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Attachment 1038:o
I bought this Givenchy Nightingale from a friend. She did not take care of it (faded and scratched). I tried to take this bag to a shop that stated they could do refurbishing of leather bags but would not even make an attempt ( too much liability with it). Anyway, the bag is lambskin and they gave me the dye to do it myself. What I need to know is how to prepare the leather for re-dying.
Thanks in advance
Fading for aniline lambskin is activated by Hydrator-3.3 to release the dormant dyestuff within to resurface.
Just like adding hot water to activate the tea color.
Fat and oil in the leather plays a part in how saturated the color will be.
Replenishing the leather with Fatliquor-5.0 will also intensify the color density.
Scratched is repair to the skin itself and all aniline leather repairs will take on a darkening effect like healing scar.
You may refer to these two guides, one for pure aniline and the other or waxy-matte aniline, difference being only on the topcoats.
For aniline leather less is more beautiful, the other heavier version is the Matte Aniline or the Gloss Aniline (a total of 4 versions available), again the difference is on the topcoats.
See the procedure for Sun fading and Cat Scratches problem solving processes.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Ap.jpg
Leather-Safe Problem Solving Guide (A.p) – Pure-Aniline Leathers
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Am.jpg
Leather-Safe Problem Solving Guide (A.m) – Aniline Waxy-Matte Leathers
Roger Koh
[email protected]
Thank you for the advice,which is more than I've gotten elsewhere. I like the idea of the pure Aniline but unsure as to how to pick a kit. Is there a complete kit or do I pick individual items?
I am interested in the Aniline (A-P) but would like to know which kit would work the best (it would also need to take care of the scratches) and how much it would cost (I live in California)
Thanks
Hi Roger - I'm new to the forum - but have a Nightingale as well that has one quadrant that has darkened - not sure if cleaner I used (apple leather cleaner) was too strong for lambskin.
Anyways - am I reading your post correctly & if I use the hydrator 3.3 and fatliquor 5.5 that the original color (lighter) will come back? Must I use both in steps or can I use one? The leather itself is still in great condition & the rest of the bag is in great condition too - I'm just trying to figure out how to lighten this one part of the bag now that it's darkened. Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zippy14u
From the zipper close-up pictures the leather looks dry with creases and wrinkles (the fat and oil dries out leaving the leather empty and it collapse with creases and wrinkles, the appearance looks better once the leather is plums-up with fat and oil – fatliquor).
The scratches or rather the peeling is due to leather dryness as well, when leather is dry just like our skin it scales, again hydrating to relax the overstretched leathers follows with fatliquoring will help in the appearance as well.
As mentioned any repairs will darkens the skin, to reduce such natural darkening Protector-D+ is first recommended before attempting to repairing with Bond-3D. Protector-D+ is used as a scuff repairer, filling and concealing surface scuffs to improve appearance.
I would only attempt to use Aniline-21 until hydrator-3.3 with Fatliquour-50 proves not satisfying.
The Protector-S+ for “Pure Aniline” may be compromise for Protector-D+ for the healing and concealing scuff abilities.
Products mentioned is found in this Kit V5r.dr for vachetta leather instead.
Procedure for a corrective cleaning may follow this sequence.
1] Degreaser-2.2
2] Acidifier-2.0
3] Hydrator-3.3
4] Fatliquor-5.0
4] Protector-D+
Attachment 1068
Leather Doctor® Kit V5.dr – Vachetta Degreaser Kit
Please email me for shipping and kit prices.
Roger Koh
[email protected]
Quote:
Originally Posted by pahkopahko
It will always be more precise if you have pictures to see how severe the darkening is.
All cleaners used, the pH value is important to note.
Leather is an “amphoteric” material and it denatures when its original pH value is shift.
The pH of leather averages 4, is also known as the “iso-electric point” of leather often refer to as the “pI”
Any solution that has a pH higher than 5 in the cleaning process will darken progressively as the pH value goes up.
To reduce the darkening effect the possible pH value need to be neutralized with Acidifier-2.0 (pH 2.0).
Check out this darkened areas with a wet finger to detect for tackiness (a sign of leather denaturing to rawhide or raw-skin).
Acidifier-2.0 will both rectify the tackiness and lighten the darkening effect.
Hydrator-3-3 is a leather-safe pH 3.3 surface-active-agent that penetrates, activates and redistribute dormant dyestuff to resurface.
This function contributes and restores color loss through sun fading.
Fatliquor-5.0 contributes to the color by intensifying its shade and tone.
The Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 is always used as a system. The hydrator-3.3 is also used to check for an even surface appearance free form surface tension prior to Fatliquor-5.0 to avoid any blotchiness in the presence of oily surface.
Roger Koh
[email protected]
Hi Roger,Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
Thanks for the detailed response. As requested, here are pix of my bag & the darkened area I'm interested in fixing. I think it must've been the apple leather cleaner (not sure the pH of that cleaner) but, I've used bick 4 conditioner on the bag many times with no problems. It darkens some areas, but after a little while, the darkening goes away (only temporary). In this case, the darkening doesn't go away. I took a pic of the side with the darkened quadrant and the side that is fine.
I've considered just buying polish to touch it up - but have been told lighter colored polish (as this would be the case) will not cover a dark area -- is that true?
Will the products you described in the previous post help remedy/lighten this darkened area?
Also - I noticed one area on the handle is experiencing the same thing -- I believe I used the leather cleaner there too. I took a picture of another handle that has scratches - but light, not darkened. (here, I didn't use any leather cleaner - hence, my suspicion that it's the cleaner)>
Finally - I noticed some tiny spots - very small, like pin size - when I use conditioner on the leather and they disappear too, but why does it do that -- are those "thirsty" areas that need some hydrator 3.3?
Thanks for your input after reviewing the pictures -- I'd love to lighten this darkening. I rationalize it's just looks "weathered" in some lights - but, if I can help it, I want to!!
Thanks again,
GraceAttachment 1063Attachment 1064Attachment 1065Attachment 1066Attachment 1067
Hi Roger,
Thanks for the detailed response. As requested, here are pix of my bag & the darkened area I'm interested in fixing. I think it must've been the apple leather cleaner (not sure the pH of that cleaner) but, I've used bick 4 conditioner on the bag many times with no problems. It darkens some areas, but after a little while, the darkening goes away (only temporary). In this case, the darkening doesn't go away. I took a pic of the side with the darkened quadrant and the side that is fine.
Darkening Effect:
Darkening effect on absorbent leather should only be temporary during cleaning showing the present of solution.
Once it dries the leather appearance should revert to original appearance, otherwise it shows that the solution residue is still present.
It may be a case of over concentration of the solution used example would be using Prep-4.4 and not using Cleaner-3.8 and Rinse-3.0 as a follow up.
Darkening effect could may happens when alkaline solution is used without neutralized and pH balance with an acidic leather pH stabilizer, example would be using d’Protein-10 without using Acidifier-2.0 as an antidote.
The above improper follow-up cleaning after the stains are removed are examples of how a darkening effect will result.
In your situation, you did not mention what was the original stains and the product unknown pH value could be a bad combination.
If the stain is alkaline and the cleaning product is alkaline without a pH stabilizer to balance the pH, then the pH value may be further compounded and denature the leather.
Was the darkening effect already existed prior to cleaning it?
These above tips are for your consideration when comes to take care of leathers.
As mentioned leather is a protein fiber and becomes as leather through preserving it with a tanning agent, softening it with fat and oil, besides the dyestuff that provides the colors. The protein fiber has to be ionic positive to keep the leather healthy and is done with products with a pH value below 4.
Between our skin and leather, our skin is alive and any alkaline overexposure is taken care or with an acidic defensive system with control with a pH of 5.5.
The leather will need our understanding to do it for itself; it does not have an auto system to rectify its own pH damage.
This pictures I marked in red shows micro cracking, this is a sign of pH damages that affect the tanning agents – a test out with a wet finger will indicate a smoother feel and in advance stage will be tacky and revert to rawhide – simply say alkaline pH will rot the leather eventually – and has started.
The red mark lines show the leather has developed cracks - results of alkaline overexposure, leather denaturing into rawhide.
Attachment 1085
I've considered just buying polish to touch it up - but have been told lighter colored polish (as this would be the case) will not cover a dark area -- is that true?
This is a leather health issue and not a make-up issue.
Will the products you described in the previous post help remedy/lighten this darkened area?
This leather is already damaged physically with cracks showing, solution to the problems are:
1. pH correction with possible the use of Degreaser-2.2 follows with Acidifier-2.0. – this rectification may revert the leather back to a squeaky feel.
2. Hydrating and fat & oil replenishing to soften the leather from stiffness are mandatory with Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0.
3. Thereafter, we think about how best to improves it appearance – the darkening effect when rectify will shows a lightening color with loss of dyestuff
So, three areas need to address once the leather is out of pH balance, 1) tanning agents, 2) fatliquor and 3) dyestuff.
Also - I noticed one area on the handle is experiencing the same thing -- I believe I used the leather cleaner there too. I took a picture of another handle that has scratches - but light, not darkened. (here, I didn't use any leather cleaner - hence, my suspicion that it's the cleaner)>
Please check out the pH of the “cleaner”, or you can mail samples for us to read the pH value for you.
Finally - I noticed some tiny spots - very small, like pin size - when I use conditioner on the leather and they disappear too, but why does it do that -- are those "thirsty" areas that need some hydrator 3.3?
Please take a close-up shot and we can go from there, or indicate which pictures (give a number to the pictures) you have already posted.
Thanks for your input after reviewing the pictures -- I'd love to lighten this darkening. I rationalize it's just looks "weathered" in some lights - but, if I can help it, I want to!!
The darkening areas already show damages to the 3 leather constituents I mentioned above - 1) tanning agents, 2) fatliquor and 3) dyestuff.
Thanks again,
Grace
Hi Roger -Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
Thank you so much for the detailed reply & tons of information - I'm a little distressed that this area on my bag is rotting!
I acquired it second hand in January & it wasn't that dark. I used APPLE LEATHER CLEANER (do you know the pH of this cleaner?) on it as I noticed some discoloration & it definitely made it MUCH darker. I think it must've been an alkaline stain that dried & then by using APPLE LEATHER CLEANER (if it's too alkaline?), I just made it worsen. I've noticed it's lightened quite a bit since I took the picture, but I want to fix it as per the process you've outlined above. I'll contact you about placing an order by e-mail.
Regarding the little dots - I tried to photograph -- attached with arrows to specify the areas I'm talking about, please let me know if you can see it and what you think might help.
Thanks!Attachment 1086
Check out if they have a MSDS (material safety data sheet), the pH value should be there.
Otherwise send a sample and I read it for you.
To be able to do an embossing, that is the logo; this leather has to be a combined vegetable tanned using tannin material from plants and vegetation.
These brown dots are probably due to the tannin pigmentation – the possibility is to use d’Tannin-3.5 to reduce the darkening effect.
Note:
Alkaline cleaners will cause darkening to especially vegetable-Tanned leathers with too great of pH differences.
A vegetable-tanned leathers has a lower pH of 3 than most chrome-tanned leathers.
Acidity lightens and alkalinity darkens.
Awesome set of cleaner. DO you have any information regarding online store to purchase this cleaning kit and cost details? Waiting for reply.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
Thank you for your interest.
Please email me [email protected]
Roger
>>>Hi Roger -
>>>I received the kit the other day and am excited to work on the bag.
>>>Is there a link to a section on your site with explicit directions- not just the steps?
>>>My main questions are:
>>>1) Do I need to wait for the bag to dry between each product?
>>>2) Is it OK if the product liquids touch areas of the bag that are not greased stained? Will any of the products harm leather in good condition?
In this “Kit V5.dr - Leather Degreaser kit” is design for three aspect of restoration, a) penetrated contaminated and failed attempt of grease removal, b) rejuvenate the leather structure and c) improving of appearance with the healing concealing effect from Protector-D as a substitute for an actual restoration not included in this kit.
It would be best to see the result after Fatliquor-5.0 to decide the nest move. If the damage is slight, it will be OK to proceed with Protector-D. If the topcoat is damaged and color loss waiting to be reveal, then it is best to
restore it accordingly with possible Impregnator-26, Aniline-76 and matching topcoat prior to Protector-D.
Sequence of Process:
1.] Shake the Degreaser-2.2 to gel prior to application.
2.] Start off with applying Degreaser-2.2 to the stain area and gently agitate with the horsehair detailing brush.
3.] Towel extraction can follows immediately when the surface stain is released until the towel shows clean.
4.] Reapply and work the product into the leather and let it dwell for half an hour or before it dries.
5.] Spray Rinse-3.0 to the spot and brush agitate to rinse off suspended stains and until towel shows, clean.
6.] Apply the Degreaser-2.2 over the entire panel with brush agitation and follows with Rinse-3.0.
7.] Towel extracts the entire panel.
8.] Let it dry naturally, when crispy dry penetrated suspended soiling may surface to be erased off with Eraser-9.] Do this erasing (with the sponge side) gently as pre-damages are clearly reveal at this stage.
10.] Please show pictures to decide if the degreasing need repeated or to proceed to leather rejuvenating system with Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0.
Roger Koh
[email protected]
Here are the general information for Kit V5.dr. . .
Kit V5.dr – Leather Degreaser Kit
Leather Doctor® Kit V5.dr, vachetta, saddlery and veg-tan leather degreaser kit is an innovative leather-safe degreasing system for removing grease and sweat contamination. When sweat accumulates and ages it shift alkaline, besides the apparent darkening effect it will also impart a sticky feel to the leather. Leather is composed of protein fiber with other leather constituents like the tanning agents and the fatliquor. The tanning agent preserves the leather while the fatliquor softens it. The protein fiber is amphoteric while the other component is non-amphoteric. They come together by hydrogen bonding. When the pH of the leather rises due to the sweat, the protein fiber begins to shift ionic negative and breaks bond with the ionic negative tanning agent and the fatliquor. The protein fiber loosing the ionic attraction from the tannin agent denatures and revert the leather to rawhide as experience with tackiness or stickiness in extreme cases. The stiffness of the leather is due to the loss of the fatliquor that lubricates the fibers thus the fiber becomes stick together and when flex cracks. The darkening effect is partially contributes by high pH exposure, as alkaline darkens and acidity lightens the appearance of leather. To rectify the compound problem the grease and sweat contamination is remove. The protein fiber is degreased and recharged ionic positive below its iso-electric point (pI) by using Degreaser-2.2 follows by Acidifier-2.0. This combination degreasing and rinsing process should improve the darkening effect while reversing the leather to a healthy squeaky feel. Hydrator-3.3 helps rectify alkaline overexposure areas by facilitating colloidal water movement to redistribute the leather constituents from surrounding areas, while purging foreign contamination to resurface and charging the protein fiber below its iso-electric point (pI) ionic positive to hydrogen bond with the ionic negative fatliquor more effectively. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to return the leather for softness and suppleness when dry. Protector-D+ heals and conceals scuff and abrasion marks; imparts a rub resistant draggy-feel against friction rubs and shield against sticky soiling while prolonging the appearance of the leather longer. Note that the mentioned products suffix numbers denotes its pH value for a safer degreasing approach to pH sensitive leather. Leather is an amphoteric material and shifting of it pH value obliviously causes the leather to darkens, denature and reverts to rawhide.
Instruction:
Degreasing
It is important to note that Degreaser-2.2 need to be shaken to gel prior to use by a repeat shake and pause rhythm.
1. Apply and agitate to saturate the contamination with the horsehair detailing brush for penetration and Eraser-4 for surface removal.
2. Terry towel extract emulsified and suspended soiling until it shows clean.
3. Spray Acidifier-2.0 to saturate, agitate and towel extract until it shows clean.
4. Let naturally dry for soiling particulates to resurface.
5. Erase wick up soiling particulates with Eraser-4 and inspect with either repeating degreasing process or proceed to hydrating
Hydrating
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3, saturating the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for effective colloidal movement to take place both redistributing leather constituent from surrounding area while purging foreign soiling particulates to resurface.
3. Remove plastic wrapping, replace with tissue paper without airspace to trap stains as it dries instead of remaining on the surface.
4. Peel tissue paper when crispy dry and erase with Eraser-4 prior to fatliquor replenishing.
Fat and Oil Replenishing
1. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 and redistribute the entire section evenly with foam brush until fully saturated.
2. Repeat reapplication when water content evaporates until fully saturated.
3. Let natural dry for extra softness and wick up soiling particulates is erases with Eraser-4 when crispy dry.
Rub-Resistant Protection
1. Mist sprays Protector-D+ foam brush or paper towel redistribute it and is ready for use when dry.
Kit Content and Product Description:
Leather Doctor® Degreaser-2.2 (120ml)
Degreaser-2.2 is a waterbased pH 2.2 high viscosity formulated leather degreaser. It is for degreasing leather of penetrated oil, grease and sweat stains from skin and hair contact. Emulsified contamination is rinse with Rinse-3.0 to a squeaky-feel. It is important to note that Degreaser-2.2 need to be shaken to gel prior to use by a repeat shake and pause rhythm.
Leather Doctor® Acidifier-2.0 (250ml)
Acidifier-2.0 is a waterbased pH 2.0 leather acidifier to pH balance alkaline overexposure and returning the leather to a healthy squeaky-feel. It is to strengthen the ionic bond between the tanning agent and the leather protein fiber from denaturing and reverting to rawhide.
Leather Doctor® Hydrator-3.3 (250ml)
Hydrator-3.3 is a waterbased pH 3.3 leather-safe hydrator. It is a fatliquor preconditioner with multi functional abilities. Surface application is primary to check for even surface tension free of blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. Structural application will require saturating to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. The multi functional abilities include: a) to check for surface tension for an even appearance free from blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. b) To plumps, relaxes and separates crushed, shrunk and stick together fibrils for manipulating away-unwanted creases and wrinkles. c) To rectify alkaline overexposure areas by facilitating colloidal water movement to redistribute the leather constituents from surrounding areas. d) To activate the dormant dyestuff within the leather structure for color refreshing. e) To facilitates colloidal water movement within the inter-fibrillary spaces for wicking foreign soiling particulates to resurface. f) To stabilize, pH balance and charge the protein fiber below its iso-electric point (pI) ionic positive to hydrogen bond with the ionic negative fatliquor more effectively. This universal Hydrator-3.3 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.
Leather Doctor® Fatliquor-5.0 (250ml)
Fatliquor-5.0, a micro emulsion of fat, oil and water is an anionic charged pH 5.0 fatliquor for rejuvenating all leather types. It relaxes coarse breaks, creases and wrinkles enhance suppleness and prevent cracking. It softens the leather with stretchability, compressibility and flexibility, while enhancing its rip tensile strength greatly. It is for replenishing the original fat and oil that diminishes thru sun-bleaching, ageing, heat and alkaline overexposure or cleaning. On application, the water-encased molecule breaks free when hydrogen bond attraction takes place between the fat and oil with the protein fiber. The excess free water content wicks out leaving a breathing space behind for leather natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness from easily collapsing into creases and wrinkles during stress or flex, while the oil lubricates the fibers so that they slide over one another smoothly like millions of inter-connecting hinges. Thus helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing. This universal Fatliquor-5.0 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.
Leather Doctor® Protector-D+ (120ml)
Protector-D+ is a non-film forming, non-stick rub-resistant protector that enhances a draggy-feel with a classic leather scent. It imparts a non-stick breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling. Its natural draggy-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch, scuff and abrasion. It is as a scuff repairer, filling and concealing surface scuffs to improve appearance. The drag produces an unforgettable familiar sound sweet to the ears when leather is rubbed.
Leather Brush-1 (1pc)
Leather Brush-1 is a horsehair detailing brush design ergonomically to be an extension of our hand with a sturdy grooved grip. It is design to produce effective result easily and efficiently. It is recommend for all smooth leather for a soft and scratch-free cleaning. Its length is 7 inches with a three-row bristle 1˝ inches cleaning head.
3 inch Poly-Brush (1 pc)
Poly Brush is a dense foam that resists tearing and shredding and carries more material. It has a solid wood handle that allows greater control for quality results. It is for controlling and spreading fatliquor for a more even distribution.
Paper Towel Rags (5 pc)
This rag works like cloth, lint free, highly absorbent and washable. General application is for extracting suspended soiling or for spreading hydrator, fatliquor or protector. It is for both dye and topcoat padding for smooth leathers.
Hi Roger -Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
I just discovered that you posted this information on the forum in response to my e-mail - I wish you'd replied to my e-mail and told me.
Given I never heard back from you - I tried to follow the instructions on the bottles, but found them difficult to follow. Not to mention, some of the products (like the degreaser) have a VERY strong chemical smell (I can almost feel my brain damage happening).
In step #5 - you say to use Rinse 3.0 - HOWEVER, the kit you told me to buy does NOT have Rinse 3.0. How am I supposed to do that? I used Acidifier 2.0 as that's what you said in an earlier post.
In any case- after following the steps (and not realizing to wait for the leather to dry "crispy dry" before proceeding to hydrator/fat liquor) - I've managed to make the bag look MUCH WORSE than when I started.
Needless to say, Im devastated.
Anyways - if you can tell me what I might do to fix this and salvage my bag - even to make it look like it did before I ever bought and used your products - I'd be grateful.
My bag is DARKER and VERY CRISPY DRY. As I e-mailed to you - I'm afraid to use the fat liquor as I read that on another forum (where people seemed to disagree with you emphatically) that the fat liquor will ROT OR MOLD my bag.
Thanks
From: Grace Esteban [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Sunday, May 05, 2013 11:10 PM
To: Roger Koh
Subject: Re: Online Store - temporarily closed?
Hi Roger -
I'm going to report your products to the authorities here in the US given that you've sold them and refuse to provide any support for them after purchase.
I will also post my experiences with you on blogs so that other unsuspecting consumers will know the problems.
Thanks,
Grace
Please see my post #12.
May I help, what is your stage of progress?
Roger Koh
[email protected]
Grace,
Your problems emailed to me is the darkening effect after fatliquor which is normal as anticipated from my post #12
It is not a big concern when you do accordingly to instruction.
There are three options to rectify the situation and I must have pictures to give the best advice and these steps should solve the problem:
1] Erase the wick-up soiling particulates with Eraser-4 will improve appearance.
2] The prior damaged areas may need a little stretching to lightening up the appearance.
3] There is a possibilities that there is too much fatliquor as the prior damage areas becomes more absorbent.
4] The technique is to spread out these process to the entire panel and not to concentrate only on the pre damaged areas.
Please post your pictures and help will be there to determine the next best move.
Roger Koh
[email protected]
Roger,
I am waiting for my kit to arrive but have a question about the Hydrating step. What sort of tissue should be used and should I wrap the bag in plastic wrap (food wrap) or could I use a plastic garbage bag?
Thanks
Hydrating
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3, saturating the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for effective colloidal movement to take place both redistributing leather constituent from surrounding area while purging foreign soiling particulates to resurface.
3. Remove plastic wrapping, replace with tissue paper without airspace to trap stains as it dries instead of remaining on the surface.
4. Peel tissue paper when crispy dry and erase with Eraser-4 prior to fatliquor replenishing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zippy14u
The purposes for using tissue are
1) As an extension of the leather surface for trapping wick-up soiling, as it resurface for easy peeling off rather than letting it remaining on the leather surface.
2) It is to act as a reservoir to allow the slow absorption into the leather structure.
For the above purpose 1) a facial tissue like the common Kleenex will do.
For the above purpose 2) use the paper towel provided from the kit.
Tips:
As yours is an easily absorbent lambskin above 1) and 2) is rule out as your purpose is to activate the dyestuff and cling wrapping will do after you saturate the leather entirely.
>>>and should I wrap the bag in plastic wrap (food wrap) or could I use a plastic garbage bag?
It does not matter, the purpose is to control evaporation and preferably they are transparent and you can see through that it is kept saturated during the dwell.
Follow this instruction and show pictures of the steps if you have done it correctly.
D. Activating Dormant Dyestuff to Resurface:
D1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
D2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for excess dyestuff to resurface.
D2. Remove plastic cover and let it natural dry to observe color improvement prior to fatliquor replenishing.
The purposes for using tissue are
1) As an extension of the leather surface for trapping wick-up soiling, as it resurface for easy peeling off rather than letting it remaining on the leather surface.
2) It is to act as a reservoir to allow the slow absorption into the leather structure.
For the above purpose 1) a facial tissue like the common Kleenex will do.
For the above purpose 2) use the paper towel provided from the kit.
Tips:
As yours is an easily absorbent lambskin above 1) and 2) is rule out as your purpose is to activate the dyestuff and cling wrapping will do after you saturate the leather entirely.
By "1) and 2) is rule out ", does this mean that I am to skip this step and just wrap the bag in plastic?
Yes!Quote:
Originally Posted by Zippy14u
Follow this instruction for activating the dormant dyestuff.
D. Activating Dormant Dyestuff to Resurface:
D1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
D2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for excess dyestuff to resurface.
D2. Remove plastic cover and let it natural dry to observe color improvement prior to fatliquor replenishing.
For your information here are instructions for specific purposes and the blue highlighted applies to your situation:
Instruction:
A. Surface Tension Inspection:
A1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 evenly and wipe with lint free towel to free of surface tension for an even appearance prior to fatliquor replenishing.
B. Stiffness, Creases and Wrinkles:
B1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
B2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell for softness.
B3. Manipulate by stretching and cross flexing to relax the leather prior to fatliquor replenishing.
C. Rectify Alkaline Overexposure:
C1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
C2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell for redistributing of the leather constituents from surrounding area.
C3. Observe for appearance and test by finger for tactile squeaky feel prior to fatliquor replenishing.
D. Activating Dormant Dyestuff to Resurface:
D1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
D2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for excess dyestuff to resurface.
D2. Remove plastic cover and let it natural dry to observe color improvement prior to fatliquor replenishing.
E. Removing Penetrated Stains:
E1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
E2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for foreign soiling particulates to resurface.
E3. Remove plastic wrapping, replace with tissue paper without airspace to trap stains as it dries instead of remaining on the surface.
E4. Peel tissue paper when crispy dry and erase with Eraser-4 or Eraser-5 for suede accordingly prior to fatliquor replenishing.
Roger,
Received my kit this afternoon. Am excited (and apprehensive) about getting started. Will let you know when I get started (probably tomorrow). Thanks for the kit.:o
Recommend that you follow this sequence of process.
1. Restorative Cleaning:
This phase using Degreaser-2.2 follows with Acidifier-2.0 is to degrease foreign contamination prior to Hydrator-3.3, Fatliquor-5.0 and ends with Protector-D+/D.
1.1. Shake the Degreaser-2.2 well to gel.
1.2. Transfer to the horsehair Brush-1 and apply direct onto the leather a section at a time with an even appearance.
1.3. Spray Acidifier-2.0 agitate with Brush-1 with an even appearance and terry towel extract until towel shows clean.
2. Leather Hydrating:
While the leather is damp and the towel extraction shows clean with no obvious stains or marks proceed with Hydrator-3.3. If there are penetrating marks or stain that is resurfacing then use E instruction instead.
D. Activating Dormant Dyestuff to Resurface:
D1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
D2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for excess dyestuff to resurface.
D2. Remove plastic cover and let it natural dry to observe color improvement prior to fatliquor replenishing.
E. Removing Penetrated Stains:
E1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
E2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for foreign soiling particulates to resurface.
E3. Remove plastic wrapping, replace with tissue paper without airspace to trap stains as it dries instead of remaining on the surface.
E4. Peel tissue paper when crispy dry and erase with Eraser-4 prior to fatliquor replenishing.
3. Fatliquoring:
3.1. Apply Fatliquor-5.0 and redistribute with foam brush until saturation.
3.2. Repeat application each time water contents evaporate until fully saturated.
3.3 Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with Hydrator-3.3.
3.4. Allow natural drying for extra softness.
Tips:
1. When crispy dry, prior surface contaminations/damages may darkens as soiling particulates resurface.
2. Removes soiling particulates with Eraser-4.
3. Stretching the darken areas lightly will also lightens the appearance.
4. Protection:
4.1. Shake well, mist spray and spread evenly with absorbent towel
4.2. Let natural dry and it is ready for use.
Specific help is easier if you include pictures.
Roger Koh
[email protected]
I have started the cleaning process.
The bag is now in the 30 min wait period.
I mess up on the first round of cleaning (didn't give it a dwell time).
Re-read the instructions, hoping I'm doing it right this time.
Already starting to look good.
#1
Attachment 1310
#2
Attachment 1311
The bag is now wrapped in plastic.
Attachment 1312
3. Fatliquoring:
3.1. Apply Fatliquor-5.0 and redistribute with foam brush until saturation.
3.2. Repeat application each time water contents evaporate until fully saturated.
3.3 Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with Hydrator-3.3.
3.4. Allow natural drying for extra softness.
Sorry, I'm not clear on this part:
3.3 Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with Hydrator-3.3.
Thanks
There may be some instants that the fatliquor did not penetrate the surface well and when dry on the surface may produce a sheen and sticky to the touch. Hydrator-3.3 spraying over the entire bag to check will turn the strays milky and either wipes them off or drives them into the leather until the spray check is all clear.
Thanks, I'll check for that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
Tips:Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
1. When crispy dry, prior surface contaminations/damages may darkens as soiling particulates resurface.
2. Removes soiling particulates with Eraser-4.
3. Stretching the darken areas lightly will also lightens the appearance.
Forgot to ask how to use Eraser-4...
There are two sides to the Eraser-4.
Use the sponge side to erase gently darkens areas and to the entire surface where soiling particulates may resurface during the wicking process for better appearance.
Okay, the plastic is off and the bag is drying. I do see some dark areas but will wait until the bag is completely dry to see if it gets better. Then will try using the sponge.
Attachment 1318Attachment 1319
Try stretching away any creases or wrinkles while the leather is hydrated.
This should be done prior to fatliquoring it; anyway, it is not too late to stretch it for a smarter appearance.
Tips:
A good stuffing with towels or paper into the bag will reduce creases during the dwell wrapping.
There were a lot of dark areas but the eraser did a good job on lighting them. The surface of the bag has really improved. Though not perfect, it is better than it was.
Attachment 1320Attachment 1321
Roger,
I did the Fatliquoring and the bag is dry. While the feel of the bag is much better, there are still some areas that still need improvement.:(
Should I repeat the process again or just concentrate on the areas that need work?
Thanks
Attachment 1323Attachment 1324Attachment 1325Attachment 1326
Repeat the process evenly without blotchiness.
Tips:
An even appearance at all stages of the process contributes to the general appearance.
When leather is dry after fatliquoring, a little stretching, staking, flexing or massaging will soften it.
Any darkening appearance may be penetrated stains and may be removed by brushing/erasing and towel extracted while the leather is saturated during hydrating and fatliquoring as well.
Thank you (thought I might have to do that)Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
Did some flexing/stretching/massaging of the bag this morning, the appearance did improve.:) Will still repeat the process.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
Please to know the latest outcome, does the leather lighten up?
Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
This came in very handy as I had the same issue with my own bag, thanks for the tips!
Julie Mathews
Bond Cleaning Gold Coast