cleaners if that doesn't get out the stain.
4a) Hydrator-3.3 (will spray lightly and rub in with towel on entire cushion, let dry, work out stains with eraser 4) What level of soaking? light mist or pretty generous covering? How long to dry?
4b) d'Protein-10 (will spot clean areas lightly with small amounts of product, using soft kitchen sponge, let dry)
4c) d’Tarnish-1.3 (will spot clean areas lightly with small amounts of product, using soft kitchen sponge, let dry)

5) Rinse-3.0 (will spray lightly and rub in with towel on entire cushion, let dry, work out stains with eraser 4) What level of soaking? light mist or pretty generous covering?

6) Fatliquor-5.0 (will coat lightly, let dry) should this be rubbed in? How long to dry?

7) Protector-B+ (will apply using foam brush to lightly coat entire cushion, let dry) How long to dry?

8) Adhesor-73 (will apply using foam brush to lightly coat entire cushion, let dry) How long to dry?

9) Aniline-76 (will apply using foam brush to lightly coat entire cushion, let dry) How long to dry?

10) AnilineTop-21 (will apply using foam brush to lightly coat entire cushion, let dry) How long to dry?

.............

>>> okay, so I'm back from visiting the grandkids and have finished renovating the victrola, now back to the couch. You mentioned that the finish type needs confirmation. I am enclosing a picture that shows a contrasting comparison. I would like to do a complete restoration which I understand to mean removing stains, rejuvenate leather, and top coat. I am most concerned about repairing cracks. Thank you so much. I looked for a long time before I found you!
L...a T.......d

Attachment 3853

Leather Type:
Picture shows scuffs very typical of pull-up distress leathers rather than the monotone aniline types. The distress is due to the pull-up wax effect infused into the leather structure and may diminishes together with the original fatliquor thus the distress effect reduces. It would be good to see hidden areas and you determine if you wish to have the distress wax pull-up effect restored, otherwise we can go without it as well converting into monotone aniline. You have to decide on the finishes type you wish to pursue.

Color:
Getting to the right color intensity for aniline coloring is different from the pigmented opaque “what you see is what you get”. Coloring for aniline leather is quite similar to water coloring and the color intensity is build up by layers.
Another color consideration is that Aniline is transparent dyestuff that only amplify and magnify the beauty of the grains originally but now with stains which might still show (same as those of natural scars that shows darker in color, any unnatural scars may still shows) therefore any color to decided should be able to camouflage existing darkest color for an even appearance with pull-up distress or monotone is still a choice up to now.

Cracks:
>>> I am most concerned about repairing cracks
Like to have picture reference to the cracks. Cracks are just like rope broken strains of fibers. Once broken will loose its tensile strength. In leather it is the remaining percentage of fatliquor (fat and oil) contents that determines its tensile strength. When dry the inter-connecting fibers stiffed-up and when flexed or stressed breaks and when percentage of fatliquor is replenished to up to 14% the strength returns with suppleness.

Crack Solution:
Leather is first rejuvenated by Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system prior to repairs. Structural weakness is strengthen with Impregnator-26, physical repairs to conceal cracks is done with Bond-3D and donor fibers from the reverse suede side (similar repair to fiberglass technique). Grain abrasion smooth repairs is done with Adhesor-73.


>>> I would like to do a complete restoration, which I understand to mean removing stains, rejuvenate leather, and topcoat.

A holistic restoration may take these sequences of processes.

1. Aniline Wax Pull-Up System:
A. Stains Removal by Types or Class accordingly with reference guide.
B. Hydrator-3.3
C. Aniline-21 (staining dyestuff)
D. Hydrator-3.3
E. Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3
F. Repairs
G. Wax Effect-8.6
H. Adhesor-73
I. AnilineTop-21G
J. Protector-D+

2. Aniline Monotone System:
A. Stains Removal by Types or Class accordingly with reference guide.
B. Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3
C. Repairs
D. Aniline-76
E. AnilineTop-21G
F. Protector-B+

Let me know your system preference

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
[email protected]
www.LeatherDoctor.com

I think I would like to go with option 1 because it has the adhesor-73. In previous post, under "Aniline leathers – Worn, Urine Stain, Milk Stain, Unknown Dark Stain, vinegar and Linseed Oil mix, etc!" you said " the leather looks “mud cracking” from picture #3.
A complete restoration work would include removing all the stains above surface and below surface, rejuvenate the leather structure replenishing the fatliquor, fashion effect conditioner if necessary, dyeing an option and certainly a topcoat is need to restored back to the original condition." I'm not sure about dyeing though. Above you mentioned impregnator-26 and Bond-3D. Do I need those? I have the urine removing kit. I would like to collect all materials before I start and I'm still not quit sure what I need. Thank you for your time and expertise.
Linda T.

>>> I think I would like to go with option 1 because it has the adhesor-73.

In the 2. Aniline Monotone System: above. Adhesor-73 is used under C. Repairs.
In repairs –
Impregnator-26 is used for impregnating weaken overstretched leather.
Bond-3D is used for bonding repairs such as tear.
Adhesor-73 is used for surface smooth repairs.

Please show some hidden areas to view original condition (the pictures on post #5 may not be the original). We cannot process with color restoration if we do not know how we want it to look.

The below picture is a typical example of Aniline Wax Pull-up leathers. It looks very dark and only when pull or stretch appears lighter giving a distress look. Is this what you want?

Attachment 3863

>>> Above you mentioned impregnator-26 and Bond-3D. Do I need those?

These are as necessary products, you do not need them if problem is non-existence.


Attachment 3864
Leather Doctor® Impregnator-26 is design for structural weakness on pigmented and aniline smooth leather types. This is a protein compact resin-blend compound for impregnating worn leather grains and micro cracks. It is to seal, strengthen and leveling out uneven absorption for further coating process. It fills and tightens with good leveling properties that is film forming for improve abrasion resistance.

Instruction:

Shake well, pad to saturate all weak and absorbent areas.
Concentrate on weak areas otherwise wipe off unnecessary excess to reduce buildup.
Sand off surface buildup when dry with 1000/2000grit sandpaper.




Attachment 3865
Leather Doctor® Bond-3D is for leather structure bonding repairs, such as abrasion, cat-scratch, and filling repairs with Stucco-90, Pigment-64, Micro-54, Anline-76 and Aniline-21. This waterbased medium soft polyurethane leather bond will not lift the leather finishes unlike other dry solvent-based glue. Works in conjunction with leather Patch-4S as sub patch and suede fibers as fillers. Excess clean up when dry will require the help of Bond-7A.

Tips:

1 Colors and dyes can be added for aesthetic repairs.

2 Test for darkening effect when dry, prior to repair.

3 Use leather Patch-4S as sub-patch to bond.

4 Use suede fibers for filling repairs for aniline leathers.

5 Use Stucco-90 for filling repairs for pigmented leathers.

6 Use leather Bond-7A to smoothen repairs without the need to sanding.

Types of Repairs using Bond-3D:

A. Cut Through Repairs.

B. New, Fresh and Clean Accident Abrasion Repairs.

C. Prolonged Contaminated Abrasion & Holes Repairs.

D. Cat-Scratch Repairs.



A. Cut Through Repairs.

A cut through repairs utilize Patch-4S as a sub-patch and this is bonded suede side to suede side.

1 Where tension causes the leather to open, it is stretch to an overlapping position with some physical help.

2 Preferably the Patch-4S is bonded to one side first prior to bonding the other side to reduce the overlapping effort.

3 This is a slow drying product thus a blower may come helpful to speed up the drying process.

4 The bonding process will require the bond to cure for tension strength, thus holding the rip in position until fully cured is necessary.

5 Vertical filling gap may be done with added matching coloring for aesthetic.



B. Fresh and Clean Accident Abrasion Repairs:

Abrasion in most cases will roughen up the leather structure with missing finishes.

1 Any soiling is removed with brushing prior to applying Bond-3D to smooth the damages.

2 Repeat application is necessary to build the smooth skin back gradually.

3 Color matching is done accordingly to the finish types.



C. Prolonged Contaminated Abrasion & Holes Repairs:

Constant abrasion with repeat compression may loosen and weaken the leather structure compound with loss of fibers or missing parts. Repairs to such neglected damages may take on a holistic approach to restore systematically the damages. Degreasing with Degreaser-2.2 is recommended to remove surface and penetrated oil and grease soiling in conjunction with Rinse-3.0 to remove foreign contamination. Leather rejuvenating is also recommended to restore the leather softness and strength with Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0. Tightening the leather structure may be necessary to restore over-stretched leather with Impregnator-26. Bonding repair with Bond-3D commence thereafter with smoothening, filling with donor suede fiber especially for aniline leathers or optional Stucco-90 for pigmented leathers. Repair prepares the surface for color refinishing that follows with Adhesor-73, matching coloring and matching topcoat that ends with a rub-resistant protection.

No. this is not what I want. So, I guess that means i should go with the second choice. If you go to thread "Aniline leathers – Worn, Urine Stain, Milk Stain, Unknown Dark Stain, vinegar and Linseed Oil mix, etc!" you will find my pictures. The last picture (the one above) is a cushion flipped over and lying beside the top side of a cushion. I believe that it shows the original condition. Also, picture #4 is the tag but the leather around it looks like it is in original condition. So, I need degreaser 2.2, protector B+ (I have protector D+) impregnator 26, analine 76, adhesor 73, bond 3D,and analinetop 21G. Do you recommend anything else? Maybe an additional cleaner for who knows what stains?
Linda

>>> If you go to thread "Aniline leathers – Worn, Urine Stain, Milk Stain, Unknown Dark Stain, vinegar and Linseed Oil mix, etc!" you will find my pictures.

http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...ed-Oil-mix-etc!
Attachment 3867


>>> Do you recommend anything else? Maybe an additional cleaner for who knows what stains?

Use the guide as reference for stain types and you may have them accordingly.

Aniline-76 color is available as:
Antique Brown, Black, Yellow, Orange, Red, Red-Brown, Rubine, Blue, Navy-Blue, Dark-Brown.
Antique Brown I think is the closest, otherwise all color are intermixable to achieve the desire color.
Color intensity is reduced with "Clear" accordingly for testing prior application.
Undesirable color is remove with Stripper-2.3.


Aniline-76 is a transparent dyestuff that is design for coating over existing topcoat. This lively and brilliant new generation aqueous dyestuff provides a more superior light fastness and fades resistance than most standard liquid dyes. To stain directly into leather with no impeding topcoat use Aniline-21 instead. Use AnilineTop-76 thereafter to seal dyestuff from crocking or bleeding that also decides the luster with either gloss or matte, or a mix for a satin luster. Nine (9) standard colors are available for direct application and for creating a secondary or tertiary color to match. The popular Antique-Brown is an example of a mix of one part Orange, Red-Brown and Dark-Brown.
Tips:
1. Strip existing finishes, use – Stripper-2.3.
2. Degreasing, use – Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0.
3. Reduce color intensity, use – Aniline-76 "Clear"
Application Instruction:
1. Shake very well and apply by padding, brushing or for professional result use airbrushing to avoid streaks.
2. Blow dry in-between coats until desired result is achieved.
Tips:
1. To hydrate stiff leathers, use – Hydrator-3.3.
2. To soften leathers, use – Fatliquor-5.0.
Topcoat:
1. For a gloss finish, use AnilineTop-76G.
2. For a matte finish, use AnilineTop-76M.
3. For a satin finish, mix an equal part of gloss and matte.
Non-Stick, Rub-Resistant Protection:
Use buttery-feel leather-scented Protector-B+ or scentless Protector-B.

I'm ready to order...I think. Does this look like a complete list (keeping in mind that I have the urine kit) and how much of each product do I need?
degreaser 2.2, protector B+, clean 3.8, stripper 2.3, impregnator 26, analine 76 in antique brown, analine 76 in clear, adhesor 73, bond 3D, analinetop 76M, analinetop 76G
Also, do I need more of any of the products that I have left off this list because they are in the urine kit?
Thank you for your patience
Linda T

>>> I'm ready to order...I think. Does this look like a complete list (keeping in mind that I have the urine kit) and how much of each product do I need?

Note: Do not delay on your Urine Stain - time is working against the leather!

Degreaser-2.2:
Degreaser-2.2 works in conjunction with Rinse-3.0 or Acidifier-2.0 to control bleeding if any doing the rinsing work and the ratio in practice is two times the rinsing require to removed the suspended soiling plus any of the Degreaser residue. Below surface rinsing would require the work of Hydrator-3.3 to further wick up suspended soiling up to the surface. About 2 times in ratio with Degreaser-2.2 as well as part of the continuous wet cleaning system to remove above and below surface soiling.

Leather Doctor® Degreaser-2.2 is a pH 2.2 leather-safe waterbased degreaser with dye bleeding control. It is design for degreasing leather of penetrated oil, grease and sweat stains from skin, and hair contact, especially the headrest and armrest of upholstery, collar and cuffs of garment, handles of bag including steering wheel. It works best in conjunction with Rinse-3.0 to rinse emulsified soiling or Acidifier-2.0 for rinsing, bleeding control and pH balancing sweaty contamination from leather denaturing into rawhide. This universal leather degreaser is for all leather types including the common pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck and suede.

Leather Doctor® Rinse-3.0 is a pH 3.0 waterbased leather-safe universal rinse for all leather types that include pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck and suede. It is to removes suspended soiling by towel extraction while neutralizing harmful alkaline residues and charging the protein fiber ionic positive to increase the attraction between the ionic negative leather constituent like the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor.

Leather Doctor® Acidifier-2.0 is a waterbased pH 2.0 leather acidifier designs for controlling dye bleeding in conjunction with Degreaser-2.2 in extreme prolong oil, grease and sweat decontamination system. As a standalone, it is for pH balancing alkaline overexposure that manifest as marks, streaks, brightness and tackiness. This universal acidifier is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin leather types.

Leather Doctor® Hydrator-3.3 is a waterbased pH 3.3 leather-safe hydrator. It is a fatliquor preconditioner with multi functional abilities. Surface application is primary to check for even surface tension free of blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. Structural application will require saturating to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.

Protector B+,
Another bottle of 250ml Protector-B+ would be sufficient with leftovers.
Leather Doctor® Protector-B+ imparts a buttery-feel with a classic leather scent is design for pigmented, aniline and nubuck oil pull-up leather types. This is a non-film forming, non-stick, rub-resistant protector that enhances a soft natural tactile feel for imparting a breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling and preventing the too common pesky ballpoint from ever ready rolling out its nasty ink. Moreover, for helping to release those tenacious blue jeans dye-transfer stains obviously on light colored leathers easily. Its natural buttery-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch; scuff and abrasion with reduce friction squeaks.

Clean-3.8,
You may not need any Clean-3.8 as it is a mild cleaner, much of the restorative cleaning is done with Degreaser-2.2. Will need during routine and periodic maintenance cleaning.

Stripper-2.3,
Stripper-2.3 is for removing existing deteriorated finishing to reduce unnecessary build-up. This product is used in conjunction with Stripping Brush-2. Can’t estimate for you as it depends on how much surface areas you wish to strip. May try out 1 quart and you will know how much you will further need what you wish to accomplished.
Leather Doctor® Stripper-2.3 is a pH 2.3 residue free hydrocarbon formulated duality leather finish stripper with bleeding control. It is use to remove existing old finishes or overspray for all leather types.
Instruction:
1 Spray, agitate with stripping Brush-2 and or with leather Eraser-4 and extract with terry towel before it dries.
Tips:
A bristle detailing brush works into the grooves for a more thorough overall stripping unless the surface is without grain then Eraser-4 with its flat surface contact and efficient traction makes stripping much easier.
Horsehair Brush-1 is recommended for all smooth leathers without heavy surface finishes safe against grain damages. A stiffer stripping Brush-2 is recommended for heavier finishes, however always test against grain damages. Leather rejuvenating with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system is mandatory thereafter to restore the suppleness of the leather structure. Stripping by wetting the leather structure and when dry thereafter will leave the leather stiffer and should be handle with care from cracking it. Leather rejuvenating after inspection with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system is mandatory to restore any discoloration from migrating dyestuff if any and returning the suppleness of the leather structure to as soft as you wish.

Impregnator-26,
This product is used only for overstretch weak leather structure.
Leather Doctor® Impregnator-26 is design for structural weakness on pigmented and aniline smooth leather types. This is a protein compact resin-blend compound for impregnating worn leather grains and micro cracks. It is to seal, strengthen and leveling out uneven absorption for further coating process. It fills and tightens with good leveling properties that is film forming for improve abrasion resistance.

Analine-76 in antique brown,
Start off with Quart.

Aniline-76 is a transparent dyestuff that is design for coating over existing topcoat. This lively and brilliant new generation aqueous dyestuff provides a more superior light fastness and fades resistance than most standard liquid dyes. To stain directly into leather with no impeding topcoat use Aniline-21 instead. Use AnilineTop-76 thereafter to seal dyestuff from crocking or bleeding that also decides the luster with either gloss or matte, or a mix for a satin luster. Nine (9) standard colors are available for direct application and for creating a secondary or tertiary color to match. The popular Antique-Brown is an example of a mix of one part Orange, Red-Brown and Dark-Brown.
Tips:
1. Strip existing finishes, use – Stripper-2.3.
2. Degreasing, use – Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0.
3. Reduce color intensity, use – Adhesor-73.
Application Instruction:
1. Shake very well and apply by padding, brushing or for professional result use airbrushing to avoid streaks.
2. Blow dry in-between coats until desired result is achieved.
Tips:
1. To hydrate stiff leathers, use – Hydrator-3.3.
2. To soften leathers, use – Fatliquor-5.0.
Topcoat:
1. For a gloss finish, use AnilineTop-76G.
2. For a matte finish, use AnilineTop-76M.
3. For a satin finish, mix an equal part of gloss and matte.
Non-Stick, Rub-Resistant Protection:
Use buttery-feel leather-scented Protector-B+ or scentless Protector-B.

Aniline-76 in clear,
This product is for thinning down color intensity.

Adhesor 73,
Start with Quart, worn areas may need more to completely smooth up the surface prior to Aniline-76.
Leather Doctor® Adhesor-73 is an auxiliary for refinishing pigmented, aniline, bicast and simulated leathers.
Packing types are available in RTU and Fill-up.
RTU version is ready-to-use straight from the bottle.
Fill-Up version is concentrate in the bottle to be fill-up with distilled water @ ratio 1: 1 prior to use to save on shipping weight.
This is a water based compact resin adhesion promoter for:
a) Smooth abraded surfaces,
b) Ensure proper sealing and adhesion prior to color coating and
c) Used after Wax Effect-8.6 prior to topcoat application.
Tips:
Strip clean of foreign contamination prior to application – use Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0.
Note:
Test for darkening effect on a hidden area prior to actual application.
Instruction:
A) To Smooth Abraded Surfaces:
1 Shake well; apply direct or with appropriate brush (including foam brush).
2 Let dry naturally or speed dry with blow dryer.
3 When almost dry compress with a smooth object (leather spatula or a teaspoon).
4 Remove surface buildup with 1000/2000grit sandpaper.
B) To Ensure Proper Sealing and Adhesion:
1 Shake well, spread evenly with horsehair Brush-1 or foam brush.
2 Use horsehair Brush-1 to agitate into grooves and worn areas.
3 Let dry naturally or speed dry with blow dryer.
4 Darkening areas is stretch with a smooth spatula or spoons.
C) To seal after Wax Effect-8.6 prior to topcoat application:
1 Shake well, spread evenly with horsehair Brush-1 or foam brush.
2 Let dry naturally or speed dry with blow dryer.

Bond-3D,
Can’t tell from pictures if you need it.
Leather Doctor® Bond-3D is for leather structure bonding repairs, such as abrasion, cat-scratch, and filling repairs with Stucco-90, Pigment-64, Micro-54, Anline-76 and Aniline-21. This waterbased medium soft polyurethane leather bond will not lift the leather finishes unlike other dry solvent-based glue. Works in conjunction with leather Patch-4S as sub patch and suede fibers as fillers. Excess clean up when dry will require the help of Bond-7A.
Tips:
1 Colors and dyes can be added for aesthetic repairs.
2 Test for darkening effect when dry, prior to repair.
3 Use leather Patch-4S as sub-patch to bond.
4 Use suede fibers for filling repairs for aniline leathers.
5 Use Stucco-90 for filling repairs for pigmented leathers.
6 Use leather Bond-7A to smoothen repairs without the need to sanding.
Types of Repairs using Bond-3D:
A. Cut Through Repairs.
B. New, Fresh and Clean Accident Abrasion Repairs.
C. Prolonged Contaminated Abrasion & Holes Repairs.
D. Cat-Scratch Repairs.
A. Cut Through Repairs.
A cut through repairs utilize Patch-4S as a sub-patch and this is bonded suede side to suede side.
1 Where tension causes the leather to open, it is stretch to an overlapping position with some physical help.
2 Preferably the Patch-4S is bonded to one side first prior to bonding the other side to reduce the overlapping effort.
3 This is a slow drying product thus a blower may come helpful to speed up the drying process.
4 The bonding process will require the bond to cure for tension strength, thus holding the rip in position until fully cured is necessary.
5 Vertical filling gap may be done with added matching coloring for aesthetic.
B. Fresh and Clean Accident Abrasion Repairs:
Abrasion in most cases will roughen up the leather structure with missing finishes.
1 Any soiling is removed with brushing prior to applying Bond-3D to smooth the damages.
2 Repeat application is necessary to build the smooth skin back gradually.
3 Color matching is done accordingly to the finish types.
C. Prolonged Contaminated Abrasion & Holes Repairs:
Constant abrasion with repeat compression may loosen and weaken the leather structure compound with loss of fibers or missing parts. Repairs to such neglected damages may take on a holistic approach to restore systematically the damages. Degreasing with Degreaser-2.2 is recommended to remove surface and penetrated oil and grease soiling in conjunction with Rinse-3.0 to remove foreign contamination. Leather rejuvenating is also recommended to restore the leather softness and strength with Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0. Tightening the leather structure may be necessary to restore over-stretched leather with Impregnator-26. Bonding repair with Bond-3D commence thereafter with smoothening, filling with donor suede fiber especially for aniline leathers or optional Stucco-90 for pigmented leathers. Repair prepares the surface for color refinishing that follows with Adhesor-73, matching coloring and matching topcoat that ends with a rub-resistant protection.

AnilineTop-76G
Gloss is much stronger than “Satin” and is used first to seal the dye coating. Start with Quart.
AnilineTop-76 is a heavy-duty gloss topcoat design for upholstery and auto aniline leathers. It is a waterbased fine particular size urethane-resin emulsion to protect aniline dyestuff with excellent toughness and flexibility.
Luster is available in gloss or matte for direct application or a mix to produce a satin luster.
Tips:
1 To rectify existing finish stickiness adds up to 10% Crosslinker-25.
Instruction:
1 Use lint-free padding or airbrushing for professional result.
2 Let dry in between application.
Non-stick, Rub-resistance Protections:
Use buttery-feel leather-scented Protector-B+ or scentless Protector-B.

AnilineTop-76S
Satin is used after Gloss to make adjustment to the luster level, both are also mixable to get the desired luster. It depends if you want to use it.


>>> Also, do I need more of any of the products that I have left off this list because they are in the urine kit?

Note: Do not delay on the urine stains!!!

Products are used according to needs and in reference to the guide. The amount is very, very subjective and is only an estimate. I can only say that the Protector-B+ in 250ml is more than enough, but they are used on a routine basis as well. Any other products will still have a shelf life of up to 5 years when kept in room temperature away from sunlight.

My recommendation is try out a cushion, take the worst condition and do an entire process. You would then know how much you will need for the rest. Even a season professional will not able to predict the exact amount for each project especially products that is quickly absorbed into the leather, conditions and surface working areas differs. Sorry to say that I can’t help much in estimating how much each product you will need, you have to try it out a cushion to determine how much more you will need.

I assume that you have not even started on your urine stain – time is working against the leather – the longer the stain is there, the worst condition it becomes and in severe long delay it just rots thru.

Urine:
Urine is a compound waste discharge, comprises of urochrome, uric acid and the ammonium salt to deal with. When deposited urine attracts the natural bacteria from the atmosphere and starts to ferments, a putrid odor will develop from the protein component of the urine and ammonia odor will develop from the ammonium salt. When ammonia odor becomes present, the pH of the contamination would have shifted to 10. Such high pH above the neutral average 3 to 5 of leather causes the amphoteric protein fiber to shift ionic negative (-ve); that causes the protein fibers to repels its other ionic negative (-ve) constituents like the tanning agent, fatliquor and dyestuff. Behaving just like the attraction of a magnet, like poles repel. When the leather constituent breaks hydrogen bond with the protein fiber, the leather starts to denature and revert to rawhide. The first sign of leather denaturing is stickiness from the ionic repelling tanning agent. Destabilized dyestuff becomes fugitive and will show when rub with a damp white towel. Stiffness of the leather indicates the diminishing effect of fatliquor. A systematic sequence of decontamination approach includes surface residue removal with Rinse-3.0 (pH 3.0), uric acid removal with d’Protein-10 (pH 10), pH balance with Acidifier-2.0 (pH 2.0) recharging the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) and neutralizing the ammonium salt with d’Urine-2.1 (pH 2.1). Utilizing such a low pH treatment retards bacteria activities from off gassing putrid odors, a natural pH control without the need to use bactericide or fungicide for mold prevention. Therefore, urine is a type of dirt that will require a biochemistry approach to decontaminate it. Restoring the leather begins after decontamination with Hydrator-3.3, a pH 3.3 multifunctional product that has ionic positive (+ve) charging abilities, an active surfactantcy essential for colloidal water movement within the inter-fibrillary spaces to redistribute the leather constituents and purging foreign contamination to resurface. This is the last of the wet cleaning process to remove suspended urochrome yellowish compound through visible white tissue paper as an extension of the leather in the wicking process as the leather dries naturally. Only then, without a trace of the urine stain that Fatliquor-5.0 (pH 5.0) replenishing commences. The emulsified fat and oil encased water molecule breaks free when hydrogen bond attraction takes place between the fat and oil with the protein fiber, leaving a breathing space essential for leather transpiration to function naturally. The fat plumps the leather with fullness from easily collapsing into creases and wrinkles during stress or flex, while the oil lubricates the fibers so that they slide over one another like millions of inter-connecting hinges with smoothness. One important unique characteristic of leather is suppleness with strength and much depends on the fatliquor, in this holistic approach to effective leather urine decontamination and restoration. For severe neglected cases with finishes damages as seen in this picture, refinishing commences after leather suppleness restoration.

thank you so much for your time and expertise. I did treat the urine stain as soon as I got the kit. I now have a beautiful clean corner on one cushion which is what prompted me to pursue a total rejuvenation process.The next thing you hear from me will be an order for products… I hope : )
Linda T

Attachment 3905Attachment 3906My order arrived today. Unfortunately, the package was damaged and some products leaked. I need to know at what ratio Impregnator-26, Aniline top-76S and 76G are diluted. Those may be okay. Rinse 3.0 and clean 3.8 are all but empty. I will send pictures

>>> Rinse-3.0 and Clean-3.8 are all but empty.

Rinse-3.0 concentrate ratio is 1: 80. In a quart 946ml packing the concentrate content is 11.67gm and bottle is 56gm; total weight approximately = 67.67gm is correct.
Clean-3.8 concentrate ratio is 1: 64. In a quart 946ml packing the concentrate content is 14.55 and bottle is 56gm; total weight approximately = 70.55gm is correct.


>>> I need to know at what ratio Impregnator-26, Aniline top-76S and 76G are diluted.

All fill-up version have their respectively ratio accordingly when fill up with distilled water:
Quart is approximately 2” from top of bottle and 250ml is approximately 1” from top of bottle.

Attachment 3909Attachment 3910Attachment 3908In the pictures above, it is clear that the box was crushed and that some liquid leaked out. There was a very strong odor even before I opened the box. I don't know what leaked. Your weights are to 100th of a gram...really? so i guess I can track down a triple beam scale. I purchased 250ml of clean-3.8 so what is that total weight before distilled water is added. do the levels of the bottles look right? Also, are you saying that I do not fill the bottles all the way up? 2 inches from top for quarts and 1" from to for 250ml. here are 3 more pictures.
Linda T

>>> I purchased 250ml of clean-3.8 so what is that total weight before distilled water is added.

Total weight shall not be less than 67.67gm.


>>> do the levels of the bottles look right?

They look right!


>>> Also, are you saying that I do not fill the bottles all the way up? 2 inches from top for quarts and 1" from to for 250ml.

Correct!


>>> I don't know what leaked.

Any leaks from bottles usually will stain or streaks the paper labels or characteristically noticeable dried residues from the outer plastic bottle. Interior stuffing paper liquid marks is more suspicious than the exterior box.

I think that it was the clean-3.8 that leaked. please tell me the weight of the empty 250ml bottle and if you weigh the bottles with the top on or off because neither weight is matching what you said. the rinse-3.0 may have leaked a little and I don't want of dilute it too much. sorry for the hassle and thanks again.
Linda T

>>>I think that it was the clean-3.8 that leaked. please tell me the weight of the empty 250ml bottle and if you weigh the bottles with the top on or off because neither weight is matching what you said. the rinse-3.0 may have leaked a little and I don't want of dilute it too much. sorry for the hassle and thanks again.

>>>because neither weight is matching what you said

If the weight is more than I mentioned then it is normal.


250ml bottle weights 25.5gm, Clean-3.8 concentrate content weights 3.84gm – total weight with cap on is 29.34gm.

Quart bottle weights 56gm, Rinse-3.0 concentrarte content weights 11.67gm – total weight with cap on is 67.67gm

Please weight it and if you find any weight difference let me know and we will ship them out to you.

Roger,
Thank you so much for your response. The weights are right on. I don't know what was on the box! Or what that odor was.
Thank you for helping me figure out that it was not your product that had leaked.
Now I can clean my couch!
Linda Trueblood