Any suggestions? No cleaner has worked yet.
Thanks!
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Any suggestions? No cleaner has worked yet.
Thanks!
No cleaner has worked yet do not sound good!
That is to say we are not removing the original stains, but a combination of other chemistry that might have set the stains or make it more difficult to remove.
Or the finishing topcoat might be affected by the failed attempt too, driving the stains further into the finishes.
Check the condition of the failed attempt if it is tacky or slippery.
If the leather finish becomes tacky or slippery when test with wet fingers it is not a good sign.
The condition of unhealthy finishes needs to be neutralized by acidification with leather Acidifier-2.0 (pH 2.0) to bring it back to its healthy squeaky feel if leather Rinse-3.0 fails to satisfy. Otherwise the finishes deteriorate.
However, unclean blue jean dye transfer on non-absorbent leather seat is easily taken care of by the following removing sequences.
A: Stain Removal
Step 1. Prep clean with Prep-7.7
This thick as honey Prep-7.7 (pH 7.7) works by dwelling to penetrate, lubricate and suspense the dye stains very slowly without any ill effect to the leather finishes. First initial removing is usually left to dwell for 30 minutes and rag extracts it. Second removing phase is to let it dwell for the next 3 hours and rag extracts it. And the final removing phase is to leave it dwells overnight and rag extracts it thereafter.
Step 2. Clean with Cleaner-3.8
This acidic pH 3.8 leather-safe cleaner is spray and horsehair agitates to remove the sticky Prep-7.7 residue together with the suspended dye stains.
Step 3. Rinse with Rinse-3.0
The remaining suspended residues are removed by this acidic pH 3.0 rinse to a squeaky clean.
B: Rejuvenation
Rejuvenating the leather structure with Fatliquor-5.0 (Depends on leather finishes absorbency)
The strength of the leather lies on the suppleness of the leather structure.
And the leather strength and suppleness is made possible with Fatliquor (fat, oil and water).
When fatliquor diminishes, leather becomes stiff and it will creak from perforation, needle holes and creases when flex.
It is a problem to replenish fatliquor to non-absorbent leathers.
It is useless if this fatliquor stays merely on the coating of the leathers.
The only way to benefit the leathers is through the perforation, needle holes and absorbent creases.
That’s why you see more non-absorbent leathers cracking than absorbent leathers.
C: Protection
Non-Stick Protection with Leather Scent-B.
It’s practical to protect the leather seats just like Teflon Pans.
Against sticky soiling including dye transfer and the nasty ballpoint ink that makes removing them easier.
Another protection is against wet and dry rubs that wear the leather finishes with the frequent sliding in and out especially the driver’s seat.
Do you have pictures, for more specific recommendation?
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
Thanks, Roger - I'll try to post some photos. You mention some products in your post - where can I find those? Apreciate the help!
Greg
Waiting for your pictures, to see the condition for specific instruction.
In the meantime see the product in this link:
http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...ead.php?t=2378
For price email me direct.
Roger Koh
[email protected]