Aniline (Waxy-Matte) - Severely faded sofas for: "Avripas"

[chet]

Roger,
We have these two sofas to restore. I am sending the leather swatches for you to color match. Let us know which dye (s) we will need. I was thinking of 1 Qt of Aniline-76 and 1 qt of Antique-27 Just in case the Aniline-76 doesn't cover enough.

Also, this leather doesn't have stains, should we just clean, rinse, hydrate, fatliquor or should we use a prep cleaner first.

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[Roger Koh]

From pictures this sofa is identified as Aniline Wax Pull-up.

General description for Aniline Wax Pull-up:
Wax pull-up leathers derive its color from dyestuff and effect wax that gives the leather a lively distressed look. When this leather is pulled, stretched or scratched, the waxes dissipate characteristically and become lighter in those areas. Sunlight and stretching through high wear areas are two main indications that the infused wax needs replenishing. As this, effect wax behaves just like the primary fatliquor they do diminish through ageing and will need periodic replenishing. Besides contributing to the color intensity, it improves in water shedding effect. Effect wax when applied to the leather penetrates while some coagulates as fine crystal and remains on the surface. The dried surface white powdery deposits are then heat activated and when they melt, they coat the surface with a glossy sheen

See this guide for Aniline Wax Pull-up leathers.
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>>> Let us know which dye (s) we will need. I was thinking of 1 Qt of Aniline-76 and 1 qt of Antique-27 Just in case the Aniline-76 doesn't cover enough.

Aniline-21 “staining” transparent dyestuff is used instead.


>>> Also, this leather doesn't have stains, should we just clean, rinse, hydrate, fatliquor or should we use a prep cleaner first.

When refinishing is decided and determined degreasing is of prime importance using Degreaser-2.2 and Acidifier-2.0 for rinse and pH control check for tackiness at the same time. Body contact areas may tend to be tacky and Acidifier-2.0 will rectify the pH in-balance, otherwise non-body contact areas Rinse-3.0 will do. Any other stain type is removed accordingly from the guide.

Hydrating using Hydrator-3.3 will improves the appearance of color lost and the longer it dwells up to 72 hours the better results it gets.

Dyeing with Aniline-21 is done before fatliquoring, the dyestuff is spray and brush in and any blotchiness is rectified with Hydrator-3.3 to redistribute them.

Fatliquor-5.0 plays an importance role in amplifying and magnifying the color intensity at this stage the appearance would be tremendously improved. You may take a fatliquor moisture content after completely dry and compare with reading taken prior to any cleaning from various areas you may find reading fluctuation. Sufficiently fatliquored leathers will show a deeper intensity of color appearance.

WaxEffect-8.6 is applied and works into the leather with a horsehair brush for an even appearance and after approximate 6 hours or so, a layer of fine crystal wax will form. A heat blower or hair dryer is used to activate the powdery wax into a shine.

Extra gloss is further achieved with AnilineTop-21G.

Protector-D+ or D match the leather finishes type and is used routinely to rectify light scuffing and improves appearance. Periodic care is done with WaxEffect-8.6 follows with Protector-D+ or D.



Recommended refinishing system
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Leather Doctor® Kit-Aw7.cl, aniline wax pull-up leather dye refinishing kit is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing after degreasing in a holistic approach. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected stains from the bare head and hands that show a darkening effect with a sticky feel have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the oil, grease and sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that the dyestuff has also break bonds with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or show signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH imbalance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies greasy contamination besides controlling dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Wax Effect-8.6 rejuvenates the structural wax pull-up effect and coagulates a cloudy waxy coating on the surface to be heat activated into the characteristic glossy sheen. Protector-D+ enhances a non-stick draggy-feel to shield against sticky soiling, besides healing and concealing lightening scuff and abrasion marks. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline wax pull-up leathers topcoat and dyestuff refinishing system.

[chet]

I'm really getting confused, why wax pull-up? I barely get sample to scratch and when I stretch it, it doesn't get lighter? On my previous post I was asking how to definitively tell what kind of leather we are working on. do you have a chart or a guide to help us determine the leather type?

[Roger Koh]

Easier if you use a leather moisture meter or simply used a wood moisture meter before you do any stretching.

A dried leather may only read 1% or 2%, the wax effect is only a tiny contribution in comparison to the traditional 14% of fatliquor, therefore a wax effect leather moisture contents when read from the tannery should be above 14%. If you cannot trace the wax effect content with a moisture meter, you think you can trace it by stretching it?

[chet]

If I were to use a moisture meter on this sample what reading would make it a waxed pull-up?

[chet]

Is this the type of moisture meter I need?

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/TestEquipment/MoistureMeter/ModelMST2-01/Ordering?gclid=Cj0KEQiA0aemBRC8p87zv_mc5qYBEiQAiEEMQYb5FcbB8HD16lBt9wnURtPs_S-7nb1A65QoIO1D35waAheK8P8HAQ

[Roger Koh]

Nothing!

Any moisture meter does not distinguished between fatliquor, wax effect, oil effect, contaminated body contact or just plain water absorbed from the atmosphere.

It is the total experience that one will acquire through practice - that's how EXPERT becomes expert!

A good picture is worth a thousand words - and by the picture I can identify it quite confidently.

You may want to check with your customer if they still have the description from where they bought to verify my positive identification.

[chet]

If you haven't noticed I've been trying to learn from you. But your making it extremely difficult to learn when you don't give answers.
HOW CAN YOU TELL THE DIFFENCE BETWEEN LEATHER TYPES? DO YOU HAVE A CHART OR SYSTEM TO DETRMINE LEATHER TYPES?

[Roger Koh]

>>> Is this the type of moisture meter I need?

For accuracy you may want to have 2 digits after the decimal point.

Reading should be able to read from 0% to 25% for practical usage.

25% is the mark for continuous fatliquor replenishing cycle.

14% is where the leather will still feels very dry to our hand.

Most of leather you will meet will be around 1% to 7% even for supposedly new leathers from retails.

As fatliquor is an extra cost, without any specification to it many tannery will still stinge on it, thus suppleness is already compromised.

[Roger Koh]

>>> If you haven't noticed I've been trying to learn from you. But your making it extremely difficult to learn when you don't give answers.
HOW CAN YOU TELL THE DIFFENCE BETWEEN LEATHER TYPES? DO YOU HAVE A CHART OR SYSTEM TO DETRMINE LEATHER TYPES?

Visited this thread?

http://www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com/forum/showthread.php?81-Identification-of-Leather-Types-and-finishes

[chet]

This thread is very helpful. But where was it and are there more threads like it?

[Roger Koh]

>>> But where was it and are there more threads like it?


http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...s-and-finishes

Just click the above. . .

I don't think so, but you may add more leather types or finishes to it for identification to increase the collection.

[Roger Koh]

>>> HOW CAN YOU TELL THE DIFFENCE BETWEEN LEATHER TYPES? DO YOU HAVE A CHART OR SYSTEM TO DETRMINE LEATHER TYPES?

In our Hands-on Training handout:

Chapter 2 devotes to Leather Origin and leathers from bird, fish, amphibian and mammal are discussed.

And

Chapter 4 devotes to Leather Finishes Type and all finishes from the different segment of Bag, Garment, furnishing and all Hair-on hide we can find from the market place are discussed.

And

Chapter 21 devotes to Leather Problem Solving Guide and currently has 28 leather problem solving guides.

And

Total handout is 22 chapters and is still working to editing and expanding this knowledge base developed for a minimum 5 days hands-on training program.

[chet]

Can we buy the training manual?

[Roger Koh]

Training manual comes with Hands-on training and it is the practical ability to delivers the results that counts.

Reading a manual alone without looking over someone's shoulder and see actual work done only limits to one imagination.

And words can only portray that much.

[Roger Koh]

Sample received is Waxy-Matte Aniline without the pull-up effect thus refinishing with Aniline-76 system preferred if there is no need of any blemishes to hide. Perhaps increasing its color intensity to match the darkest remaining color suffices. Color intensity is adjusted with Aniline Clear-700 at 25% interval to max out intensity. Do you want adjustment done at my end or yours?

Your order is 1 quart or Aniline-76 and 1 quart of Antique-27.

If you wish to have both in transparent and translucent effect, it would be Antique-27 as the primary coating and Aniline-76 as the secondary coating.

You will need AnilineTop-21W and Protector-W+ or W to complete the system.


(The waxy-matte (W) is a more delicate waterbased emulsion topcoat that produces a matte luster with a waxy feel to match original finishes. Matching non-stick, rub-resistant protection is to use the waxy-feel leather-scented Protector-W+ or the scentless Protector-W).

Please reconfirm your order.

Roger Koh
[email protected]

[chet]

Roger , after our discussion today 3-4-15

Order
1 Qt. aniline 21
1 Qt. aniline-76
250ml Antique27

We will reduce color with clear for final adjustment of color.

Plan A; After cleaning and hydrating, we will try using Aniline-21 to keep leather as natural as possible.

Plan B; If unable to restore color uniformly we will have to use Adhesor and then apply Aniline-76 to blend and finish.

Plan C; If unable to restore with above two methods we will have to apply Antique-27

What top coat should we use when we are finished?

[Roger Koh]

>>> What top coat should we use when we are finished?

For Plan A – Aniline-21 > AnilineTop-21W
This is a waxy-matte look and feel will retain close to the original.

For Plan B & C or where Adhesor-73 is used the leather becomes less absorbent topcoat used would be AnilineTop-76G/S (gloss or satin).

[chet]

How should we proceed to clean these 2 sofas?

[chet]

I think we should clean3.8, Rinse, and Hydrate for 3 days. I don't think we need prep4.4 or to dGrease2.2?
There is 1 small ink spot, what should we use?

[chet]

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1-Bottom cushions have some faint stains of unknown origin.


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2- another bottom cushion


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3- Similar spots/ stains on arms


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4- Bad ink stain kind of hidden area


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5- Light ink stain another area

After looking more closely, maybe we should use prep4.4 first and let it dwell overnight before cleaning?

[Roger Koh]

>>> I think we should clean3.8, Rinse, and Hydrate for 3 days.
I don't think we need prep4.4 or to dGrease2.2?

Comment:
Whenever refinishing either with topcoat alone or together with a complete re-dyeing system either Prep-4.4 and or Degreaser-2.2 is applicable.
In this case there is no evident of medium to heavy body grease preparatory cleaning should be with Prep-4.4 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 system and Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system used to spot clean those areas that shows evident of penetrated body grease.



>>> There is 1 small ink spot, what should we use?
>>> 4- Bad ink stain kind of hidden area
>>> 5- Light ink stain another area

Comment:
Use Prep-4.4 with a skintight paper towel for “reverse transfer”.
Inspect after 24 hours and change paper when stain is pick-up with remaining stain from the leather to go.
Sticky residue is thereafter removed with Clean-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0 system.



>>> 1-Bottom cushions have some faint stains of unknown origin.
>>> 2- another bottom cushion
>>> 3- Similar spots/ stains on arms

Comment:
Shaving off the topcoat during the restorative rinsing process may help wicking up the stain easier.
Need another inspection to see how it response before further recommendation.



>>> After looking more closely, maybe we should use prep4.4 first and let it dwell overnight before cleaning?

Comment:
Recommended to work on all the ink and dye spots as 1st phase.
2nd phase is apply Prep-4.4 and leave it overnight for more effect chemical reaction on soiling.

[chet]

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Fig 17 A
After we prep cleaned and left prep4.4 to dwell over several days, many of the stains were improved but the ink stains remained. We're not too concerned about the ink so we are going ahead with more cleaning.

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Fig 17 B
So we re-applied Prep 4.4 and cleaned and extracted repeatedly 3 to 5 times on the cushions and arms with Clean3.8 using a horse hair brush for agitation.

I then Rinsed repeatedly with distilled water, sprayed heavily and extracted off immediately with towels. I was finally getting some good soil transfer. I used about 1 gallon of water on these 2 sofas. I then switched to rinse3.0 and did a final rinse on all areas.

Next we applied Hydrator as thoroughly as we could and immediately covered.

We will Fatliquor next and allow to dwell overnight and then allow to completely dry naturally.

[chet]

Roger,

After fully dry our next steps will be,

Adhesor- apply and scrub in and extract immediately with paper towels. Should help to bring more dye to surface and help with adhesion of dye.
Repeat above adhesor application until leather has uniform absorption and is as uniform in appearance as we can achieve.

Apply Aniline76 dye- Reduce with Aniline clear for proper color intensity. Add thickener up to 10%. High spray pressure 60 to 100 psi, smaller particle and quicker drying between coats.
Should we wipe in first coats?



you mentioned when we apply the Aniline76 dye to this leather that we should be using high pressure

[Roger Koh]

>>> but the ink stains remained.

Show some pictures, there are 2 more options.

[Questions!]

#1
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[Roger Koh]

Tips:
Procedure for this problem panel:

1 – Sanding with 800grit – show picture.
2 – Re-clean with Prep-4.4 letting it dwell at least 15 minutes (longer is better) – show picture.
3 – Clean off Prep-4.4 with Clean-3.8 – show picture.
4 – Rinse off Clean-3.8 with Rinse-3.0 – sow picture.
5 – Use Hydrator-3.3 by pad rubbing and check for absorbency – show picture.
6 – Even out blotchiness if any with step 1 sanding – show picture.
7 – Check again for complete even in appearance – show picture.
8 – Only when evenness of appearance is achieved with satisfaction then process with Adhesor-73
9 – Adhesor-73 is to pull up some color and at the same time seal for even absorption prior to Aniline-73 system.

Tips:
Overspray is clean with Adhesor-73 to reduce drastic appearance.

Roger Koh
[email protected]

[chet]

4863
31-A How it looked after we had tried to use some micro 54 to cover it up.


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31-B After I tried to strip it with adhesor and then I used Stripper. I could not get it even without getting very aggressive.


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31-C I stopped because I just getting it too dark. I will try to strip it evenly tomorrow. Do you have any suggestions on how to strip it evenly?


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31-D Overall they look great, it's just the back where we tried to fix a small problem.

[chet]

Roger the last picture without a number is the one that had micro-54 that we had mixed ourselves. I was thinking after stripping it back down that I could lighten it with Micro-54 and make it as even as possible and then applying The Aniline 76. Let me know what you think?

[Roger Koh]

>>> 31-A How it looked after we had tried to use some micro 54 to cover it up.

Please describe your problem why you need Micro-54 (opacity) to do a cover up?


>>> 31-B After I tried to strip it with adhesor and then I used Stripper. I could not get it even without getting very aggressive.

Please explain your technique what tools in conjunction you used that you can be getting aggressive.


>>> 31-C I stopped because I just getting it too dark. I will try to strip it evenly tomorrow. Do you have any suggestions on how to strip it evenly?

Simply use Nubuck Brush-2 with spray on Stripper-2.3 – it strip beautifully albeit slow!


>>> Roger the last picture without a number is the one that had micro-54 that we had mixed ourselves. I was thinking after stripping it back down that I could lighten it with Micro-54 and make it as even as possible and then applying The Aniline 76. Let me know what you think?

It is a ‘bad’ idea to adulterate it with Micro-54.
In fact there is no necessity to sand at all in my opinion from pictures shown from post #26

Tips:
Use Stripper-2.3 in conjunction with Nubuck Brush-2 for a complete strip.
Use Adhesor-73 to remove layers thus reduces intensity.

Tips:
Add 10% Thickener-48 to Aniline-76 to control flow.
Adjust the spraying panel to horizontal position.

[chet]

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01 A Stripped evenly, Followed your direction, Stripper +brush wiped off with terry towels rags. We were very careful around welt and other seams.

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01-B There are a few areas where we use painters tape to be careful but it lifted a little dye. I was able to touchup with a very fine paint brush.

I want to tape off the areas that don't need dye right now, do have a suggestion how we can safely work up to those areas or is taping them off the only way?

We are hydrating and fatliquoring this unfinished area again. Next we plan on adhesor until area is uniformly absorbent. Are we on the right track?

[Roger Koh]

>>> I want to tape off the areas that don't need dye right now, do have a suggestion how we can safely work up to those areas or is taping them off the only way?

Tips:
You may lightly apply the matching topcoat with a fine bristle varnishing brush and when dry apply Protector-B or B+ before apply the masking tape – that way you will prevent lifting off the coloring when you remove the tape.
Another advantage to apply topcoat to the surrounding areas if you want not more working on them is for easy removal of overspray coloring. That way you will reduce or avoid further damages if you need overspray cleanups.


>>> We are hydrating and fatliquoring this unfinished area again. Next we plan on adhesor until area is uniformly absorbent. Are we on the right track?

I believe we are on the right track.
I ask for pictures for each step to pre trouble shoot but pictures did not come.
Now you are making a ‘U’ turn back to post #26.
Would have save you all this failed experience.

Is there a problem to reorient the spraying onto a horizontal position – picture please!


Tips:
Option is to have the remainder panels entirely removed - making color matching less critical.
I believe it will turn out better when view from behind.

Tips:
You do not want to end up like picture 31-C and start all over again.

[chet]

Agreed, post #26, we did not have clean edges and he did not apply adhesor until uniform absorbency. So when he applied dye it went on blotchy and the overspray darkened around the stripped area. He should have stripped cleanly from seam to seam and taped off other areas. I will send a picture when we have taped off and start applying dye. It is as uniform as it was originally, so I feel confident that we will get a good finish now.

[chet]

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02-A Ready for dye, Adhesor 3 times,


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02-B Tipped to keep dye from running and sagging, added thickener to also help.

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02-C Finished and looks very good

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Front view looks very good.

[Roger Koh]

Good job!

Tell us about the topcoat you used?