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This deer skin art piece was used on a floor and is now in need of cleaning.
Any recommendations on the best way to approach the cleaning?
#1:
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/q...AnilineS-6.jpg
#2:
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/q...AnilineS-4.jpg
#3:
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/q...AnilineS-5.jpg
#4:
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/q...AnilineS-3.jpg
>>>This deer skin art piece was used on a floor and is now in need of cleaning. Any recommendations on the best way to approach the cleaning?
Questions need to be asked from owners the reasons behind this cleaning.
Let’s go through the inspection of this art piece before we can decide the level of cleaning appropriate to achieve the state of cleanliness that can be appreciated by the owner.
Overall, this deer skin has to be determined or cleaning product tested to determine whether it has been “tanned” or “cured”.
Tanned skin would not have a problem to go through the leather-safe (pH 3-5) cleaning process that has to include softening and strengthening with Fatliquor-5.0.
If it’s a cured skin, then dry soil removal by suede Eraser-5 is as safe as it can go.
Without the art work; we are cleaning and conditioning it as suede.
And the procedure recommended is as follows:
1: Dry soil removal and exfoliating to bring out a new nap with a “finger writing effect”.
2: Follows with vacuum dusting without scratching the art work.
3: I believe we can achieve at least 75% improvement of cleanliness with a good velvety appearance that brings out one of suede visual characteristics.
4: Unless, there is a desire to relax and soften the skin; there is no choice but to wet it out with
4a: Choice of general spotting with Prep-4.4; degreasing with Degreaser-2.2; or preconditioning with Strong Cleaner-4.3 where appropriate.
4b: Follows by cleaning off sticky residue with Cleaner-3.8.
4c: And acidifier rinse off with Rinse-3.0.
4d: At this point we should see the creases or wrinkles gone away and the skin relaxed.
4e: Otherwise, Hydrator-3.3 has to used to do the total relaxing and ease the surface tension preconditioning it for Fatliquor-5.0.
4f: Where the skin is precondition to open up its structure inter-fibrillary space it makes it easier for Fatliquor-5.0 to coats each individual fibrils and separate them for softness and strength when dry.
4g: Thereafter suede Eraser-5 removes wicked up residue as above #3:
This above procedure is without the artwork.
Let’s inspect the art work and see whether the above process is possible to accomplish.
We have to determine whether the color will bleed with every product we may used prior to direct application.
It looks like these are opaque colors and most unlikely is a bleeding problem.
However, caution is given to Picture #4 the artist signature - “Gloria”.
When using the suede Eraser-5, I suggest we cover it up with a round object and just erase around it.
And all lines are block off too with a linear object as not to remove it off.
This is a challenging work to accomplish.
And let’s see the miraculous result!
It’s a “Thumbs Up” to a budding “Leather Art Conservationist”!
Roger Koh
Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification #942
Leather Care Technician
Master Textile Cleaner
Master Fire & Smoke Restorer
Journeyman Water Restorer
Since 1973
As suggested, the protectant pictured below was used on the deer skin wall hanging around the artist's signature.
However, the protectant left a ring where it was applied (see below).
How should I proceed?
#1:
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/q...AnilineS-8.jpg
#2:
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/q...nilineS-15.jpg
Please, let us review the sequence of steps taken by you prior to this problem before further messing it up!
You have an option to mail it out to me for correction!
What do you think?
Roger Koh
Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification #942
Leather Care Technician
Master Textile Cleaner
Master Fire & Smoke Restorer
Journeyman Water Restorer
Since 1973