Pigmented - Two-tone: * favorite sofa pair needs new lease on life *

Hello Roger,

We spoke about a half hour ago on the phone. I was thoroughly impressed with your knowledge of leather and helpful attitude, and decided to follow up on your suggestion to post here on the forum.

Below a photo from the leather sofa(s) I spoke to you of (one a three seater the other a two seater)....The original color and condition is represented in the lower left corner...The new areas look like it is one tone though the worn areas look like it may be two tones. I would dearly love to restore them to the original beauty, use the best most suitable kit, be walked through the precise procedures, and do it myself.

We have owned the sofas for about 20 years, and I am a little embarrassed viewing them in their present condition, though they do look quite a bit worse in the photo, then they normally appear.

http://www.pbase.com/norman/image/79564365.jpg



Regards,
Norman

http://www.pbase.com/image/79572113.jpg

Re: How-To refinish a 20 yrs old worn out Kela-Effect two Tone Pigmented Leather.

Leather Identification from attached Pictures
1. Pictures show it is a Kela Effect Pigmented Leather – (This effect is created by a two tone roller Kela Machine during the finishing operation).
2. Most of these leathers are non-absorbent.
Two Tone Fashion Effects can be recreated by the following methods.
A - Secondary Color Coat on Base Color Coat
1. The base lighter color (light brown) is first applied either by roller brushes or airbrushing.
2. When dried, the secondary darker color (dark brown) is then textured roller brush over or random airbrushing to create the effect.
B - Random Double Color Spray.
Airbrushing both colors simultaneously with two airbrushes to mix and blend to create the two-tone effect.
C - Monotone Effect.
Choose the darker of the two tones or a shade darker and precede either by roller brushing or airbrushing of your choice.

Restoration Refinishing Step by Step Procedure by Leather Doctor® System is as Follows:
Phase 1 – Dry Soil Removal:
Remove all cushion from the deck and brush all seams and creases with LeatherBrush1™ then vacuum of all dry soil (For IAQ use HEPA vacuum).
Do the same for leather and fabric material including the Deck.
Phase 2 – Fabric Cleaning:
Step 1 – Spray Shearling5.5™ brush with LeatherBrush1™ and extract with dry white absorbent towel.
Step 2 – Spray Rinse4.0™ and extract with dry absorbent towel and let dry.
Phase 3 – Leather Preparation Wet Cleaning and Softening.
Step 1 – Spray SuperCleaner4.0™ brush and let dwell 5 to 15 minutes for complete soil emulsification (penetration, lubrication & suspension) to occur.
Step 2 – Spray Cleaner3.8™ brush and extract with dry absorbent towel until towel shows clean.
Step 3 – Spray Rinse3.0™ brush and extract until towel shows clean.
Step 4 – While still damp spray Fatliquor5.0™ and massage to let it absorb into the thickness of the leather for softness and strength.
Step 5 – Any excess on the non-absorbent surface is to be removed with dry absorbent towel and further clean it off with Cleaner3.8™ and Rinse3.0™.
Step 6 – Without the Fatliquor5.0™ the leather may be too stiff and crack too soon, too much may interfere with adhesion (need good judgments).
Step 7 – The easiest and most effective way to soften non-absorbent leathers is to apply from the reverse suede side.
Phase 4 – Leather Preparation Dry
Step 1 – Use Sandpaper 1000, 1200 or 1500grit.
Step 2 - Remove worn, damaged top and color coat while lightly removing existing finishing without damaging the grains (for better base coat bite).
Step 2 – Brush and vacuum all dust.
Phase 5 – Repairs
Step 1 – Flaps, cuts and deep scratch need to be bond-to-heal with LeatherBond’Dark™ > LeatherBond’Aid™.
Step 2 – Deep gorges or holes need to be filled with LeatherStucco5™.
Step 3 – Worn and absorbent surfaces need to be impregnated with matching ColorSealer™ to tighten grain and impart a settled and smooth appearance that matches the original
surface (Excess sealer should be wipe away from non-absorbent surface to create a balance in coating).
Step 4 – Sanding with 1200 – 1500grit to create a smooth surface.
Phase 6 – Adhesion Coat.
The Leather Doctor® System combines adhesion with the base color coat (Therefore adhesion coating is redundant)
Phase 7 – Color Coat
Step 1 - Your choice of above A, B or C using SemiColor™.
Step 2 – In between sanding to remove micro lumps use 1500grit sandpaper.
Phase 8 – Top Coat
Step 1 - A choice of Gloss, Satin or Matte using SemiTop™ by brushing or airbrushing.
Step 2 – In between sanding to remove micro lumps use 1500grit sandpaper.
Phase 9 – Sensuous Conditioner
leatherScent’B3™ - 5 in One: legendary classic leather scent, buttery-feel, non-stick, rub-resistance and squeak reduction.

Need any further clarification for the above procedure please post your questions?

Products are available, please email me.

Thank you for your interest, and I believe you can do it; if you will.

Practice on the underside of the cushion on the sofa deck until you get the feel, with confidence.

Begin on the underside of the cushion first, then the leather hidden areas and finally on the exposed surface.

You will be learning the feel of it as you go from phase to phase.

With Leather Doctor® System 75% of the work is already done for you.

You only need 25% to perfect it.

If ever you get lost, email me pictures and it is my pleasure to guide you from there.

As I said, my service fee is $3500 (Sofa, LoveSeat and ArmChair – including materials excluding handling) for most of my happy clients.

I believe if you have the time and faith in the Leather Doctor® System you can refinish the sofa set with great satisfaction.

The same theory applies if you were to refinish your leather car-seat or your private plane-seat.

Attached pictures are some of the procedures I practice, I share with you.

Note: None of the above products mentioned are solvent-based, they are all non-combustible, non-flammable, non-hazardous and non-carcinogenic according the OSHA definition under 29 CFR 1910.1200.

Leather Doctor® System is a user friendly system designed for DIY to produce professional results.

Roger Koh
IICRC#942 LCT MTC MSR
Leather Doctor System®
[email protected]

Re: How-To refinish a 20 yrs old worn out Kela-Effect two Tone Pigmented Leather.

Leather Identification from attached Pictures
1. Pictures show it is a Kela Effect Pigmented Leather – (This effect is created by a two tone roller Kela Machine during the finishing operation).
2. Most of these leathers are non-absorbent.

Two Tone Fashion Effects can be recreated by the following methods.

A - Secondary Color Coat on Base Color Coat
1. The base lighter color (light brown) is first applied either by roller brushes or airbrushing.
2. When dried, the secondary darker color (dark brown) is then textured roller brush over or random airbrushing to create the effect.

B - Random Double Color Spray.
Airbrushing both colors simultaneously with two airbrushes to mix and blend to create the two-tone effect.

C - Monotone Effect.
Choose the darker of the two tones or a shade darker and precede either by roller brushing or airbrushing of your choice.

Restoration Refinishing Step by Step Procedure by Leather Doctor® System is as Follows:

Phase 1 – Dry Soil Removal:
Step 1 - Remove all cushion from the deck and brush all seams and creases with LeatherBrush1™ then vacuum of all dry soil (For IAQ use HEPA vacuum).
Step 2 - Do the same cleaning process for the frame leather and fabric material including the Deck.

Phase 2 – Fabric Cleaning:
Step 1 – Spray Shearling5.5™ brush with LeatherBrush1™ and extract with dry white absorbent towel.
Step 2 – Spray Rinse4.0™ and extract with dry absorbent towel and let dry.

Phase 3 – Leather Preparation Wet Cleaning and Softening.
Step 1 – Spray SuperCleaner4.0™ brush and let dwell 5 to 15 minutes for complete soil emulsification (penetration, lubrication & suspension) to occur.
Step 2 – Spray Cleaner3.8™ brush and extract with dry absorbent towel until towel shows clean.
Step 3 – Spray Rinse3.0™ brush and extract until towel shows clean.
Step 4 – While still damp spray Fatliquor5.0™ and massage to let it absorb into the thickness of the leather for softness and strength.
Step 5 – Any excess on the non-absorbent surface is to be removed with dry absorbent towel and further clean it off with Cleaner3.8™ and Rinse3.0™.
Step 6 – Without the Fatliquor5.0™ the leather may be too stiff and crack too soon, too much may interfere with adhesion (need good judgments).
Step 7 – The easiest and most effective way to soften non-absorbent leathers is to apply from the reverse suede side.

Phase 4 – Leather Preparation Dry
Step 1 – Use Sandpaper 1000, 1200 or 1500grit.
Step 2 - Remove worn, damaged top and color coat while lightly removing existing finishing without damaging the grains (for better base coat bite).
Step 2 – Brush and vacuum all dust.

Phase 5 – Repairs
Step 1 – Flaps, cuts and deep scratch need to be bond-to-heal with LeatherBond’Dark™ > LeatherBond’Aid™.
Step 2 – Deep gorges or holes need to be filled with LeatherStucco5™.
Step 3 – Worn and absorbent surfaces need to be impregnated with matching ColorSealer™ to tighten grain and impart a settled and smooth appearance that matches the original
surface (Excess sealer should be wipe away from non-absorbent surface to create a balance in coating).
Step 4 – Sanding with 1200 – 1500grit to create a smooth surface.

Phase 6 – Adhesion Coat.
The Leather Doctor® System combines adhesion with the base color coat (Therefore adhesion coating is redundant)

Phase 7 – Color Coat
Step 1 - Your choice of above A, B or C using SemiColor™.
Step 2 – In between sanding to remove micro lumps use 1500grit sandpaper.

Phase 8 – Top Coat
Step 1 - A choice of Gloss, Satin or Matte using SemiTop™ by brushing or airbrushing.
Step 2 – In between sanding to remove micro lumps use 1500grit sandpaper.

Phase 9 – Sensuous Conditioner
leatherScent’B3™ - 5 in One: legendary classic leather scent, buttery-feel, non-stick, rub-resistance and squeak reduction.

Need any further clarification for the above procedure please post your questions?

Products are available, please email me.

Thank you for your interest, and I believe you can do it; if you will.

Practice on the underside of the cushion on the sofa deck until you get the feel, with confidence.

Begin on the underside of the cushion first, then the leather hidden areas and finally on the exposed surface.

You will be learning the feel of it as you go from phase to phase.

With Leather Doctor® System 75% of the work is already done for you.

You only need 25% to perfect it.

If ever you get lost, email me pictures and it is my pleasure to guide you from there.

As I said, my service fee for a refinishing job is $3500 (Sofa, LoveSeat and ArmChair – including materials excluding handling) for most of my happy clients.

I believe if you have the time and faith in the Leather Doctor® System you can refinish the sofa set yourself with satisfaction.

The same theory applies if you were to refinish your leather car-seat or your private plane-seat.

Attached pictures are some of the procedures I practice, I share with you.

Note: None of the above products mentioned are solvent-based, they are all non-combustible, non-flammable, non-hazardous and non-carcinogenic according the OSHA definition under 29 CFR 1910.1200.

Leather Doctor® System is a user friendly system designed for DIY to produce professional results.

Roger Koh
IICRC#942 LCT MTC MSR
Leather Doctor System®
[email protected]

Here are the additional pictures in sequence -to be continued.

Roger Koh

These are the additional pictures in sequence and one last one to follow.

Roger Koh

Here is the end of the color coat.

Note only the top panel is done (panel by panel).

Next is the topcoat of choice "SemiTop", either to be glossy, satin or matte.

Then follows with the leatherScent'B3 - the 5-in-one sensuous conditioner.

The unforgettable legendary classic leather scent.

You do not know what your leather has been missing until you experience it.

Roger Koh