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jhall70
11-02-2016, 08:22 AM
I have an older pair of speed skating boots that after dyeing and a few other steps, will not take any finishing, (i.e. shoe creme and wax) and remains sticky to the touch.

Here are my restoration steps:
1 Stripped boots with acetone and removed old finish.
2 Dyed boots black
3 conditioned leather with mink oil paste, that I found out later contained silicone
4 coated boots with polyurethane after reading suggestions on a leather website
5 attempted to strip both
6 stripped poly with acetone
7 try to strip silicon with ammonia
8 after stripping attempts, conditioned leather
9 attempted finish with some improvement, but leather still doesn't seem to be absorbing shoe creme 100 percent and the surface remains sticky.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Thanks!

Roger Koh
11-02-2016, 09:11 AM
Please show some pictures.

Leather may have denatured or reverted to rawhide that remain sticky - it may now be a structure problem that the leather constituents (tanning agent) may have leach out. The ammonia is most probably the cause - need to note that leather is an "amphoteric" material. Acetone will dry up the fatliquor as well. To do it right we need to follow what is done in a modern tannery practice worldwide base on bio-chemistry science and logic.

Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: roger@leatherdoctor.com

jhall70
11-03-2016, 10:08 AM
7218
This picture shows most of the leather unfinished (except for the toe area) after the ammonia step. The leather isn't sticky at all until I attempt to finish using shoe creme and wax.
I ran into the same stickiness before using the ammonia when trying to finish with shoe creme.
Any ideas?

Roger Koh
11-03-2016, 10:31 AM
>>> The leather isn't sticky at all until I attempt to finish using shoe creme and wax.

Sounds that the shoe cream and wax are the problem

>>> I ran into the same stickiness before using the ammonia when trying to finish with shoe creme.

This is a double confirmation that the shoe cream is the problem

Look at this system for refinishing micro-pigmented leathers that matches the your original modern tannery practice worldwide.

7219
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-sa7-cl-semi-aniline-leather-color-refinishing-kit/
Leather DoctorŽ Kit Sa7.cl, micro-pigmented leather color refinishing kit is design for a holistic restoration approach to not only the finishes but also rejuvenating the leather for suppleness. Most of these repairs may range from missing finishes to abrading damages into the leather structure. Some expose areas may be contaminated with foreign soiling that includes conditioners, protectors, body oil, grease and sweat or alkaline overexposure from cleaners. A comprehensive repair for a long-term lasting solution will require a holistic approach to deal with both the exposed structure and surface finishes. The practical and functional softness and strength of the leather depends on the health of the structure with average thickness between 0.9 to 1.2mm from stiffness and cracking. The aesthetic aspect of the leather finishes averages 0.02mm (or 20 micron) in thickness for practical compressing and flexing from cracking. A leather-safe restoration system begins by stripping with Stripper-2.3 and rinsing with Rinse-3.0. Degreasing with Degreaser-2.2 follows with Acidifier-2.0. The suffix numbers of these four products denotes it pH value for recharging the protein fiber ionic positive besides the act of decontamination. The leather integrity is revitalizes once the ionic attraction between the positive protein fiber and its negative leather constituents like the tanning agent and fatliquor (fat, oil and water) is initiated. Leather rejuvenating system for softness and strength is accomplishes with Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0. Surface uneven absorption is seals with Adhesor-73 to reduce the need for color over-coating thus increase its flexibility and stretchability from premature cracking. Protector-B imparts a non-stick rub-resistant surface with a buttery feel, reduces noises that translate into less friction wear. As the leather surface is well lubricated it reduces compression when comes to heavy body contact thus reduces compressed creases and wrinkles.

Instruction:

Stripping Existing Deteriorating Finishes:
1. Cover and tape off frames, trims and protect flooring.
2. Mist sprays Stripper-2.3, Eraser-4 scrub with help of 2000-grit sandpaper feathering out seamlessly and towel extract for an even appearance.

Degreasing:
1. Shake Degreaser-2.2 to gel prior to use with a repeat shake and rest until it gels.
2. Transfer to Eraser-4; agitate to saturate the stain, feather out to the entire section.
3. Towel extracts suspended soiling after 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries until it shows clean.
4. Spray Acidifier-2.0, towel extract until it shows clean to a healthy squeak.

Hydrating:
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 saturating the stain area and feather out for an even appearance.
2. Covering with tissue paper without airspace to trap wick up stains instead of remaining on the leather surface as it dries.
3. Peel tissue paper when crispy dry and use Eraser-4 to erase surface residue prior to fat and oil replenishing.

Fat and Oil Replenishing:
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 to precondition the leather prior to fat and oil replenishing.
2. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 and redistribute with foam brush until saturation.
3. Repeat application each time water contents evaporate until fully saturated.
4. Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with Hydrator-3.3.
5. Allow natural drying for extra softness.

Dry Prep:
1. Erase wick-up residue with Eraser-4 prior to repairs.

Adhesion Promotion Coating:
1. Apply Adhesor-73 by foam brush to seal surface uneven absorption rate and promote adhesion simultaneously.

Color Coating:
1. Apply color matching Micro-54 + 10% Thickener-48 for flow control and airbrushing for professional result.
2. Fine dry atomize dispersion with more air is achieve with 80 to 100psi of air pressure.
3. Light spray is preferred and let dry in between coats to build up colorcoat.

Topcoating:
1. Shake the product well and apply by airbrushing for professional result.
2. Use lint free paper towel to even out drips and streaks.
3. Speed dries between coats with help of hair dryer.
4. 2000-grit sanding may applies to improve touch and appearance.

Rub-Resistant Protection:
1. Mist sprays Protector-B redistribute with a foam brush / paper towel and ready for use when dry.