Aniline (Sauvage) - Is there a simple way to restore this Leather?

[Questions!]

Here are the pictures. . .

#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/2013-01-08083714.jpg

#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/IMG_33901.jpg

#3
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/2013-01-09211831.jpg

#4
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/2013-01-09211818.jpg

#5
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/2013-01-09211850.jpg

#6
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/IMG_3396.jpg

[Roger Koh]

The first step is to identify the leather types.

From the above pictures #1 & #2, it clearly shows that they are “Aniline” with a “natural” look.

However, there are varieties among the Aniline types, example Waxy-Matte Aniline, Gloss Aniline, Wax Pull-up Aniline are commonly used as upholstery leather. Since it has a gloss luster, it could be either the Gloss or the Wax Pull-up.

A simple way to identify is to look at the unused areas as shown in picture #3 & #4. A pull-up leather when pull or stretch will lighten up in color. Applying heat or warm hand rubbing will revert.

#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/IMG_3397.jpg

When the leather type is positively identified, we will use the relevant problem-solving guide to help us identify the leather problem and the recommended procedure to restore it.

#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Doctor%20products/Leather%20Problem%20Solving%20Guide/Scan0108-1.jpg


An Inspection is conducted to identify where the problem areas are:

#3
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0006.jpg

#4
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0025.jpg

#5
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0026.jpg

#6
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0029.jpg

#7
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0032.jpg

#8
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0035.jpg

#9
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0040.jpg


#10
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0061.jpg

#11
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0066.jpg

#12
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0066.jpg

#13
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0071.jpg


#14http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0072.jpg

[Roger Koh]

#3
This picture shows problem of color loss through fading.
Keep in mind that the unused areas is where the color intensity should return to.
It will also depend on other unnatural stains that may not be completely removed and will see through.
The natural scratch marks are visible and it should not border us, as it is a gift from nature.
When comes to dye application, the technique is to use airbrush to balance up the color intensity and leave the darker color to the final spray over.
The dark round spots may need to be camouflage if they are not removed entirely.
Therefore, decision for the color has to take into consideration of the unnatural darks stains as well.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0006.jpg


#4
This picture show a lighter finish damaged marks.
This finish damage areas has to be feather out to look natural.
It could be done when dry with Stripper-2.3.
Or other mechanical means during the rinsing with help of Eraser-4 or very light 2000grit wet sanding.
The dark mark are natural and should be left as it is.
Other light marks are surface topcoat damages, This will be settle during the dry preparation step before dye application.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0025.jpg


#5
These darks spots are unknown.
A test should be done in this sequence.
Use d’Protein-10 on a cotton swab to see if the stain moves.
It must be follow up with an Acidifier-2.0 to reduce the color if it was originally alkaline based stain without the coagulating protein ingredient.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0026.jpg

#6
This is obvious a finish damaged done by a sticky tape.
Stripper-2.3 is recommended to feather out the damages prepare for correction with an airbrush to fill the color difference.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0029.jpg


#7
This picture shows light and dark scars.
The dark scars are to be left alone.
The light marks are normally corrected during the rinse step with 2000grit hand sanding with Rinse-3.0 spray.
If these marks remains then they can be tackled during the dry preparation using the same light sanding.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0032.jpg


#8
Some of these dark marks could be blood stain.
Use d’Protein-10 > d’Tarnish-1.3 > Rinse-3.0
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0035.jpg


#9
Usually white scuff marks indicates topcoat damages.
Using a 2000grit dry sanding that shows white powder is what the existing urethane topcoat is removed.
An even removal will help in a more even dyeing appearance.
The first round of dyeing is to spot dye to even out the difference, before an overall dyeing.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0040.jpg


#10
Spots as shown could also be possible from beverages.
d’Tannin-3.5 may be the best solution to remove all stains derived from vegetable or plants, that includes red wine and black coffee or tea.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0061.jpg


#11
The unused area has to reduce or remove to that it is closer to the used areas.
It is to reduce the contrast when comes to redyeing.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0066.jpg


#12
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0066.jpg


Refer to the Guide for stain removal.
#13http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Identification-F0072.jpg

[Questions!]

Hi Roger,

We have followed step A; applied the degreaser-2.2 - rinse-3.0 - d'Odor-4.5 - Hydrator-3.3.

We then covered the couch back up and left it for a day, and we now have the spots showing up, as shown in the pictures. We are wondering how to approach removing these spots and discolorations.

Thanks,
Jeremy

The major issues are:


#1 discoloration marks
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/AfterCleaning-29.jpg

#2 scratch marks
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/AfterCleaning-34.jpg

#3 dark spots
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/AfterCleaning-56.jpg

[Roger Koh]

#1 discoloration marks
Such discoloration mark with the loss of the finish will become more absorbent when comes to dyeing.
To reduce it prominence, it is recommended that:
1] To break up the sharp line, possibly use Stripper-2.3 with cotton swab and feather out.

2] To reduce absorbency prior to dyeing all such highly absorbent marks are to be seal with Adhesor-73 and leave dry for inspection. Thereafter “coating” aniline Dye-76 matching color is applied.

3] When all stains are removed if possible, we will move into fatliquor replenishing step. This fatliquoring will reduces the dryness that is also contributing to the lightening effect.

4] Note that every step is co-ordinate toward the final process of redyeing to give the best result.


#2 scratch marks
These scratch marks are natural.
Consider a darker intensity to camouflage these marks.
This color is a mix of Orange, Red-Brown and Dark Brown.
The standard for this three color mix in ratio is 1 : 1 : 1 = Antique Brown Dye-76
To increase the intensity to the darker side to cover such stains will be logically adding a percentage of Dark brown to the
Antique Brown Dye-76.

#3 dark spots
These darks spot is solved by using the above color suggestion.
If these are the darkest spot or marks that you can find then this area is recommended to be tested for color after the dry prep. Standby with Stripper-2.3 for unwanted color test clean-up, until you get the best color intensity for the entire set.
Prepare the customer or perhaps show them the cushion for approval before attempting the entire set.

Although I talk about dyeing, we are not there yet,


Follow the sequence below A] + B] + C] + D]

A] Cleaning, Degreasing & Wet Preparation:
Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 > d’Odor-4.5 > Hydrator-3.3.
All stains removal has to be finished at the hydrating step including stabilizing of existing
dye bleeding with Acidifier-2.0 if any. All deterioated topcoat that appears patchy has to be removed during the rinsing steps as well with help of Razor-60 or 1500/2000 wet sanding to prepare the surface for a more even application of Aniline Dye-76 (coating dyestuff). Soiling areas are to be erase using leather Eraser-4 to remove residual soiling particulates when the leather is crispy dry.

B] Dry Preparation:
Inspect and further dry prepare surface free of uneven or patchy topcoat to allow for even dye coating. Erase all after crispy dried soiling areas of wick-up soiling particulates. At this stage the leather surface should be free of all soiling contamination and deterioated existing topcoat removed evenly or feather out into hidden areas.

C] Leather & Wax Effect Rejuvenating:
Fatliquor-5.0 > Wax Effect-8.6 (dried surface residue to activate with heat gun).

D] Finishing:
Adhesor-73 > Aniline Dye-76 (coating by airbrushing) > Topcoat-79G > Protection-D+