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diy_mum
06-27-2010, 01:25 PM
Hello again - Back with a more difficult (but much less pressing) issue.

We got two great Ekornes Stressless chairs off ebay for a song, they had been damaged by cat scratches and the finish is flaking off. (I'm fairly sure that the leather is Paloma, WineRed colour, based on a sample I saw in a show room.) I am once again looking to preserve the structure and condition of the leather, but wasn't sure what to use to keep moisture in on a regular basis because there is clearly some sort of coating on the chair finish (is this called semi-aniline?)

Also, I am fairly comfortable with diy work, and would be wiling to devote a weekend and reasonable cost to make the chairs look better! (Again, I'm not fussed about like new, my kids would take care of that quickly anyway :)

Pics attached (sorry, but I don't have a photobucket account, and the email didn't like my mobile me url.) I have a bunch more if it is helpful, but they are pretty much the same thing over and over again: the front left and right corners and arms of both chairs were clawed by cats, but most of rest of both chairs is in good shape except for a few flakes and scratches here and there. The first picture is of the only significant size rip that goes into the underlayer of the skin, everything else is scratches or flakes in the outer (darker) layer -- if that makes sense.

Thanks!

Roger Koh
06-27-2010, 05:42 PM
Welcome to the forum.

This thread will help you to post pictures through Photobucket free: http://www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=148

The advantages of posting from photobucket are no limit to the number of pictures and its size.



#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/LeatherChair1.jpg

#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/LeatherChair2.jpg

#3
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/LeatherChair3.jpg

#4
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/LeatherChair4.jpg

#5
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/LeatherChair5.jpg

Roger Koh
06-30-2010, 12:54 PM
Semi-Aniline Leathers:

Semi-Aniline leathers are leathers that have been dye through first as aniline dyed leathers; but do not pass the grade as aniline leathers; may be due to several reasons and one of them is too much blemishes that need a micro-pigment to hide these imperfection.

Thus grades lower than aniline leathers.

The higher-end semi-aniline grade is semi-absorbent and the lower grade is non-absorbent.

The semi-absorbent grade would be an advantage as it allows easier access to leather “Structure Rejuvenating”.

The life-blood of leathers is the fatliquor (fat, oil and water); that keeps the leather soft and strong; known for its suppleness; not found in simulated or imitation leathers (PVC).

This is one main leather constituents that evaporates as VOC (volatile organic compound) through heat; and leached out during cleaning when alkaline or alcohol solution is used; that stiffen the leather when dry.

The other is the dyestuff, seen as the lighter colored scratches and cracks are the works of UV lights.


To restore this leather from “structure to finish” requires a sequence of work phases that includes…

Tools Required:
Razor-60
Sanding Disc on Pad
Leather Brush-1
Nubuck Brush-2
Terry Towel
Leather Spatula-6
Airbrush

Product required can be found in this thread: http://www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=360
Prep-7.7
Cleaner-3.8
Rinse-3.0
Hydrator-3.3
Fatliquor-5.0
Leather Patch-4S
Leather Bond-3D
Leather Bond-7A
Leather Stucco-90
Impregnator-26
Adhesor-73
Micro Pigment-54
Topcoat Micro-72
Leather Scent-B


Phase 1 - Wet Preparation Cleaning:
In this wet prep all deteriorated finishes has to go; besides stripping all foreign contamination.
It is easier to remove unwanted finishes when the leather structure is completely wet through; as the leather structure becomes stronger and the deteriorated finishes becomes weaker.
This is done in conjunction with Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 plus tools like Razor-60, Sanding disc on pad, leather Brush-1 and nubuck Brush-2

Phase 2 – Leather Structure Rejuvenating:
If the leather finish is non-absorbent; rejuvenating is limited to the areas that are absorbent; thus semi-serviceable to revive the leather structure to its desired suppleness.
Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 is deployed to do its task.
When done accordingly, the colors of all the scratch will be saturated with dyestuff from the leather structure close to the finish color.

Phase 3 – Rip Repair for Picture #1:
This is done with a combination with Leather Patch-4S (a 0.04mm thickness leather patch bonding suede to suede with the help of Leather Bond-3D).
Leather Stucco-90 helps to fill up gaps; and leather Bond-7A helps to smoothen surface Leather Bond-3D.

Phase 4 – Structure Repair:
For over-stretch and weak areas can be strengthened with Impregnator-26.

Phase 5 – Adhesion Coating:
Adhesion coating (Adhesor-73) is to ensure that the new color coating has a better anchorage over the old existing finish against peeling (to pass a scotch-tape test after top-coating).

Phase 6 – Color Coating:
My recommendation would to use a finer pigment color knows as Pigment Micro-54, use to produce Semi-Aniline leathers.
The color as seen from pictures is a compound color that may comes from a mix of Maroon + Black + White

Phase 7 – Top Coating:
The sheen looks like its Satin, however gloss and matte is available; and the matching product is Topcoat Micro-54

Phase 8 – Non-Stick, Rub-Resistance protection:
Leather Scent-B imparts a buttery feel with a classic leather scent is the appropriate tactile feel for semi-aniline leathers (draggy-feel, silky-feel and waxy-feel not recommended for this leather type).


I will help you step by step when you are ready to commence your project.


Roger Koh
Leather DoctorŽ