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Questions!
07-09-2012, 09:06 AM
Hello Roger,
I need to purchase products to clean and restore the back cushions and footrests on an aniline sofa. The seat cushions are being reupholstered due to sever splitting of vinyl side panels. I have attached some pictures of this project and would like a price for the kit(s) necessary to complete this job.

Thank you,

Christopher C T.

#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Christopheranilinesofa4.jpg

#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Christopheranilinesofa9.jpg

#3
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Christopheranilinesofa2.jpg

#4
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Christopheranilinesofa11.jpg

Roger Koh
07-10-2012, 12:22 AM
Leather identification:
This leather is identified as the “aniline gloss leather type”.
It is not quite possible to retain the original color as seen in picture #4; due to its present condition as seen in picture #1.
Surely, all foreign contamination has to go, but there may be unknown stains that may be oxidized making removal tough.
Some stains like protein tends to coagulated with the leather protein fiber making removal tough without damaging the grain, thus has to be compromised by using a darker dye to camouflage it.
Refinishing is rather straight forward, but stain removal may require more experience with practice.
See Aniline Problem Solving Guide for effective stain removal prior to color refinishing.

Refinishing will require the following sequence of process:
1] Adhesor-73 > Aniline Dye-21 + Adhesor-73 + Thickener-48 (to coat instead of staining, due to existing topcoat) > Topcoat 79 Gloss.

Restorative Cleaning:
Picture #1 seems to be the most problematic piece with old unknown stains and grains seems to be cracking with roughness.
The outcome of restorative cleaning this piece may be the deciding factor to determine the color best to camouflage it, and if repairs have to be done to the cracks to strengthen the leather structure for practical usage the leather will take on a darkening effect too. Thus I think it would be safer to conclude that “medium to dark brown” is the best route of choice; if the leather is still to be retained as “ANILINE”. Otherwise “semi-aniline” is an option out to retain the lighter color, but the leather is downgraded in value.
Stain removal is recommended in the following sequence:
1] d’Protein-9.9 > Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 + Leather Eraser-4 + Horsehair detailing Brush-1
2] Erase wick-up foreign contamination when dry and inspect for remaining stains to be further remove by other specialty removal if any.
3] Penetrated stains include picture #2 & #3 are further move from within the leather structure to wick to the surface with Hydrator-3.3
4] Until the stains are satisfactorily removed that fatliquor replenishing is done with Fatliquor-5.0

Structural Repairs:
An option for strengthening the weakening leather structure from cracks is done with Impregnator-26.

Dry Preparation:
This is done with the help of Eraser-4/1500-2000grit Sandpaper.

Kits to test it out is using – Kit A7
More practical details on why and how will follow to walk you through.



http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Doctor%20products/KitA7.jpg
Leather Doctor® Aniline Leather – Restoration, Repair & Refinisher – Kit A7

Possible color combination from:
Yellow,
Red Brown,
&
Dark Brown


http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Aniline13-LPG.jpg
Leather-Safe Aniline Leather Problem Solving Guide-A9


Roger Koh
[email protected]

CTremblay
08-17-2012, 12:17 PM
Roger,
I started restorative cleaning on the cushion in original picture #1 following the steps provided 1] d’Protein-9.9 > Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 + Leather Eraser-4 + Horsehair detailing Brush-1. At this point I have seen some results around the edges but not much in the middle of cushion (see attached pictures). Should I continue following step one? If not what should my next step be? I also need to order more products. Look forward to hearing from you.
Chris825826

Roger Koh
08-17-2012, 02:14 PM
I assume we are looking at it dry.

Try going over with the sandpaper and see if it lightens up.

We may be looking a the residue that has wick up to the surface.

Have you use paper sheet as the extentsion of the surface to catch these wick up soiling particulates?

CTremblay
08-30-2012, 06:46 PM
Roger,
The sandpaper did lighten the outer areas up a bit, but the center is still very dark. I also used paper towels, but they did not collect much at all.
How much product should I be using on this stain? I feel like I am doing something wrong and wasting a lot. Also what am I looking for in each step? Will I see a color difference or a film coming up? Should I try to scrape the surface? I'm just trying to get use to your system.
Chris

Roger Koh
08-30-2012, 09:28 PM
You should still be at this stage:

3] Penetrated stains include picture #2 & #3 are further move from within the leather structure to wick to the surface with Hydrator-3.3

That is:
The entire thickness of the leather has to be soak up with Hydrator-3.3 sufficiently (when gently squeeze with thumb and finger a little water should oozed out, this should be the level of hydration to flood out whatever that cause the darkening effect). First cling wrapped it to relax the leather so that the trapped soiling can be suspended, let it dwell 24 to 48 hours, if during this period the hydrator dries up, replenish it again. When the leather is very relax (the sign is in the creases – it should be improved or diminished as the leather plumps up and not what we see on the above picture where the creases is very prominent).
Remove the cling wrapper and place facial tissue paper tight over it without air spaces and let it slow natural drying, this technique will trap the soiling particulates as it wicks out. Until it is crispy dry, peel off the tissue paper and use leather Eraser-4 to eraser the surface of the leather.

Let us see some pictures of what you are doing it correctly.

Roger Koh
[email protected]

CTremblay
09-05-2012, 05:18 PM
Roger,
Here are some pictures after 24 hours of using hydrator and cling wrap. I can see how the leather relaxed a lot in the left cushion. I am using facial tissue tonight.
845846

Roger Koh
09-05-2012, 09:54 PM
Are these pictures the continuity of your earlier post #3, from 2 weeks ago?

CTremblay
09-06-2012, 05:30 PM
No Roger they are actually of original picture #3 and the middle cushion next to it. Here is a picture of the cushion from post #3. Sorry I jumped other cushions. I have just completed another application of d'Protein and I did wrap it with cling wrap and towels to absorb. I did have some transfer of soils. I neutralized it with Acidifier 2.0 and sanded after it dried. I am afraid to sand much more because there are a couple of spots where the leather is thin. I plan to apply degreaser next. 849

Roger Koh
09-06-2012, 09:50 PM
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Degreasing.jpg

Red line:
These red lines indicate suspended soiling movement, and need to be transfer to a paper-rag to be lifted off the leather from within the thickness of the leather. We can only do so if we allow even hydration for the soiling to move out.

Blue line:
These blue lines indicate that the leather is very dry with uneven tension.

To do the two problems in one go, follow these recommendations.

1] Goopd to stop sanding, the more the leather is sand the coarser it will be, instead use leather Eraser-4 to remove soiling particulates.

2] From the red lines, looks like the suspended soiling is moving. What you have done with d’Protein-10 > Acidifier-2.0 is correct, but you do not have enough solution to flush out the already suspended soiling. Now soak it up with Rinse-3.0, wet it out, to bring the soiling off the leather by towel extraction with repeat rinsing until the towel shows clean. The final rinsing will be laying facial tissue paper over it free of airspace to act as an extension of the leather surface so that when drying the soiling particulates that wicks through it is trap by the tissue instead of still lying on the surface of the leather.

3] Try this out before we go into the Degreasing phase, you would have less soiling to deal with.

4] As you rinse also stretch the creases crosswise to relax it.

CTremblay
09-10-2012, 07:55 AM
Roger,
I soaked down with rinse over the weekend. Do you recommend moving on to degreasing at this point? What are your recommended step for degreasing process? I have been applying with a sponge brush and letting it sit. 878879

Roger Koh
09-10-2012, 10:15 AM
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/ProteinStain.jpg


880




The staining area at this moment looks more decent, however the white circle need further d’Protein-10 treatment to loosen up the stains.

Use a smooth spatula to loosen up with agitation avoiding skin damages and towel extract it, thereafter treat with Acidifier-2.0 to neutralize the pH of the d’Protein-10. This can be done with a teaspoon, towel extraction is done with agitation compressing the spoon over a towel to do the extraction – this manner will avoid direct rubbing the leather surface. This technique of indirect towel compressing extraction is also recommended after when the leather is plumps up, to effectively extract the suspended soiling off the leather. Otherwise, most of the suspended soiling will still remain stuck in the leather structure other that allowing the natural wicking process, which may take too many a repeat to off load such heavy soiling contamination still lodge in the inter-fibrillary network of the leather.

Remember that each process is a multi task effort to remove the contaminated soiling and preparing for the next process. It had to be done thoroughly within a process – we are still in the “Protein Stain Removal Process”.

Let to crispy dry to allow the suspended soiling to rise to the surface, the erase off gently.
This is that much you can do, so if there are still layers of soiling to be move up (without moisture to bring them out the soiling remains stuck where they are lodged) – this process of continuous soil removal is done throughout the “wet cleaning phase”. Hydrator-3.3 is the last step of the wet cleaning phase. Therefore, you still have two more steps to deal with the suspended soiling.

The next phase is the “Degreasing Process” some of the soiling may be “hydrophobic” types, that may require the degreasing power of the Degreaser-2.2.

As soon the highlighted spots in white are clear – proceed to degreasing.

Only concentrate on the darkening areas, where the soiling is.

Watch out for the emulsifying effect that turns the soiling milky to be “indirect towel extracted” with a help of a smooth spatula – as said to avoid direct physical contact with the fragile leather surface.

Rinse-3.0 plays an important role to remove the suspended soiling, until the squeeze out soiling appears clear.

Note:
Use Degreaser-2.2 onto dry leather surface.

Show some pictures of the soiling extraction, if you understood what I mentioned.

Roger Koh
[email protected]