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chet
12-03-2008, 09:55 AM
Roger,

I need to know what would need to be done to restore this worn and damaged leather cushion.

I'm sure the rest of the bottom cushions look the same, the client dropped it off for us to look at.

I'm sure the leather is Aniline, it leaves a light scratch from finger nail.

The finish is very worn and deep coarse breaks.

The client thought it could be cleaned, but I'm sure it would need repairs to the areas with the coarse breaks and re coloring.

If was to be repaired, can it be redyed with aniline?
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/fox001.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/fox003.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/fox004.jpg

I need the steps and necessary products to restore this leather so I can give her an accurate quote.

Roger Koh
12-03-2008, 09:55 PM
Well it is good to re-dye back to aniline.
However aniline dyes are transparent, the damage areas ugliness will be magnified and the undamaged areas will be beautified.
There will be a contrast in appearance between the damaged and unused areas it is difficult to predict the result.
All depends on the outcome of the worst area.

I would suggest to give the transparent aniline a go, but back-up with opaque semi-aniline to even out the difference in appearance as the last resort.

These are the recommended procedures:

A: Specialty Spot Removal.
Step 1: All stains have to be identified and successfully removed (otherwise will still show through with transparent aniline dyes) - use specialty cleaners for specific stains.

B: Prep Cleaning.
Step 1: To remove all foreign contamination - use d’Oil4.4™ with leatherBrush1™ and anilieEraser4™.
Step 2: To remove sticky residues - use clean3.8™.
Step 3: To acidify rinse until towel shows clean with a squeaky clean - use rinse3.0™.
Step 4: To rectify tackiness or sliminess after a wet finger rub test - use acidifier2.0™.

C: Leather Structure Restoration (reduce coarse breaks, softening and strengthening leathers).
Step 5: To hydrate leather structure - use relaxer3.3™.
Step 6: To replenish diminished original fatliquor - use fatliquor5.0™.

D: Surface Grain Repair.
Step 7: To repair, tighten, smoothen and strengthen surface grain - use impregnator26™ for structure, leatherBond3D™ for surface both with a percentage of anilineDye21™.

E: Aniline Refinishing System.
Step 8: To re-dye by spraying - use anilineDye21™ (When blemishes, stains or repairs that show through skip step 9).
Step 9: To protect the transparent aniline dye - use anilineTop54M™ (matte).

G: Semi-Aniline Refinishing System.
Step 10: To improve coverage of blemishes, stains or repairs that show through - use semiColor74™ with thickener48™.
Step 11: To protect the semi-aniline color coat - use semiTop54M™.

I: Surface Conditioning.
Step 11: To impart a non-stick buttery feel surface with the classical leather scent - use leatherScent’B™.

What are you experience with aniline dyes so far?

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor® System

chet
12-05-2008, 06:15 AM
Roger, I have not been able to repair the condition i see here with aniline dye, it would have taken a pigmented top coat to repair.

I'm confused about aniline dye, if it is a transparrent dye that is throughout the leather then how does it crack and flake. This leather looks like protected, other than it shows scratches. What is emi aniline? Is it aniline with a pigmented top coat?

Roger Koh
12-05-2008, 12:45 PM
Roger, I have not been able to repair the condition i see here with aniline dye, it would have taken a pigmented top coat to repair.

D: Surface Grain Repair.
Step 7: To repair, tighten, smoothen and strengthen surface grain - use impregnator26™ for structure, leatherBond3D™ for surface both with a percentage of anilineDye21™.

Have you tried the above combinations?

I'm confused about aniline dye,
Aniline Dye is referred to as a transparent Dye in general.
In specific they comes as anilineDye21™ for aniline, nubuckDye23™ for nubuck and bicastDye27™ for bicast leathers.
The difference is their binder composition that matches the leather type.

if it is a transparrent dye that is throughout the leather then how does it crack and flake.
Dyes or colors have nothing to do with cracks or flakes.
Flakes are more to do with surface grain abrasion.
To reduce this damages a matching topcoat is desirable during refinishing.
To reduce flakes, abrasion is control by regular surface conditioning with either leatherScent’W™ (waxy) or leatherScent’B™ (buttery).
To maintain leather surface grain strength, periodic fatliquoring is desirable.

Cracks are directly related to the leather structure.
It is due to the drying up of the leather structure fatliquor through evaporation or through breaking of hydrogen bonding.
Fatliquor evaporate through ageing, direct sunlight, heater or radiator.
Fatliquor break bonds with the leather fibrils and leach out through the used of solvents and alkaline cleaners.
Dried leather are usually hydrated with relaxer3.3™ prior to fatliquor5.0™.

Note:
Aniline leathers is also a “protected leather” their top coats are either one of these: anilineTop53WM™ (waxy matte), anilineTop54M™ (matte) or anilineTop54HG™ (high gloss).

This leather looks like protected, other than it shows scratches.
Using the word “protected” is confusing, as any leathers that has a top coat or fix is somewhat “protected”.
Technically nubuck is also “protected” with nubuckFix99™.

What is emi aniline? Is it aniline with a pigmented top coat?
Semi-Aniline are leathers that fail the grading to be classified as aniline (too many imperfection or blemishes).
So instead of throwing them away as aniline, they are refinished with micro-pigment to cover up the blotchiness, etc.
These micro-pigment are the like of semiColor74™ with matching semiTop57(G)™ or (M).
They look more natural, are more expensive than pigmented leathers and are certainly “semi-absorbent”.
Pigmented leathers refer to “non-absorbent” leathers that are opaque.
Again pigmented leathers come in various grades and varieties.

So, isn't this confusion makes leather more interesting?

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor® System

chet
12-06-2008, 05:50 AM
Here are the pictures of the entire sofa, it is 9 years old. never really been cleaned or conditioned. I'm mailing you a nice size swatch, the client gave me a deposit, so i will need to order products when you receive the sample. I will need to know waht I need and how much of each product you think i'll need. the bottom cushions are removable, and the back cushions are held on by a flap, so they can flip back but not come off. After you receive the swatch let me know if it is semi aniline or pigmented? I have some of your products, but will definately need more. The client had a concern if i could make it look like new' can Iwith your system?

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/IMG_0804.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/IMG_0803.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/IMG_0802.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/IMG_0801.jpg

Roger Koh
12-06-2008, 07:41 PM
The client had a concern if i could make it look like new' can Iwith your system?

If this is what your client wish to restore it like new - the only possiblity is to be in Semi-Aniline Finish because of surface damages that will result in uneven dye absorbency therefore will not look like new.

Semi-Aniline finish is using opaque micro-pigment color instead of transparent dye and the result is between aniline and pigment - Semi-Absorbent = Semi-Breathability.

Semi-Aniline ensures more even color consistency and protection than aniline against spills and stains also a better choice than pigmented (non-absorbent).

So the aniline system is abundant for this project.

Replace by the Semi-Aniline System.

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor® System

Roger Koh
12-12-2008, 02:14 PM
These are the estimate quantities (you may run short or you may have plenty of left over, so don’t be mad) of products you may need.

I am happier to have left over’s without excess, but for leathers with different absorbent rate one can never tell for sure.

There is still a difference in surface area when cushion are all removal, the back cushion would have double the surface area (so we can’t be screaming if the estimate is not accurate).

This working on a shoestring budget for products is scary to me, especially when one is short of colors.

Colors comes from a big lot is definitely OK, but if it is custom colors on a small lot, each lot may varies even though the formula mix is the same especially on lighter colors.

Always check against the coloring progress against the color stock at hand.

If you think there would be a short of colors, save what you have.

Mix or order the next lot and continue with the new lot first, and then continue with the old lot to re-color the entire set.

This is scary as I have many a times run short of color products.

To safe time it is better you custom color at your end otherwise you better order with more than enough.

As each color custom service do comes with a service cost per order.


A: Specialty Spot Removal.
Step 1: All stains have to be identified and successfully removed (otherwise, stain wicking through or adhesion might be a problem) - use specialty cleaners for specific stains (see specialty cleaning products from list).

B: Prep Cleaning.
Step 1: To remove all foreign contamination - use d’Ink7.7™ with leatherBrush1™ and anilieEraser4™.
Estimate that two 250ml bottle d’Ink7.7™ may suffice, wise to have an extra bottle (take note -this leather is absorbent).

Step 2: To remove sticky residues - use clean3.8™.
Estimate 4 quarts

Step 3: To acidify rinse until towel shows clean with a squeaky clean - use rinse3.0™.
Estimate 8 quarts (as a double-up for the relaxer3.3™).

Step 4: To rectify tackiness or sliminess after a wet finger rub test - use acidifier2.0™.
Estimate Standby 250ml (When surface tackiness is ignore, a recall for peeling is almost certain - I have been there!).

C: Leather Structure Restoration (reduce coarse breaks, softening and strengthening leathers).
Step 5: To hydrate leather structure - use relaxer3.3™.
Estimate 2 quarts

Step 6: To replenish diminished original fatliquor - use fatliquor5.0™.
Estimate 2 - 3 quarts (if new also means the softening and strengthening the leather making it more supple and flexible and reducing those coarse breaks (creases) too.

D: Surface Grain Repair.
Step 7: To repair, tighten, smoothen and strengthen surface grain - use impregnator26™.
Estimate 1 - 4 250ml bottles (hard to tell from pictures how absorbent or weak the leather surface is - level out the absorbency is an important consideration for subsequent other coatings).

E: Adhesion Promotion
Estimate from a pint (500ml) to a quart (906ml) (leather is absorbent, unlike non-absorbent leathers thus need more without a doubt).

G: Semi-Aniline Refinishing System.
Step 10: To improve coverage of blemishes, stains or repairs that show through - use semiColor74™ with thickener48™.
Estimate 3 quarts for color + 150 ml for thickener.

Step 11: To protect the semi-aniline color coat - use semiTop54M™.
Estimate minimum 1 quart (depends on the number of coatings - I would give an extra two coats on the heavy used areas - it also depends how wet each coat is, certainly no overloading). The leather wears depends heavily on this protective coating. We are assuming we are providing a premium service, so we do accordingly as we have educated our customer.

I: Surface Conditioning.
Step 11: To impart a non-stick buttery feel surface with the classical leather scent - use leatherScent’B™.
Estimate minimum 250ml.

Between the white set you have just completed, you will be surprise that all materials suddenly goes way up high for this set.

The difference is non-absorbency leather versus absorbent leather takes more than three times the average products.

The penetrator26™ helps you cut down on other subsequent products on the surface damaged areas, otherwise these areas will be weak and look unnatural.

Check your email for prices.

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor® System

chet
12-14-2008, 11:54 AM
Roger if my calculations are correct i will have about $1500.00 in supplies, what do you normally charge for this type of repair?
It takes a lot of dInk7.7 I assume there is not a substitute for this product?

I will figure out what I need when I compare it to what i have in stock.

I will need step by step specific instructions, and amount of time required between steps for drying.

Roger Koh
12-14-2008, 01:06 PM
Roger if my calculations are correct i will have about $1500.00 in supplies, what do you normally charge for this type of repair?

In proportion with what you were happy doing with the white pigmented set (minimum x3).


It takes a lot of dInk7.7 I assume there is not a substitute for this product?

Solvent product is recommended only unless you strip complete clean to the leather crust.

Otherwise you have adhesion problem - putting new finished over deteriorated old finish weakens by the solvent.

Leather afterwards becomes more stiff as fatliquors are leach out - therefore more hydration and fatliquors to soften it again, otherwise creases appears that leads to micro cracks and ends up in macro cracks.


I will figure out what I need when I compare it to what i have in stock.

I recommend that you keep stock on proven standard products (unnecessary shipping rush with tension).


I will need step by step specific instructions, and amount of time required between steps for drying.

You can do that with pictures, what you need accomplished - Remember high resolution pictures begets high quality specific answers.

Roger Koh
[email protected]

chet
12-15-2008, 04:44 AM
Roger, Don't you have pictures showing the exact steps and detailed instructions?

chet
12-15-2008, 05:29 AM
A: Specialty Spot Removal.
Step 1: All stains have to be identified and successfully removed (otherwise, stain wicking through or adhesion might be a problem) - use specialty cleaners for specific stains (see specialty cleaning products from list).

B: Prep Cleaning.
Step 1: To remove all foreign contamination - use d’Ink7.7™ with leatherBrush1™ and anilieEraser4™.
Estimate that two 250ml bottle d’Ink7.7™ may suffice, wise to have an extra bottle (take note -this leather is absorbent).
Best way to apply dINK, air brush- then agitate with brush, how will I use eraser- after it dwells for 30 minutes?

Step 2: To remove sticky residues - use clean3.8™.
Estimate 4 quarts

Step 3: To acidify rinse until towel shows clean with a squeaky clean - use rinse3.0™.
Estimate 8 quarts (as a double-up for the relaxer3.3™).

Step 4: To rectify tackiness or sliminess after a wet finger rub test - use acidifier2.0™.
Estimate Standby 250ml (When surface tackiness is ignore, a recall for peeling is almost certain - I have been there!).
describe wet finger rub test. And how exactly do you want acidifier used?

C: Leather Structure Restoration (reduce coarse breaks, softening and strengthening leathers).
Step 5: To hydrate leather structure - use relaxer3.3™.
Estimate 2 quarts

Step 6: To replenish diminished original fatliquor - use fatliquor5.0™.
Estimate 2 - 3 quarts (if new also means the softening and strengthening the leather making it more supple and flexible and reducing those coarse breaks (creases) too.

D: Surface Grain Repair.
Step 7: To repair, tighten, smoothen and strengthen surface grain - use impregnator26™.
Estimate 1 - 4 250ml bottles (hard to tell from pictures how absorbent or weak the leather surface is - level out the absorbency is an important consideration for subsequent other coatings).
Will i be using any semi color mixeded with impregnator?

E: Adhesion Promotion
Estimate from a pint (500ml) to a quart (906ml) (leather is absorbent, unlike non-absorbent leathers thus need more without a doubt).
I assume this is Adhesion73?

G: Semi-Aniline Refinishing System.
Step 10: To improve coverage of blemishes, stains or repairs that show through - use semiColor74™ with thickener48™.
Estimate 3 quarts for color + 150 ml for thickener.

Step 11: To protect the semi-aniline color coat - use semiTop54M™.
Estimate minimum 1 quart (depends on the number of coatings - I would give an extra two coats on the heavy used areas - it also depends how wet each coat is, certainly no overloading). The leather wears depends heavily on this protective coating. We are assuming we are providing a premium service, so we do accordingly as we have educated our customer.

I: Surface Conditioning.
Step 11: To impart a non-stick buttery feel surface with the classical leather scent - use leatherScent’B™.
Estimate minimum 250ml.

Between the white set you have just completed, you will be surprise that all materials suddenly goes way up high for this set.

The difference is non-absorbency leather versus absorbent leather takes more than three times the average products.

The penetrator26™ helps you cut down on other subsequent products on the surface damaged areas, otherwise these areas will be weak and look unnatural.

Roger Koh
12-16-2008, 02:20 AM
A: Specialty Spot Removal.
Step 1: All stains have to be identified and successfully removed (otherwise, stain wicking through or adhesion might be a problem) - use specialty cleaners for specific stains (see specialty cleaning products from list).
B: Prep Cleaning.
Step 1: To remove all foreign contamination - use d’Ink7.7™ with leatherBrush1™ and anilieEraser4™.
Estimate that two 250ml bottle d’Ink7.7™ may suffice, wise to have an extra bottle (take note -this leather is absorbent).
Best way to apply dINK, air brush- then agitate with brush, how will I use eraser- after it dwells for 30 minutes?

I just used the foam brush as you did using the d’Oil4.4™ for the nubuck, spraying is an option then agitate either with leatherBrush1™ or nubuckBrush2™.

30 minutes is the minimum dwelling time, I prefer to leave it overnight to get the maximum out of the product.

You can lightly mist it with d’Grease4.9™ after that, scrub with anilineEraser4™ (the thicker spongy side for general scrubbing, the thin hard rubber for spotting if needed) and extract with absorbent disposal towel (Kimberly Clarke Rags).

Do not try to remove all the flaps (it needs to be laid back during the impregnation step).

Step 2: To remove sticky residues - use clean3.8™.
Estimate 4 quarts
Step 3: To acidify rinse until towel shows clean with a squeaky clean - use rinse3.0™.
Estimate 8 quarts (as a double-up for the relaxer3.3™).
Step 4: To rectify tackiness or sliminess after a wet finger rub test - use acidifier2.0™.
Estimate Standby 250ml (When surface tackiness is ignore, a recall for peeling is almost certain - I have been there!).
describe wet finger rub test. And how exactly do you want acidifier used?

During the final acidify rinse with rinse3.0™ is the time to go through with our bare hand instead of the towel to check for tackiness.

Where areas of tackiness is contacted, spray more to rinse and extract with rinse3.0™ until it’s eliminated otherwise use acidifier2.0™ instead until tackiness is gone with a healthy squeak.

SPECIAL ATTENTION ON WORN AREAS:

These areas need special cleaning attention (avoid removing leather flaps - while removing deteriorated finishes).

After relaxer3.3™ cover-up and dwell overnight, follows with fatliquor5.0™ cover-up and dwell over night too.

Next day, while the leather is still damp, spray with rinse3.0™ and lay tissue paper (Kleenex) on these worn areas.

Spray rinse3.0™ on the tissue paper to eliminate air bubbles to have a tight contact, lay towel (to hold the tissue down, otherwise might be blown away or loss the surface contact) on top and allow for fast drying (air movement with dehumidifier).

This creates a wicking process through the thin tissue paper to collect the remaining suspended residues from within the leather structure.

When the leather is completely dry, then use the anilineEraser4™ (dry) to delicately erase the worn and highly absorbent leather surface of its suspended foreign soil particulates.


C: Leather Structure Restoration (reduce coarse breaks, softening and strengthening leathers).
Step 5: To hydrate leather structure - use relaxer3.3™.
Estimate 2 quarts
Step 6: To replenish diminished original fatliquor - use fatliquor5.0™.
Estimate 2 - 3 quarts (if new also means the softening and strengthening the leather making it more supple and flexible and reducing those coarse breaks (creases) too.

SPECIAL ATTENTION - CLEANING UP NON-PENETRATED SURFACE FATLIQUOR PRIOR TO impregnator26™ or adhesion73™.

Lightly mist semi-absorbent leather surface with clean3.8™ to rid of non-penetrated fatliquor follows with rinse3.0™.

Make sure fatliquor5.0™ penetrate the leather structure for its softening purposes, otherwise surface residue still has to be clean up prior to impregnator26™ or adhesion73™ (dried-up non-penetrated surface fatliquor residue is pure tanning oil - if present on leather surface may pose adhesion problem).

Fatliquor5.0™ is good for the structure but bad if remain on the surface, when it is applied prior to color refinishing especially for non-absorbent or semi-absorbent leather where pigment adhesion is also a top priority as well as softness.

We have to allow for this tight balance with not much of a choice, if we are producing premium quality jobs.

When we do work on high end leathers, we strive to be precise without fretting - it’s also the attitude that brings success even though we may be gifted with the aptitude.

SANDING:

Sand (oscillating) the entire dried surface with 1200 or 1500 grit to remove surface topcoat without hurting the leather grains for better “bite” prior to adhesion73™.

For the worn areas, I suggest an application of impregnator26™ to laid down all flaps first, when dry sand lightly, thereafter continue with impregnator and work the flaps into the surface again.

D: Surface Grain Repair.
Step 7: To repair, tighten, smoothen and strengthen surface grain - use impregnator26™.
Estimate 1 - 4 250ml bottles (hard to tell from pictures how absorbent or weak the leather surface is - level out the absorbency is an important consideration for subsequent other coatings).
Will i be using any semi color mixeded with impregnator?

For semi-aniline there is no need to add color to the impregnator (the color is already there “aniline dye” unlike pigmented what you see is the natural chrome tanned crust which may have contrasting color from the finish color).

E: Adhesion Promotion
Estimate from a pint (500ml) to a quart (906ml) (leather is absorbent, unlike non-absorbent leathers thus need more without a doubt).
I assume this is Adhesion73?

Yes!

G: Semi-Aniline Refinishing System.
Step 10: To improve coverage of blemishes, stains or repairs that show through - use semiColor74™ with thickener48™.
Estimate 3 quarts for color + 150 ml for thickener.
Step 11: To protect the semi-aniline color coat - use semiTop54M™.
Estimate minimum 1 quart (depends on the number of coatings - I would give an extra two coats on the heavy used areas - it also depends how wet each coat is, certainly no overloading). The leather wears depends heavily on this protective coating. We are assuming we are providing a premium service, so we do accordingly as we have educated our customer.
I: Surface Conditioning.
Step 11: To impart a non-stick buttery feel surface with the classical leather scent - use leatherScent’B™.
Estimate minimum 250ml.
Between the white set you have just completed, you will be surprise that all materials suddenly goes way up high for this set. The difference is non-absorbency leather versus absorbent leather takes more than three times the average products. The penetrator26™ helps you cut down on other subsequent products on the surface damaged areas, otherwise these areas will be weak and look unnatural.

chet
01-02-2009, 02:59 PM
Roger I should be receiving the sofa soon. I have a concern with the dInk, it is much thicker than the dInk i already had in stock, could freezing during shipping have harmed it? It is almost like glue.

Roger Koh
01-03-2009, 07:38 PM
Just warm it up to room temperature, you will see that the viscosity goes up and becomes more fluid (either by warming near a fire place or put it into a tight zip lock bag and submerge it in a container under hot running water).

Note:
Remember to take good pictures of your every steps.

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®

chet
02-04-2009, 12:55 PM
Roger,

We thoroughly pre-cleaned, inked, dgreased, cleaned, rinsed, relaxer, and fatliquored to your specs.

We then covered with tissue soaked with rinse, covered with towels, dried for two days.

We now cleaned and rinsed non damaged areas, but only erased worn areas.

The pictures follow.

Should we try to remove remaining spots? and use what?

should we clean and rinse all areas that we polticed and erased?

Will the Impregnator repair the flaps and grain, or do we need something else? I only see this situation on 2 cushions.



#1: pictures after tissue removed;
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/2-4-09360.jpg


#2: Wicked-up soil residue
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/2-4-09366.jpg


#3: Pictures after anilineEraser4 to remove wick-up residues.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/2-4-09373.jpg



#4: Another view after anilineEraser4 to remove wick-up residues.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/2-4-09372.jpg



#5: Pictures of small spots that remain
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/2-4-09374.jpg


#6: A light blue spot that remain.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/2-4-09377.jpg


#7: Unknown brown spots.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/2-4-09378.jpg


#8: Other unknown brown spots.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/2-4-09382.jpg



#9: blemish or scratch?
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/2-4-09371.jpg



#10: Ring?
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/2-4-09367.jpg



#11: The way the worst area of grain looks now
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/2-4-09385.jpg


#12: Another view - the way the worst area of grain looks now
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/2-4-09384.jpg

Roger Koh
02-05-2009, 11:08 AM
>>>Should we try to remove remaining spots? and use what?


Picture #4: Wick-up soil removal can be improved further with anilineEraser4™ otherwise reclean.


Picture #5: This little brown spots partially removed could be a protein stain.

If it is a general protein stain uses d’Protein11.0™ with a cotton swab and dab it wet and let it dwell about 15 minutes.

Thereafter agitate with a suitable spatula while adding additional drips to keep it wet and continue with gentle agitation.

I prefer to use a blunt out bamboo skewer stick to accomplish this task.

When the spot is completely removed, use acidifier2.0™ to neutralize it.

Then follows with clean3.8™ and rinse3.0™.

If the brown spot does not response, it may be an old blood stain, so use d’Tarnish1.3™ to oxidize the iron rust instead.

Then follows with clean3.8™ and rinse3.0™.


Picture #6: Shows a light blue spot that remain - use d’Ink7.7™ and let it dwell as long as you wish with in between extraction with a cotton swab.


Pictures #7 & #8: Other unknown brown spots - proceed as Picture #5 recommendation.


Picture #9: blemish or scratch?

This is the original scratch the cow/heifer/bull/steer/calf may have scratch themselves and heal.

It’s a mark that reveals that this is a full-grain leather of higher value.

Leave it as it is.


Picture #10: Shows ring near the edge.

Problem associated with incomplete wetting out the leather structure through the final fatliquoring process that leaves this mark.

The lighter areas should be wet out with relaxer3.3™ and feather out to the darker area.

Thereafter apply fatliquor5.0™ and massage it in, seal it off with clear plastic and let it dwell 4 - 8 hours or overnight.

Leave it to slow natural dry until the next day.


>>>Should we clean and rinse all areas that we polticed and erased?

Not necessary, we are already in the Dry Operation that include fine sanding with 1000 - 1500 grit sandpaper.


>>>Will the Impregnator repair the flaps and grain, or do we need something else? I only see this situation on 2 cushions.

You need leatherBond3D™ and leatherBond7A™ for repairs.


Roger

chet
02-10-2009, 04:19 AM
#1: Picture just after final rinse thorough drying and erasing.
Leather has developed a slight finger writing effect like nubuck in the very worn and soiled areas.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/aniline004.jpg



#2: Picture after 2 coats impregnator26.
Very dark in worn areas, is this normal and why won't aniline lighten to the base color?
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/aniline011.jpg



#3: Close up of worst grain area after 2 coats.
Do I keep applying Impreganator or do I need leather bond?
Thsi one cusion is the only one with this type damage.
This is the same area I have been showing all along.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/aniline010.jpg


#4: Close-up of worn areas
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/aniline009.jpg

Roger Koh
02-10-2009, 12:13 PM
>>>#2: Picture after 2 coats impregnator26.
>>>Very dark in worn areas, is this normal and why won't aniline lighten to the base color?

It’s normal even for worn grains to darken even with any types of clear oil.

The difference in color has to do with “Refractive Index - Critical Angle Phenomenal in Optics”.


>>>#3: Close up of worst grain area after 2 coats.
>>>Do I keep applying Impreganator or do I need leather bond?
>>>Thsi one cusion is the only one with this type damage.
>>>This is the same area I have been showing all along.

When applying impregnator26™, it is meant for the worn areas only.

While the worn areas soak in rapidly, wipe-off the non-absorbent simultaneously during the first coating.

For subsequent 2nd or 3rd impregnator26™ coating (leatherBond3D™ not necessary for such situation), concentrate only on the darker penetrated areas only - wipe off non-absorbent surrounding.

Purpose for the impregnator26™ is to restore, seal and strengthen worn area leveling out uneven absorption for further coating process.

Fills and tightens with good leveling properties that is film forming for improve abrasion resistance.


Note:
Sand the entire cushion using 1200 to 1500 grit to achieve a smooth feel on the worst worn areas with localized touch-up to even out porosity.

Than proceed with adhesion73™.

Leather because it’s natural, it’s not perfect that is why we have a varieties of leather types.

That is why for hindsight we have predicted this problem, to decide to go for “Semi-Aniline”.

It will be a problem if we insist to refinish it to the original aniline.

So, smile!

You are on track!

Roger Koh

chet
02-11-2009, 08:05 PM
Picture of worse area, the rest feel and look very good.

There are 6 or more coats of impregnator on this cushion, I sanded it once.

Can I put impregnator on thicker, should I sand more often?

I think I need to add impreganator until the cracks are nearly level with surface, which will hide and fill the larger cracks still remainig.

How thick can impregnator be?

How much time do I need in between refilling with impregnator?

Can I speed up drying with a hair drier?
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/1-10-09035.jpg

Roger Koh
02-12-2009, 11:51 AM
>>>Picture of worse area, the rest feel and look very good.
>>>There are 6 or more coats of impregnator on this cushion, I sanded it once.

There is no need to apply on the entire cushion where there are no surface damages.


>>>Can I put impregnator on thicker, should I sand more often?

If you have applied precisely onto the worn areas, there is no necessity to sand off (wipe access off while it is still wet on non-damaged surface).


>>>I think I need to add impregnator26™ until the cracks are nearly level with surface, which will hide and fill the larger cracks still remaining.

leatherBond3D™ with a higher solid content does the filling up better and quicker.


>>>How thick can impregnator26™ be?

No way you want impregnator26™ to show the thickness!

It is intended to strengthen the inter-fibrillary leather structure and NOT THE SURFACE!


>>>How much time do I need in between refilling with impregnator26?

As long as it’s been absorbed, continue refilling.


>>>Can I speed up drying with a hair drier?

Yes you can!

Roger Koh
[email protected]

chet
02-12-2009, 04:29 PM
I'm sure i allowed some impregnator to cover the undamaged surface without adequately wiping enough of it off. Should it be sanded off ?

Roger Koh
02-13-2009, 09:45 AM
>>>I'm sure I allowed some impregnator to cover the undamaged surface without adequately wiping enough of it off. Should it be sanded off?


Sand it if you may, but do not damage the grains.

Remember we are refinishing Aniline to Semi-Aniline and NOT to pigmented Leather.

From here, we still have coatings of: adhesion73™ > semiColor74™ > semiTop57™.

The end result if done with finesse will be Semi-Absorbent (that’s what micro-pigment is for).

It should still allows future relaxer3.3™ and fatliquor5.0™ penetration to achieve perpetual softness and strength to the leather.

That’s why we see less cracking in semi-aniline than pigmented leather.

Do not have too heavy coating at each spray especially for semi-aniline.

Don’t try to hide the natural beauty - scars, scratches, insect bite, urine burn marks too much.

So is damage repaired areas included as so?

Talk to our customer first - otherwise they may think it’s an unacceptable excuses.

Enhance the beauty of the leather to have better aesthetic, don’t overkill and make it too artificial.

Remember, leather structure softness or suppleness has to be maintained as close to the original too.

Work like an artist!

Roger Koh
604 468 2340 (PST)

chet
02-16-2009, 02:41 PM
Finished redyeing, the finish looks very good and feels good also.

I will Leather scent tomorrow.

You made mention of not overloading the grain.

I applied up to 5-7 light coats of dye to fully cover darkened areas.

I used 1 1/2 quarts of the 3 quarts you supplied.

I assume I needed to keep applying light coats until the leather looked good.


#1:
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/1-14-09003.jpg


#2: After 2 - 3 light coats.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/1-14-09008.jpg


#3: After 4-5 coats, still some darkness showing through.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/1-14-09012.jpg


#4: Finished cushion, the one I have been showing all along.
Finished secton of worse areas. Looks new.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/1-14-09017.jpg

Roger Koh
02-17-2009, 11:32 AM
Can we see the full view of the before and the after, please?

Roger Koh