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chet
02-04-2011, 05:42 AM
Roger, Client dropped off back cushion with dark oil stain surrounded by a ring. We would lioke to see how much oil and ring we can remove. Then see if we have to dye it. How should we proceed to remove the stain? It has a zipper so we can work from behind also.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/1-25-11093.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/1-25-11094.jpg

Roger Koh
02-04-2011, 11:15 AM
Let's have pictures of the reverse suede side, to see if the stain is through.

Roger Koh
[email protected]

chet
02-04-2011, 01:13 PM
It looks just like the front including the outer ring. I left the office already so I can't take a picture now.

Roger Koh
02-04-2011, 04:57 PM
Waiting for your pictures...

Roger Koh
02-11-2011, 05:19 PM
The main problem solving solution for penetrated grease stains like pictures shows is using Degreaser-2.2 follows by Rinse-3.0. as seen in this kit.

When stain is penetrated through, clean as you would do for suede, from the reverse side is more effective, without causing unnecessary physical distress to the smooth surface.


Roger Koh
[email protected]


http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Kit-GSs.jpg
Leather Doctor® Grease Stain Removal Kit-GS5


Contents:
Degreaser-2.2 - 60ml
Rinse-3.0 - 250ml
Hydrator-3.3 - 250ml
Fatliquor -5.0 - 250ml
Leather Scent-B - 120ml
Leather Scent-S - 120ml
Leather Eraser-4 - 1pc
Suede Eraser-5 - 1pc
Leather (horsehair) Brush-1 - 1pc
Nubuck (nylon) Brush-2 - 1pc
Suede (brass) Brush-3 - 1pc
3” Poly-Brush® - 1pc
Washable Rags - 5pcs


Email [email protected] for prices.

chet
02-12-2011, 09:56 AM
roger we began working on this last week. We ran into several problems. The top grain finish was begining to deteriorate when I was erasing the dark contamination after it had dried, so we stopped. We then proceeded to clean from the back side Degrease 2.2 + rinse several times, the back started to fall apart alsoso we stopped, I covered with Absorbe a Stain (powdered travertine stone), to let it dry thoroughly and hopefully not shrink up or split apart more. We let it dry thoroughly and it looked pretty good when we gently removed powder. I think if it didn't start falling apart we could have removed a lot more of the stain. We then patched it from behind, I used linen cloth (the only thing we had large enough to reinforce the entire area. Then filled the bad areas on the front with stucco and used impregnator to try and strengthen the entire area. I then dyed with semi color and top coated. The final result good.

Is there a way in the future to strengthen an oily greasy spot prior to cleaning, It seems the oil/ grease are hiding the damage and actually holding the leather structure together until we attempt to clean it exposing the damage to the leather structure. I've had this happen several times and it looks like we don't know what we're doing when the leather starts falling apart.

Back side after we cleaned it and uncovered absorbe a stain.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/2-11-11036.jpg

Surface after we were trying to erase contamination
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/2-11-11017.jpg

Linen patch on back
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/2-11-11037.jpg

After filling and using impregnator
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/2-11-11038.jpg

Final result
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/2-11-11040.jpg

Roger Koh
02-12-2011, 03:59 PM
The top grain finish was begining to deteriorate when I was erasing the dark contamination after it had dried, so we stopped.

This is the working of the sweat shifting alkaline that denatured the leather.


then proceeded to clean from the back side Degrease 2.2 + rinse several times, the back started to fall apart also

This is the result of prolong alkaline hydrolysis of the stain; same as above.


Is there is missing process of leather rejuvenating to replenished the fatliquor (Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0); leached out by the alkaline contamination; before proceeding to the repair?


We then patched it from behind, I used linen cloth (the only thing we had large enough to reinforce the entire area.

What was used for bonding the linen and the suede side (recommended to used Bond-3D with a suede to suede bond instead for a lasting bond, as this owner will continue to use the leather habitually; that may lead to repeated problem; causing premature delaminating between the cellulose linen and the protein fiber)?


Then filled the bad areas on the front with stucco and used impregnator to try and strengthen the entire area. I then dyed with semi color and top coated. The final result good.

Hope the look is good to stand out the stress of usage; only time will tell; I would prefer to repair this area with Bond-3D filling up with suede fibers for added strength in flexibility without the fear for premature cracking.


Is there a way in the future to strengthen an oily greasy spot prior to cleaning,

By acidifying, hydrating and fatliquoring; this three in one process neutralized, cationize the protein fiber more positive (+) to restore and strengthen the hydrogen-bond between the leather protein fibers with the leather constituents especially fatliquor (lifeblood of leather). The other advance technique is by “re-tanning” it first prior to fatliquoring. This chemistry of re-strengthening the leather is more homogenous than using mediocre scaffoldings of the leather with patches.


It seems the oil/ grease are hiding the damage and actually holding the leather structure together until we attempt to clean it exposing the damage to the leather structure. I've had this happen several times and it looks like we don't know what we're doing when the leather starts falling apart.

For future encounter…remove the excess oil, grease and sweat build up gently with Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0…Rejuvenate the leather structure with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 overnight…thereafter continue with deeper degreasing of the contamination…then follows with sufficient Fatliquor-5.0 again.


Tips:

For absorbent aniline leathers use Impregnator-26 with judgment; as the strengthen area may feel different from the surrounding areas.

Using absorb-a-stain, depends on its micron size may clog up the fine leather pores unnecessary and may cause poor adhesion, as coating products requires these sites for good anchorage.


Roger Koh
[email protected]

chet
02-13-2011, 06:04 AM
How do you Re-Tan the leather?

Roger Koh
02-13-2011, 06:34 PM
Just paint it on, preferably on the suede side for easier penetration into the thickness of the leather.