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View Full Version : Pigmented (Micro/Semi-Aniline) - Greasy and Almost Rotting: Semi-Aniline Leather Loveseat - Do you Think it is Too Far Gone to Restore It?



pristine
07-22-2009, 08:16 AM
This first pictures shows the worst build up on one arm rest.

I appears to be rotting.

Do you think it is too far gone to restore?



#1:
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/P1010455.jpg



#2:
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/P1010453.jpg



#3:
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/P1010454.jpg



#4:
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/P1010456.jpg



#5:
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/P1010458.jpg



#6:
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/P1010460.jpg

Roger Koh
07-23-2009, 01:40 PM
Have to test clean it out those bad areas to see if it’s really rotting!

The rotting here may refers to alkaline exposure from body oils and perspirations that shift the pH value form 7 > 8> 9, or worst case >10 especially heavy contaminated urine.

This rotting is mainly due to the presence of protein components from the perspiration that when ferments by the natural bacteria from the atmosphere shifts the ammonia and phosphorus salt alkaline.

As leather neutral is pH 4, often mistaken as the neutral of the pH scale 7 to be that of leather is a mistake.

As the pH value of the leather shift form its pH neutral of 4 it breaks bonds with other anionic leather constituents like tanning agents, fatliquors, preservatives, etc.

Thus the result of rotting leathers manifest itself progressively as tackiness, stickiness, sliminess to deteriorating and cracking.

Mud cracking leathers like the first picture shows is a clear sign that the fatliquor has diminishes through the breaking-up of hydrogen-bonds between the protein fibers and the fatliquor molecules.

How to save this “rotting”.

Re-Tanning:

It is not practical to re-tan the leather with tanning agents however in principle it is possible to do it.

It is a tedious process starting from the soaking process all over again as originally done in tannery.


pH Neutralizing:

To bring back the pH value of the leather from the alkaline side to the leather neutral of pH 4 - use acidifier2.0


Hydrating:

To hydrate the leather structure so as to separate all those stick and crush together fibrils and open up the inter-fibrillary spaces that will soften up the leather to have more air pocket spaces after fatlliquoring.

However when soft leathers is wet and dry again it will always be stiffer than before it was wet and will be just as weak in tear strength.

Hydrating is the preconditioning of dried leathers prior to fatliquoring.


Fatliquoring:

Fatliquor is the lifeblood of leather- fatliquor5.0 replacing the once blood that nourishes with water and fats to soften and strengthen as an analogy, so to speak.

Impregnating:

The weak and loose grains is to be tighten and strengthen up with impregnator26 - thus becomes part of the leather itself.

Recommended procedure to follow:

Step 1: Prep Clean with prepClean7.7.
Step 2: Clean with clean3.8.
Step 3: Rinse with rinse3.0.
Step 3A: razor60 off the entire deteriorated finish to the crust.
Step 4: Inspect for penetrated oil and grease otherwise - d’Grease2.2 > rinse3.0.
Step 5: Neutralize with acidifier2.0.
Step 6: Hydrate with hydrator3.3.
Step 7: Fatliquor with fatliquor5.0, see video from Discovery Channel - http://www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1772
Step 7A: Dry prep before impregnating - no returning back after impregnator26 locks-in.
Step 8: Impregnating with impregnator26.
Step 9: Adhesion coat with adhesion73
Step 10: Color coat with semiAniline54.
Step 11: Top coat with semiTop72M
Step 12: Leather scent feel condition with leatherScent’B.

Try it out, and show us some picture when you’re stuck!

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®

pristine
07-29-2009, 11:28 AM
Steps followed prior to snapping the below photos:

1. prepClean7.7

2. clean3.8 > rinse3.0

3. razor60 > let dry

4. d'Oil4.4 (30 min dwell time)

5. rinse3.0

6. acidifier2.0


#1)
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/sheepskindlanolin005.jpg


#2)
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/sheepskindlanolin006.jpg



Where do I go from here for the best outcome?

Roger Koh
07-29-2009, 12:39 PM
Dry Prep Phase:

Remove all deteriorated finishes and surface crust carefully with:

1) leatherEraser4

2) nubuckEraser5

3) stake70

4) razor60

5) Fine Sanding with 1200 / 1500 sanding

Let see the result of the “Dry Prep” before we move on…


Note:

Your Step "4" above should use d'Grease2.2 instead!


Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®

pristine
07-30-2009, 12:09 PM
I appreciate the recommendation of sanding.

The leather on the badly damaged arm now looks and feels both better and smoother.

Do you think that it is ready for the next steps in the process now?


http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/rottingleather002.jpg


http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/rottingleather003.jpg

Roger Koh
07-31-2009, 09:40 AM
Picture #1

Shows those deep creases that need to be massaged and stretched cross-wise during hydration.

It’s to help hydrator3.3 ease of separating those crushed and stick together internal leather fibrils.

An overnight soaking preferred, massaging and stretching after the plastic and tissue is unwrapped (take pictures) again to reduce the crease; otherwise repeat the hydration overnight again.

Process: Spray soak > massage and stretch > cover with tissue > cling wrapped with plastic > overnight dwelling > unwrap > massage & Stretch to reduce depth of crease.


Picture #2
Shows the effect of long term Hydrolysation and oxidation.

Hope these residues would be trapped by the tissue paper during the wicking process.



This next phase you are going through is the “fatliquoring Process” which involve the following sequences:

1) Pre-fatliquoring or hydrating - use hydrator3.3 to precondition the dried leathers, relieve of the crush and stick together leather fibrils prior to effective fatliquoring.

2) Fatliquoring - use fatliquor5.0 to replenished what’s diminishes originally from the tannery.

3) Post-fatliquoring - or acidifying rinse - use rinse3.0 to further charge the protein fibers so that the hydrogen-bond between the anionic (-ve) fatliquor5.0 and the cationic (+ve) fibrils is strengthened (see how the stray milky fatliquor disappear into the leather structure with the present of rinse3.0).

The rinse3.0 helps drive the fatliquor5.0 into the leather, without otherwise it's wasted.

Spray and massage with hand (feels squeaky - well done), it's fun.


The Time Duration for each Process:

1) Hydrating - Overnight with tissue and plastic cling wrapper.

2) Fatliquoring - Same procedure as hydrating (remember to massage and stretch them while damp during and after.

3) Acidifying Rinse - to assist in driving the fatliquoring into the leather structure (do not let them remain on the surface).


Please take some pictures along the way and post the sequence described.


Happy fatliquoring!


Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®

pristine
09-08-2009, 11:31 AM
Leather on the one arm rest had significant deterioration.

Because of permanent damage, client opted to darken the color of luv seat to better hide the damage.

Sanding and impregnator significantly helped smooth the surface, but as you can see, there is still visible damage remaining.

In such circumstances, we recommend that you advise the client that you are able to improve, but not completely restore this level of damage.


http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/rugpool004.jpg

http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/rugpool006.jpg

http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/rugpool007.jpg

http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/rugpool009.jpg

pristine
10-26-2009, 05:10 PM
The problem areas are holding up well, but the 2 seat cushions are cracking thru new finish. This is a problem I've had on other jobs what am I doing wrong?

http://i433.photobucket.

[IMG]http://i433.photobucket
[IMG]http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/P1010585.jpg
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/P1010586.jpg

Roger Koh
10-26-2009, 05:18 PM
Try re-posting your pictures!

pristine
11-12-2009, 10:01 AM
The idea of using leatherBond3D with the impregnator26 was ingenious!

I wasn't sure what ratios to use but I started small then for second treatment did more...

I don't want it to come back again! I hope this works, I don't see any reason why it wouldn't.

Thanks again!