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Questions!
09-05-2017, 07:12 PM
Hello Roger, I’ve been searching for advise on the internet and came across your leather advise—it sounded the most promising. I have a vintage Chanel bag with partially flattened/deflated CC quilts. I need help restoring its puffiness. You mentioned Fatliquor-5.0 on the internet. Please advise how I may do it myself at home. This vintage Chanel is from the 90’s. Regular leather polish/cream used. It’s a hand me down from family.

I’ve attached a photo below:

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Roger Koh
09-05-2017, 07:43 PM
>>> I have a vintage Chanel bag with partially flattened/deflated CC quilts. I need help restoring its puffiness.

Flattened/deflated quilting that loss its puffiness is the result of diminishing fatliquor (ionic negative -ve charged fat and oil). In leather fatliquor is the “lifeblood of leather” the fat plumps the leather and the oil lubricates for suppleness. As fatliquor is VOC (volatile organic compound) it both evaporates and leaches out when the hydrogen weakens. In this case, it is by natural aging. Original tannery fatliuoring averages 15% of fat and oil content when the leather is ready to be used. Through time the percentages drops as the fat and oil evaporates. The leather shrunk dimensionally that result in a flattened appearance. When the original fatliquor is replenished will revert back to its original suppleness. However, since it is already sewn, and with finishes, it poses more difficult to re-stretched back to its original puffiness. Unlike a pair of soft lambskin gloves which can be stretch up to 60% in dimension (that’s why they are commonly only in three sizes). The answer is still with replenishing with Fatliquor-5.0 but limited to a degree due to construction and finishing. An aniline leather (absorbent) will response better then a semi-aniline/micro-pigmented leathers (non-absorbent), unless micro crazing has developed.

However, Kit-A3 is the recommended kit and the restorative care is adopted for a holistic restoration . . .
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-a3-aniline-leather-care-kit/
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Restorative Care:
This is the ultimate restorative or salvage care system that removes accumulated soiling including aged conditioners. Accumulated soiling that fills creases is often mistaken for cracks. Using Prep-4.4 performs restorative cleaning. It works by chemical reaction to emulsify soiling through its penetrating, lubricating and suspending power. Horsehair detailing Brush-1 is recommended to worked into heavily soiled areas sufficiently to avoid excessive agitation that might damage already weaken finishes especially on heavily used areas by . . . 1st step - Restorative Cleaning: Instruction . . . 1- Apply Prep-4.4 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1, ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time. 2- Allow a dwell time of 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries prior to towel extraction until it shows clean. 3- Sticky residue is removed by Clean-3.8 with gentle brush agitation and towel extracts until it shows clean. 4- Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extracts to a squeaky-clean. 5- Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat cleaning process as necessary or proceed to hydrating. Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure. Its surfactancy helps check for surface tension of blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. 2nd step – Hydrating: Instruction . . . 1- Spray Hydrator-3.3 to saturate with an even appearance to soften up the leather. 2- Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes and towel extract wick up soiling until it shows clean. Fat and oil replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability thus strengthen these exposed leather from cracking. 3rd step – Fatliquoring: Instruction . . . 1- Spray Fatliquor-5.0 in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally. 2- Repeat application in between drying until saturated. 3- The leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness. 4- Surface strays are wiped with Hydrator-3.3 to free of sticky residue. 4th step – Protecting: Instruction . . . 1- Mist sprays Protector-B spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

Read more . . .

Hydrator-3.3
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/hydrator-3-3/

Fatliquor-5.0
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/fatliquor-5-0/

Question for further clarification are welcome.

Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coaching
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]