YSL - Clean and repair YSL Downtown bag

Leather Finishes Identification:
This leather finishes type is identified as Micro-Pigmented (Semi-Aniline) that uses an opaque coloring for its finishes with its matching topcoat of satin luster. For matching color, it looks like it is almost white with a shade of black and a tint of ochre to match up.
You may see the available primary colors from this link: http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...-54/Categories

This Micro-Pigmented Leather Problem Solving Guide will be used as reference to cleaning and restoration for this bag.

Attachment 1634
Micro-Pigmented Leather Problem Solving Guide.

>>>The handles are in pretty bad shape where they were held as in the attached picture

The darker shade of colors we see are the missing finishes. Sweat from body contact may have weakened the leather crust that fails the finishes adhesion. This weakening of the leather protein fiber have to be restored by charging it positive again with cleaning solutions that are low in pH value. Example Degreaser-2.2 is a pH 2.2 degreaser that both degreases and charges the leather protein fiber ionic positive (+ve). Acidifier-2.0 with a pH 2.0 is used to rinse and for ionic charging the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) at the same time as well.

Notice the needle holes cracking; the leather is dry of its fatliquor and when flex cracks the stiff leather. It may feel soft now, but the tensile strength weakens. Much of leather strength up to 2000psi for stitching tear strength depends much on the fatliquor (fat, oil and water) in the leather. This is accomplished with the help of Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0 replenishing.

>>>There is an ink mark where it looks like someone rubbed it pretty hard - so there is ink and then an orange color around it (similar to where the handles were worn on the leather).
The orange color around is the missing finishes (sealercoat, colorcoat and topcoat).
The failed ballpoint ink removing attempt has cause finishes damages and now the ink goes deeper into the leather structure instead of just remains on the surface for easier removal. Ink removal now becomes more difficult as we are now dealing with absorbent leather. Since we are now removing the ink stain from within the leather structure we have to use a leather-safe ink remover instead with Prep-4.4. With a pH of 4.4 it is close to the pH neutral of leather (3-5). The Prep-4.4 will dislodge the ink stain from the protein fiber; it then has to be wick up with the help of Hydrator-3.3 to the surface to be erased with leather Eraser-4. The removal of the ink is vital, as otherwise mere covering up with matching finishes will see them wick through the finish soon.

>>>There are a couple of scrapes and scuffs
Repair is by refinishing with a 3 step matching products – Adhesor-73 for sealing, Micro-54 for coloring and MicroTop-54S for sealing the coloring. Protector-B+ will lubricate the surface with a buttery that impart a non-stick, rub-resistant surface.

>>>and some jean color transfer - although this is really light on the back.
Again refer to the Problem Solving Guide for Blue Jeans stain – there you will find 3 steps – Prep-7.7 > Clean-3.8 >Rinse-3.0. Protector-B+ will reduce friction rubs with reduce rubbing noise that translate into less prone to jean and other fabric dye transfer stain.

>>>What can I do to restore this bag?
Products mentioned are found in this Kit Sa7.cl

Attachment 1633

Leather Doctor® Kit Sa7.cl, micro-pigmented leather color refinishing kit is design for a holistic restoration approach to not only the finishes but also rejuvenating the leather for suppleness. Most of these repairs may range from missing finishes to abrading damages into the leather structure. Some expose areas may be contaminated with foreign soiling that includes conditioners, protectors, body oil, grease and sweat or alkaline overexposure from cleaners. A comprehensive repair for a long-term lasting solution will require a holistic approach to deal with both the exposed structure and surface finishes. The practical and functional softness and strength of the leather depends on the health of the structure with average thickness between 0.9 to 1.2mm from stiffness and cracking. The aesthetic aspect of the leather finishes averages 0.02mm (or 20 micron) in thickness for practical compressing and flexing from cracking. A leather-safe restoration system begins by stripping with Stripper-2.3 and rinsing with Rinse-3.0. Degreasing with Degreaser-2.2 follows with Acidifier-2.0. The suffix numbers of these four products denotes it pH value for recharging the protein fiber ionic positive besides the act of decontamination. The leather integrity is revitalizes once the ionic attraction between the positive protein fiber and its negative leather constituents like the tanning agent and fatliquor (fat, oil and water) is initiated. Leather rejuvenating system for softness and strength is accomplishes with Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0. Surface uneven absorption is seals with Adhesor-73 to reduce the need for color over-coating thus increase its flexibility and stretchability from premature cracking. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant surface with a buttery feel, reduces noises that translate into less friction wear. As the leather surface is well lubricated it reduces compression when comes to heavy body contact thus reduces compressed creases and wrinkles.

Instruction:

Stripping Existing Deteriorating Finishes:
1. Cover and tape off frames, trims and protect flooring.
2. Mist sprays Stripper-2.3, Eraser-4 scrub with help of 2000-grit sandpaper feathering out seamlessly and towel extract for an even appearance.

Degreasing:
1. Shake Degreaser-2.2 to gel prior to use with a repeat shake and rest until it gels.
2. Transfer to Eraser-4; agitate to saturate the stain, feather out to the entire section.
3. Towel extracts suspended soiling after 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries until it shows clean.
4. Spray Acidifier-2.0, towel extract until it shows clean to a healthy squeak.

Hydrating:
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 saturating the stain area and feather out for an even appearance.
2. Covering with tissue paper without airspace to trap wick up stains instead of remaining on the leather surface as it dries.
3. Peel tissue paper when crispy dry and use Eraser-4 to erase surface residue prior to fat and oil replenishing.

Fat and Oil Replenishing:
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 to precondition the leather prior to fat and oil replenishing.
2. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 and redistribute with foam brush until saturation.
3. Repeat application each time water contents evaporate until fully saturated.
4. Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with Hydrator-3.3.
5. Allow natural drying for extra softness.

Dry Prep:
1. Erase wick-up residue with Eraser-4 prior to repairs.

Adhesion Promotion Coating:
1. Apply Adhesor-73 by foam brush to seal surface uneven absorption rate and promote adhesion simultaneously.

Color Coating:
1. Apply Micro-54 by foam brush, varnishing brush or airbrushing for professional result.
2. Fine dry atomize dispersion with more air is achieve with 80 to 100psi of air pressure.
3. Light spray is preferred and let dry in between coats to build up colorcoat.

Topcoating:
1. Shake the product well and apply by airbrushing for professional result.
2. Use lint free paper towel to even out drips and streaks.
3. Speed dries between coats with help of hair dryer.
4. 2000-grit sanding may applies to improve touch and appearance.

Rub-Resistant Protection:
1. Mist sprays Protector-B+ redistribute with a foam brush / paper towel and ready for use when dry.

Kit Content and Product Description:

Leather Doctor® Stripper-2.3 (120ml)
Stripper-2.3 is a duality pH 2.3 residue free hydrocarbon formulated leather finish stripper with bleeding control.

Leather Doctor® Rinse-3.0 (250ml)
Rinse-3.0 is a pH 3.0 leather-safe rinse for pH balancing alkalinity and removing all traces of cleaning residue to a healthy squeaky-feel.

Leather Doctor® Degreaser-2.2 (120ml)
Leather Doctor® Degreaser-2.2 is a pH 2.2 leather-safe waterbased degreaser with dye bleeding control. It is design for degreasing leather of penetrated oil, grease and sweat stains from skin, and hair contact, especially the headrest and armrest of upholstery, collar and cuffs of garment, handles of bag including steering wheel. It works best in conjunction with Rinse-3.0 to rinse emulsified soiling or Acidifier-2.0 for rinsing, bleeding control and pH balancing sweaty contamination from leather denaturing into rawhide. This universal leather degreaser is for all leather types including the common pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck and suede.

Leather Doctor® Acidifier-2.0 (250ml)
Leather Doctor® Acidifier-2.0 is a waterbased pH 2.0 leather acidifier designs for controlling dye bleeding in conjunction with Degreaser-2.2 in extreme prolong oil, grease and sweat decontamination system. As a standalone, it is for pH balancing alkaline overexposure that manifest as marks, streaks, brightness and tackiness. This universal acidifier is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin leather types.

Leather Doctor® Hydrator-3.3 (250ml)
Leather Doctor® Hydrator-3.3 is a waterbased pH 3.3 leather-safe hydrator. It is a fatliquor preconditioner with multi functional abilities. Surface application is primary to check for even surface tension free of blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. Structural application will require saturating to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. The multi functional abilities include: a) to check for surface tension for an even appearance free from blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. b) To plumps, relaxes and separates crushed, shrunk and stick together fibrils for manipulating away-unwanted creases and wrinkles. c) To rectify alkaline overexposure areas by facilitating colloidal water movement to redistribute the leather constituents from surrounding areas. d) To activate the dormant dyestuff within the leather structure for color refreshing. e) To facilitates colloidal water movement within the inter-fibrillary spaces for wicking foreign soiling particulates to resurface. f) To stabilize, pH balance and charge the protein fiber below its iso-electric point (pI) ionic positive to hydrogen bond with the ionic negative fatliquor more effectively. This universal Hydrator-3.3 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.

Leather Doctor® Fatliquor-5.0 (250ml)
Leather Doctor® Fatliquor-5.0, a micro emulsion of fat, oil and water is an anionic charged pH 5.0 fatliquor for rejuvenating all leather types. It relaxes coarse breaks, creases and wrinkles enhance suppleness and prevent cracking. It softens the leather with stretchability, compressibility and flexibility, while enhancing its rip tensile strength greatly. It is for replenishing the original fat and oil that diminishes thru sun-bleaching, ageing, heat and alkaline overexposure or cleaning. On application, the water-encased molecule breaks free when hydrogen bond attraction takes place between the fat and oil with the protein fiber. The excess free water content wicks out leaving a breathing space behind for leather natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness from easily collapsing into creases and wrinkles during stress or flex, while the oil lubricates the fibers so that they slide over one another smoothly like millions of inter-connecting hinges. Thus helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing. This universal Fatliquor-5.0 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.

Leather Doctor® Adhesor-73 (60ml)
Leather Doctor® Adhesor-73 is an auxiliary for refinishing pigmented, aniline, bicast and simulated leathers. This is a waterbased compact resin adhesion promoter for a) smoothening abraded surfaces, b) ensure proper sealing and adhesion prior to color coating and c) used after Wax Effect-8.6 prior to topcoat application.

Leather Doctor® Micro-54 (60ml)
Leather Doctor® Micro-54 is design for micro pigmented leathers also known as semi-aniline. This is a waterbased compact resin blend high performance UV fade resistant pigment color coat. MicroTop-54 is the matching sealing topcoat in this pigment series system. Sixteen (16) standard colors are available for direct application or mix to match to produce a secondary or tertiary color.

Leather Doctor® MicroTop-54M (60ml)
Leather Doctor® MicroTop-54 is a waterbased soft polyurethane topcoat design for micro-pigmented also known as semi-aniline leathers. This is lightfast and non-yellowing, has excellent flow and leveling properties, recoatable and forms a flexible tough film. Luster level is available in Matte, Gloss and Satin. Leather Doctor® Protector-B+ (120ml)

Leather Doctor® Protector-B+, a buttery-feel with a classic leather scent is design for pigmented, aniline and nubuck oil pull-up leather types. This is a non-film forming, non-stick, rub-resistant protector that enhances a soft natural tactile feel for imparting a breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling and preventing the too common pesky ballpoint from ever ready rolling out its nasty ink. Moreover, for helping to release those tenacious blue jeans dye-transfer stains obviously on light colored leathers easily. Its natural buttery-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch; scuff and abrasion with reduce friction squeaks.

Leather Eraser-4 (1 pc)
This is a 2½ x 2¼ x ¾ inch foam rubber sponge block with a crepe side for effective dry/wet soil removal.

Leather Brush-1 (1 pc)
This horsehair detailing brush is designed ergonomically to be an extension of our hand with a sturdy grooved grip. It is design to produce effective result easily and efficiently. It is recommend for all smooth leather for a soft and scratch-free cleaning. Its length is 7 inches with a three-row bristle 1½ inches cleaning head.

3 inch Poly-Brush (1 pc)
This is a dense foam that resists tearing and shredding and carries more material. It has a solid wood handle that allows greater control for quality results. It is for controlling and spreading fatliquor for a more even distribution.

Paper Towel Rags (5 pc)
This rag works like cloth, lint free, highly absorbent and washable. General application is for extracting suspended soiling or for spreading hydrator, fatliquor or protector. It is for both dye and topcoat padding for smooth leathers.