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View Full Version : Aniline (Sauvage) - How to Clean, Rejuvenate and Refinish this Scratch and Worn Aniline Leather Armchair?



chris001
05-13-2010, 02:46 PM
Roger,
How do know what items to purchase to refinish a scratched and worn leather and where do I purchase them?

Roger Koh
05-13-2010, 04:11 PM
For leather “scratch” repair you may need these products:

Leather Bond-3D
Leather Bond-7A (optional)
Leather Stucco-90

For leather “worn” repair you may need this product

Leather Impregnator-26


After the worn repairs you may need an Adhesion Promoter prior to your color coating with

Adhesor-73

As for color repairs you may need either of these products:

Standard Pigment-64

Or

Micro Pigment-54

Or

Antique-26

To match your color type that also comes with matching topcoats.


And help will be more specific when you post a picture.


Email me and I will return with a price list.


Roger Koh
[email protected]

The comprehensive leather cleaning and restoration product range can be found in this link:
http://www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=360

Roger Koh
05-14-2010, 07:33 AM
Here is the picture!



http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/DSC_0355.jpg

Roger Koh
05-16-2010, 10:49 AM
This leather type is identified as Aniline leather.

And my recommendation for a double restoration that includes the leather “structure” and the “finish” is as follows:

Phase 1 – Prep Cleaning
Use Prep-4.4 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 with Leather Brush-1, Leather Eraser-4, 1000-1500 wet sandpaper, optional Razor-60 and towel.
This prep process is to remove all foreign contamination including the deteriorated top coat to an even “worn-look” appearance.

Phase 2 – Leather Structure Rejuvenating
Use Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 with a 3” Poly-Brush®.
The hydrating process will reactivate the dyestuff and bring back color to a degree to the surface.
It will also help to wick-up penetrated foreign soiling for a more even appearance.
When completely soak into the leather structure, it helps to relax and plumps up the leather structure thus reducing and eliminating those unnatural creases.
When the leather is relax the thickness increases and the surface dimension decreases to tighten up especially the cushion and over-stretch armrest with smartness.
The fatliquoring process is to lubricate the leather interlocking fibrils form sticking together when the leather dries, so that the fibrils will slide against each other smoothly without breaking.
Besides the tensile strength of leathers depends on this fatliquoring; thus the suppler the leather is, the stronger it is.
Fatliquoring enriches the color tone further and makes the leather structure fuller, thus leather becomes less absorbent to foreign staining.

Phase 3 – Repairs to Scratch and Abrasion
Use Impregnator-26
This scratch and worn areas are the missing “skin” as the damage surface feels like “nubuck” with naps.
Impregnator-26 rebuilds back the skin, either on its own that produce a neutral color or to be added to colors, to build up the color as well.
Impregnator-26 is a protein compact resin blend compound that is design to impregnate worn leathers grains and micro-cracks.
Its purpose is to seal, strengthen and leveling out uneven absorption for further coating process.
And fills and tightens with good leveling properties that is film forming for improve abrasion resistance.

Phase 4 – Base Dye Coating
Use Aniline Dye-63
This transparent coating dyestuff adheres to the existing finish more effectively than Aniline Dye-21 or any other standard dyes.
It easily coats tenaciously over the existing non-wear areas without the need to strip them off.
The technique of working with Aniline Dye-63 is quite similar with working with water colors as the color is build up by layers to achieve the desired result.

Phase 5 – Topcoat Protection
Use either Topcoat Aniline-53WM (Waxy Matte) or Topcoat Aniline-79G (Gloss).
These topcoats help to protect the dyes from dry and wet rubs.
It also determines the end result look either to be glossy or just plain matte and waxy.

Phase 6 – Rub Resistance Conditioning
Use either Leather Scent-B for a buttery feel that follows Topcoat Aniline-79Gloss.
Or use Leather Scent-W for a waxy-matte that follows Topcoat Aniline-53WM.


Email me for the prices and optional shipping of your choice.

When you have the products, tools and material ready we shall discuss the techniques further to help you in every step of your project.


Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
[email protected]

Roger Koh
05-16-2010, 12:47 PM
When done accordingly you will produce result like this!


#1 Before
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/076-1.jpg


#2 After
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/FadedBrownAniline20261.jpg

What do you think?

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®

chris001
05-18-2010, 12:42 PM
How do I know what size products and tools to purchase and how do I go about purchasing them? Do you give detailed instructions also on the procedures to refinish my chair?

Roger Koh
05-19-2010, 12:07 AM
The recommended products for Phase 1 are based on the soiling condition.

Apparently there seems to be clean of body grease – so Degreaser-2.2 is not required.

There are few dark marks – if these dark marks are protein based stain then d’Protein-11.0 may be required to remove them.

Refinishing with transparent dyestuff and or topcoat will not make these stains go away but enhance and look more apparent.

If the stain is apparent then the next alternative would be using a darker shade or higher saturation to match the stain.

Another option is to use "Antique-26" a translucent hybrid to hide the stains, that means the leather finishes moves down to a lower grade.

So phase 1 100% cleanliness without marks or stain is the beginning of refinishing - back to it's "ORIGINAL".

I suggest you take some close-up pictures for a thorough visual inspection.

The product size is based on the surface area, level of soiling and leather absorbency.

Thus an estimate for Prep-4.4 would be a 60ml, Cleaner-3.8 and Rinse minimum would be a 250ml.

I believe you have the price list emailed to you that include the brush and the eraser – you purchase direct from Leather Doctor®

I can help you to see and guide you step by step base on good quality pictures.

Phase 1 in most cases is the toughest; the rest is just a follow through.

So I suggest you just start with Phase 1 and we go from there!

What do you think?


Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®

chris001
05-19-2010, 04:30 AM
I will send some more detailed pictures and then go from there.