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Peter Callis
07-10-2012, 06:31 AM
Hi there, I have a customer with an elderly cat, which unfortunately has been sick on his mid-brown aniline sofa. The sofa also has several head/hand grease marks. I have tried several products generally available in the UK, this has improved the grease marks but the cat vomit stains are still quite bad. Can someone please advise the best course of action to take and what products to use.
Many thanks in advance.
Peter Callis :)
Dorset UK 761

Roger Koh
07-10-2012, 11:28 AM
Leather Identification:
Pictures show its aniline dyed leathers, where the natural grain (crust surface) shows through.
The right side of second picture show some crackle effect and it could be a wax pull-up effect as well (pictures from un-used areas, perhaps the reverse side of cushion may help to positively identify it.
Leather identification is important because if the original finishes damages is revealed in the degreasing or stain removing process; products are there ready to rectify it.

General structure for the entire process may consist of the following sequence of steps, but may not necessary to follow through at every step at all.

1] A Holistic Restoration:

Picture #2 – Cat vomit stains is classified as a protein stain, which has the tendency to coagulate with the leather protein fiber; thus making removal more difficult than any other stain because of its penetrating and coagulating capability within the leather structure.

a) A high pH cleaner is necessary to do the job using d’Protein-9.9 (pH 9.9) to wedge and swell the protein fiber before the stain can be release. Dwell time is also an important factor to allow the leather to become more flexible and flaccid. Water contents should be able to be squeeze out between finger and thumb to ensure proper soaking. At this stage the stain becomes fugitive again and it is towel extracted.

b) Degreasing can follow after much of the water content and soiling is extracted, in conjunction to remove the greasy component of the stain with Degreaser-2.2 (pH 2.2). This low pH besides degreasing controls dye bleeding and reduces fatliquor leaching out. It is used in conjunction to neutralize the high pH of 9.9; recharging the “amphoteric” leather protein fiber cationic (+ve). As all other leather constituents like fatliquor and dyestuff are anionic (-ve) “unlike poles attracts like magnets” to maintain the chemistry integrity of the leather.

c) Grease is removed noticeable of an emulsified creamy appearance; this creamy release is further rinse with an acidic Rinse-3.0 (pH 3.0) until the release shows clarity again.

d) Obviously the stain area cannot be contain as any solution applied to the stain area moves sideward’s; therefore the entire panel gets all soaked up.

e) To further move the foreign solid within the leather structure, Hydrator-3.3 is used to re-soak starting from the stain and feather out. Advance techniques use layers of thin absorbent tissue paper as an extension of the leather, free of air space. This technique allows the residual soiling to be caught instead of remaining on the leather surface as the moisture contends floats the soiling particulates through the tissue paper. The tissue paper is peel off the surface when crispy dry and any remnants soiling on the leather surface is erased using leather Eraser-4.

f) Inspection – Surface will appears cleaner and lighter with loss of luster if any of the stain deteriorated weaker topcoat is removed. This is restored after fatliquor replenishing.

g) Fatliquor replenishing follows with an appearance application and let natural dry. When almost dry Hydrator-3.3 is mist spray to check any residual surface deposit has to be wipe away.

h) Dry preparation is the final step where aniline gloss topcoat is applied to restore the luster.


Picture #1 – Degreasing follows the above procedure skipping the d’Protein-9.9 process.


Products you may need are found in this Kit A6.dr; dyes may not be needed in this case, otherwise the likely combination may comes from Yellow, Orange and a shade of either Red-Brown or Dark-Brown to match. d'Protein-9.9 is an add-on to this kit.


http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Doctor%20products/KitA6dr.jpg
Leather DoctorŽ Aniline Leather – Color Refinisher & Degreaser – Kit A6.dr


Use this leather problem solving guide for reference:
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Aniline13-LPG.jpg
Leather-Safe Aniline Leather Problem Solving Guide-A9


Roger Koh
[email protected]

Peter Callis
07-18-2012, 11:02 PM
Hi Roger,

many thanks for your comprehensive reply and extensive advice. Please advise how I can order the A6 kit, and what the total cost would be including postage to the UK. The sofa is medium brown in colour.

Thanks again,
Pete

Roger Koh
08-14-2012, 11:23 AM
Techniques:

1] Ensure that the product penetrates deeper than the stain; that is to say have to be through the thickness of the leather in order to penetrate, lubricate and suspend the stain.

2] Gently agitate with the horsehair Brush-1 especially the edge of the stain to make it moves.

3] Tower extraction is best used in this manner – use the paper rag to have a direct contact with the leather, lay additional towel on top and use a smooth object like a spoon to scud to extract – in this way there is not real physical harsh contact with the leather with the spoon – reduce finish damages.

These techniques apply through the working process with the follows sequences:

1] d’Protein-10 (pH 10) – try to zero onto the stains – especially the edges where the concentration of the stains are; as all these high pH has to be thoroughly neutralized with Degreaser-2.2 (pH 2.2). The neutral of leather averages pH 4, is also known as the isoelectric-point of the leather.

2] Degreaser-2.2

3] Rinse-3.0

4] Hydrator-3.3

At the end of the working, place another wet out paper rag with Hydrator-3.3 and let it sit with cling wrapped. This is done to ensure that the suspended stain within the leather structure has a chance to “swim-out” or wick-out; without sufficient hydrator in the leather structure the moving stains may still be stuck within the forest of fibers structure. It is to check if the stain marks disappear while the leather structure is still damp wet; otherwise let it continue to dwell for the stains to wick up. When stains do appear on the paper rag replace with a clean one. When the stains disappear, just remove the cling wrapper while leaving the paper intact without air bubbles.
This drying process with the paper as an extension of the leather surface allows the soiling particulates to be caught by the paper instead of staying on the leather surface. When crispy dry the paper can be peel off and the surface work over with the leather Eraser-4.

We should be having some pictures of all these process and waiting for the next move.

The following move would be:

5] Fatliquor Replenishing

6] Dry preparation

7] Topcoat Refinishing

8] Protection-B+

Any questions?

Roger Koh
[email protected]

Peter Callis
09-26-2012, 07:02 AM
Hi Roger, Sorry for the long delay, but I am only now ready to start this restoration process on the customers sofa. I have been trying to get my head around all the products in the kit and also the instructions above, but I am a little confused.

I have some queries;
1. Do I apply the d’Protein-10 over the complete panel, or just the stained area?
2. What dwell time would you recommend?
3. Should I see the stain 'disappear' whilst using d’Protein-10 oris this just the start of the process?
4. At what point should I stop using d’Protein-10 and start neutralizing with the Degreaser-2.2?
5. At what point should I use Hydrator-3.3?
6. What timescale roughly would the above process take?
7. You previously advised that this process will take several sessions - what are the 'break' points? How long should the whole process take?

Apologies for so many questions, but I want to make sure I get this right and dont make any mistakes.
Are there any videos available to guide me or maybe youtube?

many thanks for all your help.
Pete

Roger Koh
09-26-2012, 09:13 AM
I have some queries;


1. Do I apply the d’Protein-10 over the complete panel, or just the stained area?

Apply only to the stain area and concentrating on the edges (caution needed to avoid or reduce damages to the existing topcoat by light agitation with horsehair Brush-1 in conjunction with indirect spatula rubbing the stain through a terry towel – thus avoiding direct rubbing the stain with the terry towel).
Instruction:
1] Protein Stain Removal:
1.1] Spray directly onto the stain or transfer the d’Protein-10 to the foam brush and apply precisely to the stain area saturating more onto the darker edges.
1.2] Use horsehair Brush-1 to agitate lightly the stain area to loosen the stain.
1.3] Place a terry towel over the stain and used a spatula or a spoon to work through the towel to extract the stain.
1.4] This process of application and indirect extraction is repeated until the towel show clean.
1.5] Use Acidifier-2.0 or Rinse-3.0 to neutralize the d’Protein-10 and rinse off the foaming residue if any – use indirect rubbing extraction as mentioned above.
1.6] Remove the excess moisture by scudding a smooth spatula or spoon over a terry towel until towel shows dry.
1.7] The protein component of the stain removing process ends here, and proceed to the next step of degreasing.


2] Degreasing:
2.1] Shake up the Degreaser-2-2 until it gels (by shake, stop, and shake again). Transfer the Degreaser-2.2 to the horsehair Brush-1 or direct application with simultaneous agitation with the Brush-1. You may see immediate emulsification of the stain in the present of oil and grease, extract the suspended stain in similar fashion as mention above.
2.2] Repeat application until the agitation turns clear.
2.3] Apply Rinse-3.0 by direct spray, brush agitation and towel extract until free of foaming residue from the degreaser; and until the towel shows clean.
2.4] Further extract with indirect scudding the wet areas over a towel until the towel shows dry.


2. What dwell time would you recommend?

Since you are doing it on location, the above have not much of a dwell time involved; it is almost a continuous process one after another with the dual objective of removing the stain and at the same time and reducing topcoat damages with indirect scudding over a towel, (avoid direct rubbing with a towel).


3. Should I see the stain 'disappear' whilst using d’Protein-10 oris this just the start of the process?

You will see the progressive reduction of the stain – the two products d’Protein-10 and Degreaser-2.2 works by penetrating, lubricating and suspending the stain. As the stain are suspended in each continuous process it is extracted – imagine the stain particulates are lining in a queue to be extracted, the longer the queue the longer the time takes to clear them and without saturating the stain with either of the mentioned solution the stain while suspended will still be stuck below the leather surface.


4. At what point should I stop using d’Protein-10 and start neutralizing with the Degreaser-2.2?

Until the towel shows clean; however, if there is no solution apply on the stain the towel will show clean as well. In order for the stain to come out, solution has to go in to bring them out and the solution has to be sufficient to bring them all out, otherwise some may still be stuck down there as visible stain.


5. At what point should I use Hydrator-3.3?

Before using Hydrator-3.3, it is recommended to have the entire panel clean with Cleaner-3.3 follows with Rinse-3.0 and make sure that there are no visible marks or stains before applying the Hydrator-3.3 to the entire panel.
Hydrator-3.3 is the last step of the stain removing process. It is after the Degreasing 2.4]. Hydrating step is to wet out the entire panel of the leather without leaving a visible edge. This process will help in redistributing both the leather constituents back to the stain areas and the residual stain to floats out of the leather.


6. What timescale roughly would the above process take?

This is where the dwelling time takes place and best to have it for a day or 24 hours at least for the internal water movement. This is done with control evaporation using cling wrapper. You will see through the cling wrapper for an even appearance and have to achieve it while during this stage, otherwise the stain appearing areas can be towel extract with indirect scudding over a towel again. Re spray, the hydrator cover it up with cling wrapper and let the redistribution of the solution stabilize.

This may takes several hours to a day.

When no visible marks are to be seen, remove the cling wrapper, lay facial tissue paper as an extension of the leather surface, and wet it with Hydrator-3.3 avoiding air spaces. This process is will allows the wicking process to take place. As the moisture wicks up, it will bring out the soiling particulates as well through and be caught by the tissue paper, rather than still remaining on the leather surface. When perfectly dry remove the tissue paper and blow dry it crispy dry and work with Eraser-4 over the stain and feather out the entire panel.
Note: to hold the tissue paper in place during drying, place a big towel over it.


This is where the final stain removing process ended.

The next process is the fatliquor replenishing – spray and even out with the help of the foam brush for an even appearance.

When dry, erase with Eraser-4.

Topcoat is another option if the stain areas dulls up.


7. You previously advised that this process will take several sessions - what are the 'break' points? How long should the whole process take?

Break Points:
Here are the possible break points from what describe above:
1] Break off at the Hydrator-3.3 dwell time for a day – this allows redistribution of the internal water movement.

2] The second phase of hydrating by allowing the soiling particulates to wick through the tissue paper.

3] Third is allowing the Fatliquor-5.0 to dry naturally.

Peter Callis
09-29-2012, 06:23 AM
Hi Roger,
Many thanks again for your detailed and very helpful explanation. I intend to attempt this restoration next week and will let you know how I get on. Pete:)

Peter Callis
10-02-2012, 09:06 AM
Hi Roger, Attempted the restoration today, but don't think it exactly went to plan.

1. After applying d’Protein-10m, there didn't appear to be any stain loosened that could be absorbed with a towel. Not sure if I applied too little or too much (see photos), I thought I did saturate the area well, but there was only a light 'bloom' appearing on the surface - not enough that could be absorbed - any idea what I did wrong?
2. I was left with the stain area saturated with d’Protein-10. I then rinsed with rinse-3.0 as advised. I then cleaned the complete panel and rinsed again.
3. Not wanting to be left with an obvious area where the stain is/was, I applied hydrator-3.3 to the whole panel and covered with clingfilm.
4. I will go back tomorrow and see what the stain area looks like.

Any advice would be gratefully received. Thx Pete

909910911

Roger Koh
10-02-2012, 10:06 AM
See that the stain is moving . . .

Need more wetting out to flush out the stain.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/WP_000036copy.jpg

Peter Callis
10-03-2012, 08:24 AM
Hi Roger, back to the job today and did what you advised - wetted the whole panel and have now left hydrator with clingfilm/tissue to wick out the stain (hopefully). Will go back tomorrow and check results.
Many thanks again for all your ongoing help and advice. Pete:p

Roger Koh
10-03-2012, 09:29 AM
You can show us some pictures, if you are doing it correctly. . .

Peter Callis
10-04-2012, 07:57 AM
Went back today and unfortunately results not brilliant.

First photo shows area covered by tissue and cling film.
Second photo shows some stain transfer to tissue from the worst affected area (difficult to see on photo, but it is there)
Third photo shows overall result to date - some of the stains appear to have 'moved' a little but are still present
Fourth photo shows some colour loss from the worst affected area - maybe I was too aggressice with the horse hair brush?

So my question is now - what am I doing wrong and what should I do next?

Should I re-apply the d-Protein and Rinse solutions? - if so how wet am I looking to get the affected areas? should I be getting stain transfer onto the towel? (this has not heppened to date)
I assume that I then need to apply the Hydrator - again how wet should I get the panel, and then should I redo the tissue/clingfilm routine - should I only use single ply tissue?

Thanks again, Pete
912913914915

Roger Koh
10-04-2012, 10:46 AM
What you are doing is all correct, but not thorough or detail enough – need more practice and all your future aniline jobs will be very satisfying!

Only detail the outline of the stain with a cotton swab if these are still protein stain with d’Protein-10. Thereafter it has to be thoroughly neutralized with Acidifier-2.0 (completely soak where the d’Protein-10 goes).

When you see the outline disappearing (don’t be surprise when it re appear again “just like the iceberg that sank the Titanic”), as more are line up to resurface.

Hydrating is correct now, but to save you repeat time, be detail enough to get rid of all visible rings if possible prior to hydrating it to redistribute the residual stains to be wick through the tissue paper.

Note: Make sure that the tissue paper has as little of air space as possible, since the stain can’t jumps to the tissue if it is too far away.

Be persistence and your effort will pay off, maybe not for this job but certainly, for the future job, now you know the degree of technical difficulties, you will know how to charge for a profit.

Note:
Use facial tissue paper, the thinner, the better for surface contact for the first layer. The subsequent layer could be the thicker paper towel type.

Peter Callis
10-05-2012, 01:47 AM
Thanks for the advice Roger, will have another attempt next week. Cheers Pete

Peter Callis
10-09-2012, 10:44 PM
Completed job following your instructions. Result not perfect, but a huge improvement. Silly me, I forgot to take any 'after' photos. Thanks for all your help Roger, cheers Pete;)