First Identify the leather type; can you show us the reverse suede side; if it has been dyed through; than it is an “Semi-Aniline” leather types; and the refinishing should retain the same by using – Pigment Micro-54 with matched Topcoat Micro-72S (satin).
The close-up pictures look mono-tone; otherwise a secondary color may be necessary to re-create the two-tone effect with Antique-27.
Leather structure looks dry with creases and wrinkles due to shrinkage (cause by diminishing fatliquor through evaporation as VOC) and uneven stretch to it: requires Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0.
Picture 5 & 7 shows grains that are over-stretch that becomes loose might requires Impregnator-26 to strengthen and tighten it up.
Cushion body contact areas requires a good bonding after wet and dry prep with the help of Adhesor-73 prior to color coat (this is to ensure no delaminating between the new and the old residue.
The recommended sequence of process is as follows:
Step 1: Wet Prep
Most of the old deteriorated pigment should be removed to make way for Adhesor-73 to have direct anchorage to the leather porous surface to ensure no delaminating when the leather sample finish goes to a Scotch-Tape Test (use a 2” industrial 3M tape to do this thorough testing). Remember to do a complete sample test on the worst area before commencing on the rest of the cushions.
It is easier to remove the deteriorated finishes while the leather is damp with a combination of: Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 with leather Eraser-4 + Leather Razor-60 + Sanding 1000girt; Hydrator-3.3 + Fatliquor-5.0 can continue as the next stage to keep the leather structure smooth and strong while the deteriorated finishes is removed in these two wet stage process. It makes sense as the leather will be hydrated, fatliquored + stretching to even out the creases and wrinkles at the same time. And as usual leave the leather to have slow natural drying after fatliquoring.
Step 2: Dry Prep
The dried leather surface should be fine sand to smooth the remnant finishes out.
Step 3: Leather Structure Impregnation
Impregnator-26 is applied to the weak and over-stretch leather surface to build-up a smooth skin for even absorption for the Adhesor-73 and the Micro-Pigment for an even coating; otherwise without the impregnator-26 will cause the binder of the micro-pigment to sink into the fibers and leaving the pigment to stay on the surface; will make a weak foundation for the finish. This impregnation process is further to ensure that the weak areas will not micro-crack too soon and over-stretch the color coating causing it to crack also – these phenomena is what you see on the finishes of the cushion – not to have the problem repeat itself too soon is to have a good and strong Impregnator-26 foundation.
Step 4: Adhesion Coating
Adhesor-73 application especially to the surface contact areas is to ensure that no delaminating problem will occur and pass the 2” Scotch-Tape Test.
Step 5: Color Coating
For semi-aniline finish; Pigment Micro-54 is the recommended color coat; Thicknener-48 should be added to the color to control flow of the spray especially on vertical panels to reduce the possibility of drips.
Step 6: Top Coating
Topcoat Micro-72S (satin) would be the recommended sheen; otherwise gloss or matte can be added to adjust the right level of sheen.
Step 7: Non-Stick, Rub-Resistant Protection.
Leather Scent-B – give me feedback on what do you think of this product versus Leather Master Protector?
What do you think of my recommendation?
Roger Koh
[email protected]