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View Full Version : Aniline: Water Damaged: Insurance Claim: How to Restore Water Damaged Leather effectively in an Insurance Claim?



Ken Larsen, CR, WLS
02-11-2008, 12:22 PM
Hi everyone...

I am a water damage specialist and I am looking for any suggestions on limitations or possibilities that water damaged / water stained leather can be effectively restored in an insurance claim.

I thank you all for your feedback and directions. (I am an IICRC instructor and these questions come up from time to time).

Ken Larsen


http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/leatherchairsm1-1.jpg

Roger Koh
02-11-2008, 03:37 PM
Welcome to the forum Ken.

All water damaged leather can be restored regardless of categories 1-clean water, 2-gray water or 3-black water.
Funny, few realized that all leather has to go through the “black water categories” in most wet tannery processing to bring forth a new life.
These were stinky “black water” pits that face the rising sun for a new hope that the contaminated skin would be resurrected as beautiful leathers in the traditional way.
All the soaking, unhairing and bating operations the hides are literally soaked in “black water”.
In the ages past animals excrements and fermented urine were used in these operation.
Bactericide, fungicide, heavy metals or toxic organic substances are all used in stinky hydrogenous wet tannery process.
Think about it, how beautifully and sensuously the end result turns out eventually that charm both man and woman through the ages.
So, do we toss a leather item because it has gone through category 3 black water contamination?
Yes, we should if we know nothing about leather cleaning and restoration technology.
Besides unsightly stains, mold infestation flourish that leads to health issue.

Now with Leather Doctor® System all lost can be saved.
That’s why our system is sought after by Edenvale Restoration Specialist, Belfor Restoration Services, Barclay Restoration, On-Side Restoration and the latest call from
Canstar Restoration for all leather insurance related work (Greater Vancouver).

Hope I answer your question all water damaged or stained leather can be effectively restored in an insurance claim.

Roger Koh

Pioneer
02-11-2008, 05:39 PM
Roger,

Just looking at the picture it would seem to be a lost cause, how would you restore this?

Roger Koh
02-12-2008, 02:14 AM
What we see as this picture seems to be a lost cause in terms of possible water stains as of aesthetic.

What is more important is the hygiene aspect in the controlling microorganisms as quickly as possible.

It depends on the nature of the water damage as classified into 3 main category based on IICRC S500.

If perchance this water damages blooms into mold infestation then procedural handling reference IICRC S520 comes handy.

While leather cleaning reference guide is based on IICRC S300, the other two standard references helps to understand the insurance claim industry better.

Coming to the question on the restoration process, this is what I’ll do in reference to the picture and assuming it is still wet delivered to our facilities:

Consider all water damage to leather as a Category 3 – Black Water as this protein fiber is susceptible to microbial growth once wet with contaminated water.

Step 1 Remove dust cloth to be replace with a new one after restoration.

Step 2 Spray a leather safe pH 3.6 leather bactericide and fungicide (mold3.6™) to all contaminated areas inside and outside and feather out the entire panel or section to control microorganism and avoiding water stain marks.

Step 3 Since this leather is more an aniline than a semi-aniline, a leather safe pH 4.0 heavy duty preconditioner (superCleaner4.0™) is spray and agitate with a horse hair brush. All preconditioners works by dwelling time to allow penetration, lubrication and suspension all foreign contaminants for 5 to 15 minutes.

Step 4 A leather safe pH 3.8 leather cleaner (cleaner3.8™) is sprayed, agitated and extract with clean white rag.

Step 5 A leather safe pH 3.0 leather acidifier rinse (rinse3.0™) is sprayed, agitate and extract until rag shows clean.

Step 6 A leather safe pH 3.6 leather surface wetting conditioner (surfactant3.6™) is sprayed to the entire affected panel to help disperse chemistry constituents concentration of both inherent and foreign by the osmotic effect.

Step 7 An anionic fatliquor (fatliquor5.0™) helps replenish original fatliquor is spray and foam spread for even absorption to the entire leather structure. This application will prevent the leather going stiff when it dries.

Step 8 When there is still visual difference between the prior stain areas and the dry areas at this wet stage, the leather structure is not wet enough surfactantt3.6™ wetting and plumping will help to set the wetness in equilibrium.

Step 9 Spray the entire piece with mold3.6™ more on those original wet areas.

Step 10 With leather structure plumping satisfaction place clean white paper towel with direct leather contact without air space or bubbles with the help of mist rinse3.0™ spray. Place 1 or 2 more sheets and secure it with white towel for the force of the wicking process to take it course. Leave the item for a very slow overnight drying without heat or blower for one or two days with a daily check on the progress.

Note: Have we forgotten about the suede side?
Use a suedeBrush3™ instead on the suede side and possible extraction with a wet vacuum follow by white rag.
How about the brass tack, will it tarnish?
If it does it will be easily taken care off with tarnish1.3™> basifier8.5™ after when it’s completely dry for sure.
Well, dust cloth has to be replaced too.

Step 11 The last step is the application of leather scent feel conditioner, leatherScent’W™ (waxy) for aniline or leatherScent’B™ (buttery) for semi-aniline.

This is a safe and effective leather water damage restoration approach where leather safety comes first, effectiveness follows with appropriate
matched leather safe pH 3-5 products within the system.

Do you believe that it can be restored?
Share your doubt with us please?

Roger Koh

Shorty Down Under
02-13-2008, 04:13 PM
I have no doubt that the leather can be restored to pre-loss condition.

However, in my area it is tropical, most times of the year it is also very humid.

Mo(u)ld is of a major concern, especially in the cushion material, decking, fabric covers, etc; and all those enclosed parts where access is not readily available.

I am of the (present) opinion that mo(u)ld is going to be a health concern where it cannot be completely eliminated.

Do you have an answer for this, as I am stumped at the moment.

Maybe I should have started a separate thread for this question.

Cheers,

Shorty.

Roger Koh
02-13-2008, 09:38 PM
One simple answer to your bacteria and mold headache is a periodic 8 monthly anti-microbial treatment.
After your initiate decontamination sell the product to your customer and suggest they DIY 8 monthly.

Bacteria find their optimal living conditions at neutral (pH 7) or slightly alkali above pH 7.
Majority of molds optima living conditions are at the acidic side of the pH scale approximately pH 5.

Check your anti-mold products pH value and post your findings.
The pH value of present product used may be one valid reason that frustrates you.

Environmental friendly bactericide & fungicide for leathers should be around the pH range of 3.6.
This 3.6 pH range is within the leather safe pH range of 3 – 5.

The pH of antimicrobial above 5 often causes darkening effect to sensitive unfinished leathers including nubuck and suede.
At pH 3.6 in comparisons should not darkens or cause marks to these sensitive leathers.

Of course there are other reasons that may be prevailing.
Humidity, lack of UV lights, stale air, contaminants as food source for mold and non-compatible conditioners becomes the food source.

If we do consciously eliminate the environment for the mold with an appropriate prescription we may be able to put them in dormant mode permanently.

Another problem is the after cleaning problems where the leathers include nubuck and suede pH value have shifted too high above pH 5.
All cleaning products for mold control should not have a pH value above 5.

So selecting lower pH value products is another consideration to improve situation as the external climate is almost beyond our control.

Does this pH value of products and reasons make sense to you?

Roger Koh

Vilmos
04-14-2008, 11:18 PM
Wow! lots of great info. You're great man thanks a lot! :D








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Harry Hides
04-26-2008, 08:23 PM
Hi Ken !!

You may be interested to know that US Navy has a department in Texas that specializes in restoring leather goods salvaged from Spanish galleons. Obviously these leather goods are seriously water damaged and yet they have developed techniques to restore. Pretty near any water damaged leather can be restored.
Roger has some good stuff.
You still in Texas ?

Cheers Tony

Roger Koh
05-26-2008, 09:14 PM
Here is an example of a water damaged Aldo® aniline leather shoe being saved!

Do you think there is a difference between restoring an aniline leather shoe and aniline leather upholstery?

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor® System

Picture #1 shows Water Damaged Aldo® Aniline Leather Shoe.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/2RightSide.jpg

Picture #2 shows restored to original condition.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/7RightSideClose-Up.jpg

Roger Koh
06-26-2008, 02:32 PM
These pictures show water damage by urine on wax pull-up aniline leather sofa that causes a ring stain.


http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/1.jpg


This shows the close-up ring stain.


http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/2.jpg


This is after cleaning and rinsing by the home owners.


http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/3clean38withrinse3.jpg


This is the result.


http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/4.jpg


If home owners with a leather safe (pH 3-5) can do it, its no excuse for professional to walk away!


Roger Koh

Leatherestore
07-21-2008, 04:52 AM
Just saw your pix. I would guess since the owners did it they can live with the ring. Our customers expect it to be completely gone so removing the wax, redye then restore the wax is the only method we have previously used. Any others?

Roger Koh
07-21-2008, 09:44 AM
It would be nice of you to show some of your works on pull-ups here - maybe starting on a new thread. Re: “How to Restore Pull-ups”.


Roger Koh

note:
The urine ring stains removal was done by home owners and the 4th picture shows the stain gone!
The ring marks on the 2nd picture shows a failed attempted that enlarged the stain rings by some unknown products.
The 3rd picture shows ‘wet’ after application of leather safe (pH 3-5) products.
It was sent to me for my opinion.
I told him that it looks fine to me.