PDA

View Full Version : Aniline (Waxy-Matte) - Sofa Sun Faded Restoration for: - "PARTRICH"



chet
09-05-2014, 04:38 AM
Please call with any questions.

chet
09-17-2014, 05:48 AM
Can you rename thread?
Faded Aniline Sofa- Partrich

Roger Koh
09-17-2014, 11:06 AM
Thread renamed!

Roger Koh
09-17-2014, 12:11 PM
Sample received, this is “Glazed” aniline leather.

Glazed leathers are aniline-dyed through leathers, which have been polished to a high luster by passing through glass or steel roller under great pressure.

Once the luster becomes dull it is impossible to restore with mechanical polishing, thus the closest substitute would be using AnilineTop-21G. With this topcoating it transform into a standard gloss aniline. System includes using Protector-B+ to prolong the wear of the finishes.

Aniline-21staining dyestuff matches the original dyeing quality to produce an almost naked finishes without any surface build-up. However, this leather is more absorbent than standard aniline and any stains if not removed especially greasy in nature will produce a surface tension and the staining dyestuff can’t stain it, thus produces blotchy appearance. To ensure an even appearance all stains has to be removed and the surface tension check with Hydrator-3.3 for an even appearance prior to staining the protein fiber of the leather.

Depending on the condition of the grain, any surface blemishes that can be detect with fingers is to be restore with Adhesor-73, by doing so these repairs becomes non-stainable, thus the solution is either use Aniline-76 or mix with Aniline-21 to coat over existing repairs.

Thus although we are dealing with finer glazed aniline leather, it still depends on its condition and a compromise comes into play when it is no more in perfect condition, such as the inevitable usage of AnilneTop-21G to stimulate original gloss level and Aniline-76 to help out to coat over stain-surface-tension spots and repairs.

Use this Aniline (A.g) for glazed aniline leathers problem solving guide as reference.

3830


3831
Anilne-21 is recommended as add-on to this Kit A7.cl to produce a finer finish.
Leather DoctorŽ Kit A7.cl, aniline leather dye refinishing kit is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing from the simple sunlight fading to the severely sweat damages from body oil and grease. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected stains show a darkening effect with a sticky feel have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that the dyestuff has also break bonds with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or shows signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH imbalance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies greasy contamination besides controlling dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of a healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Custom redyeing commences prior to topcoat refinishing. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline leathers dyestuff and topcoat refinishing system. Please email [email protected] for custom matching services or choice of color: Antique-Brown, Black, Yellow, Orange, Red, Red-Brown, Rubine, Blue or Dark-Brown. And choice of topcoat luster: Gloss or Satin. This kit comes with reduced weight option to save on shipping thus the 250ml concentrate ratio such as Acidifier-2.0, Rinse-3.0, Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 has to be cut or filled up with distilled water prior to use.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
[email protected]
www.LeatherDoctor.com

chet
09-25-2014, 11:04 AM
Ready for dye, has been cleaned hydrated and fat liquored. Looks more even and some color came back. How should we proceed now?

A few pictures of where we are now.

3868
Still wet color test on deck, we will check tomorrow after completely dry.

3869387038713872

Looks more even and spots are gone but still need a lot of color.

chet
09-25-2014, 12:31 PM
By the way, I don't detect any stains whatsoever. It appears that it just needs dye.

Roger Koh
09-25-2014, 03:45 PM
>>> Ready for dye, has been cleaned hydrated and fat liquored.

Sequence correction for Anilne-21
1. Hydrator-3.3
2. Aniline-21
3. Hydrator-3.3
4. Fatliquor-5.0
5. Hydrator-3.3
6. AnilineTop-21G
7. Protector-B+

>>> Looks more even and some color came back. How should we proceed now?

You may proceed with C. skip A. and B. from the below processing sequences.


General Sequence of Process for Smooth Aniline Leathers:

A. Topcoat Stripping & Degreasing:
A1. All smooth leather surface finishing is not stainable and recommended to be stripped with Stripper-2.3 to allow even dye penetration into the leather crust with this “staining” Aniline-21 dyestuff. The presence of body grease and oil will resist staining and will result in blotchiness will be likewise degreases with Degreaser-2.2 follows with rinsing with Rinse-3.0. Acidifier-2.0 is used to control bleeding instead especially those body contact areas.

B. Other Stains Removal:
B1. Stains are removed accordingly, otherwise the darkest stain will be the lightest color intensity to just able to camouflage it, especially with transparent dyestuff the beauty of the grain and the blemishes both equally will show through.

C. Pre-inspection and Surface Pre-Conditioning with Hydrator-3.3
C1. Staining of dye is done after a check with Hydrator-3.3 for any surface tension. The leather may be completely saturated out to check for any surface blotchiness especially on heavily stained or used areas. Allowing any suspended below surface soiling to resurface and reverse transfer using a stretchable paper towel proves practical rather then still remaining on the leather surface. Until the leather crust or grain surface is without any surface tension that may manifest as blotchiness that Aniline-21 application begins. A final light mist spray inspection confirms that blotchiness or unevenness will not occur prior to the actual dye application.

D. Stain Dyeing with Aniline-21.
D1. Staining can be applied with lint-free paper towel, plush, foam or high quality varnishing brushes; without surface contact airbrushing produces the best result. Fast dry with air blower and the surface is inspected for evenness or correction until satisfaction.
D2. Surface evenness is further corrected or improves with Hydrator-3.3 using a lint-free towel and work over the surface to remove surface wick-up residue thus eliminating surface tension if any. By a wiping a Hydrator-3.3 saturated towel improves the overall appearance, allowing the dyestuff to further redistribute itself over the leather crust or grain.
D3. Inspect during each drying cycle when working with Hydrator-3.3 for evenness correction, improvement or control.

E. Fatliquoring with Fatliquor-5.0
E1. The surface is light mist with Hydrator-3.3 prior to Fatliquor-5.0 application. Fatliquor-5.0 is simply apply with using a 3” foam brush, spreading it and distributing for even saturation absorption to the entire surface at one time. As the water content evaporates more is applied at each drying cycle until the desired suppleness for softness and strength, replenishing up to 14% of the original tannery standard as so desired for its intent purpose, usage or appearance.

F. Pre-Conditioning Fatliquored Surface with Hydrator-3.3.
F1. Any surface tacky residue is removed with Hydrator-3.3, horsehair Brush-1 and towel extracted to a squeaky clean surface, let dry and ready for topcoating.

G. Topcoating with Aniline-21G, Aniline-21S
G1. Aniline-21G (gloss) and Aniline-21S (satin) are inter-mixable developed for the standard gloss/satin aniline leathers. Satin may follow gloss for a luster adjustment. Application is done with varnishing brush or airbrushing. Minor surface roughness is corrected with 2000grit sanding in between dried application.

H. Non-Stick, Rub-Resistant Protection:
Use Protector-B+ for gloss and satin finish leathers.

>>> A few pictures of where we are now.
Still wet color test on deck, we will check tomorrow after completely dry.
Looks more even and spots are gone but still need a lot of color.

The above general sequence is for absorbent smooth leathers with no skin damages or roughness that needs repairs.
When minor skin roughness with AnilineTop-21G proves not satisfactorily and is corrected or repaired with Adhesor-73 the surface becomes “non-stainable” thus the use of Aniline-76 to coat over these blemishes areas. In such repairs the entire leather need to be feathered out using Aniline-76 thereafter follows with matching topcoat.

Note the difference sequence when using Anilne-76

General Sequence for Anilne-76
1. Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 and relevant Stain Removal system.
2. Hydrator-3.3
3. Fatliquor-5.0
4. Hydrator-3.3
5. Adhesor-73
6. Aniline-76
7. AnilineTop-76G/S
8. Protector-B+

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
[email protected]
www.LeatherDoctor.com

Roger Koh
09-25-2014, 03:59 PM
>>> By the way, I don't detect any stains whatsoever. It appears that it just needs dye.

Check with your finger tips if you detect any surface roughness on wear areas, if they are perfect?

Stains are detected when you mist spray Hydrator-3.3 wipe with lint-free towel to inspect for any potential surface tension. Surface tension usually in rings or other stains marks resurfaced will also pick up by the Aniline-21. Hydrator-3.3 plays a very important role ensuring that the dyeing is free from blotchiness. It is further used to even out after Aniline-21 application and many functions as mentioned to produce the optimum result with dye staining.

Roger Koh
09-25-2014, 04:08 PM
>>> Still wet color test on deck, we will check tomorrow after completely dry.

How it looks when dry?

chet
09-26-2014, 07:50 AM
Aniline 21 Perfect match Aniline 76 was too dark so mixed 50% with Clear 63 to test. Color looks near perfect. I don't think we will need to go to Aniline 76, if we do I will wait for Clear 76.

3877
First color test after dry, 21 looks perfect 76 too deep

3878
Excellent match reduced 76 with clear 63 (50;50 mix)

Confused about dyeing, we are planning on spraying on the Aniline dye, do you want the leather wet with hydrator? Your post made it sound like that? I'm afraid if its wet with hydrator it will take longer for the dye to dry and we will be spending a lot of time applying dye.

Roger Koh
09-26-2014, 10:38 AM
>>> Confused about dyeing, we are planning on spraying on the Aniline dye,
Which aniline dye you are talking about, both Aniline-21 and Aniline-76?


>>> do you want the leather wet with hydrator? Your post made it sound like that? I'm afraid if its wet with hydrator it will take longer for the dye to dry and we will be spending a lot of time applying dye.

Aniline-21 dyeing process will be wetter as Hydrator-3.3 helps along the way to avoid blotchiness or unevenness. You may compare the general sequence. I am offering you the solution for control beforehand. Let me know which Hydrator-3.3 sequences you think are unnecessary?

chet
10-01-2014, 12:07 PM
Sofa looks much better, IS Back could use more color. we have only used Aniline 21 so far and will be running out soon. Should we switch to Aniline 76 and mix with aniline 76 clear. Also if we switch to Aniline 76 I will need to use adhesion on those areas before applying dye?.

3885
Is Back, lower protected area is darker, but is slightly in shadow

3887
IS back different camera angle to get rid of shadow.

3886
IS Right arm looks really good.

3888
IS Le4ft arm looks really good too.

Roger Koh
10-01-2014, 12:41 PM
The first 2 pictures looks like scratches are still showing, is this already done with Aniline-21?

When switching to Aniline-76, do not use any Hydrator-3.3 for correction, just continue to spray for even coverage. Note that the texture will not be as refine as using Aniline-21.


>>> Also if we switch to Aniline 76 I will need to use adhesion on those areas before applying dye?.

Not necessary, unless you are doing a surface repair or to even out absorption, used a rubbing action to reduce surface build-up for finesse.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
[email protected]
www.LeatherDoctor.com

chet
11-18-2014, 09:22 AM
Finished, I think it looks fantastic and feels great too. We applied 2-3 light coats of Aniline-76 reduced with25% Clear. It helped hide some of the inconsistancies without altering the feel.

4123
finished picture

There is slight horizontal line middle of the I.S. back and also on the O.S. back, I believe it is the natural markings of the middle of the back (Spine) of the actual cow back because theese are such large pices of hide without seams. Let me know if this is the correct explanation?

Roger Koh
11-18-2014, 11:41 AM
It is made from a large hide.

So we see the contour of the animal as well.

Authentically natural and if after refinishing still retain its original look will retain its original value as well.

Of course with build-in inflation would definitely cost more by today's money value.